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  1. Today
  2. Yes, it came with a factory t-top per the specs I don't think you will be able to locate a factory version. Best bet would be to have a local fabricator make one using pictures as a reference.
  3. Yesterday
  4. hi all, I would like to know if the 1992 2120 was coming out from the yard with a T-top version,also will it be possible buy an"original" version of that? Thank you very much Mickey
  5. Last week
  6. Thank you Dan. Once the stiffling humidity subsides enough to don a Tyvek suit I will do just that. I'm anxious to see what's behind the skin. I do know one thing that the plywood is solid no dead spots. So, I do hope that the outer layer has a weak bond with it. I will likely have set the blade depth on a circular saw and make several passes to take the wood out in pieces. Yours is quite a boat and after the job you did, it would be all the boat I ever needed.
  7. This is the closest I recall seeing that could have a rope inserted into in place of the vynil insert. https://www.hodgesmarine.com/taov11-0809bwk50-2-taco-flex-vinyl-rub-rail-white.html?gclid=CjwKCAjw3K2XBhAzEiwAmmgrAj2SmidA8GRRXM9BsXwhf_DWcqpaF2LRW7gD64ZaMj2TVz0pF9_LTRoC6c4QAvD_BwE
  8. Hello all, Im in the process of restoring this boat, and im at the stage where I need to put on a new rub rail. Has anyone recently found rub rail with a rope insert ? It seems like this type of rub rail isnt readily available. Wondering if anyone has had any luck finding it. Thanks!
  9. Take pictures of anything you might think will help....we will figure this out.
  10. I would recommend cutting around 4" back from the edge. So much easier to glass and fair on a flat surface instead making a 90 bend. Plus it gives you 3 " to sand a bevel in the original fiberglass where the joint will be glassed back. If you can get the outer skin off as one piece, inspect it on the outside to determine if any cracks are just cosmetic. As long as they don't compromise the integrity of the skin, I would re-use it. By re-using it, you will save a lot of time and material sanding compared to laying 4 to 6 new layers of 1708. Some of the stuff I did was a little overkill. Can say it has been run hard over the years and there are no stress cracks anywhere in the transom! I do need to address some issues on the forward deck where water got into the core when the original owner had it or win the lottery and buy a new boat
  11. The boat is currently parked away from home, but I will get pictures the next time I am there. The fish box drain is way up on the port gunwale, under the rub rail, about even with the front of the console. So I don't think any water is leaking in there. I have never owned a fishing boat with these tanks before, so I am not at all familiar with how all the plumbing works and is connected. There is some sort of through-hull at the stern at the bottom of the V.
  12. Thanks Dan. I was awaiting your assessment and reply before I started cutting. Do you suggest I make the cut 4-5" away from the outer edges or cut the skin out at the outer corner edges and make a new outer skin? Because as you can see from the photos, water had already made its way into the gap, absorbed into the new plywood, froze, expanded and cracked the gelcoat in several areas along the lower portion. So, I will likely have to make a new outer skin anyway. I don't have FB account but I will take a look at the page. I did search and read through as many threads on transom repair on here as I could find. Found your transom rebuild document. AMAZING JOB!! You will likely enjoy that boat for a lifetime.
  13. We are still around. Traffic on the site has fallen way off. Just not as many of us older Robalos being worked on would be my guess for the lack of posts. We also get some traffic on our Facebook site (Robalo Boats USA). We started that group back in May, 2009 Shop crane...I still have the one I bought in 2006 just for removing my motor! One of the better Harbor Freight tools I have purchased. If the cavitation plate was about in the correct location, I would not recommend going with a jack plate as it will move the motor a few inches behind the transom and move that weight further back, possibly accentuating the balance issue. The transom angle looks original, so that is not an issue. My real suspicion is the previous owner had a few big friends in the boat standing behind the leaning post, and getting on plane resulted in a bow high attitude for an extended time. Tucking the motor in will overcome this, but a simpler approach is to have the adults stand next to the console when getting on plane. Also, trim tabs can be a great help to overcome this and would be my preference over the jack plate. I am guessing there is a gap between the outer transom skin and the plywood core looking at those pictures. I bet the new core was installed without proper clamping or running temporary screws thru the outer skin to pull it up tight to the wood. If you plan on keeping the boat for a while, consider cutting the outer skin off and re-doing the core the right way. This will also allow you to inspect how that core was installed and determine if it needs to be removed and re-done. Even though there is a gap where the transom core meets the sides of the hull, the gap between the skin and motor well concern me more. That skin really needs a good bond to the core so it is all one solid piece...now the transom appears to be 2 pieces - outer skin with questionable material between it and the core. Also, those gaps can allow for water to be trapped in the voids and sit/freeze over time with not so good results. And you are correct...transom should be the same thickness the full width of the boat.
