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Retainer

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Everything posted by Retainer

  1. That is exactly what I did. I had a new one fabricated from my old one.
  2. I may just have 2 new ones milled locally. I have a couple leads. I knew it would be best to impossible lol, never hurts to ask.
  3. Where can I find a set of teak coverboards for my 1978 23’ CC? I guess I could have a set milled, but wondering if there is a set out there?
  4. Hey there. My starboard coverboard has developed some serious stress fracturing and I think I can stop it from getting worse with a few bolts and braces. BUT Id like to replace both coverboards. Any suggestions? I’m in South Jersey.
  5. I’d also like to build up my transom an extra 3-5 inches, if possible. I’ll go back to my thread at the appropriate time. Good luck with your job here, it looks like you know what you’re doing which is more than I can say for myself.
  6. All very interesting and helpful. I’m going to be in the same boat so to speak. I had a verbal quote of 6k plus from a reputable local fiberglass shop. I have an inquiry into another shop and I’m waiting to here back, although he sounded too busy to take this on over the winter. Of course, there is my boat guy too, I’m just not sure if he is up to the task of a transom rebuild this winter. Or his cost.
  7. There is a site online....you can google Robalo windshields or variants of it. I was looking at it before. It may be in Arizona, but I might be confusing it with another company. I needed a new windshield on my ‘78 CC and this site had all model years posted...except for....1978. If you pick your year and color of windshield they already have them spec’d out to fit. i didn’t use the company because I was able to take my existing windshield to a local glass company and they fabricated a new plexiglass one for $450 .
  8. I’m no expert. But I know this site is more designed to address classic Robalos . But maybe someone here can help. I would find the other Robalo site which I think is now back up and running. That site deals with late model Robalos. I doubt anyone here is throwing on a 300 4 stroke yammie on a classic transom. Just a thought but again, maybe someone can help you out here.
  9. That’s what I figured, I guess I just needed you to confirm what I already knew. kinda hard to secure trim tabs by screwing into wet wood. Guess I need to start saving some money.
  10. Dan what is your thoughts on this drill and epoxy fill?
  11. That’s what I was wondering....I didn’t know how thick the bottom of the hull was. As to whether the tab screws would be screwed into the wood transom or the hull itself. ugh, all this work I did.......
  12. And so my question is, if I go with the carbon core pour option, just how much of the wood transom has to come out? or is the drill down multiple hole with a long drill bit and pour epoxy the way to go? how would that effect the trim tab screws at the hull bottom? I am ignorant to this process.
  13. So you can see inside the hole, which was cut out (this is where the cleats were on the inside). See the wood transom core. He glassed the wood to the back of the transom so as to strengthen it. Especially for tubing with the kids or maybe water skiing.
  14. Ok, I guess what I’m asking is, the screws would be going into the actual hull, as opposed to the wood transom. Boat guy wants to drill very long holes down int the transom wood and pour epoxy to strengthen the transom. What if the wood at the bottom of transom is wet or rotted Where the screws go in for the tabs. I kinda like that carbon core transom pour. But does the wood up along the sides of the transom to the eyelets have to be removed too? He reinforced that section of the transom by glassing the wood onto the back skin of the transom. I’d have to pull out a pic when we were doing this.
  15. I am watching this thread, as I expect to be doing some transom work over the winter.
  16. I was checking out the Bennett M120 tabs. Looks I can get the complete set for under $500. Question: where the tabs get screwed into the hull, would the screws be going into the hull? How thick is the hull at the transom? 2-3”? I know the actuator arm screws into the transom. But the screws that hold the tabs, I’d be screwing them into the fiberglass hull, correct?
  17. You guys make it sound so simple. Glad you’re around for all this advice. Thanks!
  18. I have a ‘78 23’ CC. Just finished the restoration. You can check it out here. I had 2 batteries in the back, starboard side. I bought 2 battery trays and moved the batteries under the console, starboard side. Lift up the cushion and they are easily accessible.
  19. Thanks to both of you. I’m figuring the trim tabs might be good to install while I’m doing that transom work, whatever that turns out to be.
  20. Hey Dan? I think we may have talked about this before, but I’m considering installing trim tabs over the winter. I’m also talking to boat guy about strengthening the transom. But trim tabs for a moment first. Here is a pic of my stern. I have 2 transducers, operating 2 separate Lowrance units. Where would I install the trim tabs? And I guess I’d have to reposition the transducers? what effect will the tabs have on the transducers being able to read bottom depth from the tabs being down?
  21. I had that telecoms no feedback steering, then it broke in me and I had to get towed in. Then I just hit the bullet and installed a sea star hydraulic system, had it for one year on the Ficht and wished I had it installed years ago. Best thing? I was able to move it right over to my new Etec. all great advice. Are those engines direct injection? Are they Johnson Fichts? Or carbed? See I told you I know nothing of engines.
  22. Does the boat have a livewell? If so, check those fittings for leaks.
  23. Nice boat. I’d run those engines till they die, then repower with a Single 300 Suzuki or Twin 150s if you still wanted twins. Not sure your fishing destination. If it primarily offshore, maybe stay with twins. But inshore and the bays? 1 engine. And a Boat US or Sea tow membership.
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