Jump to content
Robalo Boating Forum

gw204

Members
  • Posts

    34
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Location
    St. Leonard, MD

Previous Fields

  • Boat Type
    '96 2140

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

gw204's Achievements

Deck Hand

Deck Hand (3/9)

0

Reputation

  1. Looks like a divorce may force the sale of my '96 2140 project. Boat is currently pretty well taken apart...engine is off, floor panel is out (core removed), gas tank is out, etc. Has the factory hard top with full enclosure in good shape. It's not in a state where I can quickly put it back together. So, I'm wondering what your guys thoughts are on the value of just the hull based on the limited description above. I'm thinking it's pretty much a parts boat at this point and any value in in the top and tank... I also have a nice trailer and original Merc 225. Figure those would be an easier sell...so I'm not worried about them.
  2. Thanks. 👍 The liner does continue under the bunks, but it steps up a few inches from the level of the floor at the edge of the bunks and...if I remember correctly...angles up as the hull bottom does. So I'm not sure if there is core in those areas or not...but if so I'm thinking it should be isolated from the core in the main section of the floor. I'll report back with what I find once surgery begins.
  3. The cabin floor on my '96 2140 has been soft ever since I bought the boat a few years ago. Given that my refurbishment is still ongoing I figured I might as well address this issue too. I suspect the issue is due to the toilet being remounted at some point because I found additional unsealed screw holes when I pulled it out. So, I'm looking for a little advice on how to best tackle this project... Am I correct to assume that the floor is cored with plywood? How far to each side does the coring extend? Are there any structural members (stringers/bulkheads) below that floor panel that I need to be mindful of when I cut it out? Would you guys recommend installation of a deck plate somewhere in that panel and boring a tunnel in the foam to the hull bottom to allow for period checks for and removal of trapped water? If so, should it be placed toward the front of the floor panel or the rear near the forward bilge pump recess? On the centerline or offset to one side? Would there be any benefit to finishing the edges of the removed section and then building a flange around the perimeter so that the rebuilt floor panel can be secured with screws and caulk much like the fuel tank hatch? Thanks. Brian
  4. Late to the party but if you guys still need info on the tank, I'll help as best I can. I currently have the tank pulled out of my '96 2140. Just let me know what you need to know...
  5. There is no way you'll be able to completely fill the hole with Marine Tex. For something like that, I always drill out the hole slightly to expose fresh core and glass, put a countersink on the hole, coat the entire inside of the holes with unthickened epoxy several times (use whatever method it takes - small paint brush, toothpick, qtip, whatever) and then inject epoxy thickened with cabosil into the hole using a syringe. If you push bottom out the syringe in the hole and slowly pull it out as you inject, you can get 100% of the void filled. Tape over the injected epoxy to keep it in the hole while it cures.
  6. I can confirm the 250 max HP rating for 2140. The sticker is still legible on my '96.
  7. Take a look at this thread: The 2120 referenced here has a coffin/tank configuration similar to your 2440.
  8. Don't make any plans to coal tar the tank until you have it out and can give it a good inspection. When the time comes, another option is to coat it with Interprotect. Whatever you choose, be sure to properly sand, clean and etch it first.
  9. That hole was too perfectly round to be anything other than a drilled hole. I think even if it were a puncture wound from your collision with the buoy (like from a protruding bolt/nut) you would see other impact damage. Something is fishy here... I would encourage you to do lots of reading on the different types of resin and fiberglass before you attempt any further structural repairs. From the pics posted it looks like you are using epoxy resin but you only mention the generic terms "mat" and "fiberglass". It's my understanding that mat is best used with poly or vinylester resin as those will dissolve the styrene based binders that hold the individual glass strands together. The fiberglass cloth you appear to have used on the bottom repair looks fairly light (just a few ounces) and while this is fine to use with epoxy, I would have preferred to see you grind a much larger area and then patch with something heavier like a 1708 or 1808 stitchmat (heavy cloth with a light mat stitched to one side) and vinylester resin. Here's a good article to get you started: https://www.fibreglast.com/product/the-fundamentals-of-fiberglass/Learning_Center Also, take a look at the Boatworks Today channel on Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC0kDqq-pSzdqFUk3oTaHBuA
