Jump to content
Robalo Boating Forum
Sign in to follow this  
Johnp0328

1976 230 slow rebuild begins.

Recommended Posts

On 1/10/2019 at 8:27 PM, Retainer said:

Oh my...I thought my project was difficult. I didn’t go the length of cutting the deck out like that. But all of the work will be an experience and you will know your boat like no other. Good luck and I will help answer what I can along the way based on my own job.

Unfortunately that’s how I received the boat with the floor cut out, Not my choice but does give me The opportunity to run things the way I want.

Not much to update spent a hour today getting the rest of the wood out of the transom, What a pain In the a$$ that was.I did notice a problem on the port side of the transom, the inner layer of glass has delaminated from the outside layer, any ideas how to tackle this issue? Picture included of siad issue.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Don't see the picture.  Until it is posted, I am guessing the glass has delaminated between layers?  If so, sounds like either a dry spot when last repaired or it was not rolled out to force the air out of the laminate stack.  Depending on where it is, can you get a grinder in there to cut the inner layer out, then go back and lay new fabric over the area to build it back out?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

13 minutes ago, 2-N-TOW said:

Don't see the picture.  Until it is posted, I am guessing the glass has delaminated between layers?  If so, sounds like either a dry spot when last repaired or it was not rolled out to force the air out of the laminate stack.  Depending on where it is, can you get a grinder in there to cut the inner layer out, then go back and lay new fabric over the area to build it back out?

 Sorry having issues uploading pictures. It’s going to be hard to cut out layer as I only have 2 inches of room. Going to have to figure something out however.

A3D24AF2-0B8A-4801-BFFF-E856A729AA1D_zps

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Is the delamination also present on the piece of skin you cut out?  Stick a knife blade in that crack and see how far it extends in.  Try putting a little pressure on the knife blade and see if it causes additional delamination.  Depending on how far the crack extends past the cut will determine the plan of attack.  Don't get too upset, though....this can be fixed.  It may mean a little more work, but the good thing is it is the outer skin.  Just may need to cut some more of that exterior skin back a little more to get to solid glass, then build up the joint between the original skin/open area where the bad glass has been cut out/original cutout area.  

I do have another question, though.  Is that cream material (bonding putty) inside of the transom core?  If so, you need a "plan" on how to build out that void where the putty has been removed so the new transom core butts up tight against it.  Does the inner glass extend all the way to the hull side and up to the cap...hard to tell from the pictures.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, 2-N-TOW said:

Is the delamination also present on the piece of skin you cut out?  Stick a knife blade in that crack and see how far it extends in.  Try putting a little pressure on the knife blade and see if it causes additional delamination.  Depending on how far the crack extends past the cut will determine the plan of attack.  Don't get too upset, though....this can be fixed.  It may mean a little more work, but the good thing is it is the outer skin.  Just may need to cut some more of that exterior skin back a little more to get to solid glass, then build up the joint between the original skin/open area where the bad glass has been cut out/original cutout area.  

I do have another question, though.  Is that cream material (bonding putty) inside of the transom core?  If so, you need a "plan" on how to build out that void where the putty has been removed so the new transom core butts up tight against it.  Does the inner glass extend all the way to the hull side and up to the cap...hard to tell from the pictures.

The skin that was cut had no delamination, neither does the starboard side.The crack extends half way to the port side corner, was hoping to have a bit more area to tie into when everything is glassed back into place, but at this rate I might be wrapping glass around the corners.

The “indented” area you see with putty is similar on both sides,I believe it was foam filled to make the inner liner butt up to transom core. My initial plan was to remove remaining water soaked foam in corners and build up the” indented “ area with marine grade wood so it’s flush and have a completely level inner glass wall so the transom core could be butted together correctly.The port side will need nearly 1inch of build up to be level, starboard side will need about a quarter inch.Eventually the glass does tie into the hull and cap. Iam assuming this has all been butchered over the years and done incorrectly hence the reason iam at this point.Will include a few more pictures hopefully giving you a better idea of what iam working with.

