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About asboats2002

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    Deck Hand
  • Birthday 02/14/1950

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    Boating, Fishing, Water Sports

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    75' Robalo Slickcraft 236

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  1. 78 lbs lighter than the E-Tec G-2 I'm running this on a R-236 Cuddy great gas mileage . I get 42 mph with 2 people and full tank fuel. Running the Yamaha M prop - 13 3/4 dia x 18 pitch , motor out on an Armstrong bracket.
  2. Yamaha F200LB In-Line Four – Four Stroke Click For Pricing No Sales Tax in Delaware Engine Type 4 Cylinder Displacement 2.8L Full Throttle RPM Range 5000 – 6000 Alternator Output at W.O.T. 50A Compression Ratio 10.3:1 Fuel Induction System DOHC EFI VCT Ignition System TCI Micro Computer Controls Remote Mechanical Starting System Electric Shaft Length 20″ Gear Ratio 26:14 Approximate Weight 487 lbs
  3. Is there a thru deck fitting where the anchor rope goes thru to the rope locker ?? Mine had one, I got rid of it an put a 4 " sealed screw in hatch to drop the rope an chain thru. At times I was getting a little water under the side cushion storage from that dripping in the anchor locker which has a small drain hole to let the water drain thru to the hull. I can't see in the pics if you have anything like that, not sure if mine was factory or the guy before me added that fitting. Since I replaced that, I have never had any water there again... Other places I see you could check is that window hatch on the front of the cabin, make sure the frame is sealed to the cabin. You could try an check to find the leak by using water with some red food coloring in it. Dry out any standing water, then using a bucket pour it on one thing at a time an check the hole to see if any red water shows up.
  4. Hey, Sub Cool I forgot to ask because I don't remember seeing any,,,,,, You got any pics of your boat ?? Don "The Dr. Ann"
  5. It has the original aluminum tank, 82 gallons as far as I know. Strapped down , no foam. Tank is in very good shape, only thing I had to do was empty it and clean out some tarballs, I guess from previous owner using Cheap oil...…. When I did that I also changed out all the hoses and added the self venting fill cap.... No more overflow out the hull side vent running down the hull side an sometimes getting you on the way out...... I just mention this ,in case you need to clean yours up.... When I got mine, the windshield frame was just bare aluminum an had some corrosion pits... I first cleaned it with acetone on a rag, and then used a 320 grit wet/dry sandpaper to clean it. (Used acetone first, so that any oil etc that may have been on it got cleaned off first) because if you sand it without cleaning, you can actually rub in the oil and then maybe have problems with paint not adhering later. I then taped off all the glass areas and any adjacent decking areas, and painted mine flat black. I HIGHLY recommend if you do paint it to use Rust Oleum Industrial paint in the spray can. Don't use the cheaper regular RustOleum spray. Industrial is only about $1.00 more, but that paint is pretty remarkable in holding power ! That paint you see in the picture is the original job I did 23 years ago !! Honestly.. I have never had to paint it again. But remember, anytime you paint...… Preparation is Everything ! I am in Louisiana, so I fish and boat in Saltwater. Don "The Dr. Ann"
  6. Finally found some info...… Here's a link to a guy that got to do a sea trial with it.; https://www.mby.com/gear/oxe-200hp-diesel-outboard-engine-tested-51194 compared to a Honda 200hp 4 stroke ; Honda = 595 lbs dry OXE = 650 lbs. dry There's a price in the article too but I couldn't do the conversion, but he did say it would be more expensive than the regular outboards. Don
  7. Yes, I'm curious too..... Did a little searching but couldn't come up with any specs so far......
  8. Here's one more interesting thing,,, how easy it is to change your prop Gear Ratio !! WOW, just think of the various props you could use !! Watch this video;
  9. Hey 2-N Tow, Have you checked these out yet ?? These are pretty slick ESPECIALLY the shiftability !! and these are very quiet for diesels.... also,,, pay attention to who's diesel engine is being used ! Check these videos out ; Don "The Dr. Ann" 1975 R-236
  10. Sub Cool, As 2-N Tow said, I wouldn't panic at all. Agree with what he says and would add..... If it was Me and I just bought the boat, knowing there is a problem somewhere with the fuel system. First thing I would do is remove the Coffin Cover (Cover in the floor that covers the fuel tank), that way you can get a look at EVERTHING concerning the tank. There is a gasket between the fuel sender and the top of the tank that I would check first, they tend to get old and compressed after time an start leaking. These are inexpensive and easily changed. Also, make sure that the connections to the sender are nice an clean especially the ground. If not, your fuel gauge may work sporadically... Then while you have it all opened up, (which is not hard to do just remove the screws holding the cover down) I would, since the boat is old and you don't know if anybody has EVER serviced the fuel system. I would change the fuel filler to a self venting cap style , change the main fuel fill line and vent line. Also while it's open change the fuel line to a Coast Guard approved MARINE fuel tubing going back to the motor. While open you can also check around the tank area to see if there is any liquid in the coffin area, if there is and it is gas, then you know the tank may have a leak, if not just close it back up and you have piece of mind that all is in good order. I have a R-236 1975 model that I bought 24 years ago from a guy that was lucky he could spell boat...…. One of the first things I did was go thru the fuel system like this and put my mind at rest that the fuel system was up to par ! If the tank is OK then the cost of changing those few things and the little work it takes is minimal. Band aiding a fuel system is not something you want to do....
  11. Fretz, May have another idea to fix that problem, if you can send a pic or two of it. ?? I know the board is not the cheapest and if you have to get it shipped that will make it even more pricey !! Don - "The Dr. Ann"
