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Islander13111

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    Ladysmith, Vancouver Island

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    Robalo - early 70's R190

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  1. I thought I'd start a restoration thread here. As opposed to posting randomly in the CC forum. I'm not sure how deep the restoration will go, as I'm much happier fishing than sanding. In fact I'm using it in a local freshwater lake this summer as is with just a small 15hp Yamaha on it to putter around for small mouth bass. It really does make for a great, stable casting platform. But I do want to get it in the salt water and I am in the Pacific Northwest (Vancouver Island, Canada), so we have much cooler marine weather and water temps than the southeast US. A couple of changes I'm considering initially... in no particular order (I did add the lower garboard drain already... Thanks to Mr R for the instructions. - Plugging up the scuppers. When I did a sea trial (with the old 95 hp Johnson) it came with, there was a following sea - and the water that came in the scuppers almost immediately filled the live well. And when I launched the boat on a steep boat launch, the stern filled with water - straight in the live well again... I'll look at the one way valves - but I'm leaning toward capping them off. - Plug the drain hole in the bottom of the live well with a brass thru hull threaded plug. I have a flip lock plug in there now. We don't fish live bait here and would use it just as a fish hold. Though I just came across this from Sammy Joe on another thread. - I really don't want to tear up the deck to replace the fuel tank. I was thinking about installing a top surface tank under the forward casting platform (would get more weight forward), or a smaller tank under the console. I have drained and washed the tank, but haven't gotten the inspection cam down there yet. - speaking of the console, its pretty Swiss cheesed as it was set up for the original twin controls. So I'd either cover it in sheets of uhmw or aluminum and cut new holes. I could glass it all in and restart but it seems like a lot of work... Either that or replace the console with a newer smaller one. Add T-Top and windshield... - The previous owner took the bow rail off and had no idea what he did with it. I do have the teak bowsprit at least. I would like to replace the bow rail, and may have to get something fabricated, In which case I'd likely go with aluminum as it would be cheaper. I'm also thinking about a 6" rail over the gunnels as the gunnels are only about 18" above the floor. - Transom seems very solid. I'm deciding where to fill it partially to raise it to 25" or add some wings beside the outboard to keep stray water out. - I'll finish glassing over the old holes, then paint and repower. Ken
  2. Low water levels shut down the boat launch Dan... so it's in the lake for the rest of the summer now. I guess there's worse places to be stuck! the fishing is still great. Ken
  3. Welcome to the forum Noack! We love following a good restoration project. I'm in the midst of fixing up a 1970 or 71? 19CC myself... But I'm using mine as a lake boat for small mouth and trout while I save for the salt water re-power. Beats having it sit in the yard! And my son and daughter are having fun.
  4. Thanks for the valuable input Mr. Robalo. I haven't pulled the tank... yet. But that's great intel moving forward. I ran it a few times this summer for some sea trials, and I will do some mods for west coast fishing. I was just going start another thread about those....
  5. Great idea with the camera. I'm a pro video guy with many so one more won't hurt. It's worth a shot, And I can drop a little extra LED rope lighting in there that should give me a bit more resolution. Cheap cameras usually like lots of soft light. Also great idea for the fibreglass flange (2 for 2) for the hatch/deck to sit in. Now I remember reading that reference (with the diagram) in Hazzley's thread. I'm going to cut through a section that was a little hacked up under the console anyways and that will expose more of the head of the tank. Then I can better access the tank and see how it looks. Ideally I'd like to use it if possible, and run cables along the existing tray. I just know that ripping stuff apart is always easier than putting stuff back together! But if I do elect (or am forced) to take it out and replace it, the steps you laid out should work! Thanks!
  6. I'm starting this as a new thread to to keep the fuel tank replace separate from other mods. It's not critical right now but I might as well pull and replace the fuel tank. I'm almost certain that it is the glass original. There is a hatch cut slightly port of the centreline under the console and I can feel the outside edge of the tank. I don't know the tank dimensions (how wide and long the tank is to make the cuts). I am assuming that a 50 year old glass tank should be replaced. I am draining cleaning etc... but If the tank does leak, it will leak into the hull/foam and it without access to it - I would only know by smell/loss of fuel. The deck is cored and the fill line runs up through the centre console. I wondered what I might come across while under there. My sense is: 1) to run a saw blade barely deep enough to get through the cored deck. I think there is some cross strut system under there that I don't want to cut into. 2) make it an angled cut (30-45 degrees) so that a 'hatch'/deck section will nest in there. 3) has anyone replaced the removed deck section with a hatch for access later? 4) Any other tips, tricks, advice, or links to other threads welcome. Thanks in advance!