CFDEEE5C-F9E2-4E9C-ACFF-2B7A6F02D372.jpeg

C4F8B63D-E7C2-477D-B817-47A61AB6CFFF.jpeg

Edited by Johnp0328

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Starboard side.On another note I powersprayed the side of the tank and out came lots of the foam. You mentioned earlier using a wire to knife thru the bottom foam? Any suggestions on what material to use to handle that job?

2BDE93FF-D47A-48CE-AAE0-D69BBA6791CF_zps

C8409C04-2ABC-41E3-8CD0-5FDF1A2CB904_zps

 

 

Edited by Johnp0328

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That looks like 6" of glass left on the transom?  Cut it back leaving at least the same amount as what you have along the bottom.  I would even say make a few small cuts like 1 inch at at time to get to good glass.  If you get to a cut and the bad area is no  more than 1" in from the edge, stop cutting.  When you re-glass everything back together, there will be a beveled edge 2-3 inches wide into the old glass and that should be good enough to finish cleaning up the delamination.

Couple of ideas on the cable saw / wire saw:

image.png

https://www.amazon.com/AoOnZan-Outdoor-Survival-Stainless-Portable/dp/B06XTPGSXC/ref=sr_1_13?hvadid=241656606608&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9008526&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1o1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=12463338201487512193&hvtargid=aud-589036435099%3Akwd-451740310&ie=UTF8&keywords=cable+saw&qid=1548119131&sr=8-13&tag=googhydr-20

or 

image.png

http://cspforestry.com/products/green-mountain-high-limb-chainsaw.html?_vsrefdom=adwords&gclid=Cj0KCQiA-JXiBRCpARIsAGqF8wWdEYsABTiAVqr9WEpaekySlmv0HHP4PxATNGP4_kWmuS5rBX77cYgaAlcbEALw_wcB

I have assisted a friend in removing his tank and we did the pressure washer method first (faster than digging it out).  We then used a cable saw he had to cut enough on either end so we could get two straps around the tank, then used a come-along attached to a big tree branch to pull on the tank while still working the saw until it broke free.

As much as a pain it is cutting out a tank and a lot of times the foam contributed to the corrosion to the tank, seriously consider alternate ways to install the tank using straps and fuel resistant plastic blocks under the tank to get it off the bottom of the coffin box.   Also, coat the tank with coal tar epoxy to keep moisture off the aluminum and consider a drain from the coffin box to the bilge so water has a way to escape (disclaimer here is that drain will also allow fuel into the bilge if the tank should spring a leak in the future).

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you for all the tips and help it’s greatly appreciated.Cable saw will be here tomorrow,hopefully I can borrow neighbors fork lift to make quick work of removing the tank. If not I guess engine hoist will have to do.( will take lots of photos).As far as future tank,I purchased a poly tank, once everything is all removed and cleaned I plan to install with straps and hopefully not need any foam to make her secure.I will loose about 20 gallons but for the price and piece of mind of it hopefully never having leakeage issues it’s a sacrifice I will gladly accept.

 

D79B243D-DB63-41C5-94BB-FFCB632DDE05_zps

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 1/21/2019 at 8:20 PM, 2-N-TOW said:

That looks like 6" of glass left on the transom?  Cut it back leaving at least the same amount as what you have along the bottom.  I would even say make a few small cuts like 1 inch at at time to get to good glass.  If you get to a cut and the bad area is no  more than 1" in from the edge, stop cutting.  When you re-glass everything back together, there will be a beveled edge 2-3 inches wide into the old glass and that should be good enough to finish cleaning up the delamination.

Couple of ideas on the cable saw / wire saw:

image.png

https://www.amazon.com/AoOnZan-Outdoor-Survival-Stainless-Portable/dp/B06XTPGSXC/ref=sr_1_13?hvadid=241656606608&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9008526&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1o1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=12463338201487512193&hvtargid=aud-589036435099%3Akwd-451740310&ie=UTF8&keywords=cable+saw&qid=1548119131&sr=8-13&tag=googhydr-20

or 

image.png

http://cspforestry.com/products/green-mountain-high-limb-chainsaw.html?_vsrefdom=adwords&gclid=Cj0KCQiA-JXiBRCpARIsAGqF8wWdEYsABTiAVqr9WEpaekySlmv0HHP4PxATNGP4_kWmuS5rBX77cYgaAlcbEALw_wcB

I have assisted a friend in removing his tank and we did the pressure washer method first (faster than digging it out).  We then used a cable saw he had to cut enough on either end so we could get two straps around the tank, then used a come-along attached to a big tree branch to pull on the tank while still working the saw until it broke free.

