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Robalo Boating Forum


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About 2-N-TOW

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  • Birthday 08/31/1961

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    Suffolk, VA
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    Boats, fishing, doing stuff with my 2 boys and sharing life's adventures with my wife!

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  1. Craig - What is the motor doing...lots of cranking before it fires up or stalling as soon as it starts? Those motors normally are good once they have warmed up.
  2. That spark plug boot would make me wonder if that spark plug was even firing when under a load. If not firing, that could cause loss of rpms at top end. Looking at the fuel hose also makes brings up a few other things; may be time to change the external fuel filter to insure there is no fuel flow restriction there and also see if there is a fuel filter on the motor that may need changing, too. Looks like a new fuel line is on the to-do list, also. When you get a chance, post a picture of the motor trimmed neutral so I can see where the cavitation plate is in relation to the bottom.
  3. Yup...still have some made up. Check you pm for additional information.
  4. Sounds like prior owner did some modifications and ran a hose to the garboard (transom) drain. Is there a fitting in the floor fish box just in front of the transom that water would come out of? I am thinking prior owner rigged up that area to be a livewell and was using the drain as a water source to the fish box.
  5. You got me curios on that one. Can you post a picture of the plug?
  6. Hi Flounder! Not sure what happened to your message. If all switches are not working, track down the common ground wire that should go to a bus bar under the console. I bet the wire is loose or corroded. Since that would be the primary negative source, it could take out all switches at one location. Hope this helps for a starting point. If you could post a picture of the wiring, we may be able to offer additional ideas.
  7. Glad to hear you found the source for the water! After 40+ years, I guess some stuff is going to wear out a little. So when do we get to see some pictures of fish being caught???
  8. Hull came out looking darn good! I have read comments from others that have used the paint, and never a negative comment. I am curious...did your guy spray it outside? Don't worry about any of us commenting on the console...anybody that has done something like this knows it is a work in progress and all that matters is the end result. Are the plans for that existing leg full of wiring to be re-used? Were all those wires previously used? Honestly, those wire are probably a tangled mess in the t-top leg. It may be a good idea to use one to pull some string that can be used to pull new wiring instead of fighting through the old stuff. I just went through this on my dad's boat and ended up removing everything in the pipe and started over.
  9. Don't get too concerned about the compression just yet. It is possible your gauge is reading 10-15 psi low. As long as the min/max range was no more than 10%, that is more important as that shows even wear in all cylinders and no head gasket leaks. Also try squirting a shot of oil in each cylinder and see if that raises the compression. If so, then possible ring wear. That motor should be around 5600-6000 rpms wide open. 4800 is way too low. If the tach is accurate, that motor is running under too much strain, which can cause premature wear and carbon build-up in the cylinders. Trim the motor neutral and check where the cavitation plate is located in relation to the bottom of the hull. It should be 1 to 1 1/2" above the bottom of the boat. Any deeper and it is causing a lot of unnecessary drag and hurting performance. That 225 should be able to spin a 17" prop with no issues. I have a 225 Evinrude Ficht and can spin a 19" Michigan wheel to 6000 rpms with a light load on my 2160. I would also expect 4800 to put you in the low to mid 30's range. This is another reason I am thinking the motor may be too low on the transom. Dropping down 2" in pitch should get you an additional 400 rpm (rule of thumb is 200 rpm change per inch of pitch). Regarding my comment about carbon build-up, what 2 stroke oil did the owner run? If conventional oil or semi-synthetic, has the motor ever been de-carbed? Both of those oils can cause carbon build-up in the combustion chamber and around the piston edges (conventional faster than semi-synthetic). The build-up will also occur faster on a motor that is not propped correctly due to the constant load on the motor. If it is questionable when this was last done, give the motor a good shock treatment to clean it out.
  10. 2-N-TOW

    1977 R180

    Hi Vvrancher and welcome to the site! Can you post some pictures where it is separated? Other than that, what does the rest of the boat look like? Any idea what caused the issue?
  11. Look under the deck cap in the bow area and see if there is a hull id number hidden there. I am not sure which side it would be on, but manufacturers would normally have the number in two places...starboard side on transom and somewhere up front on the hull; not the cap. The boat does not show the dreaded brown stains around the transom fittings, normally indicative of a saturated transom. As for the crack on the transom cap, if you are comfortable doing glass work, I would recommend grinding out the cracked and loose glass and re-glassing it. Now that we are fairly sure this is a Robalo, I will move this thread over to the center console group.
  12. Hi Islander13111 and welcome to the site! Was there any title with the boat? If so, that should have the hull id no. That boat looks like an R190. Take a look at the below link and view the attachment. The hawser pipes at the transom corners look correct. Rub rail looks like my 1988 2160. Front deck also matches the picture in the link. Looks like the bow flare resembles your boat, too. I think you may be at the right website! Let the questions begin.
  13. I am honestly surprised it took this long for this to happen. Compared to the restrictions on the water around the shipyards, Little Creek has always had "easy" access. I just hope everyone can play nice together and not make it more difficult to use that area.
  14. Don't be afraid to ask questions...we have all been there before. Let us know what you hear from the dealership, too.
  15. That does look better. Just keep an eye on water flow from the tattle tale at wide open throttle to be sure it is still getting good water flow (I am 99% sure you are good, but always like to be just a little cautious). Be on the look out for prop blow-out where excess air gets to the prop and causes it to rev high real quick. It may also show up when turning hard when on plane since the prop is higher in the water and will sometimes get aireated water pulled into the prop and cause it to loose bite. If it does show up, slow down so it can get clean water around the prop again. If this problem happens a lot, it may be necessary to drop down one hole. Let us know how it works out.
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