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    1996 Robalo 2120

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Estettner's Achievements


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  1. @mosailn Great advice! I'll definitely be doing the wire chase for future upgrades. And glad I could inspire you to put the t-top on, it will be a huge improvement. Weather has sucked up in NY, lots of rain and below 40 degree temps so my glass work is on hold until it warms up. Would hate to go through all of this effort and then have the glass not cure properly. I will update as I go along in the next few weeks
  2. @2-N-TOW Motor came with the boat, had good compression in all cylinders when I looked at it. Sitting for 5 years I knew the fuel system would be compromised so I pre-emptively went ahead and serviced it from the inline filter through the injectors. Also with these F225 motors they are an interference motor meaning if the timing belt fails it would cause catastrophic failure so I put a new belt and tensioner on to avoid that potential issue. Motor ran strong all summer so I am happy with that. Foam in the bow was wet on the top 1/2" and wet down at the stringers about 1-1/2", but I was surprised overall it was in acceptable shape. I'm afraid water is pooled under the coffin box, I may have to cut open under the tank and do some further digging. Batteries are currently in the transom boxes and I do plan to move them under the console when I re-wire the boat. Thinking I will ditch the house battery as I don't have a complicated electronics system. I plan to cut out the transom boxes entirely to free up the stern for fishing, sort of like the contender open center consoles. I also plan to raise the transom 6" to get the motor to sit up higher, I have enough leg on the motor to go up. It'll come down to how much I can get done before May
  3. LOL male boats... that's great. To my knowledge the tank is still good which is shocking. Used it all summer with no glaring issues but I have shop space available this winter so I'm going to go ahead and replace it. Thinking of going with a plastic Moeller tank.. aluminum tanks are double the price right now and have a 2-3 month lead time from our local shops. Any opinions?
  4. Last spring I came across a 1996 Robalo 2120 that was destined to the junk yard by a local marina owner. I asked if I could have the boat for free and I was the proud new owner! It had been sitting for 5 years after being storm damaged and abandoned, so needless to say it has plenty of issues. But I enjoy a good project and the world was shut down due to covid so it gave me something to do. I am happy to get into extreme details if anyone has a particular interest in any step so feel free to comment and I'll elaborate. First pictures are how she sat. Bent bow rail, missing t-top canvas, hull damage on the bow and starboard side.. totally neglected and bastardized. https://imgur.com/a/v5B23DS Brought her to my local marina and got to work. I focused my efforts on the hull damage first at the bow and starboard sides. I took an angle grinder with a flap disk and ground out the damage until I got to good clean fiberglass under the gelcoat. Traced the pattern onto some plastic with exceedingly larger patches every 1/2" or so to build up the area. Layered 6oz glass with West Systems epoxy and fileted the area with thickened epoxy to get the bow shape back in order. After the patch cured I sanded it down with 80/120 grit for a smooth finish, color matched some gelcoat and painted it to look half-way decent. Wet sanded the gelcoat down with 200/400/600 grit for a smooth finish. Finished with a good wax job and she's water tight. Painted the bottom and removed all the weathered lettering/striping for a clean hull. https://imgur.com/a/rUCePE6 Not Robalo related but did some motor repairs. New high pressure & low pressure fuel pumps, timing belt & tensioner, injectors, VST service, exhaust leg replacement, cooling service, full tune up.. started on first crank! https://imgur.com/a/u1r55Tn Now that the motor was operational and the hull was water tight, time to hit the water! I had a t-top made up, gave the boat a deep cleaning and used the boat all summer! https://imgur.com/a/AjexKur Now we come to present day.. Boat is very bow heavy, the fuel tank is original and should be replaced, the wiring is a mess, the bow rail is bent, pulpit is chewed up, and the motor sits too low in the water for my liking. I plan to tackle these issues this winter. This past weekend I started at the bow. I removed the bow rail and pulpit with no plan to replace, bring the boat into the modern age looks wise. Then I took my circular saw, grinder, hammer and pry bars and removed the front lockers. Dug out about 150 pounds of foam underneath and plan to re-glass the deck flat. Maybe I'll add some bow seating down the line. But here is where I am at today! https://imgur.com/a/pUpx9zy Plans going forward are.. glass the new bow deck. Pull the t-top off and replace the fuel tank (maybe cut the deck under the tank and dig out that wet foam too..). Cut the transom off and raise it 6"-8". Rewire the entire boat. A bit ambitious but we'll see how it goes! I'll update the post as I go along
  5. @2-N-TOW Digging up an old thread... I am restoring a badly abused 1996 Robalo 2120 that I took on as a project. At some point I assume, the port side thru-hull drain fitting cracked or seal failed and whoever owned it filled the drain with 4200! It is just globbed in there completely filling the drain hole. This thru-hull drain is connected to my bow locker limber holes and now water was trapped in the drain lines. A NY winter came and those drain lines froze and cracked. Now every time it rains the water is filling the bow. My plan to fully remedy the issue is to essentially cut the lockers out completely, exposing the entire bow. Digging out all of the (assumed) soaked foam and replace with new. My question is... do you think it would be best to abandon the port side thru-hull fitting and drain the lockers directly to the bilge? I can have it dump into the fuel coffin and drain back that way. Or leave it as is?
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