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  2. Almost missed this one. At a federal level: H.R. 2236: The Forage Fish Conservation Act Introduced by CSC Vice-Chair Representative Debbie Dingell, H.R. 2236 would ensure that forage fish species are considered for their critical role in marine ecosystem function and health. Currently, the Magnuson-Stevens Fisheries Conservation and Management Act (MSA) manages important forage fish species like menhaden just as they do predator species like greater amberjack, red snapper, grouper, etc., using a single-species management model and managing to a maximum sustainable yield. However, this approach fails to account for the need to leave fish in the water as forage for other recreationally and commercially important fish species, as well as marine mammals and birds. This bill would simply require the regional fishery management councils consider the impacts of forage fish harvest quotas on other fish populations and the marine ecosystem when developing new, or revising existing, forage fish management plans.
  3. I don't know if this will pass, but FINALLY a bill to move menhaden management to scientists: http://www.nmma.org/press/article/23049
  4. Sorry about your reception problem. That and physical access were my main issues in where to mount. I checked how far away I could get from the boat and it's further than I can see the water stream from the engine, so no problems there. In fact I had hoped it wouldn't go so far. The test in the water was just behind the motor and it cut off in seconds and that's the main one I was concerned about.
  5. I have a plb. Its older now. I need the battery replaced. I am very interested in the Inreach SE. I may have to get one.
  6. I put one in my boat too. I put mine in the console on the face. That put the antenna under a Circuit breaker switch panel. There were issues with reception in that location. I have to purchase an external antenna. Your location looks good for reception. I don't know about emergency situations. But its way better to have one, than not. I know the physical bypass works. I had to use it. Pretty easy. Unscrew a cable in the back an put a cap in its place. Worked like a charm. No more MOB capability but it got me back home fine.
  7. Hi Henry and welcome to the forum! Can't help on info regarding the 35'. Most members over here have older Robalos, but we are seeing more people on this site with the newer ones, especially since the holiday break when it appears the factory site had some issues. Hopefully, someone else might have some information that can help you out.
  8. New to forum - we have a 2015 R30 center console - I have seen concept pics of the new 35' - anybody have any info as when it will be released?
  9. Last week
  10. Have you noticed any fuel odor around either the bilge or the inspection port over the fuel sending unit? Any water showing up in the water/fuel seperator filter? These are normally symptoms of a tank issue. With yours being a 2013, I would not be expecting it to have any issues yet. As for what size replacement, without removing the coffin lid and measuring the current one, you can try contacting Robalo Customer Service. I found their parts diagram for you boat and on page 23 it has the tank part no (46.00172). Here is a link to the parts guide for your R180: http://www.robalo.com/publications/uploaded_files/partGuides/2013/180.pdf
  11. How do I get a polyethylene replacement tank for my 2013 R180. I don't know anything is wrong with the Al one. But that is part of the issue. I don't know. You cant get in to really inspect it. Is there a Moeller part number or some other brand part number to look for.
  12. I see what ya wrote! I should know if a week or so if I will be in Orlando the 1st week of April. For the floor it will need some coring. If you could find a quality piece of 1/2" fir plywood, that would be the first choice. Next would be any 5 ply AB plywood other than that crap Lowes and HD sell that has a paper thin top layer (1/64" I think). Lay the plywood in the opening and see how close to flush it is. I am thinking it may be just below the surface of the existibing floor. If too high, grind the outside 2" down so the core is approximately 3/16" below the floor. For layup schedule, one layer of 1708 is all that is required for the bottom side. Prior to laying the fabric on the core, coat it with a layer of resin first and let it sit 5-10 minutes so the wood can absorb the resin. Then lay the fabric, wet out and roll. Go ahead and coat the edges of the plywood at the same time as they will need 2 coats of resin to seal off. Set aside and let cure. Flip over and sand any drips from coating the edges. Sit back in recessed area and see if it is still slightly recessed. Grind back 3" - 4" back on the existing floor to get the proper taper prior to lay-up. Paint the raw edge of the core and set in recess. If there is a substantial gap between the core and existing floor recess, mix up cabosol / resin and pack it in the crack. Now hot coat the top of the core and let sit 5-10 minutes, lay the first layer of 1708 fabric on the core and extending to the top of the taper, and wet out. Lay second layer of 1708 on top and maybe 1" shorter along the edges of the prior piece and wet out. Finally, finish out with a layer or two of 1.5 oz mat extending out to the edge of the taper, wet out, and thoroughly roll out to remove any trapped air. Let set up, then start the fun part of fairing in! Remember to take your time when pouring the foam. That stuff has some pretty good expansion rate. It is better to do small batches until you get a feel on how much it will fill. Once you get it close to the top of the recess, take your core material and tape a piece of plastic to the bottom and sides. Make your final pour and set the core on top prior to it expanding, then weight it down or stand on it for 10-15 minuted to keep if from rising. This will keep the top sealed. If you decide to not go that route, after the foam has solidified, cut it back flush and paint the top of the foam with resin to seal the surface.
  13. I just purchased the Garmin Inreach SE+ on Amazon for $220 (factory refurbished) which I thought was a great price. It looked brand new and activated without any issues. Sent a test text to my wife. It uses bluetooth to connect to your phone to enter texts so it's the same as sending a text on your smart phone, but you can write texts from the unit if your phone is lost or damaged. Everything is working. I signed up for the basic plan which is $15 per month with a yearly fee of $25. I can freeze my account in the off season months to reduce costs. As Fullthrottle mentioned, with this plan you get unlimited "preset" texting with predefined messages and recipients (each text gives the sender your position and a link to a map showing your position). All other texts are $0.50 each with 10 free per month. For example, the 3 preset text messages might look like: 1. heading in 2. everything is ok 3. trouble come get me. You also have an SOS button which contacts an emergency call center which will coordinate your rescue. Better than a PLB in a lot of ways, since you know help is coming in an actual emergency or prevent a rescue from happening if for example; your on a 8 hour limp on the kicker but everyone is safe. In that situation there would be no way to contact the wives and they would be unnecesarily worried (unless you had the Garmin Inreach to communicate). I still have the PLB for last resort, but this is a cool gadget..
