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Robalo Boating Forum


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About 2-N-TOW

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  • Birthday 08/31/1961

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    Suffolk, VA
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    Boats, fishing, doing stuff with my 2 boys and sharing life's adventures with my wife!

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  1. Hi Henry and welcome to the forum! Can't help on info regarding the 35'. Most members over here have older Robalos, but we are seeing more people on this site with the newer ones, especially since the holiday break when it appears the factory site had some issues. Hopefully, someone else might have some information that can help you out.
  2. Have you noticed any fuel odor around either the bilge or the inspection port over the fuel sending unit? Any water showing up in the water/fuel seperator filter? These are normally symptoms of a tank issue. With yours being a 2013, I would not be expecting it to have any issues yet. As for what size replacement, without removing the coffin lid and measuring the current one, you can try contacting Robalo Customer Service. I found their parts diagram for you boat and on page 23 it has the tank part no (46.00172). Here is a link to the parts guide for your R180: http://www.robalo.com/publications/uploaded_files/partGuides/2013/180.pdf
  3. I see what ya wrote! I should know if a week or so if I will be in Orlando the 1st week of April. For the floor it will need some coring. If you could find a quality piece of 1/2" fir plywood, that would be the first choice. Next would be any 5 ply AB plywood other than that crap Lowes and HD sell that has a paper thin top layer (1/64" I think). Lay the plywood in the opening and see how close to flush it is. I am thinking it may be just below the surface of the existibing floor. If too high, grind the outside 2" down so the core is approximately 3/16" below the floor. For layup schedule, one layer of 1708 is all that is required for the bottom side. Prior to laying the fabric on the core, coat it with a layer of resin first and let it sit 5-10 minutes so the wood can absorb the resin. Then lay the fabric, wet out and roll. Go ahead and coat the edges of the plywood at the same time as they will need 2 coats of resin to seal off. Set aside and let cure. Flip over and sand any drips from coating the edges. Sit back in recessed area and see if it is still slightly recessed. Grind back 3" - 4" back on the existing floor to get the proper taper prior to lay-up. Paint the raw edge of the core and set in recess. If there is a substantial gap between the core and existing floor recess, mix up cabosol / resin and pack it in the crack. Now hot coat the top of the core and let sit 5-10 minutes, lay the first layer of 1708 fabric on the core and extending to the top of the taper, and wet out. Lay second layer of 1708 on top and maybe 1" shorter along the edges of the prior piece and wet out. Finally, finish out with a layer or two of 1.5 oz mat extending out to the edge of the taper, wet out, and thoroughly roll out to remove any trapped air. Let set up, then start the fun part of fairing in! Remember to take your time when pouring the foam. That stuff has some pretty good expansion rate. It is better to do small batches until you get a feel on how much it will fill. Once you get it close to the top of the recess, take your core material and tape a piece of plastic to the bottom and sides. Make your final pour and set the core on top prior to it expanding, then weight it down or stand on it for 10-15 minuted to keep if from rising. This will keep the top sealed. If you decide to not go that route, after the foam has solidified, cut it back flush and paint the top of the foam with resin to seal the surface.
  4. Welcome back! Time for you to find some time in your busy retirement and start using the boat more! The boat does look good on the new trailer, but she is not supposed to be a trailer queen! Is there a drain under that aluminum plate where the engine bolts are attached? I think you said yes, but asking to make sure. My memory is getting bad as i get older. I honestly would have thought those two existing drains would have been at the bottom of the wet well instead of half way up. Down low, gravity would drain all rain water out and also any accumulated water once the boat was underway. If I was to recommend anything, bloc off the two upper drains and install 2 new ones directly below them and just a hair above the bottom of the well so there is enough of an area to apply sealant or epoxy to seal the raw edges. As for installing the pump, initially I would use a piece of flexible bilge hose drain line and just run it over the transom, maybe zip tieing it to the engine bracket to hold in place. This is to give you an idea if it will work as intended. Pump could probably be mounted to a piece of 1/2" starboard during this time. You might find out this is the better way to go and no further mods needed. Now lets talk about those side panels that were cut out at one time. How are they currently attached? I am guessing you installed some type of a backer behind the wall, then attached the panels with a resin/cabosil mixture. It does not appear there is any glass on the outside. Unfortunately, with no glass to tie it all together from the outside, cracks will eventually appear in the fairing compound. First thing that is needed is some grinding of the joints. Get the 4 1/2" grinder out and girnd a bevel on the joint all the way around. Extend the bevel out 2 or 3 inches to each side of the joint and it needs to go all the way through the panel so the grinder just barely kisses the underlying support piece. Cut some strips of 1708 biax cloth; first strip just a hair wider than the bevel, then all subsequent strips 1 inch narrower. 3 strips of the biax should be enough. Now cut 2 strips of mat the same width as the widest piece of 1708. Tape off around the area to be glassed. Brush some resin on the ground surface, then lay the widest strip of 1708 on the joint and wet out until no white fabric. Lay the next smaller width 1708 on the joint, centering it up and wet out. Repeat with the last piece, then use your roller to force all air out of the laminate. Once this is done, lay the first piece of mat on the joint and wet out, then do the same with the second one. After wetting out, roll them thoroughly to get the air out of the laminate, then allow to set up. The idea with the mat is that will be the material sanded down to fair the joint. The 1708 might get a little sanding, but the bulk should be the mat and the joint strength would not be compromised. Once it is sanded flush with the existing glass, spread some 3M Marine Vinylester putty on the joint and sand once more. After that, glazing putty may be required to eliminate any pinholes prior to priming and painting.
