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Wiring up an '86 2120


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Starting to work on some projects and need some advise.   

1. How do you get new wires forward into the bow/anchor locker area? I want to add a small windlass (vertical deck mounted), two speakers and flush mounted running lights right below the rub rail.  When I pulled the old running light off the deck it was filled with foam and water and the existing wiring is looking its age.  I tried(very lightly) to pull on the existing wires but there is no slack so they must be burried in foam? Ugh! is there a tube to snake new wires forward? I've seen pictures of similar boats with these features and they all look to be have done well after they left the factor. 

2. Is the effort to move the batteries forward worth it? What size gauge wire do I need from the engine to the terminals ?  

3. Has anyone wired in a pump to bait well? How did you do it? There is brass thru hull fitting and I use it currently as my anchor well.  If so how did you run your wiring and run them forward to the CC? 

 

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Can you trace the running light wires from the switch on the console to see where they go.  I suspect there was no rigging tube installed back in 1986 and the wiring was held in place by temporary supports until the foam was injected into the hull.  In Robalo's defense, they never expected us to be still running 35+ year old boats when they were building them.  My suggestion would be to fabricate some type of a cable support system under the gunwhale for the new wiring.  

On a 2120, moving 120 pounds away from the transom will help, especially when multiple people want to congregate at the back of the boat when fishing.  The only downside is you will loose some storage under the console.  Here is a link to a battery cable sizing calculator.

https://baymarinesupply.com/bosns_corner_wire_sizes

Which thru hull fitting are you referring to?  Does it have a seacock valve on it or are you talking about the thru-hull fitting in the bottom of the in-floor fish box?

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OK, that confirms what I was thinking too. I'm 100% positive they could down tube in the CC and up the starboard side where the fuel cap is and down then forward sandwiched between the hull and deck/cap. Not sure I follow how to fabricate a support system, the only way I see it happening is to put in a few inspection ports. Dig out the foam and then snake through wires.  I just was trying to avoid cutting up the boat like that.

Thanks for the guide on the batteries. 

Yes, the thru hull fitting in the fish box.  It is just a bronze tube and with a rolled lip on top of a brass nut..typical for boat mfgs of the 70's.  My whalers had them too. 

 

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Definitely not a fan of doing un-necessary boat surgery.  If you go that route, cut a big enough hole under the console, if possible, and do a test run forward under the deck.  The challenge is going to be fabricating something to cut the foam that is also flexible enough to bend through the inspection port but stiff enough so once past that it runs relatively straight.  The end of the hose would need to have a serrated edge so you could spin it and make it cut into the foam.  After about 6 inches of cutting, you would need to withdraw the tubing and clear the foam out of the end, then repeat the process again.  No promises this will work...just an idea.

When I ran the cables for my windlass from the batteries to the helm switch, I used some of the marine grade zip ties that had the screw hole in the end so you could screw them to the bottom of the gunwhale, hidden from sight.  I check them every year and may replace one each year that is cracked.  I spaced them every 12 inches so they were well supported.

That is just the drain for that box.  Same set-up in my boat.  I never could come up with a good idea for a baitwell and it is just shaped wrong...good for a cooler to toss the day's catch in.  I ended up making a live well out of a 20 gallon plastic barrel.  Rigged up a bilge pump with some flexible hose, wiring and alligator clips.  bilge pump was attached to a pvc tube about 2 ft long on the ouput side of the pump and a flange that screwed to the pump bottom and epoxied to the pvc tube.  Off the top of that was the flexible tubing that ran to the bait well.  Zip tie the pump to the transom, alligator clips to the battery, tube to the bait well, and we were good.  Water went in at the bottom of the barrel and exited at the top.  I had a drain a couple inches below the top that ran overboard.  Worked fine and easily set up and removed.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Running lights fixed! Whew was that nerve racking...barely got enough clean wire and found these great heat shrink tubes with solder in the middle.  I was able to use a small torch to do the job... I also added a few extra inches for now.... 

IMG_7379.thumb.jpeg.80f647e0d142c17d3a172f8200f3d994.jpeg

 

 

IMG_7380.jpeg

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Good to hear you had enough wire to splice into!  What do you think of those crimps?

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I used a lot of them in my restoration but still put on shrink tubing over them as a lot of them really melted. I used different methods to shrink them and a lighter worked better than a heat gun. The lighter I was more able to direct the heat versus  the gun doing  too large of a area.  I found they definitely make a better wire to wire connection but the jacket melts too much so that’s why I use the extra shrink tubing even if it’s only for self satisfaction.lol just my 2 cents worth.

 

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