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asboats2002

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About asboats2002

  • Rank
    Deck Hand
  • Birthday 02/14/1950

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Louisiana
  • Interests
    Boating, Fishing, Water Sports

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    asboats2002@yahoo

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  • Boat Type
    75' Robalo Slickcraft 236

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  1. Shawn, Here's the link to the Yamaha Prop Selector site ; http://www.yamahapropselector.com/propSelector/web/ If I'm reading your post right, you have a Boat Type:1996 Robalo 2140 WA cuddy with a 2 stroke 225 Yamaha. Assuming it's a 3 liter motor ? If your boat store will allow you to try some loaner props, you might want to try the M Series props. The have less blade area so you can run a little more pitch. The T Series props have more blade area. The M blades would allow you to turn up RPM faster but the increased pitch should get you more mph on top end. I hate it when the boat stores always want to sell you the high priced props or some other brand, when I have had great success with the Yamaha brands on Yamaha motors. M & T props are Yamaha stainless steel but black painted props, instead or the higher priced polished others. I have a 1975 ROBALO R-236 (23' ) Cuddy Cabin for 20 years I ran a Yamaha 2 stroke 200 on this boat with a M-19 which I had de pitched to an 18 pitch to get the correct WOT Rpm's , which gave me 42 mph . (89 Octane Fuel) 2015 I retired the ol' boy and hung a new F-200 4 stroke on the back, I took a very small amount of tip pitch off that prop an run the same one on the new motor ( 85 Octane fuel) and I get the same 42 mph top end. This is not a light boat, 2-N-Tow can tell you that, it carries 82 gal of gas and has 2 built in ice boxes & I added a live bait well across the transom. I'm a prop tinkerer, learned from RC Model boat racing. I shouldn't probably confuse you with this but it may help you understand a little, of the different blade designs. I had the opportunity to buy a brand new T Series prop for $100 15 dia x 17 pitch. I wanted to see the difference between the two. Stock prop, was too much blade area, so I reworked the blade diameter eventually down to 14" dia an ran it again, OK but 17"pitch wasn't enough speed at WOT. Came back to the bench an added some tip pitch (cupping to the tips of the blades) and I'm pretty much back at 42 mph WOT at the correct WOT RPM's. What's the difference between the two props, The M prop with less blade area and more pitch, takes a few seconds longer to hop on top, while the T prop with less pitch, but a little more blade area and some tip cupping, jumps right up but now still max's at 42 mph. That's usually the choice with standard out of the box props and you try to find the best of both world's as close as you can, but usually never 100% on both. If you want that you usually have to have them worked to match your set up . I'm sure 2-N-Tow knows the Old Prop Man's Theory...….. "Keep the diameter , increase the pitch" but really that's applies more to racing..... In reality, big heavy boats need larger blades , because larger blades push more water, and less pitch so they can turn some RPM's Anyway, you might want to play with the Yamaha Prop Selector chart, an maybe the store will let you try a M or T blade or both. (They don't like to because they are cheaper priced props $300 because they are not all fancy and shiny , just black but still stainless) Maybe try a M 13 3/4" x 19 or M 14.5 x 19 Don "The Dr. Ann" R-236
  2. Yes, I'm hope to see that too, especially since I have one of those... Still going strong !! Did some crusing this weekend and put 82 miles on her..
  3. OK, lets see what others think. Hopefully , we get some interests. Would be pretty interesting to see, how many are still going !
  4. Hey Two-N-Tow, After several conversations this summer with some of my boating friends, about our Old boats, I promised them I'd ask this question. Everybody asks,,,, How many of those boats still around, where are they located etc...?? So I had an idea that maybe it would be interesting and fun , if possible,,,,, to have a "Old Robalo registry page" added to this forum. Maybe we can get some responses to see if there is interest in this info.... and if you would have the ability to build this into the Forum ? The page simply could be called ; Register Your Old Robalo This could be boats of 20 or 25 years or Older Maybe it could be sub divided by boat length, to give everybody an idea of what model ( size ) boats are out there the most ... Info to enter could be ; Name of owner & location (City/State / Country) or just City/State/Country, if they don't want to put their name. 3 pics of boat with one being of the Registration plate (if available), one of the outside and one of the inside. Model of boat ; R236 & Year of boat Power type ; Ex; (2015 200 hp Yamaha Four Stroke ) or Mercury I/O 496 etc....etc... Just enough general info, to give us an idea of how many and where they are , who knows,,,,, somebody 3 blocks away from you may have one you don't know was there !!! I personally know that there are two other Old Robalo's in my general area that I have seen over the last couple years but don't know where they are located in the area. One is a R236 like mine and the other is the I/O version of the boat. What do you ya think ?? Don "The Dr. Ann" 1975 R-236
  5. 78 lbs lighter than the E-Tec G-2 I'm running this on a R-236 Cuddy great gas mileage . I get 42 mph with 2 people and full tank fuel. Running the Yamaha M prop - 13 3/4 dia x 18 pitch , motor out on an Armstrong bracket.
