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2120Tom's Achievements


Swabie (2/9)



  1. Thanks Dan. As I have been looking around the internet, I came across the West Marine sealant chart of best used products and I'm fairly certain this chart was in print back when I re-caulked, so now I'm also fairly certain that I used 4000 or 4200 as both have the "2 dot best" use for my application. I also read somewhere that IF a silicone seal was used prior,, a poly-sulfide sealant as 4000/4200, would not adhere well over silicone. So in trying to recall my earlier process as being "tiring" with the use of a razor knife/putty knife removal of old seal then donning latex gloves and rubbing/cleaning the area with acetone, I seem to recall it was silicone AND I thought I had all residue cleaned thoroughly.....but possibly I didn't get it all from the seams...and the two sealants counter-acted? I have no way of knowing if what I removed initially was factory seal or done by a previous owner, so this time maybe I'll just use GE exterior window silicone and see where that takes me.
  2. My memory seems to be failing me (CRS - and I didn't write it down) but I believe it was 3 or 4 summers ago I decided to re-caulk the cap and rubrail of my 2120. I do recall working my butt off from a step ladder while the boats on the trailer, cleaning the old and prepping for the new caulking. I'm pretty sure I used 3m 4200........but it is disintegrating BADLY, soft and chalky, it rubs off with your finger and sticks to anything it contacts making a mess. I would like to believe that 3m products would perform better and last longer. I also wonder, question, if the StarBrite waterproofing sealant I applied to the mooring cover a year or so after caulking isn't washing away in the rain and breaking down the caulk? Seems some areas of the underside of the rubrail caulk isn't soft at all compared to the upper areas with more direct runoff contact from the cover,, and then I'll find areas of soft, chalky sealant up at the bow underside rubrail where the cover doesn't cover at all? a real puzzler. Appreciate any and all thoughts and if there's better caulk product(s) for use. Thanks
  3. As a follow-up.. I spoke with a fellow at RDS tank builders to find the dimensions of my 100 gallon tank. I also asked his thoughts of the possibility of the original installed hose degradation from ethanol fuel use,, he "felt" that the debris I was finding was NOT the from the hoses. (still gonna cut a small piece at the rear splice to satisfy my curiousity) Anyway... my new WEMA-KUS sender arrived the other day, so before installing I decided to raise and lower the trailer tongue by floor jack to slosh fore and aft the remaining bit of fuel in the tank, then attempt to swab any dirt I could swab with a long heavy wire and cut up white tee shirt pieces through the sender hole. Due to a tank baffle located a couple inches ahead of the sender I could only work the swab rearward and sideways, but each piece of tee shirt came out with some fuel-moistened tar-like colored debris,, not completely covered with debris but I feel I made some progress in removing some of what very possibly has been in there since before I bought this boat. I've installed a new filter, add some new fuel and hopefully not notice any further rough idle or stalling.
  4. Thank You Dan. It was recommended to me by the Etec dealer NOT to install another filter, claims it not needed, and I have to somewhat agree so long as the engine filter is functioning as it should. The Etec filter mount bracket has moisture diagnostic probe wires which sit inside the filter and a "check engine" light comes on when water may occur. I had no warning lights, just a stall and rough idle at low rpm. My dealer also recommended to run the Evinrude 2+4 additive to my fuel and I have done this with ALL my fuel religiously! Now... the 2+4 I use is the older dark brown formula, bought a case in '06 and until it's gone I'm not gonna waste it. The old fuel that I syphoned takes on the color of golden honey and I attribute that to the 2+4. The new 2+4 is a clear formula, I just bought a case of that too and will run that in my 40hp Etec and the 250 when the old stuff is used up . Considering the color of the old 2+4 made me wonder if that could be the source of the debris, due to separation/evaporation and such? Good idea on cutting a small piece of hose too. The dealer installed a section of new USCG 1527 hose when they did the repower and I can access the connection from the stern port transom inspection cover. I don't use my boat as many members here, and I haven't frequented the site as often, but it's good to know when a problem arises that more heads / thoughts are better than one.
