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Rob L

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About Rob L

  • Rank
    First Mate

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Quakertown, PA

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  • Boat Type
    1977 R19 CC

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165 profile views
  1. Oky doky. Sounds like a plan. I'll have to be creative to chisel the wood out, but there is definite rot on that side. Port side holders seem solid, I might remove them and make sure the wood is sealed up while I am at it. What kind of an epoxy do you recommend to mix w the cabusol?
  2. It appears that the wood is not glassed in but laying on top of the fibreglass with the cover plate screwed and caulked onto the wood. Am I wrong? If so a patch repair should be easy. In this pick of the one rod holder hole you can see the 3 layers.
  3. Ok. I'm blaming Adam n Eve, nothing goes easy!!! Starboard side I took the side cushion off to get better access for the washers and nuts after I thru bolt the bracket. Good news, I had room. Bad news, I had to remove the 2 rod holders to get to the cushion bolts. The one holder I could have just picked up. The gunnel wood is shot around the holders on that side. It looks like it is top plate, then wood then the bottom fibreglass of the gunnel. If I remove the top plate can I just cut out the wood in the area of the rod holders and replace the top plate? What wood do I use? I won't n
  4. 1st option and a little silicone cauk sounds easier to me. Thanks for the tips and all you do on this site!! I found if I set them just behind the cleat slots there is a nice flat spot to thru bolt. With 4 ft booms they will stick plenty far out the back or turned out the sides will give a nice spread.. Starboard side I think I will need to remove the side cushion to be able to get washers and nuts on the bolts. It's tight! When I finally get it done I'll post a pick or two. I gotta keep moving, spring shad will be running in a few weeks up the mighty delaware.
  5. What suggestion would you have to seal those holes? Silicon? Or would it be better to paint the holes with fibreglass resin?
  6. I was hoping the gunnel board removal would give me access. But now that I slept on it they are probably more cosmetic and there is still fiberglass underneath. Port side I have some access and could probably work washers to the bolts, starboard side... it is tight, ugg. I am not sure a backer plate could work. What I can feel of the underside is uneven.
  7. Ok. I have been doing some deeper digging. I don't think the fasteners mentioned will work. Looks like they need more clearance than exists to get them set. ( the toggle goes in vertical and hast to clear the hole to flip flat) How much of a chore is it to remove that top plate? Looks like about 20 screws and caulk. Then I could bolt the mount directly with washers and replace the plate. In the pic you can see where I want to put the mount and the plate runs from the transom up to the start of the rise , about 8ft. Please ignore the mess... it's winter in pa!!
  8. Thanks. I looked them up online and they seemed like a good idea. Garelick uses them for their pedestal seat bases so they gotta be strong. As for a planer, in chasing salmon I will need to target the depth and could easily be down 60 to 100 ft. Many will run planers with divers along with downriggers to get a wider spread and cover more of the water column vertically. I also use downriggers in the spring for shad fishing in the delaware. Bob
  9. I just spent some more time looking at it. There is very limited space to get washers or backing on thru bolts, especially starboard side. Any ideas?
  10. A future project, next month or so, is to buy and install a pair of downriggers for my R2160. I am leaning towards the back corners so I could run them straight back or swivel them out to the sides. I am also leaning to manual simply due to cost. Use will be for salmon trolling in New York so I will be using fairly heavy weights, 10 to 15lbs. Because of the weight I am concerned about using the rod holders as a mount and am leaning towards directly mounting them on the boat. Any thoughts as to the best way to secure the base plates to the boat?? Pic of one back corner.
  11. I hear you on keeping it simple. This is primarily a family vacation, so my fishing is limited. I do hope to get outside the inlet at least one of the days. I will pick your brain later in the year for some tips on basic rigs to bring for bay and inshore fishing. (I am hoping to catch something tasty to throw on the grill one evening.) And I am sure I'll be stopping by the tackle shop for what I don't have. There is always room for more tackle!!
  12. My boat now and the only fun I have, shovelling snow and feedn the birds!!
  13. I have been watching some YouTube videos of outer banks fishing and a bunch on the Oregon Inlet, looks a little challengingšŸ¤”. I am getting pumped. I'm ready for winter to end and to get that boat out!!
  14. I had a couple areas where they cut and added a good sized patch. Use a power wire brush to clean it up. Harbour freight sells a cheap grinder and wire brushes for it if you don't have one. This is a pic of the finished tank. You can see the raised area of the patch on top. I'd clean it up and see what a shop can do. Other than the corroded areas the rest if the tank was solid.
  15. You might not find a thread specific to a 2140, but there are plenty of tank replacement threads for many different boats that will tell you the basics of what you need to do. Finding the dimensions of your specific tank prior to pulling it? One of the old Robolo guys will have to let you know it that info still exists. You might have to pull it and measure. I had a leaking aluminium tank in my R190 center consol. I removed the hatch, disconnected the hoses, dug out all the foam I could easily get at. Then I used a pressure washer and blew out the rest until the tank popped out. Easy
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