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Robalo Boating Forum


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About 2-N-TOW

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    Root Admin
  • Birthday 08/31/1961

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    Suffolk, VA
  • Interests
    Boats, fishing, doing stuff with my 2 boys and sharing life's adventures with my wife!

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  1. Super Stock...loved watching them and their bigger cousin, the K boats! Super stocks were impressive on acceleration with that naturaly aspirated motor, but when the K boats hit the water with those super-charged motors you could almost feel the exhaust pulses from that raw power. The better drivers in the SS boats could hold the throttle the length of the straights and just barely feather it in bigger turns. K boats...it was all about who had the bigger set of b@##s. The acceleration was insane and I don't think they really wanted to max out the motors and hurt them. Plus, they were constantly backing off then getting on the throttle in the turns to keep the boat in the water. Get on it too hard and the back end would "walk" sideways!
  2. I know exactly where you are coming from on the cost of closing the transom in versus being able to recoup the cost. I have already come to the conclusion there is no hope in getting that back. I probably have around $12k tied up in upgrades....reality is if I sold it today I would be lucky to get $5k. I just remind myself how much enjoyment I have gotten out of it and figure that dollar amount of fun offsets the money I have thrown into it over with the re-power and renovations. Glad to hear our speeds are that close. And that is comparing a 2 stroke carbed motor agains my injected 2 stroke! Only difference is the better fuel burn rates. The good thing about your motor, though, is the simple design and ease of repairs, if needed.
  3. Hi Alex and welcome to the site. I have been using a SeaStar system for 14 years and the only repair has been a new set of seals for the cylinder. This is an easy repair with the SeaStar kit. What kind of issues are you having with the livewell; pump burning out?
  4. Nice looking boat! The enclosed transom and engine bracket make these boats run like a much bigger boat. It is a lot of work to run the additional tubes under the floor. An alternative could be to make up some type of box or tray that would attach to the bottom of the bottom of the gunnels to better hide and support all the cables. You would still have them visible where they make that bend going into the transom unless you also had a fiberglass box made to fit that area above the box at the transom. If you decide to sell it, I don't think you would have a hard time considering how clean it looks. Out of curiosity, what is the top speed with the boat? Since I am also running a 225, the best I have seen with a light load is 50 mph on the gps.
  5. I replaced part of the floor on my 2160. Figure on one dedicated rigging tube for your fuel line. As for all the stuff that runs from your console, it is best to install 2 rigging tubes so you have plenty of excess capacity for future runs. 3" pvc is what I used. Click on this link and it will show you a lot on the 2160...this was my rebuild. http://www.robaloboatowners.net/archives Part of it covers the rigging tube installation along with the partial floor replacement. Let me know if you have any questions!
  6. Here is one picture where I certifiably lost my mind! I am in JS-30. I am guessing this was back around 1988. Our boat club would put on a 2 day race that was a joint sanction with outboards and inboards. The first day was ran in the Inner Harbor between Norfolk and Portsmouth. Water would be rather rough, fine us in the tunnel boats but not so good for the inboarders except one class, the Jersey Speed Skiffs! Spectators love seeing these boats run! These are 16 ft fiberglass hulls based on the rum runner boat designs used during Prohibition to smuggle alcohol from boats anchored off shore in the New Jersey / New York area. I think they ran a small block Chevy motor. Two people rode in the boat; driver on the port side and riding mechanic / passenger on starboard side. On the floor between the two people is the prop shaft, then each person had an exhaust tube running just outside of their feet. Since the driver had a steering wheel to hold onto, the other person had a handle on the forward bulkhead and one on the deck next to them to hold on to. These drivers had no problem running in the rough water but their normal riders were reluctant to get beat up, so they would ask if any of us outboard guys wanted a "ride". Sure, why not! Let me tell you now, no amusement park ride comes close to experience these boats give ya! First, the acceleration is unreal since they are flat on the bottom. They jump right up on top of the water in an instant. But, that flat bottom also had a down side. In rough water, the waves were constantly hitting that flat area and launching the boat. The entire length of the straight it was constantly launching, landing, and launching again. But, this was not the best part of the ride. The sides of these boats (chine) is a rounded edge where it blends into the bottom. When it comes time to turn one of these crazy machines, it is a lot like a USAC sprint car. I don't know how the driver does it, but he is working that wheel in both directions in order to get it to turn left. Then, on top of that, when these boats turn, they will roll up on their sides. Most of the time it is on the port side, but there were a few times when my elbow was dragging in the water where it would sometimes flop over on the other side just for the heck of it! Honestly, I had a blast riding in them and did it every time a rider was needed. And one final note, this was all before roll cages were mandated in these boats. Other than being fiberglass instead of wood, these boats were identical to their original design. Top speed was around 75-80 mph I think, so they were no slouches on the water.
  7. Welcome back! Let us know if you have any questions regarding your search for another Robalo.
  8. Hi Steve and welcome to the forum. My guess is it is a custom install. Probably done when the transom was replaced. What year is the boat? Can you post some more up close pictures of the inside of the transom?
  9. 2-N-TOW

