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Robalo Boating Forum


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About 2-N-TOW

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    Root Admin
  • Birthday 08/31/1961

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    Suffolk, VA
  • Interests
    Boats, fishing, doing stuff with my 2 boys and sharing life's adventures with my wife!

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  1. 2-N-TOW

    Which 21 feet Robalo do I have?

    Boat has cleaned up real good. Not sure about those wires. The orange wires look like factory wires, so it is a safe bet all of that is original. Being that small gauge, I would guess some lights were hooked up to them or possibly a live well pump. Only thing I can suggest is to try tracing them back to the console with an ohmeter for future use. If the batteries are still in those transom boxes, it is going to need a heavy gauge (#2 or #1) for that run. There are some gauge calculators on a few marine wiring sites (https://www.genuinedealz.com/ is one of them).
  2. 2-N-TOW

    console rebuild wish list

    Doing good. A trick for using bondo to make a filet inside corner. First figure out what you will use for the filet shape. PVC pipe works great and is cheap. Mark on your mold about a 1/4" wider on both pieces than the pvc contact points, then run some painters tape along that line to catch any excess bondo. Mix up the bondo, the put it in a plastic sandwich bag in the bottom corner. Twist the bag like a pastry bag so all the bondo is down in the corner. Cut the corner of the bag and then you have much better control laying down a bead of bondo versus pushing it in there with a putty knife or squeege. Then use the piece of pvc pipe to get the final shape of the filet. Once it starts to set, remove the tape and you should have very little sanding to do to finish it off.
  3. 2-N-TOW

    Transom Re-Coring Project

    Can't get much more high tech than Crisco shortening! Sometimes the most basic thing is the best for some difficult things.
  4. 2-N-TOW

    Which 21 feet Robalo do I have?

    Welcome to the site and congratulations on the boat! Boat appears to be an R2120. Hull id number should be on the transom, starboard side, just under the rub rail. A second id number should be located up front in anchor locker. Transom looks to be in good shape. I don't see any brown stains around the transom eye bolts or thru hull fittings (this is normally a sign of a water logged transom). It also looks like the transom has had some work done to it as the factory aluminum trim cap is no longer there and it looks like the top of the transom has been glassed to seal the hull-liner seam. Dfinitely swap out those common steel bolts on the engine brackets with stainless bolts and nuts. Do a quick check on the transom integrity. Trim the motor all the way up, then pull down on the lower unit (after removing the prop). Transom should not flex. It it is good and solid, do not put an aluminum plate on it. A transom plate screams "I got a bad transom" to everyone else and really serves no purpose other than a band-aid. Good looking boat...time to go enjoy it!
  5. 2-N-TOW

    First Robalo

    No more of those pictures until you are showing it on the Robalo! (just kidding)
  6. 2-N-TOW

    Deadrise angle on a 84 2020?

    Yes. I thought long and hard about mine, then measured it to find the angle where it was going to be installed and realized the 20 degree was too much. If I was another foot port of that location, then the 20 degree transducer would have been a better fit. Try to find a location for installation that is not directly in front of the motor. These transducers do not extend much below the bottom of the hull, but they can cause disturbances in the water flow that could result in prop cavitation. Mine is offset about 8 inches from center to address this. Reality, it probably would not affect anything when I take into consideration the drain for the in-floor fish box is on the centerline just in front of the transducer, but that does not extend past the bottom of the hull.
  7. 2-N-TOW

    Deadrise angle on a 84 2020?

    I looked through the on-line documents and came up blank. I think the 2020 is 19 degrees, though. Are you looking at the Airmar B60 tilted element transducer? That is what I have installed in my 2160. My boat is around 20-21 degree deadrise, but where I installed the transducer, the bottom was not angled as much. As a result, I went with the 12 degree unit since mine is just off of the center line and felt the 20 degree unit would not have the beam as close to directly under the boat as the 12 degree one. I can post a picture of the installed location tomorrow.
  8. 2-N-TOW

    First Robalo

    Ok, ya got me good on that one! I was thinking I did not pay attention in Geography class back in my school days.
  9. 2-N-TOW

    Permission to come aboard..?

    Welcome to the site and congratulations on the new boat purchase! Don't be shy to ask questions....its winter and that helps keep some of us from going stir crazy! Keep us updated with any build pictures of the boat coming together.
  10. 2-N-TOW

    First Robalo

    Looks good. I like that second set of chairs in the cockpit. That is the one thing about this boat, it has a lot of room for fishing. I think 4,200 rpms puts me in the 30-32 mph range, too. I am guessing you are running a 19" pitch prop to get those performance numbers. And you are correct, 4,00 - 4,200 is the sweet spot for the best fuel burn on my boat, too. You have me confused on one statement, though. You say your in Panama City, yet will be fishing the Pacific? In the process of moving west?
  11. 2-N-TOW

    Clamshell vent covers

    John - Just sent you an email on the vent covers.
  12. 2-N-TOW

    First Robalo

    Welcome to the site! Great model boat (I'm kinda partial since I have a 2160, too!) They are heavy boats. Glad to see you have a 225 pushing it. What kind of top end speed are you seeing? I have an Evinrude Ram Ficht 225, and at 6,.000 rpms I am right at 50 mph. I will guarantee you that boat will handle water rougher than you care to be in. I have been caught in a few storms that blew off the beach and the boat was fine in the rough water...you just have to learn good throttle management to match the sea conditions. One thing to consider if the boat does not already have them are a set of trim tabs. They really help the boat handle choppy water so you can get the bow down and let it cut through the waves instead of bouncing on top of them part way back on the hull. Post some pictures of the boat when you get a chance!
  13. 2-N-TOW

    Boat Racing stories

    Kicking this back to the top so AsBoats2002 can have some fun talking about those rc boats!
  14. 2-N-TOW

    console rebuild wish list

    I may have to resurrect my boat racing thread so we can have some fun!
  15. 2-N-TOW

    console rebuild wish list

    Those are some neat "toys", and I use that term very loosely. The amount of money tied up in those is not just the cost of the boat and motor, but the time in getting the proper set-up to get to the point of kicking everybody else's butt! Messing with those model boats also gave you a lot of insight on things to do to the Robalo and cut down on the "fear" of making changes to better suit your needs. Glass work on those small boats is similar in a lot of ways to doing the same thing on our bigger boats. How difficult was it driving those boats? I would guess choppy water in the turns could be a hand full. Were you making your own props for them or re-working somebody else's props. Oh, and lets not forget that lovely smell of nitro/castor oil fuel being burned. Just thinking of that smell brings back lots of childhood memories when my dad raced alky hydros. That was one thing we learned when designing and building race boats, too. Lift could be your best friend and your worst enemy. With tunnel boats, we tended to rely more on the tunnel for more of the lift than what the hydros did with their extended air traps running 3/4 the length of the bottom. Since we did this on our own in the backyard in the 80's and 90's, we discovered that what one would expect to happen when compressing air in the tunnel actually worked opposite of what one would expect (ground effect 101). You just had to find the right balance. I don't know how much you may have followed the inboard hydro racing, but around the mid 90's (I think), a guy in the 2.5 litre class had a boat built very similar to the outrigger boats. That boat was known as the Lobster Boat and ran darn good. The designer realized the same thing you figured out...lift was drag; remove some of the lift and that loss drag turned into faster speed. That boat opened a lot of eyes as it was so unconventional looking when it first appeared. Thanks for sharing those pictures...I did not mean to de-rail this thread.