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Everything posted by 2-N-TOW

  1. Transom came out nice! Did you finish it with gelcoat or paint? And lets see some pictures of the 2018!
  2. Hi Chester and welcome to the forum. I think it was 2001-2002 time frame, just after Chaparral purchased Robalo. If you are a member on TheHullTruth, send a pm to Joebalo...he is one of their reps on that site.
  3. Hi Mikbrew - Start a new thread under Restorations and Custom Projects. Include pictures so we can better understand what is being worked on. Looking forward to seeing your project!
  4. Good choice on the chainsaw. I had not even considered that....bet it made short work on that foam! Have you decided on a poly or aluminum tank?
  5. Hi RobaloDC - Our classified section is not that big and will mainly be 2005 and older boats. The factory Robalo forum may be a better source for the year boat you are looking for. As for how to find that boat, you have already discovered these are not normal times for boat buying. Check with your local Robalo dealer and see what he recommends. They may be networked with other dealers that can notify him when a Robalo comes in for trade-in. Other than that, keep checking sites daily. Wish I had better ideas than that. Let us know how the search goes.
  6. What I have is a longer version of that seat at the transom. I had Birdsall Marine fabricate an aluminum base that has 2 quick disconnect hinges so I can either remove it easily or drop it down flat against the transom. I will pull it out in the next day or so and set up so I can post a picture.
  7. Those pictures are great! Can you post some pictures of the seats you have in mind? Are these going to be permanent or removable? I got some ideas, but need to be sure I understand what you are looking for.
  8. I would think the cable should be able to rotate so the bar connected between it and the tiller arm where the bar connects to the motor would not be in a bind. I can check on this a little later this afternoon and get back to you. If that steering cable / bar has been fine up until recently and was previously centered in that cutout, the only thing I can think of is the motor has shifted back some. Look at the engine bracket that bolts to the transom and see if it there is a gap between the bracket and transom. If so, check the the upper and lower bolts that hold the motor to the transom and see if they are loose. Once tight, that should pull the motor up so the steering assembly is more centered in the cut-out.
  9. Have any adjustments been made at the helm or changes to the steering tube mounted to the motor? Seems odd this has worked fine until now if nothing is different.
  10. Robalo2120 - Going from the 17 to 19 inch prop is going to cut your max rpms by 400. That 250 should be able to spin the 19 at around 5800-6000 rpms, though. I can turn my 225 right at 6,000 with a Michigan 19" 3 blade. Check your motor height to be sure it is not too low. Cavitation plate should be 1 to 1 1/2 inches above the bottom of the boat and on plane the top of the plate should be exposed like this....
  11. Due to the bracket throwing the balance off a little, mine tends to run a little bow high. On slick calm water, it is perfect for hitting close to 50 mph, but I only do that at the end of the day for a minute or two just to "blow out the cobwebs"! Trim tabs are a great addition. In 1-2 ft swells/chop, I drop the bow down just enough so the vee is cutting through the waves instead of hitting the bottom mid-ship. This makes the ride much more bearable and smooth. I have ran in 3-4 ft swells with greater than 10 second period using the same trim settings. Get caught in nasty weather, though, put the bow down and make enough headway so it is manageable. Most of the time, just on plane. Be prepared to work the throttle a lot to deal with the waves. On a following sea condition, stay in front of the swell. If the swell catches up to you, handling goes away and you are at the mercy of the wave. By the way, these boats prefer a little chop. Slick conditions and the boat tends to "stick" to the water so you have to run a little more throttle. Chop breaks the surface tension and the boat just seems to handle better to driver input. Kind of hard to describe, but you will figure it out after a few times. Another thing, make darn sure the motor is mounted at the correct height. Cavitation plate should be 1 to 1 1/2" above the bottom of the boat. When on plane, the top of the cavitation plate will be above the water. Here is a picture of mine: Too deep in the water, performance will suffer and it just does not handle all that great due to lower unit being too deep in the water. Once the height is correct, then play with props so you can hit the recommended max rpm for the motor.
  12. Hi Mike and welcome to the forum! Please post some pictures of your boat! Is the kicker pulling fuel from your main tank or off a portable one?
  13. Hi Surv and welcome to the forum! I have a 1988 2160 and love the boat. I think the bottoms are the same deadrise. The 2140 is more geared toward fishing as it does have a small walkway along the sides whereas the 2160 you have to step onto the gunwhale then the cap. Both are going to tow about the same but these are heavy boats, so don't expect to get great gas mileage! The ride in both will be similar. Trim tabs are a big help to assist in keeping the bow down to cut through swells instead of bouncing off the tops....this will make the ride much more comfortable. As for power, I previously had a 150 on my boat...it got the job done but was not all that enjoyable. Re-powered with a 225 and it was night/day difference! Based on that, 225 is the minimum I would run on these hulls. Hope this helps. Let us know if you need more info!
  14. As weird as this market is now, list at highest NADA value. Spend a couple hours giving it a good cleaning, then list it yourself first on Craigslist, Facebook MarketPlace, and THT. I decided to sell my Kubota 3200 tractor 2 months ago. Cleaned it up, added up what I had paid for tractor, trailer, and all implements 4 years ago and listed it with lots of pictures at 10:00 Monday night. Tractor was sold for asking price the next day by 8:00 am. The used boat market is still strong...just make yours stand out from the rest when you list it.
  15. i dunno...looks like you did a damn good job! Was this the first time you have ever done it? How long did it take? One piece for each side? Gotta tell us more as that looks to be a great alternative to repainting. What prep work was needed prior to installing?
