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Robalo Boating Forum


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About IcutMetal

  • Rank
    Petty Officer
  • Birthday 07/04/1980

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Sandusky, Ohio
  • Interests
    Boating, snowmobiling, atv's & motorcycles, anything 2-cycle, animals- especially dogs, family, friends, and fun!

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  1. IcutMetal

    1994 Robalo 2520

    I wanted to post here first before eBay and PowerboatListings.com; it's come that time that I must part with my 2520. I shouldn't say must; I don't have to sell it, but it's time for us to move into a house with more land and room to stretch, and being without a boat temporarily will help us get there a lot sooner. There are not very many classic Robalos around my area, and it continues to get compliments and looks wherever it goes- even when docked beside much newer & fancier boats. You guys know how well the hull & boat performs; I don't have to go into detail there. I have owned it since February of 2012, and purchased it from it's original owner. It's been a Lake Erie boat for 98% of it's life; I say 98%, because I'm pretty sure the prior owner did trailer it to the Keys at least once. The motors are the original Mercury 200hp carbureted outboards with counter-rotating drives. The drives were replaced with new Mercury units; along with new water pumps, in August of 2012. At that same time, I also switched the original 21p Quicksilver Mirage props out for a new pair of 19p Revolution 4's, which I like a lot better- improved holeshot under load, more trim capability, rough water traction, and lower planing speed. I have every bit of paperwork for work that I've done or equipment / hardware I've purchased for the boat, as well as much of the original manuals, etc from the original owner. I replaced the washdown pump with a ProBlaster, bilge pump with a Rule Gold 2000gph & WaterWitch auto switch, installed a new Rule Tournament Series baitwell pump & timer module on the dash switch last year. I removed the clear access panel from the upper electronics box, milled a faceplate from Starboard (I still have the original hinged panel), and mounted a Standard Horizon CPV-350 combo chartplotter (with the C-Map NA-M026 chip for Great Lakes)/sounder/VHF & Kenwood KMR-700U audio player. I installed 4 Kenwood 6.5" marine speakers; two on the lower portion of the helm, and two in the ends of the upper electronics box- sounds good without being overboard. I removed the freshwater shower system in the helm and replaced it with a inset fire extinguisher compartment/holder. The anchor is a 14lb Danforth style, with 150ft of 3-strand 1/2" line in good shape. Scuppers were replaced 2 seasons ago with TH-Marine push-together style. When I bought the boat, I stripped the existing built-up bottom paint, wiped the hull with acetone, and repainted it with Petit Hydrocoat- I've touched up a few areas every year. The trailer was purchased new by me directly from Nextrail in 2012 for $4,680; it is a model 24-26 TAN, with a 10,000lb GVWR, twin torsion axles, surge discs on the front axle only, guide bunks in the front, and guide poles along each side- the trailer likely has less than 200 miles tops and is in near perfect shape. The original owner stored it in the water every season, and on blocks at a marina & shrink-wrapped during the winter (he had the boat maintained by his local marina). I trailered it the first season, and it's been rack stored every season since, and stored indoors during winter. I've had the shift & throttle cables replaced on both engines, as well as a general checkover/service on both engines by a local certified Mercury service facility in 2013. I've replaced both switch boxes and voltage regulators on the port side engine. All anodes were replaced in 2015 with magnesium units. I do have a T-Bag under the t-top to hold 6 emergency pfd's as well as other small items. I have a nice Sunbrella cover for the helm. There is also a folding canopy over the bow that will totally enclose the casting platform area; I've slept 4 people across...in a pinch. I also have white vinyl cushions for the casting platform area that snap in place; as well as a full set of isinglass for the helm, which I've never taken the time to use. I believe I have enough custom-fit canvas pieces & isinglass to totally enclose the boat from bow to behind the helm area. I have the leaning post & cushion installed currently, but I also have a very nice pair of captain's chairs with newer white vinyl cushions. Last season, I buffed, waxed and polished the