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2-N-TOW

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About 2-N-TOW

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  • Birthday 08/31/1961

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Suffolk, VA
  • Interests
    Boats, fishing, doing stuff with my 2 boys and sharing life's adventures with my wife!

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  • Boat Type
    R2160

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  1. I like the plate on top. Could you fabricate 2 plates to go under it? Those stainless washers are probably fine, but I like spreading the load over as big an area as possible (this coming from a person that can break stuff that should not break!)
  2. Hi Todd and welcome to the forum! Nice looking boat. Wish the previous owner had contacted me; I would have been more than happy to have kept the hour meter spinning each year and keep the cobwebs off the boat! That is a nice looking boat. Let us know what you did to get it back the way you wanted it.
  3. If you are concerned about adding height to the front and back skins of the transom and relying on the coosa for a base to work against versus laying up skins to be glassed back for a poured transom, the work and effort are going to be the same. You are still going to have to deal with tying in the front skins to the sides of the wet well area. The joints will be identical and same applies for doing the rear skin. I made new skins for my transom by laying 1 layer of csm and 5 layers of 1708 biax cloth on a waxed piece of tile board so I had a flat panel to work with. Once set up, cut
  4. Hi Don and welcome to the forum. Those Mercury's weigh 460 lbs each; the newer Yamaha's are 592 lbs each. Overall weight increase of 264 lbs. Looks like you already have the motors hung on the boat. Best way to check is put boat in the water and get 3 people standing at the transom. If it is a problem, before moving the scuppers, get some of the ping pong ball valves to go over the scuppers so water cannot enter when they are below water level.
  5. I saw his sander last week and was thinking it would be something handy, too! Let us know how it holds up. As you say, it is not a Makita, but those crappy brushes in the HF tools seem to never wear out, regardless of how dirty the work area is. I found the switches are what go first. But for this kind of work, HF tools do the job and you don't feel bad if it gets trashed! Where the transom pocket narrows from bottom to top and you want to go with the Coosa coring, I would probably install the first layer of coosa to the inner skin, then let it set up. Be sure to use wedges to push i
  6. I think this is beginning to make sense after seeing that picture of the motor and what you are experiencing. Motor is acting like it was way too deep. As the boat comes up to speed, the bullet (section the gears are in) on the lower unit is forming a big area of disturbed water in front of the prop. As a result, the prop is not getting clean water to run in. When you are trimming the motor in, the thrust of the prop is directed somewhat down and it is pushing the boat up at the transom to get it closer to the proper height. Trimming in may also be allowing a little cleaner flow of water
  7. 2" above the bottom of the hull is on the high side. Looks like there is room to play with height both up or down, but would be nice to have a better view when out of the water. See if you can take a look at the motors when running next time to see if the cavitation plate is above the water when on plane. Trying to locate lower unit gear ratio for that motor is like an Easter Egg hunt! I am going to guess it is 1.75:1 for now. Something is way off. First plugged the numbers in for the screen shot of 4300 rpms at 23 mph and came up with 39.33% slip: Changed the rpms and
  8. Ok...that one will need to be done with the brass tube so you will be able to use a standard boat drain plug. Here is a link to the flaring tool: https://www.jmsonline.net/moe-02070000.htm/ If this is your first time doing it, might as well figure on getting a few brass tubes. First time I tried, I mangled 2 tubes before I got it right. I was using a homemade flaring tool and that may have contributed to some of my issues. Here is a link on how to install the tubes: https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/document.do?docId=1022&title=Installing+Drain+Tubes
  9. Hi Karlthman and welcome to the forum. Is that the drain for the battery box? Time for a new brass drain tube if you want to re-do it as it came from the factory. Google brass flanged garboard drain tube for the part. To install it, you will need the flanging tool, too. An alternate method if this is the battery box is to drill the existing tube out, find a section of pvc pipe / tubing that is close to the hole size. After the old tube is drilled out, good chance there will be some damp wood core behind the fiberglass. If possible, let it air out for a few days and see if it
  10. No apology needed...we all started out just like you! Neutral trim - prop shaft is parallel to the bottom of the boat. This is going to sound kind of odd, but do not initially trust the trim gauge on the dash until you have first established that the above condition exists, then confirm the gauge is indicating. There will be some times either the gauge or the trim sender unit on the motor need to be adjusted to show the correct position. Without tabs, you are correct in running a little negative (down) trim so the prop thrust pushes the bow down some. Also, with a load in the boat
  11. Nick - Try this site: https://theplasticsguy.com/boat-windshields They have a lot of the TaylorMade molds (TaylorMade was original OEM for a lot of boat manufacturers). Another option, if you still have the windshield, is check with a local plastic supplier and ask if they can make a new one out of acrylic using your existing windshield for a mold / pattern.
  12. Hi Peter - First thing that jumps out in your post is you have to trim up, yet drop the tabs. If your gauges are correct, the down on the tabs to drop the bow is offsetting trimming up on the motor. Ideal conditions would be the motor trimmed in neutral position and tabs all the way up. Only time I use down tabs is in a head sea condition to get the bow down so it can cut through the waves instead of the waves hitting the bottom mid-ship, unbalanced load in boat, or adjust for quartering sea conditions. First thing I recommend checking is engine height. With the motor trimmed neu
  13. When you put the boat on the trailer, are you seeing a lot of water draining from the garboard drain? The three places that water can be getting into the hull is either through the two drains in the transom or that thru-hull fitting that appears to be blocked off on the centerline of the hull bottom. As for trapped water, on boats this old, I do not know how or if they were foamed beneath the coffin box (but am assuming the answer is yes). Take a look at this post: See how far you can get a piece of re-bar through the drain and forward to see if any debris is preventing water f
  14. Our web hosting site released a new update that resulted in some changes to the overall appearance of the web site and back end enhancements to their cloud service. Let me know if you run into any abnormal issues.
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