Jump to content
Robalo Boating Forum

2-N-TOW

Members
  • Content Count

    4,758
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About 2-N-TOW

  • Rank
    Root Admin
  • Birthday 08/31/1961

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Suffolk, VA
  • Interests
    Boats, fishing, doing stuff with my 2 boys and sharing life's adventures with my wife!

Previous Fields

  • Boat Type
    R2160

Recent Profile Visitors

2,000 profile views
  1. 2-N-TOW

    1976 230 slow rebuild begins.

    Ok John, now you have me scratching my head. So you are saying the transom has a slight bow in it? I don't recall Robalo ever building a hull with a curved transom. I suspect what you are seeing is the effects of a weak transom being run over time and that aluminum plate was not adding any strength to the transom at all. As the old transom core dis-integrated, the weight of the motor caused the transom to bend. An easy way to confirm this is check the inner skin of the transom...I bet it is straight. The inner and outer skins would have been parallel to each other, separated approximately `1 1/2 inches by the 2 layers of 3/4" plywood. The bend would also cause issues where the motor is bolted to the transom in that unless you had a flat area where it bolted in place, the engine bracket would not lay flush against the outer skin. I would re-install the skin flat against the core with no bend in it.
  2. 2-N-TOW

    1976 230 slow rebuild begins.

    You are correct in that smaller boats sometimes did not have a thru-transom drain. The drain should have a plug. This is what I have on my boat: https://www.go2marine.com/product/388236F/sea-dog-captive-garboard-drain-plug.html?WT.srch=1&WT.mc_id=gb1&utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=productfeed&utm_campaign=googleshopping&gclid=Cj0KCQiA6JjgBRDbARIsANfu58GtxsHl6LaXb8-N4GcCLtt4Kb_kb6w1eDBUdB9rtymX5scD4P-bHG0aAhshEALw_wcB The nice thing about this type is the plug cannot be lost like a typical drain plug. As for cutting the back layer of glass off to prep the inside for a poured transom, that is not unusual at all. Removing the outer skin allows for a more thorough cleaning of the internal surfaces. Just be sure to leave at least a 2" flange around the perimeter when you cut the glass so when re-attaching the skin, you will not have to deal with glassing around the corners where the hull side and transom meet. Regarding the fuel fill location, trying to find a picture of a 1976 boat is going to be hard. I would think re-locating the fuel fill to the gunwhale would be a good option, then you would not have to build a flat vertical area into the side of the console for the fuel fill.
  3. 2-N-TOW

    console rebuild wish list

    I have sprayed a few gallons of gelcoat thinned with the DuraKote additive. DuraKote recommends a 50/50 mix with the gelcoat, but based on what others have said on different forums, try to keep the mix %60 gelcoat 40% DuraKote to get a more gelcoat rich coverage. The finish will have a slight orange peel appearance. I did some wet sanding with 400, then 600 grit wet/dry, followed by 3M SuperDuty Rubbing Compound, then polish. A decent gelcoat gun runs $90-100. I think the gun has a 2.5 mm spray cap. After every cup mixed and sprayed, clean the gun with acetone or the old gelcoat will cause the next batch to kick prematurely and you then have a mess (speaking from experience...DUHHH). Now, if this does happen and you cannot clean the gun out of all the congealed gelcoat, stop and concentrate on cleaning the spray cap and fluid needle. Now, go buy the purple Harbor Freight spray gun for around $15, then switch the fluid needle and spray cap over to the new gun. You are now back in business! And yes, I have proved this works after one of my screw ups trying to run 2 cups of gelcoat through the gun while it was 85 degrees outside!
  4. 2-N-TOW

    1976 230 slow rebuild begins.

    Should have only been one garboard drain in the transom. And I agree with ya on the aluminum plates...they really don't add any strength to the overall structure, just covers up the problem for a while.
  5. 2-N-TOW

    console rebuild wish list

    Your right that Mini Craft is good on having the original formulas, but they are proud of their stuff! I ended up just going with plain old white when I re-did my transom. You can see some difference between the transom and hull sides, but it is close enough for me. Are you going planning on using DuraKote when spraying the gelcoat?
  6. 2-N-TOW

    unstable at speed

    Hi Martin and welcome to the site! Need to ask some questions to see what is going on. 1. What is the total horsepower on the transom? 2. How fast are you running when it starts acting unstable? 3. What is the rpms when this happens? 4. When the boat starts acting up, how are the motors trimmed (up, neutral, or down)? 5. When slowing down, does the bow drop rapidly and it acts like it is trying to turn sharp (called 'hooking") like the bow is trying to steer the boat? 6. Is the boat rocking port to starboard then back when unstable? Does it feel like it is trying to balance on the centerline of the hull at the transom?
  7. 2-N-TOW

    1974 230 CC Restoration Project

    Even better now we can see the pictures. That has got to be the biggest set of trim tabs I have seen on a boat that size. Honestly, larger is better as it will have more impact on water flow when making adjustments and will also help when getting on plane by making the hull bottom appear "bigger" and help pop it up. Boat looks darn good. Keep us posted on all work as we love this stuff!
  8. 2-N-TOW

    1974 230 CC Restoration Project

    Hi and welcome to the site! Looks like there is an issue when you attached the pictures as we cannot see anything. Can you re-post them? Curious to see what you have to work with.
  9. 2-N-TOW

    Bahamas 2018

    Beautiful! Glad to hear there was a lot less drama on this trip. That water looks like it was dyed that blue...I have never seen it that deep on my few offshore adventures.
  10. At least you have a nice warm place to work on it over the winter (gotta find the positive stuff!)
  11. 2-N-TOW

    Back on the water!