  5. I am up for doing that! May need to rely on your expertise of the newer models to help out with questions, if you don't mind. I guess now is a good time to get rid of that old introduction page and have it go straight to our main page, too.
  6. Hi u644367 and welcome to the forum. As much as it hurts to say this, you may be better asking your question on the factory site http://forum.robalo.com/ What do you think of the ride and performance of your R227?
  7. Hi Nancy and welcome to the site! This forum is more for the older Robalos, but we do have some members with newer year boats. Does seem odd the factory would not offer something like this which is a desired piece on a lot of boats. But look at it kinda like a gift and see if you can purchase the boat with no stereo. Then, purchase an after market model from someone liken Crutchfield or BOE. I can assure you whatever you purchase this way will have a lot more features than the factory option and will sound better, and probably at a better price. Then go with a chartplotter with XM weather. This way you can be sure both the plotter and stereo are network compatible.
  8. The auto-tether relies on a range. Had to send it back when I first got it as it would activate at 10 ft...right at the darn transom! They re-calibrated it to 15 ft, which is good enough for me. As I said, though, not nearly as clean a unit as yours.
  9. If it would help, email the photos to me and I will insert them in this discussion. Are you able to access the area below the hull liner up front and see standing water? If it is something that just accumulated over the years, I would just pump it out then check on it again every few weeks and pump again. What I have recommended in the past is to cut a circular hole through the foam down to the fiberglass so the water has a place to pool and allow a small pump to be put in the recessed area. It will take time for the water to seep back through the foam where it is adjacent to the hull so you can pump it out again. If you have the boat on a trailer, adjust the tongue jack so the area where the hole is located is the lowest possible point where gravity will make the water pool there. After a few times, It should be relatively empty and just check on it every few weeks. That boat is built like a tank! They are old but heavy. Engineering back then was when in doubt, put some more fiberglass to it. It may hurt top end performance, but those boats can handle rough water.
  10. That looks a whole lot nicer than the auto-tether I have. Then again, mine is 10 years old and technology has changed a lot since then. Installation looks nice and clean. How does it work; does it integrate into the existing kill switch on the binnacle?
  11. Thanks, Brian. This kind of information is a great resource for others!
  12. Hi Ross and welcome to the forum! I am using the Italian to English translator for others to see your message: Good evening, in my robalo 2520 at the moment of hauling I find many liters of water water in the bow. In addition, there are two unscrewable mats on the left and right sides. What are they for? Where are you seeing the water in the bow, is it in the in-floor box? If you could post a picture of the water and the mats, that would be a big help.
  13. The hard part is re-sizing a photo to 50KB (this is a software limitation; nothing I can control). I just did it for a test account and it took 20 minutes playing with a photo editor to get it down to size. After that, just drag and drop when editing your profile. Email me the picture and let me see what I can do with it.
  14. I am assuming that is a wood core sandwiched between fiberglass on the top and bottom. I would remove more of the wood all the way around the hole so there is a 3/4 to 1 inch recess. Get as much of the wood out as possible until it is back into good, solid wood. A dremel tool and small chisel would work fine. Clean it up as much as possible (doesn't have to be perfect, but the less wood stuck to the bare fiberglass, the better) then blow out any dirt and loose material. Tape a piece of plastic to the backside of the hole. If the backside is clean, 2" blue painters tape should work, otherwise you may need duck tape. For this you can use either epoxy or fiberglass resin. I would also get some fiberglass mat and pull it apart to make a bunch of loose fibers. Easiest way to make this is cut some mat into 3 inch wide strips, then take a comb or anything you can rake across the mat to pull it apart and end up with a bunch of loose fibers. Mix up either epoxy or resin at manufacturers recommended rate for hardener and stir well. Now mix in some cabosil to make a loose paste, then stir in the fibers to thicken it up some more. Once the fibers are thoroughly mixed in, add some more cabosil to form a stiff paste like peanut butter and force the putty into the recess using either a small putty knife or make up a pastry bag out of a quart zip lock freezer bag and squeeze the mixture into the recess. Use something like a popsicle stick or anything handy to force the mixture all the way back into the recess and against the existing wood core. Also be sure to overfill the recess so it is above the screw holes and out past the edge of the original hole...this can be sanded down back flat once cured.
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