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fretz

console rebuild wish list

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I want to refresh the console on our 84 2020.  Its getting removed to reseal the tank cover so ill have full access to take care of glass work wiring etc. this winter.

Id like to re-set the wheel so its more horizontal than vertical as well as move it closer to center line.  

The lower aft facing sliding doors are shot and i'm thinking of removable panel with an indent as a foot rest instead.

There are currently 2 angled removable panels with a flat spot in the middle for the gauges.  I want to remove the port angled panel and extend the central flat to the edge leaving more room for a large flush mount GPS.  this would allow more room for the wheel too.  the starboard panel will be retained for storage

My batteries are under the front seat.  I want to move them aft over the tank access and build in an insulated cooler under the seat.

I have speakers in the side of the console currently.  I want to remove and on one side of the console ill install a set of drawers and the other will get a large door to gain access to the interior.

The opening behind the front backrest is also useless.  A removable set of drawers would allow access when needed.

Please share any photos of neat console ideas of share your thoughts on the perfect center console.  

Were not big fisherman but we do wet a line on occasion...  The boat is well used as a general runabout during the summer.

The leaning post was made out of wood and will be rebuilt at the same time.   

Ill get some pics up shortly.

  

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Sounds like quite a project. Look forward to the pics.

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Sounds like someone is getting ready to have a busy winter.

Here is an idea on re-doing the steering wheel angle and position.  Make a new glass pod that can have the sides cut to achieve the desired angle.  I actually tried this years ago when another member was having a problem figuring out how to re-locate his compass.

Dig through the wife's corning ware or glass bowels and find one that is the approximate diameter to accomplish your task.  Ideally, it will be be deep enough so when finished, the sides can be trimmed down when fitting to the console.  A tupperware bowl may work, too, but I never tried it.  just put some resin on a section of the tupperware, let it set up, and see if it tries to dissolve the plastic.   

Put 3-4 good layers of wax (automotive will work but mold release wax would be perfect).  Let it dry to haze between coats, buff, then re-apply.  After wax job is complete, drape your fabric (1708 is easier to work with than csm as it will lay over shapes so easily) over the bowl and cut reliefs so it will lay in there fairly even.  Since the helm is probably going to be surface mounted on the new pod, you are going to need some strength.  Since core material is out of the  question, figure on 4 or 5 layers of fabric.

Stack the fabric off to one side.  Cover the outside and bottom of the bowl with blue painters tape so no resin gets on it.  Now the fun time.  Paint a heavy coat of unwaxed gelcoat in the bowl.  It can be brushed, and what I do is apply 3 or 4 coats to be sure the inside of the bowl/mold is thoroughly covered.  Once done, set the bowl in cardboard box and put a 60 watt light bulb in there to give some heat to get the resin to cure completely.  Give it a few hours to kick off.  The outside will be tacky and that is fine.

 Now start placing your layers of glass in the bowl, wet it out thoroughly, then next layer.  Make sure to work all the air out of the cloth when wetting it out.  After you get past the first 2 or 3 layers, start cutting back on the amount of resin as there is probably going to be some excess in the bottom of the bowl.  If you have one of those ribbed "bubble buster" rollers, be sure to use it to work the air out and compact the fabric.

Once finished, place it in back in the cardboard box with the light bulb so it cures completely.  24 hours later, work the edge of the fiberglass loose.  If you have an air compressor, blast some air where you have worked it loose and it should pop out.

When I did mine, I "borrowed" a corning ware bowl.  When finished, washed it with Dawn dish detergent to get rid of the wax, and it is still being used to cook today!

 

bottom view.jpg

front view.jpg

side view.jpg

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Thanks for the idea

i scored a legit vacuum pump on Craig’s list last year which made recoreing the hatches much easier too. It’s fun working with it.

When I try to post photos from my phone I’m exceeding the allowable file size. Any advice there?

 

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Vacuum pumps open up a whole new world of options when glassing.  I have had a blast with the one I built a few years ago.  Prior to that, I used a venturi style pump that ran off the air compressor.  The one I have now is so much easier to fine tune.

Iphone or android?

 

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i phone

the files are too big but i dont know how to resize on the phone to upload.  

And i think im going to set up a nmea converter for my old outboard gauges to show up in a modern GPS...  Who am i kidding!

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I don't have an iphone, but a quick search found this for photo resizing apps:

https://photo.wondershare.com/photo-editing-tips/how-to-resize-images-on-iphone.html

I have considered interfacing the motor and gps on my boat.  The problem is the gps is NMEA1830 and the engine is NMEA2000...talk about a challenge!  In your case, it may not be as hard as mine.  I would think you could get analog style sensors that would have the NMEA2000 interface already incorporated in them.

Since you brought up vacuum pumps earlier, figured I would show you what I started with

 

vacuum pump manifold.jpg

This one was driven by my compressor.  Noisy but it worked.  Then I got bored one winter and assembled this...