  12. Just wanted to ADD something I did during the project that made things a little easier when it came time to putting things back in the same place as they originally were. It also saved some time on finishing the project faster !! My next door neighbor owned his own Refractory business for 35 years. They did major work at all the Refineries in the area, relining Cat Crackers an towers. This was a trick he learned which saved them a lot of hours and $$…. Since we were doing a pour in transom job, we removed the bolts holding the Gil bracket on and wanted them to go back in the same place. So before pouring the Carbon Core in, we installed the bolts and nuts hand tight into the holes with washers on both side of the transom (inner & outer). The trick was to tape a 1" paint brush to a stick that we could reach down into the core and coat the bolts with "CRISCO" shortening for baking stuff. !! He said it works every time and perfectly as long as you spin the bolts an coat the whole surface. He was 100% correct !! After the Carbon Core cured, you could just take the nuts off and slide the bolts out, No drilling new holes an maybe getting one off center... then re-install the gil bracket or your motor if that's the case and it will be exactly in the same place it was when you started the project !! Don "The Dr. Ann" R-236
  13. Fretz, Don't know if this helps any , but you can get different sizes and thicknesses from them. www. boatoutfitters.com Check it out.. Don
  14. No, let's don' forget the Original thread, but your right in that a LOT of what I learned in those 27 years Directly applies to the real boats too !! Driving at first for most seems to be simple, UNTIL you were handed the Radio Control AND especially if you happened to run the boat back in YOUR direction , then most people panicked !! and lost all directionable ability. The TRICK was to put yourself inside the boat (as if you were sitting inside the boat driving it) that like magic, gave you the control ability back. As for the Hydro's, you can see the seriousness of that turn fin, which was also bent in towards the boat at an angle at eh riding water line, which helped to keep it hooked in the water so you could put them full bore into a turn an not have it let loose an roll over. HOWEVER, that bend line had to be correct or it would actually make the fin ride up out the water instead of holding down, an that would be detrimental. As for propellers and engines, I learned a heck of a lot about both, and worked my own propellers and motors. It's AMAZING what you can make a propeller do with the right modifications !! and that knowledge I also use to work my propellers on the Robalo ! As for engines, they were two stroke motors running Tuned Pipes. I had a book which was invaluable in learning about both and how they operated, it was like my Bible. I read that thing probably 5 times and referred to it many more. It was all about how the two stroke motor worked and how to improve it and the why's about what you did. It also taught you how a tuned pipe worked, the affects of the two cones and the stinger at the end and what pipe length did. TONS of knowledge. These are the same types of motors and pipes racing motor bikes are running, except ours were water cooled. A tuned pipe normally ran on two stages, but actually had three stages !! Most people could not get to the third stage though. I had a 20 size mono hull that I had worked to run thru the Straightaway Speed traps and had set up the pipe back cone with a water spray injection inside the rear cone, to cool the back end of the pipe thereby adding a extra compression ratio to the back wave which forced more flow thru fuel back into the combustion chamber of the engine right before the exhaust window closed..... When that boat got about 2/3rd's down the straightaway, that pipe kicked on the 3rd stage and blew the boat out of the water !! It was like hitting the Nitro button for that Extra horsepower.....and you could hear the sound change when it did it. Had to make some trim tab adjustments to keep the bow down for when that happened..... Drawback to water injection was , you had to keep some power on an not slow the engine down to an idle or the water filled that back end of the pipe too much an killed the engine.... Used that set up on a 20 size hydro for straightaway speed trials thru the traps and actually captured a World Record for a while..... Maybe somebody on the site belonged to the International group I did , it was a world organization called IMPBA (International Model Power Boat Association) I traveled around the US to race and my local club had several BIG races a year in which we had people from all over attend even one's from out of the country. OK let's don't forget about helping Fretz,, cause I could go on for days with this stuff, it was a fun and 27 year learning experience that I still use... Don
  15. Have to see if I can find any good pictures, I had hundreds of them , but lost just about everything in Hurricane Katrina ! And to think,,,,, I lived in a "NO FLOOD ZONE" !!?? Here's 2 not too good pics I found, but I'll see if we have any more better one's somewhere. The Mono hull (Oval Master Vee Hull) is 42 inches long, has a 90 motor (.90 cu. in. with a tuned pipe ) ran on 40% nitro fuel. Red,White & Blue metal flake colors in the gel coat (No Decals). Average speed around the 1/3 rd mile oval course was 50-60 mph (Actual mph ) The Hydro is one of the Avenger Hydro's (alias my e-mail address a (avenger hydro) s (spider hydro ) boats = asboats The Oval Master vee hulls came after I already had that address...… The Avenger is a 80 Twin 44 inches long , 12 lbs. (2- .80 cu. in. motors with tuned pipes ) ran 40% nitro fuel 70-80 mph, avg. 60-70 mph around the oval course. The hydro's were all built out of aircraft birch plywood, mostly 1/16"- 5 ply and 1/8"- 5 ply with 1/2" cedar hull sides, the cowling was made of fiberglass. Known as Outrigger Hydro's, they were about 7 years further advanced than the BIG Hydro's like the Miss Budweisers and Atlas Van lines etc.... Scaled MPH for our hydro's would be like 300 MPH !! Unlike like the big hydro's who had a small amt. of HP for their size and needed the lift of full decking, we had a LARGE amount of Horse Power and a small amt of weight !! So we needed to eliminate the lift of a full decking to keep them on the water.. Forced us to learn a LOT about Hydrodynamics, Aerodynamics and Ground Effects...…. Once the BIG boats got some good horse power, (Turbine engines) you started to see them moving more to our designs and removing decking. Today, the New design in Drag Boats is our Outrigger design...….
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