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R2160 rebuilding transom and looking for options outside of a bracket to better protect the stern from waves


AlienRocker

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Good evening, I'm a long time fan. Found this forum  awhile back when I came across a 19900 r2160 here in Miami. Because of the comments of many here especially 2-N-tow I decided to buy it. It's a great boat for what I'm hoping to do with it, sandbar, fishing, scuba and hopefully some crab pots too. Unfortunately due to circumstances I let it sit for longer than she should have but I'm finally putting in the time, money and love.

Was hoping I could ask everyone for their opinion, one of the members mentioned she's a perfect candidate for a bracket and closing up the transom. Mine is currently rotted and am looking to completely repair it. Currently the plan is with coosa board, stainless metal plates and fill empty cavities with A&B foam then after it's all fiberglassed up to add metal backing plates where the motor mounts on both sides. I'm waiting for a reply on how much on top of the 5,500 (which includes wet/dry sand and buff and wax the hull to make up for some of the fees) they would need to close it up, add a bracket, longer cables  and everything else. If it's too expensive and I'm thinking of adding splashguards that may or may not open outwards freely if i take on alot of water to allow it to flow out.

Or maybe have them fabricate some kind of enclosure for the motor well.

If I opt not to close it up how safe does everyone think it is when out drifting?

I appreciate everyone's patience with the long background. I plan on making the rebuild of this boat my hobby to hopefully and look forward to the work. Have a background on working on boats but mostly detailing and small repairs and switch outs of minor things onboard.

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Edited by AlienRocker
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Hi AlienRocker and welcome to the forum!

The 2160 is a tough boat (yes...kinda of partial to the 2160)!

If you enclose the transom and add a bracket:

1.  Go with a bracket that has the oversized tub like on one for twin motor installation.  This helps tremendously with floatation at rest.  Remember, you are moving the motor 30 inches further back and that will cause the back to sit lower in the water.  The oversized tub helps a  lot to overcome that. 

2.  Have your fiberglass man add knee braces on top of the existing stringers to increase the bearing surface and brace the transom more.  These older boats were not intended to be bracketed, so this little bit helps add more strength to overcome that bracket.

3.  While the transom is out, consider adding 1 or 2 rigging tubes under the floor running up to the helm.

4.  Batteries...if you can re-locate them to under one of the seats, that will help overcome some of the weight balance issues due to moving the motor back.

5.  Everything i can think of is covered here:

 

 

 

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Thank you for the attachment, that was one heck of a process you went through, came out looking fantastic. I am concerned to do something similar would end up costing me quite a bit. So far everyone is quoting around $5k to just redo the transom.

2-N-Tow if I don't close the transom how safe do you feel the boat is when out drifting in the ocean. Was thinking of maybe having them either enclose the motor well area somehow using the existing splahwall and adding to it or to just attach splashguards  to the transom and potentially have them install a backing plate for the splashguards while the transom is open for better support on strong waves.

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These boats are fine.  I did a lot of ocean fishing with mine prior to doing the transom job and never had a problem.  Only thing to be aware of is to keep the bow into any waves of questionable height and you will be good.  I did not have any mod prior to the transom job...just used the splash gate a few times in rougher conditions when it might have been needed.

If you go with any type of splash guard...just be sure to allow enough room for the motor to turn from stop to stop.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hope all is well  2-N-Tow, so ended up going with the splashguards mod. Was thinking of changing out the two top "Highwater" scuppers for the larger rectangular ones, I figured it might be a good idea since the splashguards wouldn't let the water flow out as quickly. Just worried by being 2" x 5.5" its too big and might affect the structure of the transom or I may be overthinking it.

Aslo considering changing the lower two scuppers that are below the water line into the ball scuppers to help keep it dryer in the splash well but maybe better to leave them open.

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Also I have a fitting right about the drain plug which I'm assuming is for the fish box but it came clogged up full of silicone (and the drain plug to which I'm going to fix) I just thought the fish box drainage would be above the water line not below.

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I would not be concerned about going to a larger scupper on the upper transom.  A good amount of the high water that gets in there would exit through the motor cutout on the transom.  The remaining  10-15 gallons that would be in there below the transom notch and above those 2 drains will drain relatively fast.  I kept the factory drains up until the day I cut the transom out.

I am not sure what that drain is that is plugged up with silicone as my 2160 did not have that. The in-floor fish box should drain out the bottom there the thru hull fitting is.  Have you followed the hose inside the bilge to see where it goes to?