  5. Wondering if anyone has had success replacing their original fuel line from tank to motor ? without removal of the coffin lid ? as in working below deck through the inspection plate hole ? attaching new hose to old and pulling it through in either direction? I can see the hose using flashlight and mirror with the under helm inspection cover off. It is secured on the port side coffin with 3 rubber lined retainer clips spaced out, the hose appears to be loose in the clips, but I lose sight of where it goes at the back of the coffin. ANY and all thoughts are appreciated. Thanks Here's why I ask.....Recently my 250 Etec stalled, then ran rough after starting in the morning,, first time it's ever done this in it's 280 hour life. It seemed to run fine once I got the rpms' up and powered me back to the marina at normal cruise speeds and onto the trailer for the road home. Once I got back home, decided to pull the under cowl filter for replacement. What came out of it wasn't pretty! Poured the gas contents into a clear plastic tub, out came literally thousands of fine particles of what appeared to be rust,, filled the filter again with fresh fuel, sloshed it around and dumped again....more of the same, clouding the fuel so much that it couldn't be seen through until the particles settled. Once settled you could see some bits of aluminum mixed in with the brown sediment, which I would expect from an aluminum tank, an RDS 100gal. built and installed in '94. I transferred most of the dirty fuel to a glass jar allowing a slight amount to remain in the tub, rubbed it between my fingers and it felt gritty, put a small magnet to it and it wouldn't cling,, so it's not rust. (don't know how rust would come from an aluminum tank anyway) My next thought was hoses? Running ethanol fuel, I wondered if the insides of the hoses were hardening and disintegrating to the point of feeling like grit? I syphoned off the remaining tank fuel that would syphon out through the motor primer bulb/hose, about 27 gallons and the more that syphoned the less grit I found, so that's encouraging. My next attempt is to syphon out whatever I can using a bulb and hose pushed to the rear of the tank through the sender hole atop the tank. I've only owned this boat 12 years and I've been diligent as to filtering my fuel,, can't speak for the other owner, so the debris could just be accumulated dirt from his source of fueling....? Sorry for being long,, but I try to be thorough in my descriptive writing. Again, Thanks for any thoughts.
  6. Haven't been around the site as much as I once did. I've owned my '94 2120 going on 12 years. In response to the fellow above, my boat floats a bit bow heavy also, just figured it was the nature of the beast. As I recall, the manual lists dry weight as 3400lbs, add a 500+lb motor, 7lb per gallon for fuel, dual batteries and a bit of gear and these boats are a LOAD ! but that's also a plus for running great in rough seas.....not so much for towing. Last spring I too wondered if I might have wet foam so I towed my rig onto a scale at a local stone yard, unhooked the truck and went inside the booth...5560lbs. My trailer weight is 925, as stated on the registration, had about a half tank of fuel, so after some quick math in my head I felt more comfortable that the boat is right in the ball park as far as what it should weigh. Hoping all you fellows figure out your problems.
  7. Time for a change,,, my needs are changing with grandkids and gear hauling, weather protection also becoming a "must" and ramping/towing the boat isn't getting any easier as I'm not getting any younger. I purchased in summer 2005 this complete 1994 outfit, with 200 Merc and Eagle trailer that "was" only used for storage. Repowered with the ETEC the following spring. I primarily use this boat for fishing Lake Erie and a trip to Georgian Bay Canada each year. Boat was well taken care of before I got it and since also, very solid. Motor has less than 250 hours on the meter and the largest percentage of those are trolling for Erie walleye and Canada salmon. There was a "hiccup" in sept '08 when the motor blew (lost one cylinder) @ 109 hours, it was dealer/factory replaced with a '09 totally new top end power-head and I've had no issue since.....runs fantastic. Not noticing many of these older boats advertised around the country doesn't allow one to get a handle on what a fair market price would be,, but hoping to recoup some of the repower cost...... I'm thinking....? $25,000. Please direct any interest to tom5259@yahoo.com and I will answer any questions to your email address.
