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I know its been awhile..... 

But hey I've been working slowly and almost ready to put fuel in the tank for the first time in 11 years... bahahaha 

Still needs wiring and woodwork but going to splash it soon




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DAMN Barry!!  I thought you had gone back north and was in an extended hibernation! 

Finally gonna get her in the water....that is good.  For a while I thought I was going to have to do an "intervention" and drag that boat back to my house for some tlc.

Lets see some more picture of the boat.  Looks like a lot has happened since you last posted.  The cover boards on the gunwhale look nice.  Have you been cranking the motor over every now and then to keep a little oil on the cylinder walls?

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We've had it on the water for 40 minutes.  Ran out of fuel in an external tank with a short pickup... bahahaha.

Coasted into dock on local lake. 

Had to rebuild carbs again after leaving for 2 months. Evaporation i guess. Left all kinds of %$%&&$$ in the bowls. Im good at that now, and ordered extra kits. I'm hoping there is nothing in the tank after 10 years of being empty. WOW how time flies.

Added ttop, new windshield, ebox, spreader lights, etc. Taken awhile to remember the wiring codes ... forgot what they meant. Hahaha. Where was I... oh yeah. Retracing them laying on your back... cant figure how it gets so dirty and green just sitting here. 

More in a little while


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I glad to see you on the water with the boat!  Must be nice having all those lakes around there.  Looks like you are close enough to completing it to be able to take Sammy Joe out for a boat ride.

I was wondering about that motor.  I thought you had an Etec to bolt on the back of the boat or did your son end up with that motor? (or I am having a senior moment and am making up stuff!).  

I got a chuckle out of the running out of fuel thing.  Done that myself before.  Anybody that has not ran out of fuel is either lying or has not done it yet.  On your tank, if there was any gas in there and it evaporated out, good chance that same crud you found in the bowls is on the bottom of the tank.  I would put 3-4 gallons of gas in the tank, then tow the boat around for maybe 10 miles on a road with lots of turns to help dissolve the crud.  Then see if you can locate a 12 volt electric fuel pump and pump out as much of it as possible.  Anything left should be filtererd out by the fuel/water seperator filter.  It would be a good idea to have an extra one in the boat in case the first one gets loaded up with that crud.

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Senior moment 🤐  I doubt. It was way back when I was trying to get YOUR motor during your project. The Etec thing was Sammy MrRobalo thing... 

Anyway, I never had anything in the tank. I just did get the fuel fill assy. Installed because of the gunnels I was making... and the flow scan setup needed connected. So all i was doing was off the portable. Going down the street aways to use a station that has non-ethenol fuel . Gallon of oil to mix, startron stabilizers,  and see what happens. 

The motor is an '85 150. But i found out must have been boosted. Had the big bore carbs on it, it was overhauled when we bought it in 2007? I think... replaced all the connections and rubber stuff, cables on and on... that old stuff costs more than new... if you can find .

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  • 5 weeks later...

I have not given up yet!  Still working on her about how the cold weather just does not work for me.  Her brilliant idea is we would get a "winter home".  She must have a stash of money hidden somewhere I don't know about.

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  • 4 months later...

Hey Barry looks like I'll be moving into your neck of the woods in a few years. Kathy and I just bought a piece of property in the Sebring - Lake Placid area. I do like how little the traffic and how nice the people are in the area.

We got a tractor/car port and shed put on the property and have been brush hogging, increasing the pond size and cleaning up trees, etc. Kathy is pushing me to build our retirement home sooner than later. 

It's a much easier drive over to the boat on all the back roads. Takes less time and definitely less stressful.




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WOW ! I know its been awhile so much to try and catch up, but I'll try sooner or later. In Ohio for the last time taking care of giving the kids the camper and stuff left here. No more summers in Ohio.

Anyway, bought the bullet... 🤯

Repowered with a 2019 etec. The old 1986 rude was toooo old neede to retire her. Soooooo, as soon as we are back first of September,  Mr. Robalo... Sammy... are going to splash it and run it in.

Lot of custom work done to help me "keep" it in the water for sure...


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Lee -

I could have made you a heck of a deal on a Kubota L3200.  Since we sold the 6 acre waterfront lot this past winter, it has turned into a garage queen.  I still find little chores to do with it, but it is not racking up the hours like it did a year ago!  I also see you have the same problem with your tractor that I had with mine.  Nancy jumped in the seat one day and realized how easy it was to operate with hydrostatic drive and after that she loved helping clearing the lot.  It was funny if one of the boys was on the tractor when she got out there, she would give them the stink eye until they gave up the seat!  Honestly, I had a blast clearing the property and using equipment to just burn off stress from the day-to-day job...kinda miss it.

So you also are the proud owner of another cat ???  You plan on making the pond big enough for a small boat?  Then Barry can bring his over for a test ride.  His boat should lay down some fast lap times with the new motor.

