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Rubrail Restore?


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Anyone know of a good way to freshen up the old blue rub rail? There is little to no damage to it just a little dingy looking. I was thinking about trying Armorall or something but wanted to get some ideas. Any thought? Thanks.

 

Brad

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Pressure wash then your favorite rubber protectant! I personally like that aged, work look that compliments the older classics!

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I personally like that aged, work look that compliments the older classics!

 

I agree, which is why I want to keep it. I love the rope insert! Just wanted to clean it up a bit. I will try the pressure washer this weekend. Thanks.

 

Brad

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You can pull it out starting a foot from the stern turn it over and re install. Mix the 50/50 bleach spray it on and pressure wash and it will look like new (unless it was a factory boat and we already did it before LoL). SHHHHH :yahoo_think:

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  • 3 weeks later...

It was should be 3/4 inch but you can hit it with a bleach in a spray bottle mixed with a lil dawn degrease dish soap and saturate it . Hit it with a stiff hand brush and finally let i t set for about 2 beers. Then take the pressure washer to it . OK Now that thats done and clean lets start taking the rope out all the way to the

bow. Starting at the stern put it back in on the clean side . A LITTLE bit of Vaseline on the rubber makes the rope go back in. ( watch it guys we got that G rating)If you can get someone to run a 1 inch piece of PVC right in front of you and push it back into place to the bow.

Once that side is done do the other. Bad news now you have to clean this side like the other BUT it wont have any dock rash.

If you take it off it WILL NOT GO BACK ON all the way as it will shrink 2-3 feet. You can Tye on another piece of rope to it and using two vehicles to stretch it back out but only works 1/2 the time.

 

Either way good luck as I will be doing mine after the boat is ready just before painting.

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It was should be 3/4 inch but you can hit it with a bleach in a spray bottle mixed with a lil dawn degrease dish soap and saturate it . Hit it with a stiff hand brush and finally let i t set for about 2 beers. Then take the pressure washer to it . OK Now that thats done and clean lets start taking the rope out all the way to the

bow. Starting at the stern put it back in on the clean side . A LITTLE bit of Vaseline on the rubber makes the rope go back in. ( watch it guys we got that G rating)If you can get someone to run a 1 inch piece of PVC right in front of you and push it back into place to the bow.

Once that side is done do the other. Bad news now you have to clean this side like the other BUT it wont have any dock rash.

If you take it off it WILL NOT GO BACK ON all the way as it will shrink 2-3 feet. You can Tye on another piece of rope to it and using two vehicles to stretch it back out but only works 1/2 the time.

 

Either way good luck as I will be doing mine after the boat is ready just before painting.

 

Mr.Robalo

Thanks for the info and tip. The rope is so old there are actually sections that are missing. Plan on repairing tomorrow.

Bill

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If you are going to replace it get a piece of pipe/PVC that the rope will just go through.

 

Cut a 45* on one end.

 

Then run the new rope through it.

 

Put Vaseline on the angled end.

 

Next start at the transom leaving 6 inches hanging off the end of the rubber and force the tube in the rubber at a 45* angle as this spreads the rubber open and begin SLOWLY walking down the gunnel.

 

You need a helper feed the rope into the top of the pipe as you walk around the boat sliding the rope into the rubrail.

 

The hardest part is the bow due to the rubber wanting to push the pipe out as you round the bow section.

 

Once you turn the corner it's downhill after that just don't try to go to fast as if it pops out it is a bear to get going again.

 

Once you get it all the way around you can work on the ends.

 

Tape the end where you want to cut it and using a propane torch burn it quickly and have a spray bottle of water to stop it from charing too much and with a old knife (heated up with the torch) pat the ends as smooth as you can.

 

I will tell you to take care with this part as it will effect your whole job if the rope scorches to much.

 

 

Now go have a well deserved :beer:

 

Use the old end caps and use a NEW SHARP drill bit to go through the rope so it will not cause unraveling. You can heat the bit first but not to much just enough so it won't stick pulling it out.

 

YOUR DONE .