    Since you brought up Smith Island, I put Dad on this nice one between Smith and Fisherman's Islands. Caught on a whole menhaden drifted just off the bottom in 10 ft of water. It took him over 10 minutes to get it to the boat. It was fun when the big ones made it down this way...hope to see it happen one day again.
  12. 2-N-TOW

    Back on the water!

    The Robalo has not seen much activity the past 6 months due to my recuperating from brain surgery and the darn weather being terrible the past few weekends. I saw a break in the weather for today and put both the wife and my son Tyler on notice that I was taking the boat out and try to do some fishing! I was able to prep the boat after work just before Thanksgiving and checked with the local tackle shop for any pointers on where to go. The "rumor" was that stripers were being caught at the bridges on the Elizabeth River using Stretch 15's. I bought a couple of them, tossed some 4" white shad bodies in the tackle bag, and a few 12 ounce weights just in case I got the urge to troll some 3 way rigs. Trailered over to Portsmouth City Park and launched. First stop was the Churchland Bridge. Only one other boat there. He was anchored up on the upstream side drifting bait back to the pilings. We decided to hit the downstream side. I rigged up both trolling rods with the Stretch 15's, tossed them in, and had Tyler keep the boat close to the bridge. We had good marks but could not get any takers after making multiple passes. No problem, there is another bridge 2 miles down river, so off we go to the West Norfolk Bridge and start trolling again with the Stretch's. Marks on the fish finder were not as plentiful here as the Churchland Bridge, but we gave it a few passes and nothing again. Ok, lets change things up a little and try a simple tandem rig. This is made up of a 3 way swivel with the main line on one eye, a weight (we were using 12 oz weights) on the second eye, and a 4" shad tied to an 8 ft 30lb leader on the third eye. The nice thing about a rig like this is you have more control of the depth of the lure instead of relying just on the lip of the lure. Swapped two of these onto the trolling rods and tried some more, but still no love. Water is calm, no wind and lots of sun, so I pull in the lures and tell Tyler to run over to the Norfolk Marine Terminal and we can try the pier. It is about a 5 mile run, but the ride was fantastic. As we are getting closer, I am seeing lots of boats congregating in the small area I was thinking of, so we went to plan B and headed over to the Hampton Blvd bridge next to the yacht club. Looked like a few other people were using this as their backup plan, but we did see some good marks on the bottom of the channel. Figured we would make a few passes then troll back to the main shipping channel. As we were coming up on one of the channel markers on the Lafayette River, Tyler spotted some dolphins messing around. When we got closer to them, the boat must have got their attention and they came over to investigate. It was neat watching them until they appeared at the back of the boat, then we scrambled to crank in the lures so we did not accidentally hook one. Still no fish in the boat at this point. I figured we could try one more place over by the Portsmouth Marine Terminal, and to get there we had to cross a 55 ft deep shipping channel. As soon as we got over the deep water, the bottom machine lit up with good looking marks! Pulled the throttle back, tossed the tandem rigs rigs in, and started heading up the channel, all the while keeping an eye out for any commercial traffic. As we came up on the Navy Degaussing Station, water depth goes from 55 to 40 ft real quick. As we crossed that bottom contour, both rods started bouncing with fish! Tyler reeled in one while I reeled in the other. Stripers YES! Only problem was the lengths...one was 19" and the other 17". We needed a minimum of 20" to be legal. At least we caught fish and here is the proof! All fish were released unharmed to hopefully grow up! At this point we decided to call it a day and head back in. If I fish the same area again, I will be tossing my ocean trolling tandem rigs in the bait bucket. These are heavier rigs and allow me to run a 24-30 oz mojo rig off the bottom eye. This cuts way down on the amount of line I needed to have out in order to get those 12 oz weights to the bottom. And a final note, no ill effects from being on the water for 4 hours other than kicking myself for leaving my sunglasses in the truck!
  13. 2-N-TOW

    Access hatch near stern

    Hi FamilySam and welcome to the forum! I don't have a 2660, but when I changed my boat over to an enclosed transom, bilge access was one area I changed. I ended up making a custom access wide enough I could get my head and shoulders in to do work. For your question, Bomar is the only manufacturer I know of that makes waterproof hatches. Look at pages 27 and 28 on the following link to see what sizes and types are available. http://bomarinc.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/Bomar_Catalog.pdf
  14. 2-N-TOW

    1995 Robalo 2660 Loses Speed As Season Goes On

    Here is an idea that might work. Build a fiberglass box that goes around the motor and seals off the splash well from water coming in through the transom notch. The dowside is you lose the ability to quickly drain any excessive water that may come over the bow. Here is a picture of a Conch hull with the box:
  15. 2-N-TOW

    1995 Robalo 2660 Loses Speed As Season Goes On

    On a boat that size and weight, a single engine is way under-powered. I am guessing you have reduced the pitch a good bit to make it work on one engine and still get into the max rpm range. Any growth on the bottom is going to create enough drag to have a big impact on performance since that 225 is already maxed out. The comment about cavitation with the motor trimmed all the way down makes me wonder if the motor could be raised one or two holes. When too deep, that is a lot of drag from too much of the lower unit being in the water and it will pull air into the water just in front of the prop, causing cavitation. When you get a chance, trim the motor neutral and run a straight edge from the bottom of the boat back to the motor. Ideally, the cavitation plate should be around 1 inch above the bottom of the hull. Does your boat have splashboards that can be raised just in front of the motor and help keep water from getting on the deck? A lot of the older Robalos had them made out of teak. I had one on my 2160 and it helped control the water in a following sea condition. Once I converted it to a full transom, it was no longer needed.
×