I see what you mean about the drive to the coast from Sebring.  Beats the heck out of fighting that traffic around Orlando and no tolls!

Barry -

Please be sure you finally run this one.  Didn't you buy another motor for that boat a long time ago and never got around to mounting it?  Seems like your son ended up with it, I think.  At least this one is ready to go...just be sure to fill up the tank!  

I have got to get back down that way and visit you, Lee, and Sammy.  Need to just catch up on talking about nothing.  


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No Cat owner - We rent so much equipment from Ring Power (cat dealer/rental company) that my salesman gave me a loaner for the week. What a time saver and a real man toy.

Barry.......that e-tec is the bomb. It looks awesome on the transom of your Robalo. 

Let's all do get together and pick on Dan. LOL

Maybe Bob can make it down too.

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  • 6 months later...

Cant believe that its been .... oh well. Ive run her in freshwater so far, bought a new trailer so as i can dunk her in the saltwater finally. But im already tired of the water coming through the scuppers, so im'a thinkin, to plug existing splashwell drain, creating a new one lower and install another "garboard" and in my new little well, install an 800 bilge and see what happens.... 

So what does the "old timers" think...



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Gotta get Dan back from retirement of yesteryear's and well finish up what we started ummmmmmm.... 7 years ago 🤣

Got some more resin and cloth and cutting tools and a whole lotta are you sure you know what your doing...




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Welcome back!  Time for you to find some time in your busy retirement and start using the boat more!  The boat does look good on the new trailer, but she is not supposed to be  a trailer queen!

Is there a drain under that aluminum plate where the engine bolts are attached?  I think you said yes, but asking to make sure.  My memory is getting bad as i get older.  I honestly would have thought those two existing drains would have been at the bottom of the wet well instead of half way up.  Down low, gravity would drain all rain water out and also any accumulated water once the boat was underway.  If I was to recommend anything, bloc off the two upper drains and install 2 new ones directly below them and just a hair above the bottom of the well so there is enough of an area to apply sealant or epoxy to seal the raw edges.

As for installing the pump, initially I would use a piece of flexible bilge hose drain line and just run it over the transom, maybe zip tieing it to the engine bracket to hold in place.  This is to give you an idea if it will work as intended.  Pump could probably be mounted to a piece of 1/2" starboard during this time.  You might find out this is the better way to go and no further mods needed.

Now lets talk about those side panels that were cut out at one time.  How are they currently attached?  I am guessing you installed some type of a backer behind the wall, then attached the panels with a resin/cabosil mixture.  It does not appear there is any glass on the outside.  Unfortunately, with no glass to tie it all together from the outside, cracks will eventually appear in the fairing compound.

First thing that is needed is some grinding of the joints.  Get the 4 1/2" grinder out and girnd a bevel on the joint all the way around.  Extend the bevel out 2 or 3 inches to each side of the joint and it needs to go all the way through the panel so the grinder just barely kisses the underlying support piece.  Cut some strips of 1708 biax cloth; first strip just a hair wider than the bevel, then all subsequent strips 1 inch narrower.  3 strips of the biax should be enough.  Now cut 2 strips of mat the same width as the widest piece of 1708.

Tape off around the area to be glassed.  Brush some resin on the ground surface, then lay the widest strip of 1708 on the joint and wet out until no white fabric.  Lay the next smaller width 1708 on the joint, centering it up and wet out.  Repeat with the last piece, then use your roller to force all air out of the laminate.  Once this is done, lay the first piece of mat on the joint and wet out, then do the same with the second one.  After wetting out, roll them thoroughly to get the air out of the laminate, then allow to set up.

The idea with the mat is that will be the material sanded down to fair the joint.  The 1708 might get a little sanding, but the bulk should be the mat and the joint strength would not be compromised.  Once it is sanded flush with the existing glass, spread some 3M Marine Vinylester putty on the joint and sand once more.  After that, glazing putty may be required to eliminate any pinholes prior to priming and painting.

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Did I hear you were coming down in April? 🤔 

Okay thats more work than I was wanting...

So while your at it... I'm gonna fill the in floor fish box with 4# foam. I have 1708 and 1.5 mat. So how about a lay up schedule to make it all floor...


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Im was going to send front compartment drain out the front with a through hull and pump... or... extend the pipe through into the splashwell... ummmmmmm. 

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I see what ya wrote!  I should know if a week or so if I will be in Orlando the 1st week of April.

For the floor it will need some coring.  If you could find a quality piece of 1/2" fir plywood, that would be the first choice.  Next would be any 5 ply AB plywood other than that crap Lowes and HD sell that has a paper thin top layer (1/64" I think).  Lay the plywood in the opening and see how close to flush it is.  I am thinking it may be just below the surface of the existibing floor.  If too high, grind the outside 2" down so the core is approximately 3/16"  below the floor.

