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mrrobalo

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About mrrobalo

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  • Birthday 12/17/1955

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    http://robaloboatowners.net/forums/
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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Grant / Oviedo
  • Interests
    Family,Fishing ,Boating, Helping others to get on the water again.

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  • Boat Type
    1969 ROBALO MARINE 19'

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  1. With egg on my face , I can’t lie, the engineers idea of this lamination schedule was to saturate the pieces of wood with resin both bottom and top then the first outer layer of mat gets in between them for strength. The second layup is woven roven and finishing up with another layer of mat. The thought was if one piece of wood gets rotten from un-caulked screws down the road it wouldn't spread around but 40 years later we found out that wasn’t such a great idea. The newer products we have now to build boats with make our classics dinosaurs but wouldn’t give mine up for nothing. Just a small hurdle for Barry as he has become quite the restoration tec s he has overcome a lot unforeseen challenges during his restoration.
  2. Welcome and thanks for taking. Stroll down our cyber docks. So find you. Boat and back on in a slip.
  3. I’m so proud of what you accomplished. I know what Dan said hit the nail on the head! Just seems like yesterday I was waiting in Aunt Catfish restaurants waiting to meet a guy from Ohio that was on the Forum. That was about 12 years ago and the friendship has grown every year. Going to meet Dan when I was in Virginia, going out on Lee’s boat and many more. I just talked to a friend I met when he came to our ROBALO OWNERS FISHING TOURNAMENT back in 1989. I remember back in the beginnings so many people asked me why don’t I charge people for my knowledge? Well #1 that’s just not me ,2 I wouldn’t have met so many others with a ROBALO that they are now enjoying it as it’s “ A LABOR OF LOVE PROJECT” She’s looking good brother and yes we will take it to the Salt Water. The sad thing about it is you got yours done before the DOTTIE Q . LoL !! I should have the 76’er done in a month or so. ( for the second time in 6 years) and we will be heading over after the pandemic calms down . Now it’s time for you to enjoy your retirement floating around waiting for a fish to bite . Thanks for the memories!
  4. Yep I had a guy find me that was local and he bought one that was reworked with a bracket and a 150 on it. The tank is under the console and he asked me to check it out. So Was only 3 miles from the house so I went to look at it, hooked up some of the wiring for him so I got his batteries hooked up and got it to run for him on the earmuffs. He was going to take it to the water but I was out of town that weekend. Told me the following week he couldn’t get it to stop porpoising At any speed. Told him the boats balance is off due to all the modification and he should use some coolers to see if the weight shifts would help get it to stop. He asked if I wanted to buy it but I already have more than I needed. Haven’t heard from him since. Sometimes one Sees another type boat and thinks Doing there’s like it. ::: BUT NOT SO MUCH !
  5. On my 69 we ran twin 70’s for a few re-powers And ran good, switched to twin Yamaha 90’s ( 17 pitch props) and ran by far the best. On the 70’s I couldn’t get on a plane with just one but I could with a single 90. If fully loaded for offshore and 3 people it would but if at all ruff it wouldn’t . I Could switch out the prop to my spare 15 and come on home.( never had to thank goodness ) if it were me I would not go any lower than 115 and would lean to a 140 ( a good used 2 stroke would be great I would think.) That’s my 2 cents worth.
  6. Dan , this is a ROBALO MARINE. ORIGINAL 19.with a built in fiberglass tank with Scott explosion proof foam installed in it. Looks like someone did some experimental inspection plates on her. Somewhere along the line something has been done as the ORIGINAL foam material had only one flaw and it was water.the water in the tank would Deteriorate the foam causing it to disintegrate and would clog Up the fuel filters. This would have started back in the late 1980’s. There were only a few of us that knew about the way to redo it and there isn’t a replacement foam that I know that’s available now . The Garvin and I were the only ones that have redone them to my knowledge without cutting the deck up.and putting in a alum replacement tank. I did mine in 1989 and 18 months ago Iran a camera down into my tank and #1 didn’t see any foam deterioration. And most importantly #2 the inside of my tank has gelcoat. Once I get the 76 restoration done I’ll bring the Dottie Q over and recheck her out before I start restoration process. My recommendation at this point is to first put a water separator filter and see if you get any of the broken up foam in it . If not someone has done some type repair and would send the scope down in it and post here or send me it to look at it. one way or another we will figure it out. Keep me posted.
