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Robalo Boating Forum


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About 2-N-TOW

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  • Birthday 08/31/1961

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    Suffolk, VA
  • Interests
    Boats, fishing, doing stuff with my 2 boys and sharing life's adventures with my wife!

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  1. You may have to loosen the other leg on the front to get enough wiggle room. Plus, it would not be a bad idea to re-seal that one, too, as it is a good chance it may cause issues in the near future.
  2. There is no flat gasket between the hardtop flange and boat. Remove the bolts and see if you can raise the flange up a little to shoot some polysulfide sealant like BoatLife caulk or a marine silicone. Be sure to get it so it extends back from the edge of the flange to the bolt holes. Ideally if you can keep the flange about 1/8-1/4" above the boat for 24 hours to allow the caulk/sealant to cure, this will insure there is a good seal between the two pieces and all be eliminate the chance of squeezing all the sealant out from between the pieces when tightening it down.
  3. I hear ya on the tuition. Thankfully that is behind me now (finished up a year ago), but still have a little balance to finish paying off where mom and dad had to "subsidize" a little more than expected. Make it a point to check back frequently...I may need to bounce some ideas off ya regarding these metal boats. The bad thing about this is it got me thinking it would be nice to have a second "small" boat for running into shallow water down at the beach. Plus it did not help when my brother got a deal on a 14 ft john boat with a 25 Yamaha. He says the metal boat goes out 5 times more
  4. Talk about a voice from the past....glad to hear from ya again. This damn thing has gone in a totally different direction the last few weeks. Now I am looking for a 12 or 14 ft john boat to put this on. People are asking almost new prices for 20 year old aluminum boats! We shall see what comes of it or I just go ahead list it and move on to something else.
  5. If you get a chance, do a test run with the old prop so you have a good baseline at the current height. I really thought with raising the motor that much the rpms would have been better. If you see the same rpms with the old prop, then the tach is suspect.
  6. You have good weather this weekend for testing it! Did you notice any differences between that beat up aluminum prop and this one? One thing to "warn" you about, stainless wheels tend to have a little more cup on the trailing edge of the blade than the aluminum wheel. That cup makes the blade more efficient in moving water as that trailing edge will act as a higher pitch prop the last 1/2 inch of blade. And to add even more confusion to this, if you get a wild hair to try a BRP Rebel prop, go 2 inches less pitch or it will hold rpms down as those props have a much more aggressive blade
  7. 2-N-TOW

    93 2440

    Hi Steve and welcome to the forum. Sorry to hear about the tree. Those parts are going to be hard to come up with. Two places I can think might have something are Marine Liquidators and possibly Great Lake Skipper.
  8. At least it is a good start! Glad to hear you were able to use the trailer jack to move it. It can sound a little intimidating reading it, but is really very simple and easy as long as you plan it out and not completely remove both bottom bolts once the top ones are out. Let us know how it runs once you get that last bit of height increase accomplished...I think you will see a noticeable difference. BTW...does it have an aluminum or stainless prop?
  9. If you run into any issues, let me know. Worse case, drag the boat to my place and we can pick up the motor with the front end loader while messing with the height.
  10. No backing plates on mine; just washer and locknut. You should be able to raise that motor if it is sitting all the way down on the transom. The top holes on the midsection have holes every 3/4", bottom has a slot. If the motor is all the way down on the transom, bottom bolts should be at the top of the slot and I hope the top bolts are in the highest hole. Motor can be easily raised by lowering trailer jack some, then put blocks of wood under lower unit skeg. Back out top bolts so they are just inside the transom and out of the way of the midsection. Loosen the lower bolts just enou
  11. Your right...today was nice out! Glad you got on the water. The motor should be able to turn up to 6,000 rpms. Have you looked at the motor height? Cavitation plate should be 1 to 1/1/2 inches above the bottom of the boat when the trim is neutral. If too low, boat will drive like a pig and rpms will be too low. Low rpms on those old 2 strokers needs to be able to hit close to max to cut down on potential carbon build-up in the piston rings. I ran a 150 on my boat for a number of years. It was no speed demon, but would top out at around 35 mph. What a difference when I moved u
  12. Black to ground. Surprised the other wire is silver; was expecting either pink or red. Anyway, this one goes to gauge.
  13. If buffing the gauges doesn't work out, hit Ebay. I had the same scenario where the sun had my gauges looking like crap! Found a guy on Ebay that was selling 2 complete sets of OMC gauges. I made an offer on one set and got everything (System Tach, trim gauge, fuel gauge, voltage and water pressure gauge) for around $100. Had a problem with the voltage once it arrived, so he said he would send the other voltage gauge. On a whim, I offered him $50 for the other gauges and he accepted! On a scale of 1 to 10, these were 9's.
  14. If not working, check the sender unit on the motor first. It should be on the mid-section, visible when the motor is trimmed up. Will look like a small lever that touches the part of the motor trimmed up from the mid-section. These are know to get stuck due to salt water and not getting rinsed off regularly. See if you can move it by hand. If sticking, a shot of CRC-656 will free it up and help lubricate the shaft.
  15. I apologize for the trim gauge being "backwards". This was grabbed from an Australian web site. Most trim gauges show up on the left and down on the right. Anyway, the top example is close to what I am referring to as neutral trim. Ideally, when the trim gauge is pointing straight up, the engine is trimmed is such a position that the prop shaft would be parallel with the bottom of the boat and pushing the boat straight ahead. Any adjustments needed to the running angle, once on plane, would be with the trim tabs.
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