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Sharkyt

Clog under console R180 2014

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I have a 2014 R180 and yes water in console. Always drained out very slowly while raised way up. Now water will not drain at all. Found the drain hole at first bulkhead headboard foam clogged that but took care of that bulkhead. Now the second bulkhead 1/4" away from the gas cell must be clogged. Used power washer in console are trying to clean out the clog from the area first. Nothing!! So I opened the round hatch at the gas cell and there was water all over gas cell from powerwashing, so a clog or no drain hole. Dealer Dealers First Choice Orlando & Daytona Beach I've been calling since nov 2017. NOTHING anyway was in touch with Robalo and they gave me some ideas but nothing is releasing the water. So I cut the bulkhead at the back of the gas cell. Could hardly get my hand in so I cut a little more. I'll glue another piece of waferboard after I figure out how to fix. I then took pics on inside that bulkhead and guess what????? Drain hole is fiberglassed over except for a 1/8" hole. Anyone have any ideas how to get a drill in there with a holesaw bit to make a real drain??? Water is 8" in the head compartment and I see a lot of breadboard foam precise floating around. I tried to use a snake to try and bang out the fiberglass but it too thick. 

Should I put a bilge pump in there? But the again still a ton of water under gas cell. I worry because down in Florida we go out to Gulf Stream for dolphin, wahoo, tuna. 

 

Please help

sharkyt 

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Welcome to the site.

Did you remove the gas tank in order to drill the hole for the drain?  Don't use waferboard to repair the hole....best thing would be to lay up some fiberglass on a flat surface the same thickness as the walls of the fuel cell.  Once it has cured, cut to fit the hole.  Use excess material to make a flange on the backside of the hole.  Scuff back of hole and flange material with 36 grit paper to rough it up, then mix up a thickened fiberglass resin/hardner/cabsosil about the thickness of peanut butter and spread on part of flange that will attach to fuel cell wall.  Shoot a few wood screws to hold it in place while it cures, then  spread the thickened resin on the remaining flange, install plug, and temporary screws to hold it.  Once everything has cured, remove screws and fill holes with either some vinylester filler or mix up some more thickened resin (make thicker this time) and fill the holes and gap between the plug and wall to seal everything off.  Since this is non-structural and will not be seen, I don't think grinding the edges of the plug and adjacent wall back to a bevel and back filling with fiberglass is necessary but would  make for a nicer looking job.

Is there an in floor box behind the fuel cell?   How far is it between the fuel cell and bilge?  You may be able to drill it with an electrician's drill bit (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Southwire-0-75-in-Flex-Auger-Bit/1000056709)

If you go this route, the holes should be lined with pvc tubing to keep the water from spreading between bulkheads.  Be sure to seal each end of the tubing to the fiberglass where it passes from the console to the fuel coffin and from the fuel coffin to the bilge.

Was Robalo's suggestion to go with a bilge pump?  If so, do you have a way to run the discharge hose under the deck and up the side so a thru-hull fitting could be installed? 

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