  7. Welcome and thanks for taking a stroll down our cyber docks. I’m one for the Classics too, and if you need to know something don’t be afraid to ask that’s what we are all about. I assure you you have a tank and she will serve you well.!
  8. On my 1976 R190 I got from my cousin He bought a New 1999 OMC Johnson 150 FIChT With 20” shaft and now has under 200 hours on her. She ran good with plenty power out of the hole and top end but it stopped running in 1997. I had spent many hours testing her ( guided by a certified OMC Tec) and 2-N-TOW but could never get anything to work even hooking it up to the computer. She sat in the water during a hurricane and then 6 months after.( I had 2 surgery’s before I could get it out) Fast Forward to now ,I put it up for sale here in Fl and had No Interest ,and in the back of my mind I could hear PoPs saying rebuild her. Well it must have been a omen that it didn’t sell so I listened and the restoration is on. First thing First I knew the Transom would be raised to 25” and I did a poured in transom . So now to my Question::: The Budget for the replacement is around $4500.00. In that price range and the Teleflex Baystar Hydraulic steering rating of 150 hp ( which could be changed out if necessary ) that’s keeps it around 150 but would go to 175 for the right price. I’m passing down both ROBALO’S to my 2 sons so want to keep the boat speed safe.. So any recommendations will be appreciated. More importantly what to stay away from. Like the OMC that was on there originally parts are too hard to come by and used ,so I will part out it and could add to the budget. So any ideas ???
  9. I have seen so many custom boats in my years in the industry from 13’ Boston Whaler to 65’ Radovich and your 23’ ROBALO make me wanting to see more. I would love to see yours in person someday to look at your skills portrayed in your “EILEN“. Thank you for posting and pleas keep the pics coming especially with the decks bloody with that trophy Tuna.
  10. I can save you a lot of miles 🤩. We sold a lot in Texas . Check out there in the internet search engines .
  11. THIS IS A LITTLE FOOD FOR THOUGHT ? Where are you located ? Ask anyone who know me I’m more passionate about these boats For over 50 years and I’ll tell you the answer or find it ! I don’t know your budget but there are a lot of the older ROBALO’s for sale here in Fl and can be bought in the $ 500 - $ 2000 range with motor and trailer and accessories . The amount your going to spend on this boat will be one hell of a lot more then that plus you can restore them fairly quick ( NO COMMENTS ABOUT MY OR Barry’s ( Firs-timer) RESTORATIONS TIME PLEASE LOL) The reason I am bringing it up is the lack of original parts MISSING/CUT OUT that is going to requiring major time and materials to remanufacture them. I have restored and repaired a lot of boats over my years ( heck I’m doing 3 right now) and can tell you the amount of time it takes is going to be 4- 5 times longer then if you get one that has almost all of the parts verses the way your boat is now. i don’t want to sound like a Debbie Downer I just want YOU TO GET ON THE WATER FASTER ! We will be here for you either way but one needs the passion & patients and this projects will push them to the limits ! PS I love your BLAZER , GREAT VEHICLE !
  12. The inspection plate is over the in floor fish box. You should look and see if it has a drain hole in the bottom. If it does attention is also needed . IN FLOOR FISH-BOX DRAIN PLUG HOLE REPAIR : On the older boats 1969-1993 the in floor Fish-box drains are the major item that allows water to enter the hull. There is a brass through hull tube put in at the factory when being built. On most boats it will allow water to drain on the trailer but more importantly while under way when cruising as it acts like a syphon but on some it fills up as it all depends on how your boat is set up ( motors weight differently) TO ELIMINATE WATER INTRUSION you need to replace the brass sleeve with a threaded metal through hull Fitting with the flattest head possible First put bow down as low as possible a day or so before you start repairs. You see the sealant used by us is usually wore out and the lip of the brass sieve acts like.a little scoop while at faster speeds wearing down sealant and the water pushes its way between the hull and liner. To eliminate this problem you are first going to use a hacksaw blade with a handle to cut the plug between hull & liner so you to use a chisel to knock it out of hole. Then take a a large Allen key ( or a piece of metal in that shape) put it on a drill and make sure you Eliminate any foam around the hole.