Jump to content
Robalo Boating Forum

1975 R200 Restoration

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone. Stumbled upon this boat and began early steps for a rebuild. We're told is a 1975 R200 and the transom number is SLK 952850575-75. This boat has been out of the water for about 5 years but last time it was running she ran great per owner. It was sitting in a backyard in lower NJ with a soft cover on top. Almost everything on the boat is original. We have the T-Top as well. It was sitting on its trailer for the 5 years which is slightly undersized for the boat and paired with rows of rubber rollers. Only damage we can see thus far is cosmetic from sitting on the rollers. 


Now for this build we're primarily focusing on the transom. There was a metal plate installed about 7 years ago to hold a Johnson 1985 185hp engine. Owner said it was temporary and since they were using this boat they never fixed it. There is obvious sagging on the transom as well as what appears to be rotting wood. Please see pictures attached. We're right now looking to do liquid pour fill transom but will reassess after further deconstruction. Would adding a metal plate like they previously did enforce any strength? 


Looking down the line after partially removing the rubrail is seems there is some separation been the gunwale and hull. We werent sure what to think of it as there is connection further in than the outside. Would someone be able to chime in and let us know what kind of damage we're looking at here. See pictures attached. I will get back to you once we get the entire rubrail off. We are assuming damage goes around the perimeter. 


We have yet to take the console off and inspect the coffin. We are planning on a full fuel upgrade and might restore the coffin cover piece. I have taken pictures of the edges to see if that would have any indication of what lies below. Screws all come undone easily. There is one little crack I included in the picture. See attached pictures.


We will be updating this periodically as we go. Feel free to comment, make suggestions, or just follow along the rebuild. 















Edited by aquaholic23
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Transom...are you planning on removing the outer skin to clean out all the wood core?  Remember to leave 4-6 inches around the  away from the side and bottom of hull to allow for a flat surface to re-glass and fair to.  Surface prep to the inner skin is essential for a good bond between the poured material and existing glasswork.  Carbon-core has an excellent product and good information on what needs to happen.

If the transom is done correctly, there is no need for the metal plate as this screams "BAD TRANSOM" to all other boaters.  If you want to cut the plate so it covers just under the engine bracket and the area inside the transom where the engine bolts are so as to spread the compression load of the bolts, that is fine.

While messing with the transom, you may want to think about creating a real bilge in the boat to at least allow installing a bilge pump and working on that drain from the coffin box.

Regarding the hull separation, it looks like there was some minor bumps on the hull cap just above the rub rail.  Were there many of the screws that hold the cap to the hull at the joint torn loose?  If not, I would just re-seal with a good marine sealant (not 3M 5200 or 4200 - look at the SikaFlex products or Boatlife sealant).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My head can't decide which is which but when you say leave 4-6 inches does that only apply if we hollow the core out? We were going to try and leave the outer skin and remove core. So leave 4-6 inches inside the core closest to the walls? We want to then glass over the entire transom after filling with carbon core to ensure strength rather than adding a metal plate. We liked the idea of the plate just because it's such an old hull but we will have to see. 

So that was another area we weren't sure about. In other posts we saw some modifications to allow water that drains from coffin to stern. Is there an opening on the bottom of the hull such allows water to drain or is it only want goes under the foam? We definitely want a better bilge system on the transom. Question. The bilge currently present, that's only removing water getting caught in the transom pocket? That drain hole on the way bottom of the boat would drain out of the coffin? Sounds like it would be best to try and have bilge for both?

Rubrail. Only the screws on stern side had some screws torn through. Port and starboard sides screws were still intact to the hull. Thanks for the advice on sealing product. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hull/Cap joint overall looks good and I would not mess with it.  Seal it up to prevent further water intrusion.  Biggest concern until that is done is the possibility of water getting trapped in the foam in that area, then severe cold causing freezing which could then resulting in bulging in the area.

If you were cutting the fiberglass off the back of the transom to access the rotten core material, mark a line 4-6 inches around the back of the transom where it meets the sides and bottom.  Most poured transoms start with the owner cutting off that outer skin to remove all wood core.  Once the wood is removed and the inner surface prepped, the original skin is fiberglassed back in place prior to the pour.  By leaving that "flange", you can make up the joint using a proper bevel of the existing fiberglass where it meets up with the skin that was cut out and not be fighting glassing and fairing where the radius is.

Do the prep work and transom pour per manufacturer's instructions and there is no need for the plate.  No telling how many years that boat ran without a plate before the transom core turned to mush.  The bad core was the only reason for the plate in the first place.

Regarding the drain for the coffin box, by using a metal rod or piece of re-bar to wallow out the foam along the bottom of the hull up to the back of the coffin box will open a drain channel.  This is the only way to do it, otherwise the water just seeps into the foam and has no way out.  This covers the topic in more detail:


As for that drainage system in the motor well...leave it as it is so it drains overboard by gravity instead of relying on a pump in the bilge.  All boats are set up to drain the motor well this way.  The bilge is to only deal with water from any other sources.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Create New...