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R1800 - Repower Options?


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#1 John3325

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Posted 09 October 2013 - 07:57 AM

Hey guys, 

 

I have an opportunity to buy a 1990 115 HP Johnson 25" Shaft w/ a jackplate and hydraulic steering for short money. 

 

Is anyone by any chance running a similar setup on there R1800? I am weary about the jackplate but I will be reinforcing the transom and beefing it up with plates for added strength. I like the idea of the hydraulic steering and the 25" shaft will get the motor up farther out of the water. This also opens the opportunity to make a splash well/guard in front of the motor flush on the transom to help prevent water coming back into the boat in a following seas or in reverse. 

 

How do these hulls perform with a 115HP V-4? Anyone run the setup? The deal on the motor is VERY good with the steering setup and everything but do not want to shoot myself in the foot if the boat is going to be an absolute dog. I am currently running the 130 Hp Evinrude the boat came with when I bought it that has low compression in a cylinder right now. Boat flies and I did not think 15 HP would be that much of a difference but the 130 HP is a bigger block. 

 

What you all think? 



#2 rotorwrench

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Posted 09 October 2013 - 07:58 PM

Not enough hp and would struggle to get on plane, you'd regret it. These boats are heavy and need all the motor it's rated for. With more hp, it'll actually be more efficient, not working as hard.  Keep an eye out for a 150.


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#3 mrrobalo

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Posted 09 October 2013 - 09:01 PM

Under horsepower is the biggest complaint a ROBALO owner has and most times it was the dealer working the deal and put a motor they had in stock . As far as beefing up the transom just make sure if you the jack plate there isn't any movement with the motor all the way up. You can put in a splash guards but if you do think about making one that will flip down if the water comes in over the bow. ( my gallery have a set I built for mine ) keep us posted as I am usually cruising our cyber docks .

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#4 John3325

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Posted 10 October 2013 - 08:51 AM

Thank you for the feedback guys. 

 

I like the idea of the jackplate to allow room to make a splash guard but putting a heavier motor off the back of the boat is only going to cause more problems for sure. Has anyone every looked into what the lightest higher horsepower engine is that you can put on these hull? I think the V-6 is asking for trouble with weight on these transoms but everyone seems to run them on 18's just fine. Stinks my 130HP has lower compression in one cylinder otherwise I would just keep running it till it dies. 

 

What would you expect to see top end wise with a 150 2 stroke on the back of an 18? Any recommendations as to what motor is the best fit for the R1800's considering weight, performance, etc.? 



#5 rotorwrench

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Posted 10 October 2013 - 09:29 PM

I'm running a '07 Evinrude Etec 150HO on my 1820, getting 42mph top end. Comparable weight to the original '92 Mercury 150 but way more efficient and quiet as a fourstroke. I tried a jackplate, but it made the stern sit even lower sitting statically.


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#6 John3325

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Posted 15 October 2013 - 09:46 AM

So my boss (I work at a boatyard part-time) has a 2010 130 HP Evinrude Etec coming in on trade for a boat he is selling. It is 20" shaft, clean, but has 1000 + hours. We were told that 80 to 90 % of that time was trolling while fishing, and that when plugged into a computer it will be able to show its operation history. 

 

I would be getting for a fair price, based off of what a local and well known shop (3A Marine) will value it at after they plug the computer into it and get an idea of its condition and history with the high hours. 

 

Anyone out there running a 130 HP Etec? How are the performance numbers? Am I going to be putting too much weight on the transom if I put it on? 



#7 newtauk17

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Posted 29 October 2013 - 01:17 PM

Hey John - I just repowered my '85 R1800.  The boat initially had a 115 Merc, then was repowered with several 150's - a couple of XR6's and just before the last repower had an Optimax 150.  A good friend of mine had this boat with the 115 and it was underpowered.  All the 150's did great - except for the problems associated with a 2 stroke.  A couple of weeks ago I repowered (hopefully for the last time) with a Honda F150.  Power wise, its similar - I think the 2 stroke might have pushed the boat out of the hole faster - but not a huge discernible difference.  One of my neighbors has a newer 1820 and he put a Yamaha F115 on it.  With a few folks on the boat, the motor has a tough time pushing the boat out of the hole.  Mine has absolutely no issues like that.  The boat is heavy anyway.  I think a 150 is the way to go.  I just need to prop it right now.  It came with a 15 pitch - it is just not enough prop.  I'm considering going up to a 19 and skipping the 17.  Anybody out there have any input?  Lastly, it is very nice to have a civil conversation - even while running, with the 4 stroke quietness.  Kohei



#8 newtauk17

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Posted 29 October 2013 - 01:24 PM

A couple of things I forgot to mention.  I had the transom rebuilt about a year ago - and it is now solid.  With the Opti 150, I was getting about 50MPH on the GPS with just myself and motor trimmed just right.  Only on lakes with NO wakes.  The thing absolutely flew!  I have not broken in the Honda yet.  At 4000, I'm at 30MPH.  Interesting to see the difference when I reprop.  Kohei



#9 Rabolo 1

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Posted 29 October 2013 - 05:41 PM

Newtauk17, Not to hijack the thread,but at what point did you need to rebuild the transom and what cost were involved. I've been looking at a similar boat and have done the lifting of engine and putting weight on the tail and really don't see any movement. Did you have a Lot of movement. I see figures of several to upwards of 5k to do transoms. This is holding me back from pulling the trigger.

