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Everything posted by 2-N-TOW

  1. 2-N-TOW


    Hi Sledge. What year is your boat? We only have information thru 1993 and the 2660 was rated at 450 hp then.
  2. Nice! We made a quick family trip down without the boat to our place at the 7 MM this weekend. Figures the cobia bite was on fire at Oregon Inlet and the water was flat slick calm. At least we did get to watch the last leg of the Worrell 1000 launch off the beach this morning, if that is any consolation for being boatless 😕
  3. Hi Joker54a and welcome to the forum. See if this link will help on the fish box pump.
  4. About time! Beautiful...boat looks good, too! 😄
  5. Good to hear you got it mounted and is real solid! Curious as to the prep and paint you will be using on the bracket as I need to re-do mine in the near future.
  6. Sorry to hear about that. Can you post some pictures of the boat, motor, and trailer so we can get a better idea of what may be needed for someone to put it back together as that is going to play into the overall price, too.
  7. Looks good! All that pretty maintenance keeping ya acitve!
  8. I would go with either BoatLife sealant or 3M 4000 sealant. Depending on how wide the gap is between the lid and deck, you may want to stuff a piece of foam backer rod down into the bottom of the joint so the sealant will be around 3/8 to 1/2" thick. Also think about running a piece of heavy mono line (80# or heavier) at the bottom of the joint so the sealant will be applied over top of it. This way, if you ever have to remove the lid again, grab the mono and pull it up, cutting the sealant and making removal a lot easier and faster.
  9. In the picture of the bilge looking towards the livewell, I see where the transducer cable comes up through the deck liner. It looks like there may be a gap between the transom and the deck liner behind it since your control cables exit the liner just above the transducer cable. I am guessing the other side is the same way. I would first remove the black plastic grommet where one of the control cables goes into the liner and shine a light to confirm it is an open space that has a way to get to the bilge. You may need to pick up a cheap inspection camera that has wireless to the phone (I have the Depstech wireless camera). https://www.amazon.com/DEPSTECH-Waterproof-Inspection-Megapixels-Smartphone/dp/B01MYTHWK4/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2CI3B1UISKOIU&keywords=inspection%2Bcamera&qid=1651372404&sprefix=inspectio%2Caps%2C236&sr=8-4&th=1 If this is doable....it would be my first suggestion to allow a clean install of the wires. Second suggestion would still require verifying there is a space between the liner and transom. Then cut a 4" or 6" hole to install a deck plate on the back so you can access the space and route the wires. Based on your tape marks, do you plan on re-locating the transducer as it appears it will be very close to the trim tab.
  10. Hi Tfam04 and welcome to the site! I am not familiar with the access on the transom/bilge area of the boat. Are these electric or hydraulic tabs? Any chance you can post some pictures of the bilge looking towards the side of the hull and also the jumpseat area? Maybe then I can come up with some suggestions..
  11. Sounds like you got a good match! If you could squeeze another 400 rpms out of it, bet it will see 50 mph! Cruise numbers are real close to my 2160. Have fun with it this summer!
  12. JoeVee123 - Welcome to the forum! As much as it pains me, try our Facebook site Robalo Boats USA as we have more members there with newer model boats. This site was originally started for pre-2000 boats, but we are gradually getting more members with current model boats.
  13. Don't have one, but maybe this will help in determining what length to go with. Do you plan on using it mainly inshore in calm water or possibly in the ocean trying to hold position over a good spot in swells and rough water? If the later, I would consider the extra 12 inches a plus to keep the motor from popping out of the water in swells. Also try asking this question on our Facebook page (Robalo Boats USA).
  14. Thanks ctfission, I learned something new! I would never have expected the anchor locker drain to run the full length of the boat...figured they would have a thru hull up front or drain to the bilge.
  15. Mosailn - On my 2160 I believe it was a 1/2" composite core for the regular floor. Fuel tank will probably have a similar layup I am not a big fan of just a screw holding the t-top flange as they will work loose eventually. If this is going into the coffin lid, check the clearance between the lid and the tank by measuring at the inspection port over the fuel sender. There should be 1-2" clearance. Best solution is to mount a 1/4" (or 1/2") aluminum plate to the backside of the coffin lid with fast set 4200 adhesive, then drill and tap the backer plate to accept stainless screws. Be sure to overdrill the hole in the coffin lid so you can either backfill with epoxy or your favorite sealant to prevent water intrusion into the core. Another option is the toggle bolts / wall anchors used for installing shower grab rails.
  16. I am not sure what type of thru hull that is. I suppose it was needed after installing the aluminum plate on the transom? Will a standard plug fit in the thru hull fitting? The thru hull coming out of the bottom in the picture, is that a drain and does it also go to the bilge? If there is a check valve behind the transom garboard drain, sounds like it is stuck...I would see if it would be ok to take a piece of rebar and drive the valve off the tube and just rely on the transom drain plug to seal it off.
  17. Hi Diogee and welcome to the forum! Here is a link to some good general information: Let me know if you have any other questions.
  18. Hi 123ASDF and welcome to the forum. The factory will not be able to provide any information on a 44 year old boat regarding the drain. I hope forum member Mr. Robalo sees this post and replies as he worked there back in the late '80s I think. Here is my 2 sense on the drain. I have a 1988 2160 and the coffin box has a drain that I am assuming is similar to yours. I have not opened my box to inspect it, but know I never have water surrounding the tank and rainwater drains to the bilge from it. I would re-open that drain and inspect behind it to see if there is a path through the foam to allow drainage. Also, look in your bilge and running along the centerline going forward at the front bulkhead of the bilge a half round pipe running forward. This is where the water drains from my boat and may be similar to what you have.
  19. I have no idea what that could be! Pretty sure it is not a factory installed option. Based on location, I would be wondering if it is even angled enough to the transom to drain. Is it visible under the deck when you look through the inspection port? I would try blowing compressed air into it to see where it may come out or run a usb inspection camera down it.
  20. Mick - Honestly, these motors run the most efficient when properly propped to hit as close as possible to the manufacturer's listed max rpms. Trying to squeeze a little better fuel burn number by going to a higher pitch prop may not work as one would expect as it will place a little higher load on the engine and actually require a little more fuel to spin the bigger prop at the same rpm as the lesser pitch prop. Now, having said that, there are lots of different blade profiles for 17" pitch props. Contact Ken at propgods.com. He will want to know what your max rpm and speed are with the current prop and can recommend some alternatives. Lots of people (including me) have dealt with Ken and he is great to work with.
  21. Not sure if that is going to be salvageable. You might be able to clear it up some with a headlight restoration kit that has the real fine sandpaper and polishing pads.
  22. Standard Horizon makes a flush mount kit for all of their fixed mount vhf radios. Also, most radios are built on similar chassis and you may be able to re-use the existing flush mount system as long as the section behind the faceplate is the same as the old radio. I tried to locate the dimensions of your radio (GX2341S) but the factory manual does not have that information.
  23. As long as the 2 drains in the wet well are not letting water into the well, I would recommend not plugging them. They assist in draining any water you may accidentally take over the bow. If those wet well drains were plugged, water could only exit splashing over the top of the transom cutout. Another thing is any water that has accumulated in the wet well can drain when the boat is moving....no need to carry that excess water weight if the drains are plugged. Now for my questions. Can you post a picture of the mystery drain where it enters the wet well? Have you tried blowing compressed air into it to see if it may be connected to the drain at the cooler? Is the coring where the hole was drilled under the cooler sealed so water did not seep into the foam core?
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