For layup schedule, one layer of 1708 is all that is required for the bottom side.  Prior to laying the fabric on the core, coat it with a layer of resin first and let it sit 5-10 minutes so the wood can absorb the resin.  Then lay the fabric, wet out and roll.  Go ahead and coat the edges of the plywood at the same time as they will need 2 coats of resin to seal off.  Set aside and let cure.

Flip over and sand any drips from coating the edges.  Sit back in recessed area and see if it is still slightly recessed.  Grind back 3" - 4" back on the existing floor to get the proper taper prior to lay-up.  Paint the raw edge of the core and set in recess.  If there is a substantial gap between the core and existing floor recess, mix up cabosol / resin and pack it in the crack.  Now hot coat the top of the core and let sit 5-10 minutes, lay the first layer of 1708 fabric on the core and extending to the top of the taper, and wet out.  Lay second layer of 1708 on top and maybe 1" shorter along the edges of the prior piece and wet out.  Finally, finish out with a layer or two of 1.5 oz mat extending out to the edge of the taper, wet out, and thoroughly roll out to remove any trapped air.  Let set up, then start the fun part of fairing in!

Remember to take your time when pouring the foam.  That stuff has some pretty good expansion rate.  It is better to do small batches until you get a feel on how much it will fill.  Once you get it close to the top of the recess, take your core material and tape a piece of plastic to the bottom and sides.  Make your final pour and set the core on top prior to it expanding, then weight it down or stand on it for 10-15 minuted to keep if from rising.  This will keep the top sealed.  If you decide to not go that route, after the foam has solidified, cut it back flush and paint the top of the foam with resin to seal the surface.

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Well folks its chilly and rainy and I figured Dan... didnt have much to do, soooooooo heres another project to add to my 3 others. After 44 years I'm guessing these front hatches couldn't stand up under my round little body...

So I want to obviously save the skins and replace wood with carbon core honeycomb maybe 3/4"... 





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The first thing is pay attention to how the "correct" coring material is recessed back from the edge of the hatch.  Record the dimension of where the recessed lip is located as it is critical it gets copied exactly when installing the new core.  May also be easier to get a piece of cardboard and make a template of the raised area prior to doing any cutting.

I would first try to cut the bad core out with an oscillating saw.  If the old fiberglass is burning up the blade, Plan B would be to take a skill saw and set the depth to just cut through the fiberglass, then cut the old glass into pieces that can be pried off.  See how much of the old coring material can be easily removed and measure a piece to determine what thickness is needed to go back with.

Break out the 4 1/2" angle grinder with the roughest disc available (24 or 36 grit) and clean up the skin removing any stuck coring and slightly rough up the original fiberglass skin.  Around the edges where the old fiberglass covered the edge of the core and then laid down on the bottom side of the skin, you need to grind off that glass so when the new fiberglass is applied, that recessed lip is still the same depth as the original one.

Cut your core material 1/2" smaller all the way around than the original core.  Also make the rounded corners at least 1" radius (this  makes working the fabric so much easier).  Mark which side of the core will be facing the skin, then run a round over bit (3/8" or 1/2") around the edge that will not go against the skin.  Attach the core to the skin.  If using any of the composite coring materials, I would mix up some resin and hardner at the correct ratio, paint the side of the core that will be bonded to the skin with the resin, then thicken the remaining resin with cabosil to peanut butter consistency and spread on the skin where the core will be attached.  It is a good idea to used a notched spreader similar to a floor trowel.  This way, when you place the core on the skin and push down to bed it into the mixure, it can spread out evenly between the core and skin.  Set some weight on top of the core to hold in place and clean up any squeeze out along the edges.  Now let set up for 24 hours.

The next day, cut your fabric to lay over the core and finish in the recessed area as close as possible to the outer lip.  1708 biaxial is the fabric of choice as it lays out around shaped edges so easily.  For this purpose, 1 layer of cloth will be sufficient.

Carbon core is like a bee hive with the cell structure.  When you cut it, those cells are now open.  To properly glass over the edge, they need to be filled in so there is no trapped air.  Mix up some resin and thicken with cabosil to a putty consistency, then use a putty knife to force the mixture into the open cells along the edges.  Also make a bead of the putty where the core meets the skin, the take a piece of 3/4" pvc pipe and drag it in that bead to form a radiused inside corner.  Use your putty knife to remove any excess material.  Now lay the fabric on the core and wet out, then roll the entire structure with the fiberglass roller to push air out and force and excess resin to the top of the laminate.  Do the same along the edges.  Any place the roller cannot get to, use your brush to work the wrinkles out of the fabric and all air out between the fabric and core.  You might find it necessary to make some relief cuts in the fabric where the coring makes a sharp turn.  Remember, it is important to work the material to insure a good bond to the underlying material.

Once finished, clean up the roller with acetone and leave the hatch alone for 24 hours for the resin to cure.

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