As much as a pain it is cutting out a tank and a lot of times the foam contributed to the corrosion to the tank, seriously consider alternate ways to install the tank using straps and fuel resistant plastic blocks under the tank to get it off the bottom of the coffin box.   Also, coat the tank with coal tar epoxy to keep moisture off the aluminum and consider a drain from the coffin box to the bilge so water has a way to escape (disclaimer here is that drain will also allow fuel into the bilge if the tank should spring a leak in the future).

 

Dan, as I said I tried to drill through the coffin box and thru the bulkhead with a 48” drill bit extension 3/4 inch bit. Going thru the box was easy but I had a heck of a time after that point. Not being able to see where or what I was drilling scared me so I stopped. I patched up the hole in the box, installed the coal tar epoxy tank and surrounded it with foam. 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was kinda thinking it may be more "comfortable" going from the coffin box back.  One thing that can get in the way is that darn drain in the bottom of the fish box between the coffin box and bilge.  Being able to see the approximate location of the drain while drilling from the coffin box, you could get a few inches off the centerline to miss it.  The previous owner managed to get a drain ran from the coffin box in my boat, so it can be done.  I promise to take lots of pictures of it when I finally have to pull my tank.  I have a borescope camera and will try running up through the bilge and see if I can get any decent pictures that way, too.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well have not had much to update, work has been busy and weekends full or errands. I was at Home Depot today and decided I had a free hour or two today so I bought the cheapest 3/4 ply I could find to mock up the transom. I guess in my head I assumed I could just slide the full transom in one piece... I was very wrong, so I mocked up transom made a cut down the center line at a 45 degree angle. Is this a ok method? Could it be a possible issue down the road? I guess my other option would be to remove or cut cap to be able to slide a one piece transom down into the void.

A7CA1EBA-A933-441F-9138-2B43AE4F12FE.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

When we did our transom we did it in 3 layers to deal with this problem.  this way there was at least 2 solid layers backing up any of the seams.  I want to say we avoided a center seam as well.  If i remember correctly...

Layer 1 was 2 pieces with the seam on the left

layer 2 was 2 pieces with the seam on the right

layer 3 was 3 pieces with a large center section and small pieces on either side. 

Whatever you do take comfort that it will be stronger than what was there.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Definitely want the seams off center.  If you do not plan on cutting the cap, make the joints as tight as possible.  If you do cut the cap, leave as much flat area as possible for glassing it back together and allowing for tapering the glass.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sadly not much to report with work so busy haven’t had much time to work on the 230. I did however buy a 1980 2520 that someone ripped off the transom (somewhat) and gave up on. Makes total sense no time for one project but go ahead and buy another.

E8001D72-1C12-49A6-9759-305DA3081C4A.jpeg

25E43260-2669-4B39-8BFC-7441A567E63B.jpeg

057D276C-2330-462A-8015-0C5A72BA2716.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Dude...you got it bad!  How did you convince the wife you had not lost your mind?

How bad are the stress cracks in the floor in front of the battery boxes?  Boat looks pretty good on the outside other than the butcher job on the transom.  What are your plans for it?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 3/8/2019 at 9:07 PM, 2-N-TOW said:

Dude...you got it bad!  How did you convince the wife you had not lost your mind?

How bad are the stress cracks in the floor in front of the battery boxes?  Boat looks pretty good on the outside other than the butcher job on the transom.  What are your plans for it?

What looks to be cracked on the edge of the batterie box is someone’s attempt at beginning to cut away the box like the other side. The hull itself is really solid even the floorboard is rock solid. It would be safe to say it’s actually in better shape then the 230  other then the hack job removal of the transom. Iam contimplating whether I should sell the 230 to re-coup some funds I spent to buy this hull and focus on the 2520, as I like the layout and Ice boxes better on this hull. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...