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  3. I like the plate on top. Could you fabricate 2 plates to go under it? Those stainless washers are probably fine, but I like spreading the load over as big an area as possible (this coming from a person that can break stuff that should not break!)
  4. Well my trolling motor mount attached to the forward port cap wasnt strong enough and I noticed some stress cracks forming at the trolling motor mount. So, I decided to mount an aluminum plate to the bow pulpit. Here are my pics:
  5. Hi Todd and welcome to the forum! Nice looking boat. Wish the previous owner had contacted me; I would have been more than happy to have kept the hour meter spinning each year and keep the cobwebs off the boat! That is a nice looking boat. Let us know what you did to get it back the way you wanted it.
  6. Hello everyone, I recently became the 2nd owner of this 2007 R265 Walkaround. I purchased it in North Carolina and moved it to my marina on Lake Erie in Ohio. It has twin Yamaha F250's with low hours and runs great. The boat however, was in need of some TLC as it was mostly unused for the last several years. I've had to fix up, replace and repair many things on the boat and have learned a lot along the way. I'll be happy to share information with others.
  7. 2, Many thanks for you comments. It really helped this newbie. I'll be in the water Saturday. Will keep you updated.
  8. If you are concerned about adding height to the front and back skins of the transom and relying on the coosa for a base to work against versus laying up skins to be glassed back for a poured transom, the work and effort are going to be the same. You are still going to have to deal with tying in the front skins to the sides of the wet well area. The joints will be identical and same applies for doing the rear skin. I made new skins for my transom by laying 1 layer of csm and 5 layers of 1708 biax cloth on a waxed piece of tile board so I had a flat panel to work with. Once set up, cut
  9. I believe overall the Coosa board will be easier since I need to raise the transom 2.5" to 3.0". My only concern has been having sufficient space for 2 X 3/4" thick boards. As for the resin I like the idea of having more than a mechanical bond so will go with the laminating resin. If I needed to cap it off for some reason I will get some PVA or wax additive. Any thoughts on PVA vs wax additive? So based on the above, will the outer skin be needed or am I looking at building up layers of 1708 to the outside of the Coosa board and tying it into the hull. I ask mainly that if I am not going
  10. Hi Don and welcome to the forum. Those Mercury's weigh 460 lbs each; the newer Yamaha's are 592 lbs each. Overall weight increase of 264 lbs. Looks like you already have the motors hung on the boat. Best way to check is put boat in the water and get 3 people standing at the transom. If it is a problem, before moving the scuppers, get some of the ping pong ball valves to go over the scuppers so water cannot enter when they are below water level.
  11. Hi all, New to forum. Bought a 1995 2440 came with 2 225 Mercury's. I'm re powering to 2 250hp Yamaha 2005's. Will the weight be a significant factor? Will i have to re locate scuppers?
  12. I saw his sander last week and was thinking it would be something handy, too! Let us know how it holds up. As you say, it is not a Makita, but those crappy brushes in the HF tools seem to never wear out, regardless of how dirty the work area is. I found the switches are what go first. But for this kind of work, HF tools do the job and you don't feel bad if it gets trashed! Where the transom pocket narrows from bottom to top and you want to go with the Coosa coring, I would probably install the first layer of coosa to the inner skin, then let it set up. Be sure to use wedges to push i
  13. Sorry about doubling up on communications, I was so tired last night after working on the boat I thought I forgot to send it...
