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joegrab

R242 - Too much water in the bilge

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I purchased a new Robalo R242 Aug 2015, on my 4th launch the bilge area flooded. We were catching bait fish 2 miles out of Port Canaveral. The seas were 2-3 feet, to keep the boat close to the channel marker I use reverse more than I should have, that’s my fault, lessons learned. After catching two dozen bait fish, we headed out and quickly noticed the R242 with a single Yamaha 300hp would not come up on plane. I opened the bilge access door and discovered more than 1 foot of water. The water level was at the top of the batteries on the R242. I looked over the side and no water was coming from the bilge. I quickly hit the manual bilge switch and water immediately started shooting out the bilge. As the bilge was pumping I checked the splashwell and it was full of water. It took a good 30 minutes for the water to empty. I reached down by the float switch and pulled out several pieces of debris (wire clippings and tie wrap ends). We (dealer and I) determined the new Robalo was delivered with loose access covers and a stuck float switch. A combination of the water coming into the splashwell, loose access covers leaking and stuck float switch caused the water level to rise to the point the spashwell was completely under water. I realize I am 100% at fault and a seasoned captain would have checked the access covers, bilge float, pump, etc. before heading out.

 

I have 2 concerns; I’m concerned of the damage caused by that amount of saltwater in a brand new Robalo R242 as the vacuum flush toilet pump complete seized and had to be replace by the dealer. My second concern is for other boat owners who are not aware of the potential hazard.

 

I have since learned this could be a problem with the stern livewell not being properly sealed.

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Shame there's not a simple test for the float switch. My auto bilge worked fine until I had the circuit breaker go bad on my R207 while in a rain storm. Luckily the CB was just for the auto bilge and the manual switch worked fine. Also got to find all the ways water gets into the bilge and stopped several of those.

 

Don't know about the 242, but the 207 has several things that, by design, drain into the bilge (drink holders, rear rod holders, under seat storage...). The dealer had assured me everything drained overboard. He just left out that some of it has to get overboard via the bilge pump.

 

There are several saltwater protection sprays (Corrosion-X, Salt-X, WD40, etc.) that might have helped before things got wet or immediately after you got the water out, but once things have dried I'm not sure they'd help. Dried salt is tough to get off. Of course, it wouldn't hurt to use them now. Just not sure how effective they'd be.

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After taking delivery of my 2014 R25 I noticed lots of wire clippings and debris in the bilge and behind the console when I removed the access pad and went about to remove everything with vacuums and by hand. I silicon greased all hatch plate washers and use spanner wrenches to tighten especially the transom access deck plates where the aft bilge pump is located. Every time I launch I test the bilge pumps and they should go off when I board from the aft since I wash down the boat after each use.

 

I hate it that all of the cup holders drain into the bilge but do like the overboard discharge for the fish boxes.

 

I use Yamashield and have hit everything that I can get to from the aft bilge to wiring posts hidden centerboard. The problem you may have in the future is that the salt water wicked into the wiring and that will cause premature connection failure but hit everything with yamashield hard and that should break up the salt.

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Thanks for sharing -I'll keep an eye on my R242 hatches..

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I cannot stress enough after several runs and even the next year to check the bilge area for wire clippings and other build debris as over time it always makes it aft. A season and a half I am STILL finding things around the float foot for my aft bilge and had to take a coat hanger straightened out to get crap out from the drain plug area.

 

Yamaha Shield will loosen up and take away salt deposits after you come in, the key is not to let it sit and dry.

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I cannot stress enough after several runs and even the next year to check the bilge area for wire clippings and other build debris as over time it always makes it aft. A season and a half I am STILL finding things around the float foot for my aft bilge and had to take a coat hanger straightened out to get crap out from the drain plug area.

 

Yamaha Shield will loosen up and take away salt deposits after you come in, the key is not to let it sit and dry.

 

 

"Yamaha Shield"? Never heard of it..

 

To remove salt, just wash with fresh water... On wire connections, dielectric grease or similar on connections will last forever.

Edited by Edge

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To remove salt use fresh water and saltaway. You can mix in small pump sprayer or get the hose end attachment. Once clean coat wire terminals with corrosion-X or similar products.

 

Be sure to check the underside of the rub rail and fill any gaps with 4200. I had a gap on my R240 where the rub rail ended at transom that was allowing water in.

No need to worry too much about the transom since it is ceramic filled with no wood.

 

I got small debris out of my boat for several years. Burned up 2 pumps due to float sticking from debris. Why they don't do a better job of cleaning up before they place the cap on baffles me. Check your bilge often especially after rough conditions that seem to shake stuff loose.

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Yama-Shield is a solvent that breaks up salt deposits and leaves a protective barrier. I have heard other guys use saltaway and swear by it as well but with a 5 year warranty on the 300 I use everything labeled Yamaha just in case there is a warranty issue. It is a personal decision that I use it.

 

All electrical connections other than the engine I use a phone company grease called No-Ox which is a grease to prevent oxidation. I have seen electrical connections that are 30+ years old in telephone offices down south that are as shiny now as they were 30 years ago. Sounds odd but it works.

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I found that it doesn't have to be new-boat-construction debris that gets into the bilge and chokes-out the pump/switch. Dock-Neighbor had a rat problem so he used rat poison to kill it (them?). At least one crawled down into some inaccessible places in my bilge and deteriorated - year and a half later and I'm still finding bits of hair and other 'unknown body parts' floating around in the bilge. First few times shall be left to ones imagination.

 

Lesson I learned is to NEVER assume a bilge has anything but water in it - check the switch and pump-screen often.

Edited by dogdad

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Figures you disappear for a while then come back talking about dead rats!

 

Good point, though. Also, any boat that may empty the fish boxes into the bilge can end up with all kinds of debris. Especially for trailered boats, plug up the garboard drain, half way fill the bilge with wash water and mix in some bleach, quick trip around the block to stir things up, then test your bilge pump. Substitute dish detergent instead of bleach, and this will remove the oily dirt that tends to collect in the bilge, too!

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Heh-heh-heh, that's funny Dan.

 

 

Been a bunch of downturns over the past year or so, but hoping to stay on top now. And hang out here more often!!

Edited by dogdad

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Please do. You always seemed to have an interesting twist to the subject being discussed, making things lighthearted for the rest of us to enjoy.

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