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Robalo Boating Forum


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About 2-N-TOW

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  • Birthday 08/31/1961

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    Suffolk, VA
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    Boats, fishing, doing stuff with my 2 boys and sharing life's adventures with my wife!

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  1. Hey 2-n-TOW,

    You seem to have a lot of knowledge and maybe your wisdom can help me with my water issue I bought a 1997 2540 Robalo in the fall of last year. The boat has been converted to a leisure boat with some seating in the stern.   I have a water issue when I am anchored and have a lot of weight near the stern of the boat.  When the water level gets close to the rub rail on the integrated platform I seem to take on a lot of water.  This boat came with 4 scupper valves, 2 that go somewhere up front and two that come from the mid section of the walk around and they all meet coming out the bottom of the swim platform.  The boat was designed for fishing however has since been converted to a leisure for my use as I spend a lot of time anchored hosting a couple people with the weight near the back.  As I am using the boat inland on the St Lawrence River I wont be taking on wave water too often if at all , just rain water.  I'd like to fill the scupper holes in the bottom of the platform in and direct the lines from those scuppers to my main automatic bilge.  If I were to do that I  would add a small automatic bilge within the integrated swim platform that takes water to my main automatic bilge.  The water appears to be coming in from these scupper valves and up the lines and having the reverse effect of what they were designed for.  Do you think I am on the right track or could water be entering the boat behind the rub rail somewhere? Any help would be greatly appreciated as I truly love this boat.  Thanks for your time and i look forward to hearing from you.



