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DoughnutToo

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About DoughnutToo

  • Rank
    First Mate

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Lakeland

Previous Fields

  • Boat Type
    1980 Robalo 256
  1. DoughnutToo

    twins to single outboard

    That is what i am saying. You took the steps to make sure it was properly braced and supposrted. I am not doing any of that.. I am strictly going to gut the transom core and pour in a new one.
  2. DoughnutToo

    twins to single outboard

    I may end up having to cut down the transom. What are the odds someone can trace a cardboard template of the top of the transom? Like you observed, finding a good 30" is a pain. I also have to remember that if I go with a single 300 at the 550lb area, it is still going to be considerably less than two 200's at 900 lbs and should lift the stern up a few inches. I was reading more on putting on a bracket and have taken into consideration that I don't think this hull will fair well having not been designed in 1980 for one without doing the proper steps. Maybe I should just stick to a transom cut and pour in the Nida Core.
  3. DoughnutToo

    twins to single outboard

    But when you are talking backwash, you are talking about a standard transom height or cut down in the center? Here is a picture of a 2160 with the center cut for a 25" outboard. Do you have a picture of your transom area for an example? When I was talking about cutting the transom down in the middle, it would look just like this. I would love a bracket and fit a 25" shaft!!!
  4. DoughnutToo

    twins to single outboard

    I was at work and couldn't finish what I wanted to ask. In reference to adding the bracket, I have been trying to find some solid information. To make it clear as glass, my budget allows for used. I would love to buy new everything, but it will not happen and the wife wouldn't allow. I was looking for a possible single style bracket to put on a 25" 300hp. I like the idea of a full width transom bracket to make climbing into the boat easier from the water, and remove the standard swim platform/ladder. I will be doing a transom pour as my transom replacement when I get the outboard, but I cannot access everywhere for bolts/nuts. Your suggestions on which bracket to go with and how can I tell about being able to use a 25" shaft motor? Edit: And since I have been looking online, I have noticed a lot of 24-28 foot walk-arounds and center consoles with 250hp outboards. Example here, https://miami.craigslist.org/brw/bpo/d/scarab-center-console-fishing/6266184886.html I am curious as to how this thing performs because its base weight is 5500 lbs. Some of these WA's I see weight much more than me and have 225-250hp outboards.
  5. DoughnutToo

    Fuel hose replacement

    If you look at my post, http://robaloboatowners.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=6339, you can see with the lid off where the fuel hoses go into the side behind the wire tunnel. Mine had a larger daimeter hose as a sheath or protector wedged into the passage hole. Great idea in theory, but absolutely impossible to change the fuel hose without removing the lid. On another note, from experience, I would highly suggest you add a filter before the engine. Safety in numbers and outboards are too expensive to pass on a $10 filter twice a year. Just my opinion.
  6. DoughnutToo

    twins to single outboard

    Here is a picture for you. I have looked at the online brochures for pictures and found a few via google of the single setups. To be honest, I do not want to cut the transom down because I have watched the water rush and hit the transom. If it were five inches lower it would flow in, which I don't want to deal with. Finding a reasonable 30" 300hp in my budget has proven to be more difficult than I thought. Plenty of 200-250hp. There are great deals on twin 225 or 250 hp outboards, but the combined weight is just too much. I know they are over the power rating, which I would never really need that much horsepower, but the weight is just too much. If the Yamaha F350 didn't terrify me, I would consider it as a used option.
  7. DoughnutToo

    twins to single outboard

    I will not entertain this thread on another forum, as it will spin out of control and be a waste of time. My lower unit clutch dog or shift assembly went out on my port engine. I am not going to spend the money to have it rebuilt to cost near $1000. It is just not worth it. I can't find a used one at a reasonable price, most I see are $700-$900. I also need it to be counter rotating, which just narrows the field even more. I have told myself, and my wife, I do not want to replace them with another set of used twins. I would rather have a single 300, but my transom is setup for twin 25" shafts. That means I would need a 30" shaft 300. However, I planned on gutting my transom and pouring a new one when this repower takes place. So, here lies the questions knowledgeable Robalo owners. Do I set out to just purchase a single 300 in a 30 inch shaft, or modify this transom to accept a 25" 300? I can find 25" 300s all day, 30" 300s are harder to come across that are not apart of a triple setup. Or super high hours. Question 2. Power options in 1980 were a single Mercury 300 or twin mercury 150s. Even a picture of a 256 with a single 300. I have only seen one recent photo of a 256 (or 2520) with a 300 Suzuki, but he sold it. I would love to find out how it handled. I want to do bay, inshore and offshore fishing. And by offshore I mean 30 miles in the gulf, not middle grounds. Used twin setups are available for around $7k-$8k. Single 300 $5k. As long as I can get from A to B in a timely fashion, and economically, I am elated. I do not want to do 40+mph. Top speed right now is 37mph with these tired 200's. I would love to see or hear some real world responses. And I do not care about the discussion of twin vs single reliability or security. Not even considering that as an option.
  8. DoughnutToo

    Getting water below the deck.....