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Hey yeah finally did. It's exactly like you said it's currently clogged with silicone but it is the outlet for the fishbox. Has what looks like a plastic marelon ball valve that works but I'll probably replace. I'll keep the scuppers all the same size.  I appreciate your opinion.

Saw someone either on here or somewhere else had repowered with twin engines. I love the idea of that since I had the dream of being able to take this boat to Bimini since I live in Miami. Done it before but on a twin engine 28ft and love the idea of having 2 engines in case one shuts down.

Got to talk with the guy rebuilding the transom if there is a way to make it so when I repower in the future I wouldn't have to redo the transom to fit twins. Had a guy recommend putting two small 90hp to reduce weight. thought something close to 125 each might be better.

Currently having trouble getting mine past 32mph with my 220 Johnson ocean runner 2 stroke. Not sure if the prop isn't the right pitch or what. I think I read an older post of yours saying you go way past that speed.

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I figured the fishbox outlet is on the transom so when underway I can open the ball valve and let it drain. Yours goes down straight to the bottom of the hull?

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Correct...mine drains thru the thru-hull fitting at the bottom of the box.  

I have a 2003 Evinrude 225 RAM Ficht.  With 25 gallons gas and 2 people, I can hit 50 mph @ 6,100 rpms. This is with a Michigan 19"  pitch (backup prop) and BRP Rebel 17" .  pitch. That Johnson should be maxing out at 5,900 - 6,000 rpms.  If not, check motor height first...with motor trimmed neutral, cavitation plate should be 1 to 1 1/2" above the bottom of the boat.  What prop are you running now?

Twin 90's are not going to work on this boat.  They are heavy!  My attitude is get the one motor running properly and keep it maintained.  If you have to have a second motor, find a 15 or 25 hp that could be mounted on a kicker bracket or transom next to the current motor.  Keep in mind this boat was designed with the idea of a 500-550 lb motor hanging on the transom.  4 strokes make them sit lower at rest due to that increase in weight of 50-75 lbs.  More weight back there will result in some changes in trim settings to get on plane when a few people are at the back of the boat and a little down on the tabs to get the bow down in choppy water.  Unfortunately, the 2160 does not have a good set-up for moving the batteries off the transom as that would help tremendously if we could move them to under the seats.

 

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Yeah I've been going through pretty much every post about the 2160 today after work just so I can try to learn as much as possible, saw you mention that as a great idea to reduce weight. So like your boat my current bottom scuppers are already below the water line so definitely worried about weight. The motor well doesn't get much water though so that's hopeful my foam isn't wet. I'm taking it out of the water next week to get the transom done so I'll check the cavitation plate then out of the water and when on plane.

As far as the prop I honestly don't know I saw you mention in another post about a "Rev (maybe Reb)-4 17" for a better hole shot. I think mines aluminum so I know I need to get a better one.

Adding a picture of the twin 2160 that I saw that had inspired my idea. 

The last one is my boat 🙂 and current project. Thinking of naming her "Broke But Afloat"

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My front deck is soft. Saw some of your oldest posts and I plan on redoing the deck and installing the same windlass setup you have. It would be a fantastic set-up for the sandbars here in Miami.

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Hey sorry to ask so many questions 2-N-Tow getting the transom repair starting next week. Did you get to see the photo of the other member with twin 120's. I'm assuming too heavy for our boat?

 

I did notice that my waterline actually comes up higher than I remembered at just a few inches below the top scuppers.

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Yeah... I don't think you would be happy with that extra weight sitting on the transom.  Those 120's weigh 370 each, give or take a few pounds, for a total of 740 lbs.  The 2003 225 Evinrude I have weighs in at 530, so you are hanging an additional 240 lbs back there.  To get an idea how that will affect floatation, get  a cooler that can hold 30 gallons of water and place at the transom and fill.  (1 gal water- 8.3 pounds).  Then you have to consider when the kids or a couple of you are fishing off the transom, that additional weight is going to make it sit low.

My suggestion is single motor and SeaTow or BoatUS.

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Copy that thank you. I'll keep her single and we'll maintained I appreciate it. What's the recommended max capacity of ppl on these things?

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I try to go with no more than 4 adults total, so figure 800 lbs.  Any more and i ask them to move forward when getting on plane or do not have everyone fishing off the transom at one time!

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Copy that. Yeah 4 is ideal, i figured 6 is ok for the sandbars, maybe 8 if i keep 2 in the cabin but only on a calm day and to the sandbar that's 10 min from the marina I'm at.