entire outer hull and wet-sanded, buffed, waxed, and polished the inner hull surfaces. The boat was not too faded on the topsides, but it really made a difference. I just got the boat back in my driveway from storage today, and will begin to clean & service it this week, likely giving it another quick polish/buff. I have a full set of stick & 12ga flares (up to date, purchased last year) that will come with the boat. I have 4 or 5 lengths of 5/8" x 25' dock line with eyes in one end that will come with the boat. I do have a set of fenders that I can include as well, if a buyer wants them. All tackle trays will be included for both the forward and side tackle stations. I rarely fished off of the boat; actually, I simply love classy looking center-console boats. Overall; it's a great looking boat in solid condition that continues to turn heads, but being realistic about the age and use, it is not perfect. There are the normal gelcoat chips here and there, the engines run great but likely do have long hours, and it's not a maintenance free machine. I've considered keeping it for a long-term restoration, but the timing on that doesn't work for me right now- it's time to pass this beautiful boat along to someone who can show it the love that I won't be able to for the near future. I have lots of great pictures of the boat; even some videos, which I will try to gather together in my Photobucket account, and post the link. If anyone is interested, I can also email or text them as well- please feel free to reach out. Also; please feel free to ask any specific questions I may not have addressed in my random list of features above. I'm asking $17,500 for the boat, trailer, and extras listed above. It is currently located in Sandusky Ohio, and can be easily put in the water for a trial. There are no liens on the trailer or boat. Within the next couple weeks, I will have the boat fully clean, de-winterized & better prepared for sale.
  2. I can get my old 200hp Mercurys to push my 2520 to the early-mid 50mph range with a half tank of gas, light load, lots of trim, and about 5200-5400rpm. This is with a pair of 19p Mercury Rev4 4-blade props. Used to have 21p Mirage three blades and saw 54mph once with a load of 5 people on those. I'm not getting full RPM's out of my port motor, which is usually 200rpm less or so- I think this is due to a control adjustment issue.
  3. That would make sense; I know one of them backed completely out. I will check the others next time I'm at the marina.
  4. Overall; I really enjoy my Robalo, without a doubt. It gets so many compliments that I almost feel guilty for even looking at other boats. However, my "wheels" are always spinning. Like a lot of used boats; and I'm sure many on here, mine isn't perfect- it was (and is) taken care of, but it's also been used. I've seen a lot of refit/rebuild threads both on here and THT, which get me thinking...man, it would be nice to have my classic boat, but with a few upgrades. I see bracketed motors on closed transoms, optimax outboards, re-wiring/plumbing, a better electronics and storage layout, etc etc...just gives me ideas. I can do small gelcoat and fiberglass repairs, and have a lot of general, basic knowledge of mechanical systems. However; especially when it comes to the in-depth glass work, that's where I know better than to over extend myself. Where would a guy even start to look for a place to do such work; at least around my corner of the map? I have a general understanding of the economics argument in that it would be a commitment to the boat. Just curious as to what your thoughts are...
  5. I have a question for you guys. I notice I have a couple of screws loose (insert joke here) where my helm/console is attached to the deck. I can't see where they attach from the inside. They are machine screws; 1/4" or so in diameter, with Phillips heads and washers- sorry no pics. Everything is still very solid; and I'm sure you could hang off the damn t-top if you wanted to, but I've noticed a couple times that when we get into choppy or rough conditions and are running harder than usual, it almost feels like the console is flexing/moving. Now I'm not talking a lot here, but I feel a bit of movement if I have my foot braced against it. Now I know it's no brand new boat, and I'm probably just paranoid based off past experiences with my old Trophy, which came very close to becoming "remote control" when the poorly designed console separated at a mid-seam. What I'm curious about is if and how it can be tightened up.