  14. Dan, This was something i wanted to check before I pulled the motor. However, the two batteries were dead and the motor was trimmed all the way down. I shud have taken the time to directly power the trim/tilt motor to neutral position but didn't. I would guesstimate at full trim down the cav plate was ~1"-1 1/2" above the bottom of the hull. There is a good chance there was more trapped water in the hull. The two batteries are in the center console. Your thoughts on an adjustable deck plate when the time comes to remount the motor? With the shop crane it seems like it will be easy enough to work out the proper height when the time comes and it may be waste of money, but it was a thought.
  15. Hey Dan, Great to hear from you! Wasnt sure that I would. Didn't appear that there has been much life or new topics on the forum. Maybe you were following the thread? Everyone must be enjoying trouble free fun with their Robalo's! Thanks for the compliment on the Hobie. Many long days and nights working with a drop light often timed due to cooler nights to get it to where it is. At some point the boat was a marina tender. So, it had many scrapes scratches and digs everywhere, as well as a 1 1/2" hole in the bottom I discovered while scraping the bottom paint. (11 lbs bottom paint on this one, I believe the R1800 had like 15lbs. Captured it with a tarp underneath while working on my back then weighed it on a scale. Yes, I know I'm nuts.) Boat is not perfect, I wet sanded all the imperfections to smooth (some through the gelcoat as deep as the glass, so, lot of low spots in the gelcoat). Then buffed the whole boat bottom to top. Someday I will re-gelcoat all the low spots on the sides and long board sand them. Right now we are just enjoying it. Pictures don't show the console area but I installed a nice 16 gal. plastic tank for a pro kart which fits perfectly under the seat. We go everywhere with it. Back to the R1800.... I'm aware all transoms have a pitch and the reason wedges are used. I was hoping someone might know what was correct for this model. Pic shown is likely in line with 11-13 deg. that you mention. With transom wedges and signs of a previous Doel Fin being mounted someone was obviously trying to correct likely planing issues with the boat. I haven't uncovered the 4-5 layers of tarps but when I had started on the boat I did have some water soaked foam beneath what looked to be a factory plug in the port side deck back near the transom where I believe the rear floor foam may have been filled from. I took a pipe drove it into the foam to pull out a plug of it and let the water fill the hole through capillary action and gravity and the bow raised. Drew water out of the hole for weeks until eventually there was no more water. But due to the cracked port gunwhale and botched area I showed previously for the fuel fill, I believe this is likely where the foam had taken on water from. There may be more wet foam elsewhere but the floors were rock solid and tarps have been on the boat since 2017 with each layer replaced when I noticed degradation. There are cracks in the transom skin and transom gelcoat due to water freezing in the transom wood. Because of the u-bolts I believe the new wood goes to the top left and right on the transom as I also have cracks at the rub rail area STBD side. Which I'm not sure are due to ice from taking on water from the rub rail screw holes or if it's also botched mating of new to old transom in this area. Don't have the same cracks in the port side rub rail area but do have crack in top edge of rear seat back (shown previously.) I don't know whether you can tell from the photos but the transom is an even width in the motor well area. It's thickest in the middle and tapers towards where it meets PORT and STBD sides. Which to me looks incorrect. It should be even width all the way across unless I am wrong. Although eyeballing it across the back it is flat. No inward or outward bow to it. There are cracks in the gelcoat in the center well area just in front of the motor. The open gaps shown are just as I found it with no mat forming a cap along the top edge. Just really fragile, poorly-mixed resin, bonding new to old fiberglass. Which chipped, if not fell out with little effort from a wide flat blade screwdriver. The new gelcoat layer is super thin, less than 1/16" some areas. After removing the motor last night scraping barnacles off the area, I can see a vertical pencil mark directly above the drain hole where they must have measured and marked to drill the holes in new transom for the brackets. No rocker or hook to the underside of the hull. When I bought it before I converted the trailer to bunks, I scraped off all the bottom paint it had obvious divots in the underside at each roller from sitting on the trailer so long. I had positioned the new bunks with the stringers when i converted it and the divots remained. Prompted by your question, I took a look tonight and they have all disappeared. The bottom couldn't be any flatter from the front all the way back. Hope I answered all of your questions Dan and my pictures shed a little more light on what I'm dealing with to suggest what best to do with it.