  8. Guess when ya got the $$$$$$ you can get your Verados in what ever color you like...first white ones I've ever seen. Being a "buckeye" also, I've been to PIB a few times and as IcutMetal claims,, it does not disappoint! As mentioned, and shown, the scenery is exqisite be it land or water and I recall on occasion, when the college crowds invade, shows of "toplessness" at some of the watering holes is not out of the question! Good times for sure. I may be 60 now but still young at heart and "I'm gonna look if they're gonna show 'em". Oh the memories. Haven't been there in many years, sold my Formula 242 in '03 and was before then I last visited. Don't fish the western basin anymore so I just don't get out that way, maybe once my wife retires we'll start taking some jaunts, we always had fun there. Great pics, thanks for posting.
  9. I trailer my '94 2120, and at highway speeds I get a whopping 9/10mpg out of a newer GMC full size.....so I guess it comes down to how often you're wanting to use the boat and how much $ you have to spend. I make a couple tow trips a season into Canada (400 miles+ each way) and I read that fuel prices were right around $1.30 per LITER !! You need to take into consideration added fuel costs, ramp fees and trailer maintainance as compared to dockage fees, it's all pretty pricey nowdays. I believe there are a couple advantages to towing when you need fuel for the boat as marina fuel prices are always higher than on the road,, you don't need bottom paint which saves cost/labor and gives a bit better speed,, and the boat is always near-by giving some piece of mind knowing that what you left on the boat "should" be there the next time you need it. (I've heard horror stories of guys getting to their boat at the marina and finding expensive gear missing...and that could happen anywhere nowdays also,, but probably less likely when the boat's near-by, like in your driveway as mine is.) Good luck with what ever you decide, and good fishing.
  10. Do any other CC owners trailer their boats covered to and from the water at highway speeds ? If so, got any pics of your covers. I'm hoping to see some covers that are tailored to fit closely around the cc, windshield and seats. My(former)canvas person can't seem to make a cover for my 2120 that is capable of towing through the air without billowing out against the windshield to both gunwhales and acting like a sail giving me less than 10mpg(2011 GMC Sierra extcab), and it has tore out some screw in snaps from the fiberglass from the excessive material flapping in the wind. I had a long and happy history with this fellow with my previous three standard hull style boatcovers. But now it's over between us due to his in-action and non-caring (don't need your business anymore) attitude. I must add that this cover is fine as a mooring/setting still on the trailer cover. If any of you have some pics that may help me show the next canvas shop what I'm wanting and would care to send to my email, tmenning@neo.rr.com please do so.....Thank You. Tom
  11. Storm Chaser,, I'm turning the 14 1/2 by 19 Cyclone 4 blade which my dealer recommended and I've been quite happy with it. With a half load of fuel and one other person in the boat I have no problem hitting mid 50's mph on good water and the proper trim. Tach reads 5500/5600. The mph speed was on the speedometer, which actually surprised me......I've never checked it on GPS. (may be dissappointed) I do enjoy hot rodding, but, the vast majority of what my hourmeter shows is trolling time,, since I fish the great lakes and that's how we catch 'em.
  12. The black membrane of my scuppers on my '94 2120 gives off a "grease like" black film that is a real pain to clean off of anything it gets on..hands and fiberglass mainly. I've removed them before and cleaned them with soap and water, but they go back to the filthy condition in no time. Can these membranes be purchased new somewhere ? Or would I be better off installing new ball types ? Thanks for any replies.
  13. I don't lurk here as I once used to,, so I'm just now reading this thread and hope I can shed some advice. I repowered my '94 2120 in early '06 with a 250 E tec. Made the stern sit a bit lower than did the old Merc 200, but not that it's taking on water while trolling in normal seas. Now,, if I drop off of plane real quick...oh yeah the water comes over the transom,,, but it probably would've done it with the Merc also, just never tried it with the Merc. If you're reading this and haven't already bought a repower......most 4 strokes are gonna be 100lbs. plus heavier than the Etec.
  14. sorry forgot to mention year...1994 workarounds ???? not familiar with that term. do you mean the inspection cover plates for the bilge ? if they did leak some water, why would the water be turning tea colored so quickly ? to Gary,,, if I were running in rough seas I would consider your thought, but that's not the case here. thanks for the possibility though. and thanks to any and all other replies.
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