( MAKE SURE IT IS DRY IN THERE BEFORE PROCEEDINGS WITH THE REPAIRS.) Now get some type of putty ( Like MARINE-TEX ) ,your going to use tape on the bottom to seal the hole and then mix putty and start putting it in the hole pushing it around the opening to pack it in and around the area so when it cures you can then drill through it and it will be A solid Part between the hull & liner. Next use 3M 4200 sealant on the new threaded thru hull And with someone’s help tighten it up. (If the thru hull is too long precut it before installing it ) raise bow and your done, replace sealant every 5-6 years.
  13. Installing a GARBOR DRAIN IN ROBALO . Purchase the brass garbor drain first.from Amazon >>> The ROBALO’s from 1969-1985 did not have a garbor drain that’s what they call the hull drain at bottom of hull ) you will need to make it and should be the first thing you do . The process is simple and goes like this: Installing a >>>>>>GARBOR DRAIN IN ROBALO <<<<<< First jack your trailer as low as possible in the bow and let it sit a few days if possible .Purchase the brass garbor drain first.>>> Make sure you have a drill bit the size of the plug hole. Drill the hole first then once your through the hull seal the transom hole with 5 minute 2 part epoxy to keep water out of transom . Then use a piece of rebar to put into the hole and start to push it in & out to open up a pocket inside of the foam. No need to worry nothing will get hurt inside the hull. Vacuumed the foam out as you go. Look at the foam should mostly be white , if it is tan you have water in the hull and this instal will help eliminate it. The foam is a closed cell foam for marine use. This means the Its not suppose to hold water.the only way it absorbed water is if the foam has been cut opening up all the closed sell foam bubbles effected by cutting it. It is like a room full of balloons water will sit on top but the water can’t get into the balloons below the top. Once this is done instal the new garbor drain pre-drilling the 3 screw holes. Use 3-M 4200 liberty inside the screw holes as well as around the collar on the drain. Instal the garbor drain and let cure overnight. Then raise the bow with a small bucket under the hole on the ground >>>>> “AS HIGH AND SAFE AS POSSIBLE!”<<<<< Let it sit this way as long as you can the first time taking noteof the amount of water that comes out. Leave the plug out when storing the boat from now on. So there you go YOUR FIRST ASSIGNMENT you should do and let it stay that way until next month when you sta
  14. Wow , As all know I’m into the classic’s but this is going to be a real challenge. The previous owner must have really been mad at it. The casting platform should have been one solid deck with the opening in the vertical front .Check out the transom by taking a making a few 1/4” holes like 2” above the bottom in 3 places and then a couple around where the motor goes and then remove the U bolts and USA a all and see if any rot around them. The hull is a great performing one that’s a lil wet but is built like a tank. Measure from the deck down to the floor saving the measurement. If you plan on redoing the deck raise it 1-1/2 “ taller so your scuppers will be higher as the weights of outboards are heavier than back in the day. If the transom needs rebuilding go with a pour type and raise it to fit a 25” Motor ( I’m doing that as I’m typing on my 1976 . If you need to redo it I’ll give you some tricks I learned these last few weeks. You can go through my posts The DOTTIE Q and The 1976 and see a lot of rebuilding I did in the past and I’m again redoing the 1976 for a second time . But contrary to previous builds the finish goal is to take it to the island in July so I’ll be Buzzy And having been in Quarantine I had no better thing to do then rebuild 2 boats ( And Boat 2 wasn’t the DOTTIE Q but another type I bought and finished) I’ll try to keep up with your build along your way.
  15. Looking good Barry. The warmer Florida weather makes working on the boat a lot easier. LoL. Been getting itchy working on the 1976 during this Coronavirus Quarantine , trying to get it back in the water this summer, but will have to come see you first.
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