  10. I'm not familiar with the 2440 so I can't comment on where all of the drains are. That being said, I highly doubt Robalo purposefully built in any potential paths for fuel to take to get to and saturate foam should a leak occur somewhere in that fuel tank coffin. Tell us more about the spot on the bottom you are trying to dry and repair. How did the damage occur, how large is the original hole and how long has it been like that? I'm thinking that is the primary source of your water intrusion and if left unchecked for an extended period of time, you could have a substantial amount of trapped in the hull. It takes a LONG time for water to drain from foam and most people will tell you you'll never be able to fully dry that boat out. Open up the damaged spot more so there's a larger path for the water to exit. You'll probably have to go all the way though until you hit foam. Post up a new pic when your done that and we'll trying to steer you in the right direction.
  11. You need to grind away all of that bad glass before you start making any repairs. Bevel the edges back at a 12:1 ratio and get it to the point where all you see is good (amber color) glass. I would also do whatever it takes to get to the back side of that spot so you can lay some additional glass there as well.
  12. You can reach in through the deck plates on the forward side of the livewells and snap some pics to see what's down there. The overboard discharge pump would be directly under the port seat and the holding tank just forward of the gas tank. My guess is you won't see any of that stuff.
  13. My 2140 has 2 thru hulls on each side and they are for the following: P1 (the forward one) - holding tank overboard discharge. If the boat is equipped with a holding tank, it should also have a vent fitting about half way up the hull side a few feet forward of the thru hulls and the waste port will have a 1-1/2 hose that routes down under the floor by the port side captains chair. P2 - port side livewell drain S1 - forward bilge pump discharge. This one had one of those cheap scupper valves installed over it to prevent back flow. It's pretty much a straight run from the pump to the thru hull. Based on other pictures I see online I don't think the valve is factory. I'm betting a previous owner put it on my boat to address the same issue. I don't think the siphon would be strong enough to pull that much water in. My guess is it's simply being forced up through the discharge hose. S2 - starboard side livewell drain
  14. I know 2-N-TOW makes some really nice replacement vent covers, but I'm wondering what the purpose of these is? Are they purely cosmetic or does the 2140 have a tendency to take in water through the traditional vent fittings if the cover isn't installed? Both of the vent covers on my '96 were trashed and have since been removed. Now I'm just trying to decide whether to reinstall new covers or simply fill and gelcoat the holes. Thanks.
  15. I didn't really take any pics. I'll be sure to grab some when I start putting everything back together. It was a huge PITA. That section of deck is insanely heavy. After pulling the mounting screws I was able to lift up the aft end of the deck enough to get in there and disconnect the drain/fill hoses for the livewells. Then I wrestled with it enough to get it up and supported by some boards spanning the gunwales. From there I backed the boat up to an oak tree and hung a chain hoist from a large branch and lifted it clear of the boat. Pulled the boat out and lowered it on to my utility trailer. The under deck plumbing was a huge disappointment. The livewell drain hose was cheap plastic bilge hose pushed half way on to dual size thru hulls (1" and 1-1/8" diameter) and single clamped. I am going to replace that garbage with the appropriate hose, to the correct size thru hulls and double clamped. I'll leave small service loops that allow enough slack to make the connections once the deck is back in place (aft end propped up again). Here's my advice to anyone considering buying one of these... Don't. It's a nice rig, well laid out and seems to have a good ride. Access to things for maintenance purposes is a nightmare though. The section of deck could have very easily been molded into three separate pieces so it was much easier to remove. Bilge access is the worst of all the boats I've owned.
×
×
  • Create New...