    Well, where ever the water is coming from is either affiliated with rough seas and rolling waves or its rain water. We went out last weekend scalloping, endured about 30 minutes of stormy seas and then over six hours of floating. About four cups of water. So I need to try and do some water tests to see if it is somewhere on the deck maybe, but I have no cracks or holes. It clearly was not at the level from out last outing when we went way out.
  9. DoughnutToo

    Classic vs New Robalo comparison

    Comparing the classic hull designs of late 70s into mid 80s, what models would you consider those center consoles to be similar to? I keep looking at the 246 Cayman and thinking it just feels very similar to my 256. My 256 is very long, I call it my Destroyer, but not so much deep v offshore with huge gunnels. I also enjoyed floating in pretty shallow water this past weekend. I was able to slow ride the flats between 2.5 - 3.0 feet of water. Just a conversation piece.
  10. DoughnutToo

    Getting water below the deck.....

    I can say that I do think you are right, water is coming from somewhere above the water line. We were on the Chain of Lakes in Winter Haven yesterday for about eight hours. Same results as the other lake test. This Saturday we are headed to Crystal River for the scallop season opener, that will be the ocean test.
  11. DoughnutToo

    Getting water below the deck.....

    I will keep looking around the rub rail, but I cant see anything that stands out. I don't want to have to remove the rub rail if I don't have to. Except for one trip out in the Gulf, it has primarily been the same slow rolling waves.
  12. DoughnutToo

    Getting water below the deck.....

    Went out on the lake today for about two hours. I probably had maybe 1/3 cup of water and it appeared to be coming from the fish box and forward. I have the foam dug out in the best square I could do from the bottom corner of the transom to the back of the fish box. Wonder if salt water infiltrates faster than fresh? Sounds stupid, but just wondering. See picture below. Best shot I could get given the location and sun. This was after two hours or so. You are looking straight down from the deck access i made. This foam is two inches from the fish box. That hump tunnel runs to the fuel tank coffin box and has the fish box drain inline with it. So if it was leaking, it would fill the coffin box. I have NO IDEA what that white goo crap is. It must be from the factory, because it is hard as rock and looks like it oozed out of something on accident. There is another spot just like it about eight inches back towards the transom. If you look at the spot where the hull can first be seen after the foam, you can see the small water trail going around that white crap and slowly puddling towards my thruhull scoop and plate, then will go to the rear. Again, two hours only netted about 1/3 cup today. Kinda weird, but first time I have checked in fresh water.
  13. DoughnutToo

    Getting water below the deck.....

    Forgot to say, the thru hull scoop isn't leaking from inside out. There isn't a drop of water coming out the bottom. But I will double check again in the morning to make sure water isn't coming from outside in.
  14. DoughnutToo

    Getting water below the deck.....

    I will look again. Tonight I took the water hose and filled up the rear deck side mini bilge for the drains and scuppers. No water leaking down. I took the hose and let it flow over the deck hatch I installed also previously when I installed the thru hull pickup (which is when I discovered the water to start with). Some drip-page on the inside of the hull, but not to the extent to introduce that much water. What is hard, is that when you are in the water the boat naturally tries to level itself. When water gets inside, it too is going to level out with gravity. So I know water makes its way to the front along the bottom between the foam and fiberglass hull. So I would assume naturally it would take some time to drain its way back as I shop vac it dry and check two days later. When I do that, there is about a gallon or so after a couple days that has puddled to the rear from the front. I just installed a new Simrad GO7 XSE with Totalscan and tomorrow I am headed to the lake to test it out. I will do some digging around as best as I can to see if I can observe water "draining" to the bilge. It has to be coming from somewhere. I know where it is not coming from, the deck! LOL. There is not that amount of water pouring onto the deck. And the only place that I can see/think would be the coffin box lid. IF it was leaking, which it is not, and then it would still drain to the box.
  15. DoughnutToo

    Getting water below the deck.....

    Okay so I have been trying to eliminate areas where I thought maybe water was getting below the deck from above. I have tried to find every hole and seal them with either polyester resin or 5200, depending on location. For the life of me, I cannot figure it out. Last year I did the fish box drain and resealed with 5200 per the forums. I did confirm though, if water enters through this point it will fill into the fuel tank coffin box. So even if it leaked, water SHOULD be filling around the tank. But it isn't. Garboard drain also seals that access tube for tank drainage. I literally have to shop vac water out every time I come back from taking her out. It takes a couple weeks for all the water to drain to my "created" bilge area in the hull with the boat tilted up. I checked the bow eye, with no leaks. If it was leaking, it would go from that anchor rode area into the right side compartment and drain back to the the upper transom area. Its not rain water, because it takes on water throughout the day while on the water. I would say about 3-5 gallons in a ten hour day on the water, maybe less. Because these boats are foam filled, what suggestions do you guys have to find the leak? I can't do like other hulls and fill with water to find the drip below. I can't go under the boat in the water and use dye because I can see crap with solid foam. Baby powder does no good either, since solid foam.
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