Jump to content
Robalo Boating Forum

2-N-TOW

Members
  • Content Count

    5,901
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

7 Followers

About 2-N-TOW

  • Rank
    Root Admin
  • Birthday 08/31/1961

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Suffolk, VA
  • Interests
    Boats, fishing, doing stuff with my 2 boys and sharing life's adventures with my wife!

Previous Fields

  • Boat Type
    R2160

Recent Profile Visitors

4,020 profile views
  1. Are you able to see where the cables go under the deck? Do they appear to go into the coffin box were the fuel tank sits? If nobody else knows the length, you may need to remove the coffin lid to see where it runs and do a rough measurement of the run from the console, under floor to the battery box where the cables exit into the motor well.
  2. Is it not considered strong enough? I would think a person on a wakeboard doing tricks would exert more pull on the bar than an inflatable.
  3. I honestly don't think it matters on the inside as the corrosion is always on the outside going into the tank. Best thing to do for any new aluminum tank is to coat it with coal tar epoxy so moisture cannot be in contact with bare aluminum as that is what causes the corrosion.
  4. I did not realize this has been going on for 2 years, either. Been fun posting on here as it has progressed. So is Joey going to school? I would think if he can master the roll technique and get as good results as spraying, this would open up a whole new area for his business. That transom is a beast...the way it is built now and with everything tied together, it is like a massive box beam. Let us know how ScupperGate works out as it is a challenging thing to try to safely resolve.
  5. There is no coring there, so not understanding why the bottom looks compressed. I would at least remove the nuts and backing plate and see what is going on.
  6. Give it a try! At that dimension, it should hold up fine.
  7. You got a gold mine there! That Rebel 15" pitch will act like other manufacturer/model 17" pitch props due to the increased surface area the Rebel blade is built with. This prop is suited for heavy boats like ours. Depends on how the prior owner propped for just 2 people and 50 gallons of fuel or 4 guys and a full load of fuel (100 gallons), then the 15 would probably be the better choice. I look forward to hearing from you on how that one works. If you run into problems with the on-board computer (ECM), I think they can be sent out to be re-built instead of having to locate a new
  8. You are beginning to scare me when we are both starting to think the same way
  9. Thanks for the link...very good information in his reasoning. Turned out to be a simple fix for a bunch of nuisance items. If that set-up is still maxing out at 5500 rpms, I think there is a little more speed in that boat. Prop technology has come a long way since 2005 and there are some better options than the 4 blade Renegade. First check where the cavitation plate sits in relation to the transom when motor is trimmed nuetral. Guessing that bracket has the motor about 12 inches behind the transom, the cavitation plate should be 2 to 2 1/2 inches above the bottom of the hull. (If mo
  10. Clean looking boat! What hp is the engine? 2140 is a fishing machine and was my first preference when I was looking. Very few 2140 owners want to sell as these boats. Do you know why he had an engine bracket? Was it to get the set back off the transom or make engine height adjustments easier? Go on Ebay and purchase the diagnostic software and interface cable for the motor. It should be $60-70. This will give you access to the on-board computer so you can see all fault codes, engine run history, ability to reset trouble lights, and do minor diagnostic work such as troubleshooting t
  11. Does the transom notch go all the way across the transom or is it just wide enough for the single engine? It it goes all the way across, then the small engine should be able to be mounted next to the primary engine. Just be sure to leave enough room so when the primary engine is turned either port or starboard it does not hit the other motor.
  12. Sorry for not thinking about those scuppers until this late in the game. Let me toss another idea out there about the scuppers... Instead of going straight through the transom just above the deck line, run the rectangular scuppers through the deck at the back of the boat, fabricate some glass tubing to bond to the backside of the deck and run out the transom at or below the bracket. Get some stainless grates to go over top of the scuppers and now you have a clean looking transom. OR instead of running the drain out under the bracket, what about out thru the sides of the hull.
  13. Looking at that transom from inside...it is WIDE OPEN! Lots of room to hang out and knowing it sits high in the water when you and three of your female friends are hanging on the bracket knocking back some cold ones! Just a few things I happened to think about: Non-skid on the bracket platform? Are any gutter drains needed the in-floor access? What type of scuppers are you planning for? Remember to go as big as possible just in case you take a wave over the bow and need to get it out as fast as possible. For a boat your size, I think the rectangular scuppers would look f
  14. Damn that thing floats high in the water! How did you manage to loose so much weight in the back of the boat? And I am looking forward to seeing that completed hardtop set-up.
×
×
  • Create New...