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2-N-TOW

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About 2-N-TOW

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  • Birthday 08/31/1961

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Suffolk, VA
  • Interests
    Boats, fishing, doing stuff with my 2 boys and sharing life's adventures with my wife!

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  • Boat Type
    R2160

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  1. I use West System. Any decent one will work (Raka and TotalBoat are a few others). Make sure what hardner you get if working in cold temps...West System has a tropical hardner for warm weather and you don't want to accidentally use it when temps are in the 50's or it will take a loooong time to cure!
  2. The wood core was originally glassed in. Over time moisture has worked into the wood and the bond to the glass has been compromised. Don't think it is just your boat; I have the same thing going on with mine. First thing I would do is remove as much of the wood around the hole as possible if there is any sign of rot. Tape off any holes on the underside, then get some epoxy and mix it with cabosil to make a thick peanut butter consistency and pack it in the area the wood was removed. It has to be thick enough so it will not flow...needs to be like a thick paste. Pack it in there the b
  3. Don't be shy about asking questions, not matter how silly you may think it is. Heck, it could end up saving you some un-necessary work. Looking forward to seeing your progress!
  4. I hate silicone! Two ways to do this. Get some 2 part epoxy from Lowes or HD (the stuff that sets in 5 minutes) mix it up and paint the bare wood in the holes. You may need 2 coats to get a good seal. Second method is a little more involved. Overdrill the holes. Cover bottom of holes with tape, then fill holes with a thickened epoxy mixture (cabosil is perfect for this - mix to peanut butter consistency). Fill holes and allow to set up overnight. Next day drill holes to proper size in the center of the epoxy plug. When sized properly, there should be about a 1/8 to 3/16" ring
  5. If the fuel tank is in good shape, blast the heck out of it with a pressure washer then coat with coal tar epoxy. That will keep water off the tank and stop any corrosion. Everything you need to know about improving the drainage issue where you see standing water under that black inspection port: The fishbox thru hull fitting causes the leaks and most of the time it is where the sealant around the fitting has dried out and cracked. Dig out the old sealant on both the inside and outside of the hull, then re-seal. Worse case, you may have to remove the thru hull fitting in order to
  6. That is a decent fuel burn rate for that motor. When I had a carbed 150 Johnson, I figured it was about 1.2 mpg. Granted, that little 150 worked it's butt off pushing the boat, though!
  7. They are nothing more than a cover to catch the abuse of fishing and stepping on the boat. Underneath is fiberglass the same thickness as the glass behind the coaming pads. There is a strip of wood glassed to the underside of the gunnel; that is why it feels uneven. Just be sure to seal up any holes so water does not soak into that wood core.
  8. Is the spreader light switch on dash panel, too? Are you seeing the 12.9 when you ground to the same bus bar or different ground location? Check the condition of the primary ground wire going to the bus. Sometimes the wire will gradually corrode at the crimped connection and cause a high resistance.
  9. No problem on the mess! I get the fact you guys are stuck inside somewhat during the winter. Are you able to access the underside of the gunwale at all? The previous owner of my boat had a Penn downrigger mounted in about the same location and he was able to get some heavy stainless fender washers with one side cut down over the 4 bolts, then used lock nuts on them. If you could fabricate a 1/4" aluminum backer plate for under there, that would be better. Are you considering removing the cover boards and not replacing them once the downrigger base is in place?
  10. That registry is doing great...thanks for pushing this idea through!
  11. So right on the wipers and keys. We knew which ones in the school parking lot our keys fit and would randomly move them around before school got out. I did many long range trips back then before I finally moved on to bigger cars.
  12. Hi Maritime and welcome to the forum. Trying to locate a bench style seat that will work with the existing leaning post location might be a challenge. See if there is a local marine upholstery shop around and get an estimate. Then compare that price to the Springfield seat West Marine sells (would require some re-work for a substantial bottom to mount to the existing posts.
  13. Green wire is a bonding wire for connecting all metal parts together.
  14. I think the original teak cover boards were replaced when that splash wall was installed. Other than staying on top of looking for any cracks in the transom or floor that could allow water to seep into the core, get a motor on it and enjoy it! Funny you bring up bugs....my first car was a '67 VW with a 1500 cc engine. We figured we could buy bugs cheap, re-build the engines and do the body work and paint. Made enough doing that to buy some fun toys when growing up. They were fun to work on since there was nothing complicated. Re-building a baja body bug back then and we had the
  15. Name: Dan Location: Suffolk, VA Year: 1988 Model: 2160 Power: 2003 Evinrude 225 Picture of hull id number: CROAN251G788 Picture of boat capacity plate: too faded to read Pictures of boat:
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