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As You can tell I am on a roll! Rear hatch cover 2440 |
Oct 20 2009, 05:28 PM
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#1
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Swabie ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 23 Joined: 11-October 09 From: NJ Member No.: 278 Boat Type:2440 |
I have owned this boat for two weeks now. I didn't pull the plug out when I got it. Well it rained here for three days. Cabin didn;t have a drop in it. Enclosure was sealed up nicely! However, the bilge was FULL! I mean ALOT of water. I went over the whole boat. The only thing that looks like water would get by is the rear hatch next to the transom (the large hatch). What's everyone doing? Sealing it up completely? I guess after I am done with everything I could do that. Then use the round hatches to check the thr hulls or in an emergency. I like having that big access...maybe put a large access panel on it and seal the original? Ideas? Suggestions? Please?
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Oct 20 2009, 05:48 PM
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#2
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![]() Administrator ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Root Admin Posts: 1,396 Joined: 27-May 09 From: Central Florida Member No.: 1 Boat Type:2007 R240 |
Travis, on my R240 I put some weather stripping around the underside of the hatch and that seam to do the trick. It's weather stripping I got from Home Depot.
Will something like that work for you? ![]() Don't Forget To Get Your ROBALOBOATING.COM Shirts Today!!!
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Oct 20 2009, 07:59 PM
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#3
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First Mate ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Captains Posts: 131 Joined: 25-June 09 From: Anna Maria Island Member No.: 23 Boat Type:1996 2440 w/Twin 225's |
Travis,
I do caulk the large hatch shut on my 2440. See my post below this one in Walkaround about "Trim Tabs". I cover is some detail along with a photo of mine. You can get to the thru hull valves with the round hatches as you note. The only time you need in the main hatch is to replace pumps. I keep the plug pulled while on the boat lift. If it your boat filled up that much then maybe your bilge pump or automatic float switch is having issues. The other place to check for water coming in is from the scuppers. Two on each side under the fish well lids. I was concerned about mine a while back when I read somewhere about the hoses that take the water though the transom failing. I stuck a hose in the hole in fish well and held my hand over the transom outlet to pressurize the hose to check for leaks. Found none. Some people have removed the macerator pumps and let the fishwell to drain into the bilge. This could be the case and water going into the fish well would help to fill the bilge area. I added a "D" shaped weather strip around the lip of my fish wells and I think this really helps keep water out of them. Photo below.
PVC_Pipe_003.jpg ( 53.85K )
Number of downloads: 30I live in Florida where we can have 8 inches of rain in a morning. When it flows off the bow area at that rate I think it comes in the forward end of the fishwell when it falls down the steps and then may back up at the scuppers also as it is trying to drain out. I started out with the weather strip only and the back end of the fishwell and ended up with it all the way around to stop the water going in there. Not sure where you are or what year your 2440 is but keep asking questions. I have had mine since it was new in 1996 and been though a lot of repairs over the years. Hope this helps. ![]() Steve
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Oct 20 2009, 08:18 PM
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#4
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Swabie ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 23 Joined: 11-October 09 From: NJ Member No.: 278 Boat Type:2440 |
Thanks guys for the replies. It's a 1993. The batteries are out of the boat because when I bought it the guy had these real nice battery boxes installed but...when I got it home they had little baby car batteries in them. O well...then it rained for days I never had the chance to pull the plug...although I bought it and it was covered so I guess the previous owner didn't worry about the plug staying in. I'm going to seal up the hatch. Only because I don't thing I can get it tight enough with weather stripping around it. Funny you mention the scuppers. The port side plumbing was cut and a T was installed. Probably not that big of a deal. But the little rubber flap and clamp that covered the Non-plumbed scupper was. Slid right off in my hand...OUCH!...Boats in great shape, but the owner rigged a few things. I'm going to take the winter and go over everything. So far it's not that bad. All little stuff. We'll see. Thanks again! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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Oct 21 2009, 08:33 AM
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#5
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First Mate ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Captains Posts: 131 Joined: 25-June 09 From: Anna Maria Island Member No.: 23 Boat Type:1996 2440 w/Twin 225's |
Travis,
A couple of more things that may help. If the part that came off in your hand looks like this
224514.bmp ( 117.24K )
Number of downloads: 30It is a West Marine Part number 224514 and Perko number 0365DP If the scupper line is the one that has been cut then that should be fixed as I am sure sea water will back flow into your bilge in rough seas, not to mention filling the bilge like has happened recently. I have cut my line from the fishwell to the macerator pump and installed at tee in the line and more recently a valve. This line is of the same material as the scupper line. Photo below.