  6. Spent the day yesterday in Vermilion, another boating friendly town off Lake Erie, fed by a busy river. This is where I bought my boat from and where the original owner kept it since new. We met up with him and his wife, who were happy to have us in and give us a spin on their 'new' 35' Contender side console. It's an awesome boat, but I honestly think they both miss the Robalo...no joke. There's Cedar Point; I believe Millenium Force, in the background. We were coming back into Sandusky Bay after a trip to Kellys Island for dinner. I know these things were built for more than Yellow Perch, but it works for me! Another one of Cedar Point On our way home from Kellys Island Back to it's home...
  7. The fused terminal strip in the t-top box of my 2520; it is hot all the time when the battery is switched on, but is it's power supplied from one of the circuit breakers inside the console? Thanks!
  8. In the process of wiring my CPV350 & FF520 in the T-top electronics box of my boat. There is a fused terminal strip up in the box that is hot whenever the house battery is switched on; I was planning on using this to connect my stereo, MFD, and fishfinder to. After reading the instruction manual, it appears that SH suggests that both of the units be wired to a switch?? With the CPV350 and stereo; no big deal being wired direct since they have their own switch. However, I don't want a drain on my battery from the FF520. Am I understanding this correctly; that I DO need to add a separate switch? I don't have any open ACC switches, so I'd have to cut one in. I noticed that with the transducer connected; and the FF520 connected to 12v, the transducer is receiving a signal. Is this right? Of course after using my boat, I will always shut the batteries off...but still- how long would it take for the 1w load to drain it, and will it cause damage to the transducer?
  9. Haha yeah; I know what you mean. When we go to Put in Bay or the other local hangouts, it's a stereo competition all day and night.
  10. Okay; I need your guys' opinions on my next step. I will prove out all the electronics before I seal the front panel on; of course, but once it is sealed up, and there's a bead of 4000uv around the periphery, it will be hard to access the area if there's a blown fuse, etc... Right now, I only have two 6.5" speakers in the lower helm area near the deck. If I cut a pair of 5" holes (one in either end) in the t-top box, and installed another pair of speakers, it would do two things. It would allow me to use the other two outputs of my stereo (not a HUGE deal), but more importantly- allow me access to critical wiring and the fuse strip a lot easier...just take out one speaker and reach my hand in there... What say you?
  11. I know what you mean. I love this boat overall; with this project, I wanted to be able to do the upgrade and still leave myself the option to return it to original if I wanted to, aside from a little gelcoat touch up. In my opinion, this boat wasn't meant to look like a lot of the newer CC's...I like it's classic features- but I can still make a few improvements for functionality. For instance; the boat doesn't have a lot of convenient storage, so I removed the fresh water shower and replaced it with an inset fire extinguisher holder, and removed the tank inside the console area. Figured it's a good thing to have easy access to (fire extinguisher), and the loss of the shower (which never ever got used by the prior/original owner) isn't a big must have in my area. I don't think I'll ever do a full restore of the boat (not to say it isn't worthy or needs it), but I do enjoy digging into stuff and making sure everything is what it should be. Recently upgraded/re-routed the pump wiring in the bilge, battery wiring & new batteries, replaced the 1500gph bilge pump with a 2000gph unit and electronic switch to replace the float unit I found to be cracked, and all new pump hoses...
  12. I really debated doing it that way, but wanted access to everything without having to open the flap, etc. Plus; with my boat either being rack stored or trailered, and the fresh water environment, I don't have that working against me. Would have been nice to have it right in front of me, but didn't want to cannibalize the dash compartment area.
  13. It should work as long as I don't get the duct tape wet, right?? Haha...waiting on some more hardware and wiring components before I button it up...
  14. Picked up some 1" StarBoard and decided to mount my electronics up above in the T-top box. The Standard Horizon CPV-350 is a VHF, GPS, and Sounder all in one to save space.
  15. Cool; thanks for your input. I will try it flush first- I have different wedges to pitch it up or down if needed.
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