 

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back.jpg

side.jpg

Pump was under $100.  Remaining parts added another $75.  This pump will pull 25" HG.  I know there is a slight leak around the plastic valves that I plug the vacuum lines into and if I replaced them with brass ball valves, should be able to pull close to 27".  The valves I am using are cheap plastic water valves from the hardware store and were designed for pressure to make the fitting leak proof...the vacuum works opposite so that is why the little leak.  Besides, if resin makes it to the valve, I can easily replace it with another $4 valve and be back in business.

The nice thing about this pump is it is extremely quiet and the pump motor should be good for hundreds of hours of run time or cycles.  These pumps come from those pay air compressors you see at gas stations, so they have a good track record.

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2F17F495-9885-40D6-A1E8-43B11D3BCCC7.jpeg

This is the big decision. The panel on the left above the wheel will be removed. It will be rebuilt flat without the angle making a larger area for a new fixed panel with a flush mount gps, gauges and switches. 

Moving the wheel will be a decision once the panel is laid out. 

The sliding doors below the helm will be replaced by a removable panel with a molded in foot rest. 

Edited by fretz
Adding text

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I think we have the photo thing figured out. 

6197E95B-BA72-4791-B9ED-463479581FF8.jpeg

Currently the batteries are under the front seat.  I want to move them aft under the console and build an insulated cooler under the seat.

the seatback drops down to access the inside of the console.  its not water tight so something needs to be done.

 

BDD56376-520E-4ECE-AFC7-372E4772E769.jpeg

speakers are out and a door would go on this side of the console.  the other side could get a set of drawers.

the teak covering boards are getting replaced with new teak and i'm considering removing the bow rail all together.  I hate the constant rust.   If i remove it to redo the topside gelcoat I dont know if i could even remount it...  any thoughts on that?

I need to re do the gelcoat at the transom and non-skid the floor and bow hatches.

 

85F2ACD6-6AE2-45C1-A68A-BB8EDE046EC0.jpeg

the existing leaning post slides over the original seat pedestal bases.  the wood has rotted so were going to make a copy out of fiberglass, remove the seat bases and mount it to the floor.  the leaning post will have room for a cooler to slide under with drawers above it.   

 

1A6DDB58-B1E8-49C8-9E01-D618B0102D80.jpeg

Edited by fretz
adding text

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bow rail -  is the rust from the fasteners or the railing?  I kinda like the look of the railing in the boats, plus if you have any youngsters on board, it does help to confine them a little.

Console - if you go flat on the angled piece for a display, best to leave the wheel where it is so the display is directly in front of you.  Even being off to the side a little bit cuts down on the brightness of the display versus what it looks like directly in front of you.

 

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Might want to check out Tuff Coat Marine ( www.tuffcoatmarine.com)   for the non skid floor coating.  Pretty nice stuff, I just did my R-236 floor with it an Very Please with it.

It comes in 21 different color choices and you can call them if you want a special color !  Water base epoxy, so working with it is very easy and very Low VOCS..

I posted a couple pics of mine, about a week or so ago.   Look for  "The Dr. Ann"  R-236

 

Don

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I saw your review of tuff coat.  Its on the list.  

Leaning towards  gelcoat to address the sides of the cockpit/transom and paint for the nonskid, the console and leaning post.  

Who have you all used to match the original factory gelcoat?  I believe the original gelcoat was by ferro?  If ordered products from mini craft in the past with good success.  Wasn't sure if anyone has been down this route recently. 

 

Thanks!

 

 

 

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Your right that Mini Craft is good on having the original formulas, but they are proud of their stuff!  I ended up just going with plain old white when I re-did my transom.  You can see some difference between the transom and hull sides, but it is close enough for me.  

Are you going planning on using DuraKote when spraying the gelcoat?

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mini craft sells the gel coat paste for filling holes and the stuff in the spray can for larger areas.  Ive used both

Ive read about dura coat helping with spraying too.  have to make a decision shortly.

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I have sprayed a few gallons of gelcoat thinned with the DuraKote additive.  DuraKote recommends a 50/50 mix with the gelcoat, but based on what others have said on different forums, try to keep the mix %60 gelcoat 40% DuraKote to get a more gelcoat rich coverage.  The finish will have a slight orange peel appearance.  I did some wet sanding with 400, then 600 grit wet/dry, followed by 3M SuperDuty Rubbing Compound, then polish.

A decent gelcoat gun runs $90-100.  I think the gun has a 2.5 mm spray cap.  After every cup mixed and sprayed, clean the gun  with acetone or the old gelcoat will cause the next batch to kick prematurely and you then have a mess (speaking from experience...DUHHH).  Now, if this does happen and you cannot clean the gun out of all the congealed gelcoat, stop and concentrate on cleaning the spray cap and fluid needle.  Now, go buy the purple Harbor Freight spray gun for around $15, then switch the fluid needle and spray cap over to the new gun.  You are now back in business!  And yes, I have proved this works after one of my screw ups trying to run 2 cups of gelcoat through the gun while it was 85 degrees outside!

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Tank is good, just re-sealing the coffin lid, correct?  (Making sure as things can change once a project like this starts.)  

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I have additional photos but Ive exceeded the attachment limit. 

Any ideas?

I cant upload to the gallery from my phone.  I can only use the upload image button.