  6. Yamaha F200LB In-Line Four – Four Stroke Click For Pricing No Sales Tax in Delaware Engine Type 4 Cylinder Displacement 2.8L Full Throttle RPM Range 5000 – 6000 Alternator Output at W.O.T. 50A Compression Ratio 10.3:1 Fuel Induction System DOHC EFI VCT Ignition System TCI Micro Computer Controls Remote Mechanical Starting System Electric Shaft Length 20″ Gear Ratio 26:14 Approximate Weight 487 lbs
  7. Is there a thru deck fitting where the anchor rope goes thru to the rope locker ?? Mine had one, I got rid of it an put a 4 " sealed screw in hatch to drop the rope an chain thru. At times I was getting a little water under the side cushion storage from that dripping in the anchor locker which has a small drain hole to let the water drain thru to the hull. I can't see in the pics if you have anything like that, not sure if mine was factory or the guy before me added that fitting. Since I replaced that, I have never had any water there again... Other places I see you could check is that window hatch on the front of the cabin, make sure the frame is sealed to the cabin. You could try an check to find the leak by using water with some red food coloring in it. Dry out any standing water, then using a bucket pour it on one thing at a time an check the hole to see if any red water shows up.
  8. Hey, Sub Cool I forgot to ask because I don't remember seeing any,,,,,, You got any pics of your boat ?? Don "The Dr. Ann"
  9. It has the original aluminum tank, 82 gallons as far as I know. Strapped down , no foam. Tank is in very good shape, only thing I had to do was empty it and clean out some tarballs, I guess from previous owner using Cheap oil...…. When I did that I also changed out all the hoses and added the self venting fill cap.... No more overflow out the hull side vent running down the hull side an sometimes getting you on the way out...... I just mention this ,in case you need to clean yours up.... When I got mine, the windshield frame was just bare aluminum an had some corrosion pits... I first cleaned it with acetone on a rag, and then used a 320 grit wet/dry sandpaper to clean it. (Used acetone first, so that any oil etc that may have been on it got cleaned off first) because if you sand it without cleaning, you can actually rub in the oil and then maybe have problems with paint not adhering later. I then taped off all the glass areas and any adjacent decking areas, and painted mine flat black. I HIGHLY recommend if you do paint it to use Rust Oleum Industrial paint in the spray can. Don't use the cheaper regular RustOleum spray. Industrial is only about $1.00 more, but that paint is pretty remarkable in holding power ! That paint you see in the picture is the original job I did 23 years ago !! Honestly.. I have never had to paint it again. But remember, anytime you paint...… Preparation is Everything ! I am in Louisiana, so I fish and boat in Saltwater. Don "The Dr. Ann"
  10. Finally found some info...… Here's a link to a guy that got to do a sea trial with it.; https://www.mby.com/gear/oxe-200hp-diesel-outboard-engine-tested-51194 compared to a Honda 200hp 4 stroke ; Honda = 595 lbs dry OXE = 650 lbs. dry There's a price in the article too but I couldn't do the conversion, but he did say it would be more expensive than the regular outboards. Don
  11. Yes, I'm curious too..... Did a little searching but couldn't come up with any specs so far......
  12. Here's one more interesting thing,,, how easy it is to change your prop Gear Ratio !! WOW, just think of the various props you could use !! Watch this video;
  13. Hey 2-N Tow, Have you checked these out yet ?? These are pretty slick ESPECIALLY the shiftability !! and these are very quiet for diesels.... also,,, pay attention to who's diesel engine is being used ! Check these videos out ; Don "The Dr. Ann" 1975 R-236
  14. Sub Cool, As 2-N Tow said, I wouldn't panic at all. Agree with what he says and would add..... If it was Me and I just bought the boat, knowing there is a problem somewhere with the fuel system. First thing I would do is remove the Coffin Cover (Cover in the floor that covers the fuel tank), that way you can get a look at EVERTHING concerning the tank. There is a gasket between the fuel sender and the top of the tank that I would check first, they tend to get old and compressed after time an start leaking. These are inexpensive and easily changed. Also, make sure that the connections to the sender are nice an clean especially the ground. If not, your fuel gauge may work sporadically... Then while you have it all opened up, (which is not hard to do just remove the screws holding the cover down) I would, since the boat is old and you don't know if anybody has EVER serviced the fuel system. I would change the fuel filler to a self venting cap style , change the main fuel fill line and vent line. Also while it's open change the fuel line to a Coast Guard approved MARINE fuel tubing going back to the motor. While open you can also check around the tank area to see if there is any liquid in the coffin area, if there is and it is gas, then you know the tank may have a leak, if not just close it back up and you have piece of mind that all is in good order. I have a R-236 1975 model that I bought 24 years ago from a guy that was lucky he could spell boat...…. One of the first things I did was go thru the fuel system like this and put my mind at rest that the fuel system was up to par ! If the tank is OK then the cost of changing those few things and the little work it takes is minimal. Band aiding a fuel system is not something you want to do....
  15. Fretz, May have another idea to fix that problem, if you can send a pic or two of it. ?? I know the board is not the cheapest and if you have to get it shipped that will make it even more pricey !! Don - "The Dr. Ann"
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