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Shawn

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    1996 Robalo 2140 WA cuddy

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  1. I had it custom made by a local manufacturer who specializes in marine applications up here in Port Alberni BC. I love that it has that piece that goes down the back of the transom and all of the motor mounting bolts go through it. It acts a bit like a washer and allows the motor to sit perfectly flush to transom while providing some structural support as well.
  2. Thanks man! The weather is starting to improve up here and I'm getting more and more excited to get on the water!!
  3. I've repowered and been running it for a while now (65hrs). I love it!!!! I'm usually running heavy with fuel and gear, but even when heavy, pop out of the hole in 5 seconds or less, cruise at 3900rpm at about 28mph. On half to 2/3 a tank of fuel got up on place easily with 7 people on board! The V8 just has so much torque and feels like it is running easy when out cruising. I haven't tried for a true top speed with minimal fuel, perfect glassy conditions etc, but with all variables being average to heavy, can get about 5500RPM and 46mph.
  4. I did the fuel tank replacement - had a local aluminum manufacturer make me a new custom tank using the original plastic one as a template. Even made it a couple inches longer towards the front for a little increased capacity. 121 gallons now. I messed up the bonding and grounding while I had the floor off, so I had to get help to correct all that - which turned into a full re-wire... different story but I have a lot less to worry about now!
  5. Been reviving my 1996 2140 WA, hope you enjoy the pics! new 2020 merc 15hp, EFI, high thrust with new alum bracket, remote start, controls trim and steering new 2021 merc 250hp 4 stroke V8, controls, gauges, steering new alum transom trim piece new fuel system - 460L tank (just over 121 gallons) some new canvas new lowrance and high power transducer 2 new batteries last year full rewire this past winter including new dash, sub panels, 100% new wiring 100% new stainless steel thru hulls including shut off valves (was done with rewire for proper grounding and bonding system, and fresh start with no corrosion)
  6. Thank you! I knew about grounds and anodes, but just learned what bonding is.
  7. hey Conrad, ya this is helpful for me now! haha my nylon is gone, pretty rough seat action these days. Looks like there are no more replacement parts - just go with a new seat mount? Did you find a good match?
  8. hey, I see I'm several years late on this, but just wanted to add that I also mounted a 15hp kicker on my 1996 2140. I went with a 2020 merc EFI 4 stroke plumbed into the main fuel tank. I had a local marine fabricator make up a bracket for me and went with the Eze-steer system. Also opted for the remote ignition and controls, so when I pull up to the fishing spot, I just lower the kicker, fire it up, kill the main and I'm trolling! Kicker is on starboard side. With that kicker and the main was a 2006 F225 yamaha I did find the boat was sitting way too low in the water. I will be repowering with a 2021 merc 250 4 stroke in the next few weeks and it is 100lbs lighter than that yamaha was, so I'm optimistic that I'll be sitting a little higher.
  9. Hey, quick update. I'm getting some aluminum work done before hanging the new motor. That transom trim plastic piece is basically shattered so I'm getting it replaced with an aluminum piece. Modifying it to include a "beaver tail" piece that will come down the back of the transom in the same shape and size as a motor mount. The other modification is that it will wrap around the top of the bottom of the transom and come down the front side of the transom so that the top mounting bolts will be squeezing aluminum on both sides. This piece with mods should have both a water proofing and structural effect. I'm also getting a new aluminum gas tank fabricated, so I currently have the floor off. While that's off I'm going to re-do basically everything under there except the live well stuff, as I just use them as storage. But I'll do new fuel hoses and wires to the sending unit etc. There was one green wire that went from a junction near the fwd bilge thru hull, under the floor across to the port side and disappears into the foam by the thru hull for the live well on the port side. I can't imagine what that wire is for. My boat has no head and no holding tank on that side - anyone know what that wire might be up to? Anyways, once these 2 jobs are done I'll be able to put the new merc on there and start breaking it in! I'll share some pics and numbers later on!
  10. Hey, I read this and tried searching many times with various combinations of words and can't find a good thread about replacing the fuel tank on a 1996 2140. If one exists can you help me find it? If not then can we re-visit this topic on this thread please? I need to replace mine and my first question is how do I know what new tank to order? I can't even find any official parts list for the boat to make sure I get the correct tank on order. I feel like knowing the correct tank as per original Robalo design is better than me opening up the floor and measuring myself. Craig, did you end up replacing yours? - any advice? Thanks guys
  11. Hey guys, Thanks for the comments, I'm a week or two away from re-powering with one of the new 2021 mercury 4 stroke 250s! This engine is close to 100lbs lighter than the 2006 F225 I'm removing, and significantly more powerful! Very excited for how my boat will perform after this re-powering!
