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2-N-TOW

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About 2-N-TOW

  • Birthday 08/31/1961

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  • Gender
    Male
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    Suffolk, VA
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    Boats, fishing, doing stuff with my 2 boys and sharing life's adventures with my wife!

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  • Boat Type
    R2160

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  1. Hi Jared and welcome to the site! I also have a 2160 with the bimini top and considered going with the hardtop. Problem is there are very few 2160's out there and almost all are bimini tops. The previous owner of my boat had a hardtop on the 2160 and someone decided they would like it for their boat and removed top, pipe work, and motor from his beach house. The only alternative is to talk to a local fabricator about doing the pipework, then build the top how you want it. Just be sure to size the tubing to allow enough room for the wiring to run in.
  2. 6 1/2 year old thread brought back to life...this may be the record yet! I would probably go back to the existing thru hull instead of relying on it draining to the bilge. Change out the existing fitting for either a stainless or marelon fitting. Also, I am not sure if your fuel coffin has a drain at the back that drains into the bilge, so the reason for not recommending that. When you dig the foam out up front, check the limber holes up there for any debris blocking them. You may need to get creative and have some type of channel between the inside of the hull and the foam along the lowest portion of each compartment so any trapped water has a way to drain to the centerline and out to the bilge.
  3. NserSFL- Great to see a classic still looking that good. I am assuming it has had a renovation previously done to it? Any idea how many hours on that Mercury? Those old motors were strong and have a nice sound when running wide open!
  4. Maybe with no fuel, batteries, and motor trimmed up! Motor down...better add another 8-12 inches.
  5. Anybody know why they are discontinuing it? Facebook has its place, but forums seem to be better suited for tracking specific topics and projects. It would be nice to see some of that traffic come back here, though. BTW...I am open to any suggestions to make this place better suited for you!
  6. Yep got my letter. Looks like we might get a little more busy.

  7. Anybody else get this email from the Factory Robalo forum?
  8. Do you have any speakers mounted up front? If so, take one out and see if you can work thru that hole to run a stiff wire to the pulpit area.
  9. Poly will be fine...was just throwing the vinyl out there as an option, especially if you were considering epoxy. What are the plans for the top of the transom? Just a flat area or are you going to construct some type of livewell / cooler arrangement? If livewell, height is fine as you can add to the bottom of the lid structure so it sits at the same height as the gunwhales. I personally like having the transom the same height as the gunwhale. Adding a piece to the top of the existing coosa board is no big deal since it all gets glassed over. When you install the coosa, be sure to make up a thickened mixture and load up the radius on the hull side and bottom so when you bed the coosa in it, there are no voids. This will also allow you to pull a filet where the second board meets the hull and bottom, making it so much easier when glass over the radius of the filet instead of trying to do a sharp bend from the transom to the hull. I forgot you were going with the full transom when I replied yesterday. Take a look at your stringers and plan on extending them back to the transom at the full heigjht. This will help stiffen the transom and also give you some support for the floor when installed. I made some filler blocks from coosa to extend my stringers to the transom.
  10. You cleaned it up real good. Are you planning on re-installing the wet well? You also need to scuff the fiberglass about 8" back where the stringer ends at the transom so it can be tabbed back into the front of the transom when putting it all back together. Just hit the surface of the glass enough to give it a rough surface for the tabbing to adhere to. Also, extend the rough sanding forward about 8" from where the transom core will end to allow for tabbing all around the transom to the hull on both the sides and bottom. Use the edge of the grinder to get into that area where the transom transitions to the sides, too, all the way to the top. This makes a much better surface to bond to. Another thing...where the stringer will meet the transom after it is glassed will need a limber hole to allow any water that is on the outside of the stringer to drain to the bilge. Probably the easiest way to address this is after the transom is in the boat and all tabbing complete. Then drill a hole as close to the bottom of the stringer as possible and either glass in a piece of pvc tubing to seal the hole from the wood in the stringer. That swiss cheese looking fiberglass around the transom cut-out...cut it out now. What is your plan for attaching the core to the transom skin; epoxy or resin? If resin, use vynilester as it has much stronger bond properties than polyester. I used vynilester and mine has held up very well over the years. Once that bond between the core and old skin is complete, you can finish up with polyester as it is compatible with vynilester resin.
  11. Do you have a path from the console to the underside of the gunwhale you could run a new wire for the bow light? This is the only idea I can think of. You will need to screw some of the zip tie style wire looms to the underside of the gunwhale to support them.
  12. Spearo - Just thought of something. Join the Facebook group Robalo Boats USA and ask the question there, too. That is a group we created back when we set up this sight years ago. They get more traffic during the winter months.
  13. Hi Nick - I hope Mr Robalo sees this post after the holidays to see if he recalls how the wires were ran during assembly at the factory. I suspect the wiring was held in place with plastic looms attached to the bottom of the hull liner prior to installing in the hull. After that, the foam injected between the hull and liner would have encapsulated the wire all the way back to where it exited from under the liner and entered the console.
  14. Hi Rocdboat and welcome to the forum! We do not have a copy of the 2000 owners manual. The closest thing I can locate is a 2004-2007 Owners Manual. The information should be very close to the 2000 version. http://www.robaloboatowners.net/manuals/2004-2007-RobaloManual.pdf By the way....nice looking boat!
  15. I hope everyone has a Merry Christmas!
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