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Robalo Boating Forum


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About BradleyD

  • Birthday 10/16/1981

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    Mobile, Al
  • Interests
    Candle lit dinners and long walks on the beach...wait wrong internet profile! Fishing, hunting, and of course various other projects. <br /><br />I also do custom aluminum fabrication for small sportfishing components so if you need something hit me up!

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  1. Some Lowe's sells them as well and at a lower cost than West Marine. I've used them and their switches with no problems.
  2. I like the idea of a smaller console. Robalo's are not bad but I think a lot of center consoles could benefit from a smaller console, as long as it had appropriate access. I also love the idea of a tower, but maybe I'm a little partial.
  3. Dan's right. Any type of large hardware (outriggers, radar, etc.) requires backing plates unless the hard top itself is beafy, which in turn requires a beafy frame. Regulator center console hard tops come to mind for stuff like this and two grown men will leave their manhood laying on the floor after having to handle one. I would not be afraid to put a thin hard top on a good canvas frame top and if you are already doing glass work it wouldn't be a whole lot more work. Just be sure to caulk the seam between the frame and the hard top will tend to rattle or squeak. Post some pictures of the frame and I can give you a good idea if it will hold. As for building the glass hard top, Dan and others can give better ideas of how to lay up a strong and light top for I'm still in the glass learning curve myself. And by the way...she's a diamond in the rough. After a good bath things the task will look completely different and can end up one fine boat. Brad
  4. I'm curious as well. I've looked at this thread several times and have just now noticed his costs. A beautiful boat like that for under $1,300 Can't beat that with a stick! Brad
  5. I agree, which is why I want to keep it. I love the rope insert! Just wanted to clean it up a bit. I will try the pressure washer this weekend. Thanks. Brad
  6. Anyone know of a good way to freshen up the old blue rub rail? There is little to no damage to it just a little dingy looking. I was thinking about trying Armorall or something but wanted to get some ideas. Any thought? Thanks. Brad
  7. The best way to describe the 2520 is simply a fishing machine and wish I still had mine. It is an awesome boat. As for removing the top cap...I could not imagine the amount of work required to get that thing off! I removed less than 2' of the top cap from my 2160 to repair the transom from the inside and the adhesion of the foam puts a death grip on the boat like you wouldn't believe. I had to remove several pieces at a time just to get it out. Someone may have a way to do but if they do I wish they would have told me If you dig into the boat a little you will find that may not be necessary for the amount of glass in those things were What's wrong with the boat now? How can you make a post like this without showing us pictures ...damn thinking about this makes me wish I never sold mine... Brad
  8. Well I wouldn't say I DO have it worked out...but I THINK I have it worked out When you say put a wedge on the ball scuppers, do you mean make the scupper angle down off of the transom? I have a couple sitting around still in the package that I had planned on using but don't think they will be enough alone, definitely not big enough to support a 2" hole. I will have to check this evening. Do you know who sells them that large? They do work too good not to use them. Thanks. Brad
  9. Mr. R, no criticism taken. But yes I did spend a good while staring and measuring for these things. I used a straight edge to transfer a mark to the inside of the transom in reference to the existing floor and put the new floor section below that mark in the back. This created a slight slope to the future scuppers. It's not a whole lot but I believe it will be enough to drain. Coincidentally, dropping it down cleared where the old motor mounts were (I could still see the old motor mount holes on the back of the transom). If all was figured correctly I should end up ok. As for the rigging, I will use all of the old areas for rigging locations. I did not get rid of the battery boxes and all of the old rigging locations are still inside of the boxes. I want to move the batteries under the step down area going into the cabin. I have measured and can make them work sitting up on a bracket that I will build. I may have to move the step up a couple inches, shaving it off of the door but it will not be much. This should move a little bit of weight off the transom and down a bit. This will free up the boxes for an oil tank and misc storage. Thanks for the insight and glad you're paying that much attention!
  10. It's been too long since an update but progress is creeping along...just got to get that work and life stuff out of the way so I can work on the boat Wahegul...I like the idea of eliminating the splashwell so I went that route. Got most of it glassed in along with the large "patches" on the sides of the battery boxes. So far everything seems like it will come out looking good. Still need to glass the cut line up the gunnels and the top cap pieces. I'm glad you suggested it...it probably will need them. I also started to demo the old fuel tank. I plan on reusing the baffles and pickup tubes but there are places in the outer shell that just won't cut it. Unfortionately due to the oil spill some plans have changed for it as well. It really won't be rigged out to fish for the boat will only see rivers for a little while I will probably go light on the plumbing, electronics, etc. But first I've got to get some paint on the thing! Brad
  11. To get a good fillet make sure you have a good sharp knife and run it down the back bone of the fish...oops wrong fillet It's hard to tell from the picture but it looks like the pieces were not being held in with anything to keep them from moving. If you can secure the part then it is pretty easy to make a fillet because if the part moves just a little it will ruin the fillet. Once secured, lay some thickened resin (thick enough that it will not sag or run) in the corners and run over it with a narrow spreader or putty knife. The smaller the edge on the spreader the smaller the radius. Some people use other methods that work just as well or better. Hope this helps. Brad
  12. You will almost always find some things you didn't excpect...even on most nearly new boats. But don't let some unexpected things dissapoint you...when it's done it will be as good or better than new. Post up some pics and there are knowledgable people here that will give sound advise on what to do.
  13. Is that the boat that was for sale on ebay out of Ms? If so the gears turned in my head when I saw it on there. Good look with it...it should make for a fishing machine!
  14. Is she rated for a 225? http://cgi.ebay.com/JOHNSON-OCEAN-RUNNER-O...=item23075b5520 This is when a large magnet is your best friend! Looking great Mr. R...keep up the good work. By the way...where did you get the model
  15. I've been anticipating this restoration. It's awesome to see a boat restored that has such history. As far as the fuel situation...could you put a fuel bladder in the original tank? I don't know how the tank is set up so not sure if it would work but just thinking "out loud". Good luck on the restore! She will be that much better when you're finished. Brad
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