  7. 1) Thanks guys for the garboard drain stuff. I'm also going to assume from MrRobalo instructions that just clearing out a tunnel in the foam inside the hull will work. I wondered about installing a brass sleeve all the way to the live well, but the drain itself at the transom will probably work as well and be a simple task. 2) Dan- Relating to the slot in front of the transom that Hazzley posted earlier in this thread. You mentioned that you don't think this is a factory and should be covered. I have the same slot. I think mine (and maybe Hazzley's) may have been installed to allow access to the lower mounting bolts of the twin outboards. We both seem to have one of those early boats without date stamps. When I drilled and filled the old mounting holes, they exited the inside of transom under this main deck , and without the slot, they would have been otherwise inaccessible. My 'slot' is molded smooth glass on the inside and drains through the transom via the plug that is 7" up off the bottom of 'V' on the. This also appears to drain the starboard slot where the fuel lines exit. I can't reach how far back under it runs on the port side. But it does also seem to drain holes that are drilled in the live well rolled lip on both sides. It also has a drain to/from the live well which seems like it may have been added which I would likely fill as I'm not sure what purpose that serves as the drain is 8" up off the live well floor. You can see from the pic that that deck around the slot is not cored back there. Not sure what this adds to the convo, but may help explain why the slots were there. In my case, with the standard transom for now - I will likely leave it for the time being as I may need access. If I'm not running any lines through there (not sure why I would) I will maybe my cut some starboard to fit, and screw it down with a bit of sealant.
  8. Thanks for the garboard drain install!!! I was expecting it to be more complex. I just want to locate the drain low enough to work most effectively, but high enough to clear the floor of the hull. I'm thinking 2 1/2 inches or so from the low point should work. My son has been in college in Florida and gets to fish out of Sarasota with his friends. Beautiful area! I'll be reading back over this whole thread again as I pulled back to console and I'll open up pandoras box... at least enough to take a closer look.
  9. Thanks for the reply Dan. The idea of the kicker definitely more about hours off the main and the sip fuel while trolling. 6 hours is a half day fishing for my son and I just hated watching these hours rack up so fast on my last motor without the kicker. Weight was an issue as it was a small Arima Sea Explorer. A nice little light boat and great for fishing two people but couldn't get on plane if the 3rd person was over 150 pounds. It had a 50HP merc on it when I bought it and I made the mistake of repowering it with a 50HP Yamaha 4-stroke. It ran beautifully with two people most of the time - but I definitely don't want to make that mistake again. These new 4-strokes have definitely changed the concept of safe and reliable boating and we're usually fishing within 4-5 miles of shore max - sometimes right up against the shore. We do have lots of little islands and tidal currents that create hazards if one were to lose power. There has been a few times over the years in the 2-stroke days where the kicker has us off the rocks. But with a new 4-stroke- I wouldn't worry much about that. I'll try the experiments you mentioned. My sense is to keep as much weight off the transom makes these boats a little happier and my feet a little drier. I also have the option of keeping a lighter 6 or 8-hp trolling motor on board and mounting it when we get to the fishing grounds on a bracket for longer fishing trips.
