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About Hazzley

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    First Mate

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  1. Thanks for the quick reply and yes, I will make sure the PVC is well supported.
  2. Thanks for sharing the pics @Retainer !!! Can I ask what is generally used for fixing PVC pipework together: 4200, 5200, Fusion Single Step or some other alchemy?
  3. Quick update: I’m still working on it and will post some new pics soon!!
  4. Nice boat Craig! I am hoping to get my boat in the water very soon, if I can get finished up. The pipe doesn't go anywhere, it just has a piece the same length sticking through the other side of the transom. I can't imagine the deck could fill up that high and if it did, I would surely be underwater anyway!
  5. I hadn’t even noticed the old engine mounts still in place in “the slot” below deck until you mentioned them! And I also have the drain hole going into the back of the transom that you have (about 7” from the bottom of the hull) but mine has since been filled in from the outside, when the new transom was put in. It is nice that I still have some of the original patterned deck and would love to preserve this somehow but I feel that may be a massive challenge to transition that into the new deck?!
  6. As I mentioned before, my transom has been replaced some time ago and is thankfully rock solid. I wanted to ask the purpose of the protruding pipe work in the pic below that runs through the transom close to the top? Seems way too high to be for drainage. You can see where the deck is by the position of the scuppers, about 1/4 of the way up the transom. These are identical to Ken’s.
  7. On my boat, there is a drain hole at the bottom of the space (below deck) and this runs vertically down about 6” to exit the garboard drain. I did wonder about the internal structure of the vertical “cavity” that leads down to the drain hole (about 1.5” across) as it does not appear to lined with anything other than foam! The only way that water could get back into the bilge area would be if the entire space directly below the slot filled with water as it would then run back along the broken rigging tube and empty into the gas tank area and into the foam behind the stringers. This is
  8. Thanks for the info! When I took my deck up, I could see that this same slot curves round (below deck) on the starboard side and feeds into a rigging tray that runs diagonally over the gas tank, all the way up under the console. Now I have no idea if this was an original factory install but I am going to be utilising this route for the motor cables, running from the console through some PVC pipe. I still intend to cover the slot some way or other and also the other smaller slot on the starboard side, as this would otherwise allow water to pour in below deck, due to some question
  9. Spaghetti Junction!!! As we have near identical boats I wanted to share the pic below of my transom drain hole, which has a centre of just 1” from the bottom of the boat. As the transom has been re-done at some point, I have no way of knowing where it was originally but thought I would share anyway.
  10. Thanks. So I should sand back the CSM to as smooth a surface as possible, then scuff with 60 grit before applying the faring compound, then sand that smooth again before the deck paint? Sorry, it feels ridiculous asking these question but I want to get it right.
  11. p.s. as I have my deck up already, I will be (re)installing a new bilge pump to drain the hull as otherwise I have the same problem that you have with the hull draining into the live well and vice versa, when the plug is out. Sounds like you have some fantastic fishing grounds up there.... as do we in Tampa Bay and I can't wait to get at them!! As you said, after all.... that is why we have these boats!!
  12. Pair of helm chairs below that I picked up this week to replace the old leaning post that is falling apart.
  13. Thanks for sharing those great photos... I really love the look of these old boats!!! Looks like I have still have the original deck at the back of the boat as mine looks exactly the same as yours with the diamond pattern. However, where the tank was replaced some time ago, the owner did not do a very good job with the new deck and that is where the problems started. That and the holes they drilled straight through the rigging, which allowed water to run back behind the stringers! So do you believe the two rectangle holes at the transom are original features? Seems odd that so much w
  14. Sorry.... missed the reply on this! I think I will try to keep mine as simple as possible and just sand the CSM, apply the marine filler as prescribed then paint. Should I cover the entire deck with a thin layer of filler before sanding? I also have to think about the best way to fill in the existing holes: the large rectangle cut out in the motor well (5" x 36") and the other slightly smaller hole to the side where the cables exited from below deck (3" x 12"). Unfortunately, they are not even surfaces which makes it a little tricky and I cannot get access to underneath, other than throug
  15. Ken, thanks for stopping by this thread! I have had a look at your boat and it is almost identical to mine, so the age must be similar. I was told mine was 1970 but I have no way of verifying that since I am facing the same issues as you, with no ID on the boat or title. I am familiar with Boatworks Today and Andy runs a really good channel on YouTube but I have to say that Dan (2-N-TOW) has been incredible for me personally. No doubt he will read this so I will try to spare his blushes, but his knowledge, experience and patience are the main reasons why I have been able to progress with
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