  14. As an update, I have cleaned the inner skin and have some final cleanup on the sides but in general looking good. Nice to see green polyester color coming through. The photo below is an update and I had to grind the center of the transom until I got to good fiberglass; the middle section just kept peeling away. There is fiberglass present even though it does not look like it. I have beveled the out edge in preparation for adding the outer skin. As for the outer skin, I should have it cleaned up in the next couple of days. A few points to clarify below: Along the sides of the hull, I ha
  15. I think this is beginning to make sense after seeing that picture of the motor and what you are experiencing. Motor is acting like it was way too deep. As the boat comes up to speed, the bullet (section the gears are in) on the lower unit is forming a big area of disturbed water in front of the prop. As a result, the prop is not getting clean water to run in. When you are trimming the motor in, the thrust of the prop is directed somewhat down and it is pushing the boat up at the transom to get it closer to the proper height. Trimming in may also be allowing a little cleaner flow of water
  16. I hope your meeting went well. Not wanting to sound like a know-it-all but from hands on and broken parts over the years I can’t stress enough the need to be anchored onto the floor with backing plates or heavy duty marine toggle type bolts . If the TOP is going to the gunnel cap we ran a support under the cap and to the floor and if it was getting a tower or hardtop on the initial build sheet we Automatically glassed alum. Backing plates to be drill and tapped it in them. Surprisingly more damage came from going down the highway at 75 mph ( yes some do ) on a long trip. cant wait to s
  17. got some follow up info and pictures from an outing today: The bottom paint is in good shape, I inspected it during survey. I got the boat up on plane as usual and trimmed the engine to neutral without tabs; performance immediately suffered. The prop was definitely slipping around 4500rpm and neutral trim, resulting in speed drop, rpm increase and fuel economy drop. It seems that the boat needs to be in a negative trim attitude for the prop to not slip. speeds at various rpm; 3500 -20mph, 4000 -23mph, 4500 -25mph, 5000 -28mph, 5500 -32mph, wot -5900- 35mph. The cavi
  18. Ok, its been a few days but making progress. I have the core material removed as far as I can and have cleaned up the majority of the fiberglass expect some detail cleaning in the side edges. The inside skin down to the hull is all clean and really looks good. The hull edges have been sanded, tapered and ready for the outer skin when I get to that point. I have measured the spacing between the inner skin to outer and found from the hull up roughly 12" it was 1 5/8". From there is decreases quickly to 1 3/8" and remains at that distance so reinforcing the inner skin will decrease the spacing a
  19. Sorry I didn’t see this one before now again. I problem have as many questions as you ? Lol. Let’s start at the front .on most of the older ones there is a little known secret that there is a trough that goes from the center front console at a angle to inside the casting platform on port side. This was to allow you to run wires to the gunnel and around the boat under the cap. This is also where there could be water held in that area and not know it. Second the front of the gas tank ( 60gal.) is under the console and the fill went strait down through the top of the console. There’s a S/S plate
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  21. 2" above the bottom of the hull is on the high side. Looks like there is room to play with height both up or down, but would be nice to have a better view when out of the water. See if you can take a look at the motors when running next time to see if the cavitation plate is above the water when on plane. Trying to locate lower unit gear ratio for that motor is like an Easter Egg hunt! I am going to guess it is 1.75:1 for now. Something is way off. First plugged the numbers in for the screen shot of 4300 rpms at 23 mph and came up with 39.33% slip: Changed the rpms and
  22. 2-N-TOW got some answers for you; It was difficult to measure accurately while the boat is in the slip but I did my best. The motor is mounted on the second from top mounting hole. The engine is a 2012 yamaha f300uca. The prop is a yamaha saltwater series II: 17-T 15 1/2 In neutral postion the Cavitation plate is approximately 2 inches above the bottom of the transom. I had to do some math on this; the top of the Cavitation plate was approx 17.5" from the water line. The transom was approx 20" from the water line. Rough winds today so I didn't run it but will
  23. Ok...that one will need to be done with the brass tube so you will be able to use a standard boat drain plug. Here is a link to the flaring tool: https://www.jmsonline.net/moe-02070000.htm/ If this is your first time doing it, might as well figure on getting a few brass tubes. First time I tried, I mangled 2 tubes before I got it right. I was using a homemade flaring tool and that may have contributed to some of my issues. Here is a link on how to install the tubes: https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/document.do?docId=1022&title=Installing+Drain+Tubes
  24. Thanks reply. It's the drain going outside the boat to the sea. Below the waterline when not moving. Any pictures of the work changing it?
  25. Hi Karlthman and welcome to the forum. Is that the drain for the battery box? Time for a new brass drain tube if you want to re-do it as it came from the factory. Google brass flanged garboard drain tube for the part. To install it, you will need the flanging tool, too. An alternate method if this is the battery box is to drill the existing tube out, find a section of pvc pipe / tubing that is close to the hole size. After the old tube is drilled out, good chance there will be some damp wood core behind the fiberglass. If possible, let it air out for a few days and see if it
  26. Anyone know how to fix this old rusted drain pipe in the back of the transom om my old r2020?
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