#10 2-N-TOW

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Posted 29 October 2013 - 08:01 PM

Have you considered doing the transom re-build yourself?  It is not really that hard and if you have basic carpentry skills, there are a number of people on this forum that can talk you through the process and save you some big dollars.  These people have done it both ways; the  "conventional" style where you remove the rotten wood core and replace it  with new plywood or composite board, then the ceramic poured core.  


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#11 John3325

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Posted 30 October 2013 - 06:41 AM

Another option I will throw out there is talking to a marine metal manufacturer or specialist. I spoke with Kent Fabrications yesterday, business that did my father's 25' Robalo transom and there work is very good. Six years now my father's transom is still solid as a rock after completely failing. They make custom aluminum plates on the inside, outside, and top of the transom. They put the plates in place, brace the inside gap (if you are having them raise your transom) and weld it closed. Final product looks incredible and it is a great alternative to doing a transom job the conventional way. I was quoted $750 to $1000 soup to nuts for the fabrication of the transom plate (I will be raising mine to 25" if I go this route), the installation, and the sealing of every possible way water could possibly find its way back in. 

 

The best part is that I will now have a solid transom WITH a 25" transom. This will solve my too low to the water problem with the heavier outboard and gets rid of my need for a jackplate at all. 



#12 2-N-TOW

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Posted 30 October 2013 - 11:03 AM

Any chance you can post some pictures of the job he did on your dad's boat?  Curious to see what it looks like.


Dan
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#13 John3325

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Posted 30 October 2013 - 12:02 PM

2-N-TOW, absolutely. Only problem is his boat is in South Orleans, MA and we are in Quincy, MA. His boat stays cape bound all year round so next time I am down I will try to get some pics to post for you guys. 



#14 newtauk17

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Posted 31 October 2013 - 12:34 AM

Hey Rabolo...when I decided to rebuild the transom, the motor would flex the transom 2" or so. My motor repair guy had one of his fiberglass contacts rebuild it for me for $1500. He showed me the old transom...lots of rot along the transom wood. A bit pricey, but I'm in the boonies with not a lot of options. Hope this helps. If you have a choice, talk to all of them. Prices can vary.

Kohei

#15 Rabolo 1

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Posted 31 October 2013 - 02:43 AM

Thanks newtauk17, Did the transom move while running or when you raised the engine and put weight on the tail? I'm not able to see the boat I'm looking at in the water running so I want to be sure I'm doing the test correctly. Thanks again.

#16 newtauk17

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Posted 31 October 2013 - 09:12 AM

No sweat, Rabolo 1. On mine before the transom rebuild, just pushing on the motor made the transom flex - in the water or out. Pretty scary now that I think about it.

#17 John3325

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Posted 31 October 2013 - 10:11 AM

Mine currently does the same thing, standing in the boat when I push on the motor it "bounces" back and forth maybe 1/4" or so if that. Scares you to death, especially since the outboard creates a torquing force on the transom as it runs. 

 

Got the quote for my transom, 875$ with materials and labor. I think I am headed this route, motor is coming off hopefully this week or weekend. Everything gets sealed up best it can and I will be adding some glass to the transom as well. After that, it gets hauled off to Kent Fab where those guys will do there work. 

 

I agree with you Mark G, it is not as good as doing a complete full transom job but with not having a proper shop to do the work over the winter nor the budget or time, this is the best alternative I could recommend to someone to do. Like I said, my father ran into a scenario where he had the boat for about six years, motor on it was four years old (2001/2002 Yamaha 200 HP HPDI on his 1982 25' Robalo) and his transom went. His options were the Kent Fab aluminum transom replacement which he did or a full transom job which was going to cost almost double of what Kent Fab quoted him (I do not remember the exact quotes but I know it was double). Seven years later now actually his transom still is solid with the Kent Fab plated transom, and it shows no signs of being a problem in the near future. 

 

If I had the time, money, and heated shop I would be closing the transom and adding a bracket  :punk:



#18 bmachp7

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Posted 03 February 2018 - 09:50 PM

Mine currently does the same thing, standing in the boat when I push on the motor it "bounces" back and forth maybe 1/4" or so if that. Scares you to death, especially since the outboard creates a torquing force on the transom as it runs. 

 

Got the quote for my transom, 875$ with materials and labor. I think I am headed this route, motor is coming off hopefully this week or weekend. Everything gets sealed up best it can and I will be adding some glass to the transom as well. After that, it gets hauled off to Kent Fab where those guys will do there work. 

 

I agree with you Mark G, it is not as good as doing a complete full transom job but with not having a proper shop to do the work over the winter nor the budget or time, this is the best alternative I could recommend to someone to do. Like I said, my father ran into a scenario where he had the boat for about six years, motor on it was four years old (2001/2002 Yamaha 200 HP HPDI on his 1982 25' Robalo) and his transom went. His options were the Kent Fab aluminum transom replacement which he did or a full transom job which was going to cost almost double of what Kent Fab quoted him (I do not remember the exact quotes but I know it was double). Seven years later now actually his transom still is solid with the Kent Fab plated transom, and it shows no signs of being a problem in the near future. 

 

If I had the time, money, and heated shop I would be closing the transom and adding a bracket  :punk: .

i have the same problem with my 1989 1800 with a new 150 etec on it. i believe there is water in the transom. doing the transom over seems like a daunting task. i think the new motor is heavier so now the water line is at the scuppers so when someone is on the back of the boat water pours in. (I've sinned replaced with ping pong ball scuppers) the fabricated plate seems like the way to go solving my transom and waterline issue but my question is you said it brought it up to 25', did that affect the motor shaft length at all? that would be my one issue.






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