  16. Yes, the tank can be removed. Yes, it is encapsulated in foam. The foam hold the tank in place and also acts as an adhesive. To pull the tank out, the bond between the foam and tank has to be broken. Some members have used a pressure washer to blow the foam out; it is fast but messy. The other method is digging it out with any implement that will fit between the tank and coffin box sides. For the bottom, get a cable saw or similar tool to run along the bottom. Rig up something so you can run some ratchet straps around the tank and over some 4x4 resting on the gunnels and apply pressure. i am guessing the tank in the boat was bare aluminum and not coated. Wet foam against bare aluminum is not good. If you get a new aluminum tank, coat it with coal tar epoxy to prevent further corrosion. If you can source a comparable poly tank, no corrosion issues to deal with. Hope this is enough to get you started.
  17. Hi Spare Parts and welcome to the forum. Does your boat have a fuel/water filter between the tank and motor? Did you get an error code on the motor indicating water? Approximately how full is the tank now? Easiest way is to find a 12 volt fuel pump. Disconnect the fuel line at the primer bulb and attach to suction side of pump. Attach a 16-24" piece of fuel line to the discharge side of the pump and then connect leads to battery with the pump and fuel tank as far as possible from the battery to avoid any sparks. Pump fuel into 5 gallon cans. Next question is to determine the source of the water. Check your gas cap to be sure there is an o ring present on the cap or fuel filler neck to prevent rain water from seeping in.
  18. I am not sure what they used when during the 90's. What I found in my '88 was a foam core, similar to divini-cell. The way your liner is constructed. I would think coring goes across the floor and stops where the floor transitions to the steps. If the floor continues under the bunks and the bunks are a separate fiberglass piece, the floor will extend over the the side of the hull. When you cut the floor, remove the top fiberglass skin using an oscillating saw, then inspect the core. If the core can be easily removed without having to cut the underlying glass, remove and replace with like material. This will keep you from having to get down into anything below deck. I have never seen the stringer/bulkheads in the forward area of these boats, so no help with that. I think it would be a great idea to have an inspection port to check for trapped water. I would install it near the bilge pump As for re-installing the deck, if the old deck comes out easily, re-use it. I would also go with a permanent install as this is something that should not be needed again.
  19. Nice seeing ya out there today. We worked the area just behind the shoals and caught 3 ribbon fish. Fish #2 managed to have a little payback on me. As I went to grab it behind the gills to remove the hook, it turned and raked its teeth across my left hand pretty good. Got 3 fingers and my palm. Darn blood everywhere! Finished getting the fish unhooked and wrapped my hand with an old rag, then kept on fishing until we were tired of fighting the swells. Decided to head inshore to try for red drum, but could only catch sea mullet and pigfish. Glad to hear the trailer is fixed. Have a safe trip back home!
  20. I hear ya! Yesterday was beach day so I could help my son launch the hobie from the beach. Slick water and little wind. Was hoping to hit the ocean today until I rode to the beach at 8 this morning and that north wind had the water whipped up good! Even too rough to launch the kayak from the beach and fish the offshore wreck. Planning on trying again tomorrow. Heard there are spanish macs and ribbonfish just south of the inlet. I forgot to warn you about those sand bars on the outgoing tide! Been there...done that! Fortunately caught it in time to push off the flats after everyone was off the boat!
  21. Sorry to hear about the trailer. Manteo Marine is a good place. I have a spare hub / bearing assembly at the beach house but no brake parts. Let me know if you need it. How you do on the clamming? Did you go on the sand flats down around the bridge? Rain was unreal...pumped about 10 gallons out of the cuddy cabin on mine this morning. I don't know if I will get out tomorrow as my son wants me to help him launch his Hobie 14 off the beach. If I had been smart, I should have headed out today once the morning showers cleared out. I hope Thursday works out and will try for ribbonfish and spanish mackeral just outside the inlet.
  22. Looks like you got all the basic things to replace covered. Do the trim pumps act like air may be present...if so check level or at least inspect o rings on fill ports. Smart move on going back to the recommended Champion plugs. Don't know what it is about Champions, but they seem to work better on these 2 stroke motors. Boat is real clean for that age...great find! Also, where are you located, those pictures are awesome.
  23. Scuff any wood residue off the inside fiberglass skin with a 36 grit wheel. Good choice on resin. 1708 biaxial fabric is the favorite one. I used the 45/45 bias material instead of 0/90 when i did my boat and it has held up just fine. You can go with the 0/90 bias if you want to maximize fiber orientation vs strength, but the 45/45 is great for all around usage. I over did my layup and went with 6 layers inside and outside so the fiberglass skin would match the original glass thickness. This was way overkill. 3 or 4 layers of 1708 will be more than strong enough and finish with a layer of CSM on top to give a sacrificial layer for fairing. Allow first layer of fabric to wrap onto surrounding sides and bottom 10 inches; second layer 8 inches; third layer 6 inches and fourth layer 4 inches. Tabbing for where stringers butt up against transom....3 layers will be sufficient. No need for CSM anywhere that is going to be hidden. Calculating amount of fabric and resin is going to be based on your measurements. Allow 20% for any errors, waste, and other needs. Lots of good information here... Let me know if you have any questions.
  24. Is this when you are anchored up? Have any mods been done to the boat such as adding a transom bracket? Can you post some pictures of the boat at rest in the water so we can see where the waterline is on the transom?
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