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  • 2 months later...

Hey 2-N-Tow I finally got the transom repaired. Replaced all the hardware,  used Coosa board and replaced the transom fishbox drain with a new marelon through hull fitting and hose so I can drain the fishbox while underway. I suppose I could also use it as a live well if I add an aerator just not sure it would be a good spot for it, what do you think? 

My main dilemma is once I add some wave blockers on the stern it seems there's not much space for a ladder on the stern so we'll see if I can find a more low profile one or find some other option. I included a sketch of where the wave wackers will be installed and an old photo of where the ladder use to be. It use to sit right on top of the trim tabs and the point of connection was right below the top rail of the transom where the wave blockers mounts will now be placed. 

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Edited by AlienRocker
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Looks good what you have accomplished! 

When using the fishbox as a live well, think about going with a battery operated areator.  I am a firm believer in the keep it simple principle.  I used to have a 20 gal tub for a livewell with a temporary water pickup tube and overflow pipe that went over the transom.  Used a bilge pump to flow water into the tank and it had heavy duty alligator clips that went to the battery.  Beauty of this was I could install or remove from the boat in 5 minutes and leave it at home if we did not need it.

Awesome transom picture with the Insta360.

How far onto the transom would the wave blocker go?  Any chance you could have the existing ladder mounts be part of the bolt on for the wave blocker?  I think that ladder set-up you already have is the best solution other than an Armstrong clip in ladder.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hope you had a great start to your new year.  A friend a mine a video of the transom while underway way with the 360 and it came out so great. He's a pro with that thing.

If I just use the aerator, you think I would have to leave the through in the open position so there's an exchange of water or just fill it once, close it and keep it aerated? Just paranoid of keeping something like that open.

As far as the transom I think the mounting hardware is just a couple of inches. I like the idea of somehow incorporating the ladder into that. I'll have to speak with the guy making it. Thank you so much for the idea. 

Just had sudden back surgery,  my herniated disk started pinching my never making it difficult to walk. I'm good now but sad news is I can't even use my boat now for the next 2 months . After everything I can't help but laugh. Gives me more time to prepare my tackle to finally take her fishing. Seems they have some great trolling motors now for bigger boats. Love the idea of putting one on the bow so I can get in skinny water for inshore fishing without an anchor and do the same for wreck fishing with the skyanchor setup.

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Darn...sorry to hear about the back.  Been there, done that...got the x-rays to prove it!  Two 8 inch rods and 14 screws in my neck.  Out of work 3 months...could hardly wait to get back on the boat!

You can open it will at anchor, but don't try running with it open as the forward motion of the boat will pull all the water out of the fish box.  As long as you don't overload it with bait, maybe every 10-15 minutes take a 5 gallon bucket and remove one bucket full and replace with another.  This will help keep the fish waste to a minimum.  Another thing that will help is a battery operated bubbler to keep replacing the oxygen in the bait well.  

I am with ya on the trolling motor.  Definitely need to find a way to incorporate one on my boat.  Makes fishing around structure so much easier than fighting the anchor line.

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  • 1 month later...

Thank you for the helpful advice. The doctor finally released me from restrictions but I'm still going to take it easy and focus on recovery so hopefully I can avoid more surgery in the future. I found a guy on YouTube with a great video of his installation on a 21 v hull which looks pretty heavy too since it's a similar setup with a pilot house enclosure. Main thing I would change is add lithium batteries to help reduce weight and increase power.  His channel is "Out on the reef" if you want to check it out. He used a Minn Kota brand trolling motor which did a great job holding position on a rough day for hours. Although I think I'd rather get one that self deploys and relocks so I never have to bother with the bow again which sounds which honestly sounds amazing.

Edited by AlienRocker
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2-N-Tow I tried looking for the post where you showed your redone bow with a windlass. Did you extend the railing to go around it just left it as is. I can see how it could protecting it if bumping into a wall or some large like that otherwise I don't really see the benefit for safety as Ideally I won't be up there that much and even then not a big deal.

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I did not change the railing.  The aluminum plate pulpit is a little un-protected, but I have not bumped anything hard enough to be an issue.  Having the windlass makes life so much easier when anchoring and even more so when pulling the anchor up!  I will never own another boat without one.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Oh wow that looks great what's the round dome shaped thing to the left of the windlass just an opening for all your wiring to run through? 

Edited by AlienRocker
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