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2120Tom

Fuel hose replacement

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Wondering if anyone has had success replacing their original fuel line from tank to motor ? without removal of the coffin lid ? as in working below deck through the inspection plate hole ? attaching new hose to old and pulling it through in either direction?

I can see the hose using flashlight and mirror with the under helm inspection cover off. It is secured on the port side coffin with 3 rubber lined retainer clips spaced out, the hose appears to be loose in the clips, but I lose sight of where it goes at the back of the coffin. ANY and all thoughts are appreciated. Thanks

 

Here's why I ask.....Recently my 250 Etec stalled, then ran rough after starting in the morning,, first time it's ever done this in it's 280 hour life. It seemed to run fine once I got the rpms' up and powered me back to the marina at normal cruise speeds and onto the trailer for the road home.

Once I got back home, decided to pull the under cowl filter for replacement. What came out of it wasn't pretty! Poured the gas contents into a clear plastic tub, out came literally thousands of fine particles of what appeared to be rust,, filled the filter again with fresh fuel, sloshed it around and dumped again....more of the same, clouding the fuel so much that it couldn't be seen through until the particles settled. Once settled you could see some bits of aluminum mixed in with the brown sediment, which I would expect from an aluminum tank, an RDS 100gal. built and installed in '94.

 

I transferred most of the dirty fuel to a glass jar allowing a slight amount to remain in the tub, rubbed it between my fingers and it felt gritty, put a small magnet to it and it wouldn't cling,, so it's not rust. (don't know how rust would come from an aluminum tank anyway)

My next thought was hoses? Running ethanol fuel, I wondered if the insides of the hoses were hardening and disintegrating to the point of feeling like grit?

I syphoned off the remaining tank fuel that would syphon out through the motor primer bulb/hose, about 27 gallons and the more that syphoned the less grit I found, so that's encouraging. My next attempt is to syphon out whatever I can using a bulb and hose pushed to the rear of the tank through the sender hole atop the tank.

 

I've only owned this boat 12 years and I've been diligent as to filtering my fuel,, can't speak for the other owner, so the debris could just be accumulated dirt from his source of fueling....?

 

Sorry for being long,, but I try to be thorough in my descriptive writing. Again, Thanks for any thoughts.

 

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Do you have a fuel/water filter between the tank and engine?

 

That does not sound like a fuel hose issue. I would suspect a buildup of crud in the tank. Darn ethanol can cause all sorts of problems in an aluminum tank, especially if it absorbed moisture and phase seperated, For whatever reason, the fuel can then create that stuff you are finding in the filter. It may have been sitting in the bottom of your tank until it got agitated from either going over a boat wake or running in rough water, sending it through the fuel pickup.

 

I don't think your fuel hose is going bad. Cut a small piece off at the primer bulb (just a couple inches) then split the hose and look at the interior to determine if it is or is not going bad.

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Thank You Dan. It was recommended to me by the Etec dealer NOT to install another filter, claims it not needed, and I have to somewhat agree so long as the engine filter is functioning as it should. The Etec filter mount bracket has moisture diagnostic probe wires which sit inside the filter and a "check engine" light comes on when water may occur. I had no warning lights, just a stall and rough idle at low rpm.

My dealer also recommended to run the Evinrude 2+4 additive to my fuel and I have done this with ALL my fuel religiously! Now... the 2+4 I use is the older dark brown formula, bought a case in '06 and until it's gone I'm not gonna waste it. The old fuel that I syphoned takes on the color of golden honey and I attribute that to the 2+4. The new 2+4 is a clear formula, I just bought a case of that too and will run that in my 40hp Etec and the 250 when the old stuff is used up

.

Considering the color of the old 2+4 made me wonder if that could be the source of the debris, due to separation/evaporation and such?

 

Good idea on cutting a small piece of hose too. The dealer installed a section of new USCG 1527 hose when they did the repower and I can access the connection from the stern port transom inspection cover.

 

I don't use my boat as many members here, and I haven't frequented the site as often, but it's good to know when a problem arises that more heads / thoughts are better than one. ;)

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As a follow-up.. I spoke with a fellow at RDS tank builders to find the dimensions of my 100 gallon tank. I also asked his thoughts of the possibility of the original installed hose degradation from ethanol fuel use,, he "felt" that the debris I was finding was NOT the from the hoses. (still gonna cut a small piece at the rear splice to satisfy my curiousity)

 

Anyway... my new WEMA-KUS sender arrived the other day, so before installing I decided to raise and lower the trailer tongue by floor jack to slosh fore and aft the remaining bit of fuel in the tank, then attempt to swab any dirt I could swab with a long heavy wire and cut up white tee shirt pieces through the sender hole. Due to a tank baffle located a couple inches ahead of the sender I could only work the swab rearward and sideways, but each piece of tee shirt came out with some fuel-moistened tar-like colored debris,, not completely covered with debris but I feel I made some progress in removing some of what very possibly has been in there since before I bought this boat.

 

I've installed a new filter, add some new fuel and hopefully not notice any further rough idle or stalling. :)

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Hope it works out!

 

People would be amazed at the residue that builds up in a fuel tank over time. Sludge, varnish from fuel evaporation, and now phase separated ethanol crud. I remove my fuel sender every 2 years to make sure what it is reading matches the amount of fuel in the tank and do a quick visual of the tank interior. Like you, I have also rigged up some contraptions from hell to wipe down the interior just to see what buildup is there. There are times I wondered if there was something "safe" we could put in a nearly empty tank (no more that 5 gallons), then trailer the boat over varying road conditions so it would slosh around and clean some of that crud out. Only problem for the back yard mechanic would be disposal of the cleanser after it was pumped out of the tank.

 

Kinda suprised the dealer's stance on the fuel filter. A 10 micron filter will flow plenty of fuel and still remove a lot of trash before it makes it to the on-board filter. That spin on filter will also have a bigger surface area to allow it to catch more trash before causing a fuel starvation issue. I run a 225 Ram Ficht with a Raycor fuel filter w/ clear plastic bowl. Filter is located next to the battery switch so I can see if there is any water or anything odd whenever turning the switch. Thought process is I will look at that filter more often than inspecting the engine mounted filter.

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If you look at my post, http://robaloboatowners.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=6339, you can see with the lid off where the fuel hoses go into the side behind the wire tunnel. Mine had a larger daimeter hose as a sheath or protector wedged into the passage hole. Great idea in theory, but absolutely impossible to change the fuel hose without removing the lid.

 

On another note, from experience, I would highly suggest you add a filter before the engine. Safety in numbers and outboards are too expensive to pass on a $10 filter twice a year. Just my opinion.

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