 

Hope this makes since if not let me know. B)

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If you can post a

Pic of the ends where it attaches as there were a few differnt ways the workers attached them . Also there is a piece of alum drilled and is where the mounting screws attach it. I have in the past Seen some (on warranty boats ) corrosion all along due to the differnt metals . Pick up a small wire wheel that will go between the rubber and reach the mounting hardware . A steel or brass wheel will work as I keep both on hAnd but like brass as it works good and doesn't leave sanding marks but goes away fairly fast compaired to steel but you don't n care as it will be hidden. You might not find any . Also he's a hand held Philips head screwdriver handy to tighten up the mounting screws . You can use a cordless driver but SET THE TORK SETTING so you don't ruin the heads and don't strip it out.

I figure your there and she is not getting any younger LoL but it won't hurt to tighten her up while your there.

Any questions just shout out.

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Sammy Joe:

Got the rub rail line installed this afternoon. Looks great. Ended up using the plastic thru hull fitting from the bilge pump which I replaced today to feed the line through. The thru hull fitting on the outside broke off. I was going to recommend tightening the rub rail screws as you go along because they do seem to loosen with age. I did not think of that until i got to the other side of the boat. A twenty minute job and a six pack of enjoyment after it was done. Got the boat back in the water this afternoon and look forward to the fall striper run. Thanks for all the feedback and encouragement. Will post a picture or two when I get a chance. The end terminations in the stern were stainless with two screws holding in place. Factory used tape to secure ends vice heating up the rope ends. I am sure that is why I lost the sten section of rope on the port side.

Thanks again

Bill

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I like it when a plan comes together . My pleasure helping. Thats what the forum is all about. Post a pic with a ROBALO tee to make it look even better , Will work for Tee shirts LOL

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  • 1 year later...

Were some of these 1 inch rope inserts or is my rope swollen? The opening is 3/4. My 190 is 1 1973. 3/4 seems too small when I saw it in store. Rubber is hard as heck but good.

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Willy G, I'm guessing if you could warm that rail up a bit it may be more pliable. I think a heat gun would be a to much but perhaps a blow dryer to soften that material a bit would help.

 

I purchased a new rub rail to reinstall on my 20' and was told to get the rail as warm as possible when installing. I was also told to put a come-a-long on it to keep it really stretched during the install. Does that sound necessary guys?

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Airbill, did you get the whole thing or just the rope? If you got the whole thing, where did you find the rubber part? My understanding is that it is necessary to stretch the rope first. It has become evident that I'll need to replace my rope since taking part of it out of the rubber part allowed it to contract enough to be about 8" short on each side. I'm thinking I'll probably just fasten one end to the truck and the other to a stout tree and put SOME strain on the rope to stretch it out. Pretty sure it will stay stretched long enough to install it on the boat.

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I purchased the whole thing, rub rail and black plastic insert for $170.00 for 50' from Marine Connection. The black plastic appears as though it would go in a lot easier. Mark, for what it worth, I have noticed the 1" thick swing rope hanging from an oak tree in our yard and the 3/4" rope railings on my kids tree fort both stretch noticably on their own when wet (no weight applied). As soon as they dry...they shrink right back up again. The amount the railing ropes drop over a 5' run is significant! You may want to wet then stretch. If you want a rub rail I can pick it up for you and drop it in CT on my commute.

 

Willy G, I have to qualify my response, I was referring to the rub rail itself not the insert.

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So, in other words, the channel that holds the rope on the original is the same as the channel that holds the plastic on the new one? What brand is it, Taco? I'm only asking because I want to take a look at the specs somewhere.

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The channel is the same but I have to check with Marine connection on the manufacturer. I will be there later this week and get back to you.

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Well hate to throw a wringer out there BUT :::: The old early 70's ropes were 7/8" and the only way to see if that is the size is to put a caliper on in several different areas and see . Read back a ways and I have a easier way to insert it back into the rubber . When we did it we put the rubber out in the sun for a few hours and it would be extremely playable. We used TACO for our rub-rails (prior to 1993. If needed you could soak it in a barrel with hot water to soften the problem you would have to work fast to get it on before it cool's. Hope that helps . :captain:

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