  2. Can you make one these work with the existing platform: https://www.wholesalemarine.com/boating-marine/boat-pwc-accesories/boat-ladders/platform-ladders.html Hopefully, Robalo did not have a special size made for their boats.
  3. Hi Subfreq23 and welcome to the forum! Nice looking older boat. I have said this before, but this year we have had a lot of new members with boats from the '70s. Just goes to show these things are built to last. 1972 R190 bare hull weighed 1700 lbs. Here is the link to the specs: Go ahead and start a separate thread for your new boat...makes it easier for us to keep track of different boats when looking back at prior responses. Would also like to see more pictures of the inside and the console.
  4. When the boat is on the trailer, with the bow raised as high as possible, does it constantly have water draining out of the garboard drain? What size motor is that? Where are your batteries; in the transom or under the console?
  5. Some questions to ask: 1. What was the reason for a rebuild on one motor? 2. Compression sounds good, but bring a buddy and check behind them. If you know a marine mechanic, see if he would give each motor a quick inspection for a couple of Benjamins. Rather be safe than sorry. 3. How many hours on the motors? 4. If you do a sea trial, those motors better be able to run 5600-6000 rpms at wide open throttle. Anything under that is putting an unnecessary load on them and they will build up carbon in the cylinders. Ask if they are using semi synthetic or synthetic 2 stroke oil. 5. Ask about the wiring harness being replaced...what was the reason? Look at that motor's harness to be sure it is not a patchwork with electrical tape for backyard connections. 6. Look at the top of the fuel tank through the inspection hatch over the fuel sender. Any standing water? Does the top of the tank look ok or is there signs of surface corrosion? Ask if the tank is original or has been replaced. 7. Go over that steering system thoroughly. It appears to be a Teleflex No-Feedback system and not hydraulic. See how difficult it is to steer at speed. Most boats now have hydraulic steering.
  6. Have you considered putting a slight radius on the top to help it shed water? Would not be too difficult to do..cut a few plywood forms to lay under it. If you do this, fiberglass the bottom of the top first while it is laying flat with 1 layer of 1708 and mat. Once it cures, you can set this on the forms, fiberglass side down, then run some wood screws through the coosa along the edges to pull it to shape. I would go with stainless screws. Once screwed down, pack some wax or clay into the screw hole flush with the top of the coosa, then do your 2 layers of 1708. Once set up, drill a hole over the screw hole, pick the wax out and remove screw. Don't be too fast to fill in the hole, though. You can now re-use that same hole to pull the top down onto the pilothouse sides for a temporary hold. Tab the inside together, remove screws again, then use a router to cut a rounded edge. Now just glass over the side and roll onto the top, then fun time grinding/sanding to fair it all in!
  7. Welcome to the site and nice looking boat! What year and model (2 stroke, 4 stroke, or injected...not sure as there was different Johnsons available in the late 90's). Here is a good link on some things to look for. Let us know if you have any questions and we will do our best to help out.
  8. For whatever reason,2 strokers almost always have lower compression on the bottom cylinders when compared to the rest of the motor. I would not worry about that at all. I am with Richard on this one...you can do way better than $2k. Changing it out yourself is not that difficult, if you want to tackle it. I can talk you through the process as it should be fairly close to how I drop my lower unit on my 2003 Evinrude.
  9. The beauty of fiberglass! It is so easy to fix a screw up once you get past that initial reluctance of "full steam ahead!"
  10. I hate hearing that about the motor. Pull the plugs and see if you can identify the cylinder that is bad. Also try turning it over by hand and see if you feel any hard spots. Next would be to pull the head off that side and get a visual on the damage. I would recommend first looking into repairing the existing powerhead if the damage is not too bad or look for another used 250 Etec. This would save some money on not needing to change out the rigging and instrumentation.
  11. Check with a local marine canvas shop. They should know someone local that could fabricate the bows so they could make the fabric top. You could also try this: https://www.nationalbiminitops.com/ I have had no dealings with them, but might be a good starting point.
  12. Just trying to help some. Trust me on this...when I did the whole rear end of my boat, I would get on a roll and think I was making a lot of progress. Only after I had finished a few steps, would look back at what I had accomplished, then have a WTH moment when I realized there was something that could have been done better or was accidentally missed. Even then, I had a lot of comments and suggestions from forum members that would make me stop for a moment and re-think some of my logic, then realize they might be on to something.
  13. Hi Josh and welcome to the forum. No, you should not have water on the rear deck like that. For a quick short-term fix, I would stuff a foam ball or something similar into those deck drains so you can enjoy the boat over the weekend. Also, this will give you a chance to see if the water is seeping into the bilge through the deck inspection hatch. If the deck stays relatively dry and bilge pump is still running, the leak is more than likely below the water line. Start with the garboard drain plug in the transom. Is it leaking? Easiest way to check this is put the boat on the trailer, then install drain. Fill bilge with water and observe for any leaks. Also look for any other thru hull fittings at or below the water line that could be potential sources of water. One more area to check is where the hull cap attaches to the hull at the transom, under the rub rail. Sometimes this was not the tightest joint and the factory used a sealant that over time could crack or fall out. This allowed water on the side of the hull to blow in the gap while running. Consider getting some ping pong ball scupper valves for the outside of the hull deck drains as these help a lot, too. https://www.boatoutfitters.com/flow-max-ball-scupper-clear?gclid=Cj0KCQjw0YD4BRD2ARIsAHwmKVk_GJl7kofLNqmyd7xP5fyIDvaA9b2ky8i_mE6QpcPTcOJumIokyCwaAkmaEALw_wcB
  14. Don't complain about the long cure stuff if the temps are above 80 degrees. If you want to glue those panels together fast, bond them with Gorilla Glue. Once it sets up, the expanded glue is easy to sand. I heard of this from some of the custom Carolina builders for assembling divinicell coring material for consoles and enclosed transoms. You can speed up the set time on the Gorilla Glue by dampening the ends of the coosa with water as moisture is what makes it kick off. Consider adding a layer of mat on top of your 1708 both outside and inside. This is nothing more than a sacrificial layer for sanding smooth and will help fill in the fabric weave on the 1708. In theory, sand the mat and never end up damaging the fibers of the 1708. For the hard top bracing, how about cutting a 4" pvc pipe in half and use that for the strong back? The strength will be from the fiberglass over top of the pvc, no wood or rot potential, and the void can be used for a cable chase for anything you might want to mount on the hardtop.
  15. Do you already have the frame and are just replacing the fabric top? If so, anybody with a heavy duty, walking foot style sewing machine should be able to duplicate the existing top.
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