  16. Hey guys I watching the video of Sammy joe back in the day in fort pierce and noticed it looked like all the boats in the video had out riggers coming off the t top. Any insight or photos as to how they attached/ locked inside the t top supports looks like they went inside the uprights? Also I know a while ago I saw a thread on bracing off the t top supports inside the console, someone welded an angle bracket inside the console to the upright. Wondering if anyone could get me to that thread. Thanks in advance. Tight lines
  17. One other thing that has me wondering...do you recall where the cavitation plate on the lower unit was in relation to the bottom of the hull when trimmed neutral?
  18. Awesome restoration on the Hobi! Did you strip off all the exterior paint and re-spray? Curious as to what you painted it with. Not sure if we ever covered this previously. Transoms should never be straight up and down; there is typically a 9 to 11 degree slope with the top of the transom extending back further than where it meets the hull bottom. For someone to have replaced the transom previously and removed that angle would have required a lot of work. Check and make sure that angle exists (it appears it does from that picture where the motor has been removed). Transom wedges are to allow the motor to trim in enough to drop the bow down, correcting either a weight imbalance or a hull defect that was allowing the bow to rise abnormally. Weight imbalance could be due to too much weight at the transom. Did it have both batteries mounted in the storage boxes at the transom? Water trapped in the foam beneath the floor in the back part of the boat could also cause this, but lets try the less invasive approach such as moving the batteries to the console. The only hull defect I can think of would be a "rocker" in the running surface. To check for this, place a straight edge around 6 ft long on the bottom of the boat and see if the last 3 ft is straight or does it have a gap between the straight edge and the bottom of the hull at the transom. If there is a gap, that is a rocker. (The opposite condition is a hook, where there would be a gap between the front and back edges of the reference line. This condition will result the the bow being pushed down at speed.) We can discuss this more later. Are there any cracks in the transom skin, which might indicate the wood core was not completely replaced previously? Does it appear that maybe the old fiberglass was cut across the top of the transom, then the old core cut out and a new core bedded in behind the transom skin? Can you post some close up pictures of the circled area that makes you suspect something is not right? Does it look like the plywood core does come up to the top of the transom cap? If it does look good, to fix that crack I would grind off all suspect fiberglass and filler to get back to a solid base across the top of the cap. Along the outer skin, grind back along that crack the same way and bevel the good fiberglass skin 4-5 inches. Also see if any grinding and beveling need to be done in the wet well area. Glass that back with 4 layers of 1708 fabric, with the bottom layer covering all the beveled area, then reduce the subsequent layers widths by 1 " so it starts 1/2" shorter than the previous layer. To get the fabric to hold tight around the radius, I will sometimes lay plastic over top of the wet laminate and use tape to pull it down tight by extending the tape a few inches past the plastic onto the old fiberglass.
  19. Earlier
  20. Shown are areas of the cracks in the outer skin. The top of the transom had no cap or mat tying anything together and I initially thought I was going to be able to give it a band-aid cap to hold things together. There's another crack circled which makes me think that the new wood may not extend the full width of the transom causing stress in this area. 3-4 yrs ago I had ground back the top edge which is where the cracks began and was essentily just resin (and improperly mixed resin at that) no mat. I then top coated it with new resin to protect it from freeze and thaw until I could resume the project. Another thing I'm concerned about is you'll notice transom wedges were used when they re-hung the motor. I don't know if this was done after the fact because they didn't build the transom back at the correct angle and were thus having issues planing, but there are also drilled holes in the lower unit for a Doel Fin stabilizer but the boat had none when I bought it. Can anyone tell me the correct transom angle for an 88' R1800? It is a ways down the road, but I've been thinking of reinstalling the motor with a manual jacking plate when I do in order to dual in the motor height more easily. Any thoughts on this?
