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1973 19ft center console


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I recently purchased this boat for my son. All of the foam was soaked with water. We have removed all of it from the floor to the hull, even under the coffin box. My question is what foam weight was originally used in this Era of boats? 2lb or 4lb? It seems like the foam is structurally supporting the fuel tank and the deck. I will attach some pictures possibly this weekend. 

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2 lb foam.  And you are correct in it did help "support" the floor and hold the tank in place.  Foam expanded up against the bottom of the deck and did sort of bind to it and reduce potential flexing.  With the new fiberglass fabrics and core material, this is not as important.  Looking forward to seeing the pictures.

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Somebody has been very busy!  You are just about starting with a clean sheet of paper on this project.  Got some questions:

1.  Was the fuel tank in good condition or will it be replaced?

2.  Are you going to keep the in-floor fish box or glass it over?

3.  What is the condition of the transom and stringers?  If those stringers are anything like what I found in my 1988 2160, the wood core can be rotten out and the fiberglass structure sound enough to still do its job.  As long as the surrounding glass and tabbing to hull bottom is sound, it should be fine.

4.  Are you planning on glassing the floor panels back in place or lay an entire new floor over the existing one?  The reason I ask is the coring on that access on the port side looks questionable where the cloth underneath has pulled away from the plywood.

5.  Did you cut out the bottom of the fuel coffin to get to the foam?

50 year old foam...the concept was the closed cells would not absorb water when new, but like anything else, over time it is going to degrade and end up acting like a sponge.  New foam will hold up for a good amount of time, so I don't think you are concerned what it will be like in another 50 years.

Make sure there are holes in the frames and stringers at the lowest points so water can drain to the bilge.  Be sure any cuts or holes in the frames and stringers get sealed to prevent water intrusion.  On the outer side of the stringers where they meet the hull, try to come up with a way to create an open channel the length of the stringer so any water that migrates down to that point will have a channel to flow out of and not get trapped

 

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1. I believe the fuel tank is still in good condition. So I will reuse it. Is there something that can coat the tank to increase its longevity?

2. I had question on that also. There is a hole to the bottom of the boat there. Is that factory or did someone drill that hole? I was planning on keeping that and using that as the bilge.

3. I believe the transom and stringers are in good shape also.

4. I plan on glossing the panels back in. I'm going to sand the whole floor and paint it. I will add a nonskid to the paint.

5. I did cut the whole fuel coffin out and plan on reglassing it back in.

I am trying to figure out how to make channels for water flow. I really don't have a plan for that yet.

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1.  Coal tar epoxy is the coating of choice.  Be sure to clean and prep surface prior to coating.  Was your tank foamed in or held by clips/straps?  Not foaming in place is the better way since it does allow air to circulate around the tank and not have wet foam in constant contact with the tank.  Was there a drain in the bottom of the coffin to allow water to drain to the bilge.  If no, I would recommend installing one.

2.  Hole is factory installed.  Should be a brass thru hull as it is a drain.  I use mine for a fish box / cooler as the foam surrounding it will keep ice a real long time.  At the end of the day pull the plug to drain.  If you are going to use it as a storage area, make sure water can drain away from the opening.

3.  Great.  Was not too concerned about stringers.  Did you notice any brown stains coming from transom u bolts or thru hull drains?  This is an indication of a saturated transom and the water seeps out of any place it can.  Take a plastic or hard rubber mallet and tap in multiple locations on the transom to see if all areas have the same ringing sound....not a dull thump.  You will recognize it after checking some areas on the transom.

4.  Look into maybe removing the floor where it sits on the stringer.  Just thinking it will reduce the number of joints you will be glassing.  SikaFlex can be used as a bonding adhesive can be used on top of the stringer to tie to the bottom of the floor panel.

5.  Ok

Rain gutters.  One way is to buy some pre-made fiberglass gutters, then install.  Other option is to make a mold then glass your own gutters.  This is not really that hard.  Now, the fun is the installation.  The depth of the drain will replace the floor coring.  If the underlying coring structure is not replaced, that part of the floor is going to be extremely weak and will flex/crack.  To overcome this, a piece of coring will need to be bonded to the bottom of the existing floor with an adhesive, then glass the gutter in on top of that.  

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