  10. Hey John. Yes. These forums are invaluable - so it is great when people share their experiences (good and bad). Especially when it's vintage type stuff. Dan (2-N-Tow) is an incredibly valuable asset. And it's great to be able to learn and share this way and through the archives. It's easy to fall into analysis paralysis and do nothing for fear of doing something wrong! I commend you on your willingness to get in there and see it through! My deck is relatively rock solid, other than a couple small hatches under the console. I am pretty sure that I have the original (fibreglass) tank. My filler cap is in the console. The fuel lines exit just before the transom on the starboard side they are closed off. I really don't want to dig out the fuel tank. And after following your thread I REALLY didn't want to dig out the fuel tank. But I totally get why you have to do yours. And you will know that it's done and as long as you can get everything sealed up, you should be in great shape for 20 plus years. In my case, There is no repair or seams in the deck at all - over or around the tanks (other than screw holes from the seats). The nonslip diamond pattern in the decking is all intact. If I could angle cut and lift the deck in one panel around the tank as Dan described, and be essentially sure that I could get it cleanly in one piece - replace the tank and set the deck back down and glass it in - I'd do it. But without knowing for sure what I'll find (I've reno'ed an old house or two) I don't want to take on the added work at this point. Like you, my main concern is getting this thing tight and dry below decks as well as possible to keep her floating high. Right now, My plan is to make sure that the fuel tank is completely empty. Then I may have it pressure tested. If nothing else - if the existing tank is relatively dry and tight - I will get some positive buoyancy close to the stern where I need it. Because of the type of boating/fishing I do - I could get by with day tanks -although below deck fuel is ideal - and the lines exit at the transom already. I could fit a 25-30 gallon tank under the console - but then I do have to weave the lines through and out. I also don't like fuel and batteries to close together after I had a battery explode on me once. So I'd have to come up with a different plan for battery storage. I also considered the idea of putting a fuel tank in the storage compartment at the bow - though I would then have to run the fuel lines all the way down under the gunnels, which would keep them off the deck at least. The draining deck scuppers are a bit of a pain in a boat that doesn't drain too well. Another reason that we don't want water in the foam/hull. I have seen one-way ball valves that help to keep the water from coming in. I am still looking for the directions for installing a lower garboard drain out the transom. I don't want to guess yet - as drilling holes in a perfectly good transom well below the waterline is a bit scary even with directions. Right now my transom drain is about 7" from the low point of the hull, and drains only the rear transom. I would love to have it about 4-5 inches lower and run it through all the way to the live well - as the main hull drains into the live well. My live well only has a bottom drain (which is great when the boat is out of the water, but useless when you're at sea. The drain from the main hull also drains water from the live well back into the hull unless you plug it (which means that water can't drain from the hull... 😖. A previous owner (I think) drilled a hole from the transom well to the live well but its about 7" up so it doesn't drain until she's pretty full. When (if) I can get all the deck holes sealed (under console, old seats, random holes, etc)... I would ideally just plug the drain from the main hull to the live well and only unplug it to tilt the boat and drain it periodically. I'm attaching some pics. I just picked up the boat late last summer and really this is the first spring working on it. I'd like to get her out for a few sea trials this year and ideally be fishing in it next year. As I mentioned in another thread - it's for salmon fishing on the west coast of Canada. So I'll be repowering the main motor and adding a 9.9HP trolling motor. And I'll be mounting Electric Scotty downriggers on top of the gunnels near the stern (I'll reinforce the gunnel with marine ply or aluminun and bolt right through them) We troll slow and drag 15 pound cannonballs on each side up to 200' deep to get down to the fish. It does create some good force on the mounts. I previously owned a welded aluminum boat and a (too) small Arima fibreglass. I always liked the centre console style and love the idea of this being bigger than the BW Montauk, and considerably cheaper than the newer factory sport fishing boats out there. I do want to figure out a better way to mount seats/ or a leaning post behind the console. I don't want to screw them directly to the deck, so I'm looking at options. I may laminate some marine plywood directly to the deck with some T-nuts mounted in them so the seats or leaning post can be bolted down securely. Those seats can take a pounding and twist and pull in every direction. Eventually they'll loosen and cause leaks and when you can't get at the underside to fix them... Ken IMG_0341.