  21. Hello my fellow Robalo friends who helped me on this thread. Which I more or less abandoned for the past five years. Due to at the same time starting on a lesser but similar project and smaller boat. Although, it took me more than a year to get it the way I wanted it before it went in the water. We've been enjoying it ever since, with several trips to Block Island on decent days. Call me nuts but our little 15' 86' Hobie Power Skiff is now a pride and joy. This isn't a Hobie Forum. So, I won't bore you with all of the details, but it started as just a rough hull. Which also needed the transom redone. A trailer which needed to be completely rebuilt, and an 86' 40hp Evinrude which I also completely rebuilt. I'll post some before and after pics below. The reason I'm back, is because my honey is ready for a larger center console that is nit so loaded diwn when we head for the beach and has some room for a vouple more passengees. I've been looking for the past month or so and have made a few extended tips to look at some possible candidates. But I've come with the conclusion that anything bigger than 20' is more boat than I need/want. That the R1800 in my driveway, (which now sits under 4 idle season layers of degraded tarps) is likely the perfect boat for us once the transom is fixed. Before it sat idle I rebuilt the trailer with new leaf springs, hubs, winch, tongue jack, wiring and lights. I bought new no feedback steering system and control cable's and all new custom battery cables for it back when I started into it. All are in my garage waiting to be installed. After coming to my conclusion last Saturday night I got up early Sunday morning and headed to NH from CT for a used once Harbor Freight 2 Ton shop crane. Which after 5 yrs of procrastination took me less than a hour to remove the Mercury 150 from the boat. I don't know whether I stated such in my original posts, but I believe that someone else already made a botched attempt at replacing this transom before I bought it. I believe the crack along the top of the transom and on the left side is due to the fact that there was no cap made at the top to tie the new to the old when it was replaced. After removing the old brass transom drains you can see that the plywood (likely new marine grade) is still very solid, "new looking" with no rot. Along the top edge the glass was clearly not done properly with chunks of just resin mating new to old with no matting that I can break away with a screwdriver. There are cracks along the very lower edges towards the lower transom drain hole. Where there were likely similar voids between new and old which took on water, froze and cracked the gelcoat where it forms a corner. So, do I start my cut of the outer transom 4-5" inboard of the edges as I've seen in do many places as the recommended method or do I cut more tight to the outer edges where the cracks eminate from? Ive already started grinding back some of the cracked areas. If the plywood is not rotted, I may have to cut tighter to the outer edges to get the old out anyway. Even if it is somewhat new not rotted I will not likely reuse it. Hobi pics below.
  22. HI, does anyone have a 2120 1992 manual? Grazie
  23. Not a Robalo, but my dad's boat stays on a lift. Deck drains allow for most water to exit boat. We just turn on the bilge pump prior to dropping lift and it may run a minute or two to get any other water out. Trying to remove his garboard drain plug is a pain and we found it not worth the aggravation.
  24. I have a 2019 Robalo 226 Grand Cayman. I have it on a boat lift, and have a question... Unless I get in the water, it is impossible to remove the drain plug, directly under the engine. Are the drains in the decking that remove the water out the sides of the boat good enough to remove rainwater, water from boat washing, or does the drain plug need to come out? Thanks for any suggestions in advance!
  25. JimJ - We do not have the manual for the 2140. Here is a link to the 1993 Owners manual. https://www.robaloboatowners.net/manuals/1993-RobaloManual.pdf When Brunswick owned Robalo during that time, they did not have digital copies that we could link to.
  26. Can you post some pictures of the boat fishbox and and bait well / drain area. Also pictures of the thru hull fittings for the drains for both areas.
  27. Hey guys I watching the video of Sammy joe in day in fort pierce and noticed it looked like all the boats in the video had out riggers cominf off the t top. Any insight or photos as to how the attached/ locked inside the t top supports looks like they went inside the uprights. Also I know a while ago I saw a thread on bracing off the t top inside the console, someone welded an angle bracket in the to support. Wondering if anyone good get me to that thread. Thanks in advance. Tight lines
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