  12. Hey guys, I have a 1996 Robalo 2140 that has a 2006 yamaha F225 4 stroke on it. I bought it last September with 1550 hours on it and had it inspected before purchase. Then after purchase brought it in for a 500 hour service. All good, no issues, nicely serviced prior to my use. I used it for 97 hours and it's now cooked due to internal block and cylinder head corrosion, hole in the exhaust port, water mixing with engine oil, oil sump corrosion, low water pressure, oil pump leak. Super disappointed, especially because since purchase I've already dumped more than 12k into it: trailer overhaul, new kicker, new lowrance, new canvas, so I wasn't really wanting to have to buy a new main motor, but here we are. I'll stop griping and get to my questions: 1. The transom decal is so faded I can't read it - I think the max HP rating is 225hp - does anyone know for sure the max hp rating for this hull? 2. It might have been due to poor engine performance, but this 225 felt like the minimum HP I'd want - I had to go down to a 15 1/4" x 15p prop just to get on plane nicely and see the correct WOT RPM (5800), but even that still had to cruise at 4800RPM just to maintain 27mph and stay on plane. I feel like the motor was working way too hard all the time, so I'd like to go with a 300HP suzuki, but I'm worried about exceeding the rating for a few reasons: torquing the transom apart over time, voiding my insurance policy, too much weight. - any advice? 3. I'm thinking that the 225hp motors that were new back in 1996 are very different than motors now - I feel like the 2 stroke 225 was very high torque compared to a 2006 4 stroke 225, so torque wise I feel like I could go up in hp - thoughts? 4. Weight wise I can reasonably compare weights of the originally recommended 1996 merc 225 offshore vs the 2006 yamaha F225 that is currently on it vs a new generation 4 stroke in the 225 - 300 hp range - any considerations I should be aware of? Thanks guys
  13. Asboats2002, huge thanks for all that! One correction is that I'm running a 4 stroke F225 (2006). You definitely mentioned a few things that I had never heard of, so very valuable for me to read. I'll play with the prop selector and talk to the Yamaha dealer some more. Hoping to get a chance to try things out this weekend if the weather is nice. Conrad, thank you for your comments as well. I had a look at my motor height and it's also at the highest setting and looks appropriate.
  14. Hey guys, I have a 1996 2140, single engine 2006 yamaha 225. I'm currently running a solas 15.5" 17P 3 blade prop. I don't think I'm propped right. In order to cruise at 25-29mph I have to run at about 4600-4800 RPM. Any slower than 25mph she starts sagging like she's starting to come off plane, which means to cruise at all I have to run like 4700Rpm and travel at about 28MPH. Then when I punch it I max out at 5100RPM and like 31-33mph. And the other weekend when I was fully loaded with fuel and gear for a long weekend it took me a solid minute to get up on plane! So my hole shot sucks, my top end speed and RPM sucks and I feel like I'm working the motor too hard when just cruising around from spot to spot. The first adjustment I was thinking of trying was similar diameter, but go down to a 15P to increase the rpm and tap into a better horse power range. I feel like this would improve the hole shot for sure, maybe help the cruising, and unknown effect to top end performance. Does this sounds right or am I way off in these assumptions? I'd say my priority is to be able to cruise long distance at a better RPM range with better fuel economy since I live way up an inlet and tend to run an hour or more to get to the mouth of the inlet where some of my fav spots are. Second priority is to improve the hole shot. Last priority, but would be nice, would be to be able to perform better at top end - higher RPM resulting in a faster top end speed. So for my second try I'm thinking of staying at 17P, but going down to 14 3/4" diameter (3/4" reduction). I feel like with this one I'd be biting less water, so I could still get better horsepower for better hole shot, but keep the higher pitch to keep up the cruising and top end speed. Any prop gurus out there able to advise me? Ultimately, I'm lucky that the local Yammy dealer is going to let me trial some props to figure it out. You guys have any experience with the solas quality level vs the salt water 2 series? Essentially the $600 prop vs the $1200 prop (CAD).
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