  11. I'll be repowering at some point this season or next, and wondering if there is something of a consensus on main motor size. I'm on Vancouver Island off the west coast of canada, and rarely run more than 20 miles of relatively sheltered waters. We do have banks fishing and tuna but that's 18-50 miles off shore and I wouldn't be doing that ever in this boat. More the issues here are really strong currents, cold water, fog, rocky shores - so reliability is tops. Thats reason why most boats run Yamaha, (Suzuki seems to be in #2 these days ahead of Honda and Mercury). Good used motors are very rare here. A couple of the dealers have fish camp lease returns which can save a couple of 1,000 and only give up about 2-300 hours. Yamaha is definitely #1 here, and I've always had the very best experience with their motors. I definitely can't say that about other brands I've owned, Because safety and reliability are so important, most people run a secondary trolling motor for fishing (9.9hp). We troll really slow, and while the new big 4-strokes can idle down to troll speeds, it's a lot of extra hours wear and tear on such expensive motors. It's typical to run 1 hour or less each way to the fishing grounds, and then troll back and forth for 10-12 hours. And in the case of breakdown on the main motor - you can always at least get home safe on the kicker. Question is - If I go the extra and get the Yamaha 150HP at $19,000 CDN for the 20" shaft (it even hurts to type that price!), I'd still be in the market for a $3,000 trolling motor. The 150 is also 485 pounds, add another 100 or so for the kicker. I don't like being underpowered - my last boat was underpowered, and I had to change the prop a couple of times to get it consistently up on plane, but that is a hefty price to pay for the extra HP! My first choice would the 115HP. It's 4,500 cheaper and 100 pounds lighter - so I could get into the main and trolling motors for much less than 150HP - and have 100 less pounds hanging off the back of the boat. I bought the boat with a 1988 Johnson 90hp Seahorse on it. It runs fairly well but I haven't had it on the water yet to see if it manages to push the boat along. I've been working on getting the hull as water free as possible and patching deck holes to keep it that way. So I will take it out soon, but I'm not expecting much. Of course, if I got 25 knots out of it with 2 other people on board, then I'd start to believe that the 115HP might be enough. 25-30 knots in flat water with 800 pounds of passengers would be plenty for my needs. I know that you never really know how a motor will suit a boat when you're not buying them together already. Any experience or insight would be appreciated! Ken
  12. Hazzley, I'm a little late to chime in here, but I have the same boat and have been doing some glassing as a complete rookie, but slowly progressing and gaining confidence! 2-N-Tow is a great and generous resource here! If You haven't seen them, and you want to go deeper into it, or watch some basics. Andy at BoatWorksToday has a youtube channel full of great fibreglassing tutorials. Andy tends to be a near perfectionist and I'm more functional first - when I get to the fine filling and fairing I'll try to spend more time on form. But the questions always become - do we want to use our boats - or work on them! I'm enjoying your rebuild progress! Keep up the great job! Ken.
  13. I'm looking for the garboard drain install info sheet that MrRobalo had linked too. I find references to it and the links seem to return error messages. The garboard on my 70-71? R190 is up about 6" or so from the bottom of the transom. I have read about installing one lower, but I'm not sure how low to drill the drain. This isn't my picture, but it shows what I am referencing. Any help is appreciated! Ken
  14. Craig, I'm following along on your project as well. There is not a lot of resources for the issues of older Robalo, so we have to glean the information where we can. Mine is a few years older than yours, but much of this information applies to multiple years. It's really tricky to map out what's going on under there without access. Mine is a project boat that I'm not rushing to get on the water, but next summer or so is the goal. The PO took off the bow rail and now can't find it, which sucks... I've offered to pay him if he can relocate it, because the original stainless would be great to have. In my case, I have NO deck hatches except for two small inspection hatches under the console that someone added. I would literally have to cut my tank out through the floor. I will most likely just run external tanks for now. We don't don't have to run too far to fish on Vancouver Island. Out here we just need a reasonably solid hull and a top notch motor. One great thing about this old Robalo is a very solid transom. Right now I have the boat at about a 30 degree angle to drain as much water to the fish well as possible. I'm trapping it before drains so I can see how much is there. After 4 days, it's less than 1/2 gallon. While it should float ok as is, I'm getting retting to re-poxy some old transom holes, and do a bit of glassing. Ive been watching some great youtube glassing repair vids.
  15. Thx. 2-N I'm picking up the boat tomorrow, so I'll scan it more closely for a hull number. I've never done glass work before, but I have a friend with experience with it. I also plan to raise the bow way up in storage to see if I can get whatever water is in that foam to drain to the stern. There is a small drain hole from the main deck to the bottom of the bait/fish well at the stern in front of the transom. The well then has a thru hull drain out the bottom. Ken
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