    R207 rust

    Hi Windy and welcome to the site! Sorry to see those rust stains, especially on a new boat. I am not sure where the factory sourced those u bolts from, but my suspicion that is not 316 stainless or 316 with some impurities. Good chance the corrosion is only along the edges of the backing plate where it was cut from a larger stock sheet. You can ask your dealer if this would be considered a warranty item, but I kind of doubt it. Or, if they balk at replacing it, see if you supplied new ones would the dealer swap them out. If they agree to that, get the new hardware from Gemlux. As to what to do with the stain, I would try some rubbing compound on the fiberglass, then wax. Make sure the stainless plate gets waxed, too, to help keep the salt water from the metal. An alternative would be to run a bead of marine sealant around the plate, but that should have been done when they were installed. Let us know if you have any questions.
  10. 2-N-TOW

    2640 engines

    Hi Rich and welcome to the forum. Weight difference between a 2 stroke and 4 stroke for 2005 is just under 100 lbs per engine. Would the current owner allow you to stack 4 60 lb bags of sand on the back of the boat so you could get an idea of how it would be affected (assuming they are 2 stroke on there now). Other than that, you may have to tuck the engines a little to get up on plane or install a set of trim tabs if it does not have any,
  11. It would be great if there was a way to bring back all piston powered boats in the Unlimited class. I get it that the turbines were the next step in technology, but I think we lost some of the fans when the "thunder" went away. The sound of an open exhaust V-`12 when firing up and then at max rpms was like crack to a drug addict!
  12. It is about time! Spring season should have stopped a long time ago when everyone realized these were females full of eggs being removed from the population. I would be fine with a shutdown for a few years of the fishery so they could have an opportunity to recover. For it to be done correctly, though, the shutdown would have to apply to all coastal waters these fish migrate through. And I would love to see the net and menhaden ban happen. With the netters, maybe even consider cutting their season by 50% so they could still earn some money, but the menhaden reduction fleet needs to be eliminated altogether within the 3 mile line and Chesapeake Bay. I would love to see fishing again like it was back in '08. When I tell others from out of this area what it was like, they are blown away with some of the stories. Hopefully we will get another chance to experience that again.
  13. Yeah...sounds like someone had a good idea but never followed it through to completion. Check for any available water tight inspection ports or access hatches that may fit the opening. These can be screwed into place once the hole is cleaned up to fit the hatch. It will still give you access to the space under the deck to pump collected water out but still be able to close it off so it is not a trip hazard. Other than that, fill it with some 2 or 4 lb two part foam, trim the foam so it is below the existing fiberglass, grind a good taper on the old glass, then lay multiple layers of a biaxial cloth over the opening so the joints overlap the taper you ground on the original glasswork. 4 or 5 layers should be thick enough and be sure it is as close to flush with the original glass when finished. Rough sand the glass with 36 grit then fair with marine grade putty. Sand smooth, then either paint or gelcoat for your finished surface.
  14. What I am referring to would be the floor of the boat. These boats are built as 2 pieces; the hull and the cap which contains the deck, front console, floor, and inside sides of the boat. Sounds like the previous owner cut a hole there to get out any water that was trapped between the foam and the bottom of the hull. When you get a chance, can you post a picture of it?
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