 

 

Edited by fretz

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Try now and see if you can upload pictures.

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3CB49343-634E-4C42-9615-4DDBFD53E7F7.jpeg

With the console off it was loaded in the truck and made the trip home to PA

 

1F5A06C0-B2A4-4BE6-9972-4FBD2C6029D6.jpeg

Ill be able to do more at home at night than trying to do everything in a few weekends between the house projects.  i can also pretend im driving the boat to get me through the ides of march;-)

the leaning post will be rebuilt 3-4" taller and were putting drawers in the top and leaving the bottom open for a cooler.

209BF085-D428-4D54-ADB1-64C657D9020A.jpeg

with all the trim and hardware removed i cut out the left opening to expand the dash panel

 

30239A08-40A8-4BC3-8CC2-18B8A600B8D9.jpeg

with the upper dash panel at the correct size im thinking i need to cut out the lower panels and redo them as one horizontal piece.

 

E7D97EBA-9667-433B-BCA6-35A3EF59D692.jpeg

this shows the GPS location.  gauges will be on the left and switches will be across the bottom.  the original compartment on the right will be refinished and sealed on the bottom as storage.  original teak trim and cupholder will be used up top but the teak frame below will be replaced by a panel with a foot rest.

 

stay tuned...

 

Edited by fretz
adding text

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8CE03B02-7401-42AA-853B-05B49FF6669D.jpeg

From the side.  I'm thinking the lower panel should be extended out to do away with the existing angle for the helm.  This would elevate the wheel and make it more horizontal.   All the existing holes will be filled and well start fresh mounting everything.  

 

Edited by fretz
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Is the gps a Garmin 3210?

I am guessing your steering is not hydraulic.  If it is, you may need to modify the fluid fill screw so when it is horizontal, fluid can easily be added.  Also be sure you have enough room between the wheel and leaning post with the steering horizontal as it will extend out past the console more than the current set-up depending on where the helm is mounted.

Looks like you are using tileboard/melamine hardboard for mocking up the console.  That is excellent material for making a one-off mold for the console.  Flip it over so the finished side is down.  That would end up being the "finished" surface of the new piece.  Brace the back side of it with a hot glue gun and wood blocking so it will hold its shape.  Don't be shy on bracing it as it will take a little abuse when you lay your glass on the other side.  

Once you got it formed up, flip it over and fill any areas that need to be built up with Bondo.  Sand smooth, trying to sand as little as possible on the melamine finish.  Hit it with a couple coats of past wax and buff.  When you get your fiberglass supplies, pick up a quart of PVA (mold release) and spray a mist coat on the waxed surface and let thoroughly dry.  If you are a little anxious to get to the gelcoating, a hair dryer or heat gun will help speed up the drying process.  

Next phase is the glass work.  I like to use 16 oz plastic cups for mixing resin and gelcoat in.  Small batches are easier to manage and you tend to not waste material due to it setting up early.  Use unwaxed white gelcoat.  Brush on 3 or 4 coats to get ample thickness of material.  Once this is done, if you have a cardboard box you can sit over top of the mold then have a small electric heater blow into the box on low setting to make the gelcoat kick off.  This should take a couple of hours...you can tell when it is set by testing an edge of the mold to see if any material transfers to your finger.  Once it is set up, it will still feel a little tacky since it does not have the wax in it to complete the cure on the surface.  This helps the bond between the gelcoat and the follow layers of glass and resin.

Cut the mat so you will have 2 layers.  Next cut some 1708 biax cloth so you will have 3 layers.  The mat goes in the mold first and serves 2 purposes; (1) it will be a sacrificial layer for sanding and fairing and (2) an interface between the gelcoat and cloth to prevent print through of the cloth weave in the gelcoat surface.  Lay the first layer of mat on the mold and wet out thoroughly then add the second layer and wet out.  Using a bubble buster roller (that is the name...a plastic roller with multiple ridges in it on a wire frame handle), roll over the mat to compact the mat, forcing air out of the layup.  Now lay the 1708 layer, wet out, another 1708 layer and wet out, then the final 1708 layer and wet out.  Hit the entire layup with the bubble buster roller again and work it over good to get all air out of the layup. 

Once you are done, clean up the roller with some acetone for later use.  Set the mold back in the cardboard box, turn your heater on, crack a cold one and check back on it in a few hours.  Once it sets up in a few hours, you can turn the heater off but don't get too anxious to pull it off the  mold yet.  Let it set up for 24 hours so the "green" layup can finish curing /'hardening.  Then you can work it loose with a thin blade putty knife and phase 2 starts on glassing the new piece to the original console.

 

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Mocked up a pod for the helm

Once remade in teak this will balance out the cup holder and storage cubby on the right. 

You can see the beginning of the foot rest too. 

9E09A63E-47AA-4964-8F44-C6FB59DB7186.jpeg

1FB8A909-51C4-4800-BF1F-42C329DE55DA.jpeg

C4B45F85-B326-4031-9267-3EF307B6DF16.jpeg

F881CEB2-06C5-43BA-A41C-07ED0AC93EFE.jpeg

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