  14. Im was going to send front compartment drain out the front with a through hull and pump... or... extend the pipe through into the splashwell... ummmmmmm.
  15. Did I hear you were coming down in April? 🤔 Okay thats more work than I was wanting... So while your at it... I'm gonna fill the in floor fish box with 4# foam. I have 1708 and 1.5 mat. So how about a lay up schedule to make it all floor...
  16. Welcome back! Time for you to find some time in your busy retirement and start using the boat more! The boat does look good on the new trailer, but she is not supposed to be a trailer queen! Is there a drain under that aluminum plate where the engine bolts are attached? I think you said yes, but asking to make sure. My memory is getting bad as i get older. I honestly would have thought those two existing drains would have been at the bottom of the wet well instead of half way up. Down low, gravity would drain all rain water out and also any accumulated water once the boat was underway. If I was to recommend anything, bloc off the two upper drains and install 2 new ones directly below them and just a hair above the bottom of the well so there is enough of an area to apply sealant or epoxy to seal the raw edges. As for installing the pump, initially I would use a piece of flexible bilge hose drain line and just run it over the transom, maybe zip tieing it to the engine bracket to hold in place. This is to give you an idea if it will work as intended. Pump could probably be mounted to a piece of 1/2" starboard during this time. You might find out this is the better way to go and no further mods needed. Now lets talk about those side panels that were cut out at one time. How are they currently attached? I am guessing you installed some type of a backer behind the wall, then attached the panels with a resin/cabosil mixture. It does not appear there is any glass on the outside. Unfortunately, with no glass to tie it all together from the outside, cracks will eventually appear in the fairing compound. First thing that is needed is some grinding of the joints. Get the 4 1/2" grinder out and girnd a bevel on the joint all the way around. Extend the bevel out 2 or 3 inches to each side of the joint and it needs to go all the way through the panel so the grinder just barely kisses the underlying support piece. Cut some strips of 1708 biax cloth; first strip just a hair wider than the bevel, then all subsequent strips 1 inch narrower. 3 strips of the biax should be enough. Now cut 2 strips of mat the same width as the widest piece of 1708. Tape off around the area to be glassed. Brush some resin on the ground surface, then lay the widest strip of 1708 on the joint and wet out until no white fabric. Lay the next smaller width 1708 on the joint, centering it up and wet out. Repeat with the last piece, then use your roller to force all air out of the laminate. Once this is done, lay the first piece of mat on the joint and wet out, then do the same with the second one. After wetting out, roll them thoroughly to get the air out of the laminate, then allow to set up. The idea with the mat is that will be the material sanded down to fair the joint. The 1708 might get a little sanding, but the bulk should be the mat and the joint strength would not be compromised. Once it is sanded flush with the existing glass, spread some 3M Marine Vinylester putty on the joint and sand once more. After that, glazing putty may be required to eliminate any pinholes prior to priming and painting.
  17. I am up for doing that! May need to rely on your expertise of the newer models to help out with questions, if you don't mind. I guess now is a good time to get rid of that old introduction page and have it go straight to our main page, too.
  18. Gotta get Dan back from retirement of yesteryear's and well finish up what we started ummmmmmm.... 7 years ago 🤣 Got some more resin and cloth and cutting tools and a whole lotta are you sure you know what your doing...
  19. And heres a pic of what she looks like from afar...
  20. Cant believe that its been .... oh well. Ive run her in freshwater so far, bought a new trailer so as i can dunk her in the saltwater finally. But im already tired of the water coming through the scuppers, so im'a thinkin, to plug existing splashwell drain, creating a new one lower and install another "garboard" and in my new little well, install an 800 bilge and see what happens.... So what does the "old timers" think...
  21. Dan, the Robalo.com forum has been out for around a month. They had lots of garbage put on the board during the holidays (guess it was not monitored and not protected well enough) and they took it down. So, this is the ONLY Robalo forum up and running at this time. Maybe you'll have to create sections for NEW boats on the board:-)
  22. If the sensor battery (what you wear) dies or gets lost, you can override it for many hours (8 hours each time, I think) and do so multiple times by pressing the MOB control button for 10 seconds. Or, there is a bypass attached to the connected wiring harness and can use the bypass to override the MOB altogether by disconnecting the wire harness going to the MOB and plugging it into the bypass. I tested the MOB control button override and I know it works. Probably check the physical wiring bypass on the next trip out.
  23. Concerning the MOB device, if the batteries die or you lose the wireless puck, are you dead on the water? Or can you over ride it mechanically? Thanks, Steve
  24. Hi u644367 and welcome to the forum. As much as it hurts to say this, you may be better asking your question on the factory site http://forum.robalo.com/ What do you think of the ride and performance of your R227?
  25. Hi , Welcome . I have an r227 thinking of moving up to a r247. Are you enjoying your r247? Any options that you really enjoy. Thanks
  26. Earlier
  27. Hi Nancy and welcome to the site! This forum is more for the older Robalos, but we do have some members with newer year boats. Does seem odd the factory would not offer something like this which is a desired piece on a lot of boats. But look at it kinda like a gift and see if you can purchase the boat with no stereo. Then, purchase an after market model from someone liken Crutchfield or BOE. I can assure you whatever you purchase this way will have a lot more features than the factory option and will sound better, and probably at a better price. Then go with a chartplotter with XM weather. This way you can be sure both the plotter and stereo are network compatible.
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