Fish_well_drain_November_2008_012.jpg ( 78.86K )
Number of downloads: 25This permits water slopping into the fishwells to drain out into the bilge and be pumped out when under way. When on the lift and the plug is pulled water drains out the garboard drain. I can close the valve if I want to use it for fish. In the warm climate in Florida I use the fishwells for fender and other storage and a big cooler for fish. ![]() Steve
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Oct 22 2009, 11:05 AM
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#6
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Swabie ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 23 Joined: 11-October 09 From: NJ Member No.: 278 Boat Type:2440 |
The rubber cover is different. It looks like something you get from a plumbing supply house. I'll post a pic of what it looks like. I'm going to remove the T and use a straight coupler on both lines to put it back together correctly. However, thanks for the part numbers on the scuppers...I need four new ones!
The valve you installed for the drains on the fish boxes...makes me wonder. If the macerator fails to drain the boxes..how do you get them empty? I'm guessing pulling the line off draining in into the bilge. Thanks again for your replies. |
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Oct 22 2009, 12:02 PM
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#7
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First Mate ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Captains Posts: 131 Joined: 25-June 09 From: Anna Maria Island Member No.: 23 Boat Type:1996 2440 w/Twin 225's |
The macerator will drain the boxes but not the lines as the line rises to the exit point on the STBD side transom. In cold/ freezing climate I think you would need to drain it and so I added the valve.
FYI, don't ever run the macerator pump dry or it will be gone. I have learned that the hard way. I fill up a fish box and let it pump out then shut down. Someone on the board mentioned installing a momentary switch on the macerator so you could not leave it on by accident. I did install a momentary switch at the helm for my aft bilge pump (same switch as horn --- have to hold it on) for I would constantly leave the pump running when underway. The issue I have now is that I purchased the matching waterproof momentary switch for the helm some time back and now I can't remember where I got it! Imagine that (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) I have started a loose leaf notebook and keep all the receipts for my parts filed in there under various tabs. Now when I need something, if I have done it before, I have the part number and where I got it. I make a copy of most cash register slips as they fade away in a year or so and you can't read them. ![]() Steve
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Oct 23 2009, 07:46 AM
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#8
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Swabie ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 23 Joined: 11-October 09 From: NJ Member No.: 278 Boat Type:2440 |
I did start the same notebook. It also helps when two years from now something goes wrong. You can look at it and say "oh that's what I did." I like to diagram pumps, plumbing, and electrical componets that I can understand!
Good tip on the macerator. I plan on dumping some antifreeze in the tuna boxes then running the macerator to pump it through. Thanks again! |
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Jul 28 2010, 08:05 AM
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#9
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Swabie ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 17 Joined: 2-November 09 Member No.: 298 Boat Type:Robalo 2440 |
I have owned this boat for two weeks now. I didn't pull the plug out when I got it. Well it rained here for three days. Cabin didn;t have a drop in it. Enclosure was sealed up nicely! However, the bilge was FULL! I mean ALOT of water. I went over the whole boat. The only thing that looks like water would get by is the rear hatch next to the transom (the large hatch). What's everyone doing? Sealing it up completely? I guess after I am done with everything I could do that. Then use the round hatches to check the thr hulls or in an emergency. I like having that big access...maybe put a large access panel on it and seal the original? Ideas? Suggestions? Please? I see that your post is a year or so old but, what did you ever end up doing to seal the rear hatch? Last weekend we were 20+ miles offshore and with every wave sloshing over the transom water was seeping into the bilge. The bilge pump was continuing to run on and off all day. I have the weather stripping but, it does not seem like it is enough to seal it. Is caulk the only option here? |
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Jul 28 2010, 10:51 AM
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#10
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Deck Hand ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 31 Joined: 25-June 09 From: Woodbridge, VA Member No.: 24 Boat Type:Robalo 2140 Walkaround |
I'm not sure your 2440 has a deck configuration like my 1995 2140 but I sealed the entire deck above the fuel tank with silicone caulking about 3 years ago. I noticed years ago that Pursuits and Gradys all had the seam around the fuel tank sealed with caulking. During a heavy thunderstorm my bilge pump was going off constantly because the rainwater was getting in the bilge from the uncaulked seam.
I used refridgerator door weather stripping to seal my fish box years ago. It lasts far longer than the cheap foam weather stripping. Hope this helps! Rick |
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Jul 28 2010, 11:51 AM
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#11
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Swabie ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 21 Joined: 25-June 09 From: Jupiter Member No.: 39 Boat Type:93 2440 WA |
I see that your post is a year or so old but, what did you ever end up doing to seal the rear hatch? Last weekend we were 20+ miles offshore and with every wave sloshing over the transom water was seeping into the bilge. The bilge pump was continuing to run on and off all day. I have the weather stripping but, it does not seem like it is enough to seal it. Is caulk the only option here? I had the exact same issue. I found the heaviest boat weather stripping I could find and put that in. I put it on to seal the highest point and the screws had to pass through it.I then went up one or two screw diameters and 1/2-3/4" screw lengths. I coated the tips of the screws with a non permanent sealant. Problem Solved!!! You may have to experiment with the screw size, so compare a few different ones first. This post has been edited by Jay: Jul 28 2010, 11:54 AM |
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Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: 5th September 2010 - 06:42 PM |

