Jump to content
Robalo Boating Forum

Hazzley

Members
  • Content Count

    57
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About Hazzley

  • Rank
    Deck Hand

Recent Profile Visitors

36 profile views
  1. It looks worse than it is and this forum, especially 2-N-TOW, has been incredibly supportive with what may otherwise be a very daunting project. Rest assured, these guys have all "been there and done that" at some point or other and can talk you through everything you may encounter!
  2. As I get closer to being able to put the new deck in, I wanted to ask about which way the deck joint should run. Given that I won't find a single sheet of marine ply to cover the entire area, I will need to use two separate pieces with a center joint either north to south or east to west across the deck. Is there a preference in terms of maximum strength? I am clearly overthinking the routing for the cables and fuel lines!! What happens with the cables (hydraulic, harness etc. when they exit your PVC tube? Do they just route under the gunwale and into the engine "loose" or is there some neater way of "hiding" them before they enter the engine? On my boat there is a 3' cut out directly in front of the transom / under the outboard that leads under the deck and into the old rigging tube. The cables probably ran through here and along the rigging tube, either into the tank or back to the helm. I was thinking of using this exit for the engine cables, when they come through the PVC tubing but it still leaves a large area for water to get back in below deck again and I don't know whether to close it off completely and use another route or try to modify it somehow to make it watertight. I just can't figure this last part out. Sorry if I am making you repeat yourself. If you have time to post a pic or can direct me to a thread that shows what happens between the top of your PVC tube and the motor, that might help?
  3. Welcome here any time.... I will even take you out on my boat when I finally get it all back together!!! I am in St Petersburg and the boat ramp is a stone's throw from my house. Apparently, there are some great fishing grounds here, although I only recently arrived from the UK and have not managed to get out yet. What a superb job on that PVC pipe!!! I will do my best but I seem to have so much cabling and fuel lines to route through it, I will most likely need two separate tubes. Is that just your fuel line that runs through there? If yes, where / how do the hydraulics and power cables run from the console to the motor etc.?
  4. Was the boat originally designed for the deck to sit on the stringers for support? It doesn't and is about 2 inches above the stringers. I just started thinking about how the centre of the deck should be properly supported and was thinking about laying some 2 x 4 across the stringers? Someone suggested adding a bulkhead but for the most part (above the tank) there will be a gap of around 2 inches. Is the plywood and glass deck strong enough to support itself or should there be some structure below deck and over the top of the gas tank?
  5. You need to move to Florida 🙂
  6. When you get time, could you post the picture so I can see....... thanks.
  7. Dug half the foam out on the starboard side and it was saturated with fuel. Tank hasn’t been used in years, so it’s been there a while. I have pulled out about 12 inches back from the stringer and down to the hull so it’s “clean”. Will let it get some air and see if it dries out but I suspect it is trapped in the foam and I will end up taking it all out. I don’t mind that as it is not a major job in the context of things!
  8. Thanks again. Last question (for now!).... what do you think is the maximum size tank I should go with, bearing in mind it will be sitting directly on the hull as there is no coffin box. I took out a 27 gallon but the space will easily take a 55 gallon tank. I was thinking of maybe 39 gallon as I don't want to over load or imbalance the boat. Any thoughts on this?
  9. The glass on the deck is just under 1/4” thick so the bevel would only be around 3” long. Would that be enough to tie the old and new fibreglass skins together securely enough? Do you lay the fibreglass in long sections all the way across the deck and over the joint or just cut smaller 6”, 4” and 2” sections over the joint, after the deck has been covered?
  10. Much appreciated! Would you foam in / around the whole tank or just fix it in place and leave space around and over it?
  11. Apologies for the detail I have to go into with the questions but I am a total amateur and have no experience with this type of work.... but I am really enjoying it. So the tabbing makes sense but how do I actually make the tabs and what is the purpose of the bevel? I was wondering how to avoid a “step” when I join the new plywood deck to the old fibreglass deck as effectively where the two join, the old deck will have double fibreglass thickness. And sorry to labour this point.... I bought some 10’ PVC guttering which fits perfectly on the diagonal where the old rigging tube sits. I have to modify it to make it sit right but it should work really. If you have some time, can you explain how I go from the rectangle hole in the deck to PVC to avoid the water getting in? Should I cover the hole completely?
  12. Another question: How do I prevent deck water coming back through the access hole towards the transom and going into the tank box? I figure this was part of the problem in certain areas where water damage was most prevalent. I need to somehow feed the bilge wiring and fuel lines into this area from the back of the boat but water will just follow. Does that matter, as I will have a bulge pump in the tank box or is there any way to prevent it? Ignore the mess behind the stringer as I haven’t tidied this up yet but I plan to dig out, re-tab and re-foam before the deck goes back down. I guess what I’m asking is.... what should the correct route be for the cables and fuel lines as I can’t imagine the hole that has been cut in the deck under the fuel filter is “normal” because there is no way to stop water running back towards the bow (along the rigging tube) and emptying into the foam?
  13. “You will need enough room for a backing plate made of fiberglass to be installed to the bottom of the existing deck. This will then be used to support the new deck temporarily.” Sorry.... but can you please explain the above? Everything else makes sense but I don’t follow this last part
  14. I think it was joined and over time, it has just broken apart. The image below maybe shows it better. It is still joined towards the stern and mostly on the starboard side so there is evidence. This is just maybe the photo angle that doesn’t show you properly but I can see where the fibreglass edges are jagged like they “snapped” under some trauma (over time), maybe from a constant battering on the waves.... who knows.
  15. I dug out approx 12 inches of foam on the port side of the stringer. Top foam was wet but but as I went down it was dry like honeycomb but then the bottom of the boat was a little wet so I guess the eater found its way to the lowest point! As I headed toward the bow, there was a lot of foam missing down towards the hull and it was almost like hollow caves under the top 5 to 6 inches which went all the way back to the side of the boat. Maybe the foam wasn’t “set” properly? The stringer itself is pretty solid, just that it has come away from the bottom of the boat. I can run a screwdriver all the way underneath. Can I put new foam under and alongside the old foam.... will it bond together?
×
×
  • Create New...