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  1. Today
  2. 2-N-TOW

    Transom Re-Coring Project

    No - I had not tried them yet. Was trying to come up with a way to get maximum outflow with as little as possible restriction. I may end up with them, though.
  3. Yesterday
  4. asboats2002

    Transom Re-Coring Project

    Did you try using one of the Ball Scuppers ? I have a friend with a 25' Dusky that has had them for like 25 years and they work very well for him.
  5. 2-N-TOW

    Transom Re-Coring Project

    That aluminum channel is the ticket for a backer. I sometimes wish boat manufacturers would use the channel when mounting engines directly on transoms. I have seen lots of large stainless steel fender washers that had belled over time since there is not really any strength to them. Scuppers are a pain when you start changing the weight distrtibution around on the boat. I knew I was on the limits putting a 30" bracket on the 2160 and was able to offset the weight shift some by having an extra large tub built into the bracket. If I was to do it again, I would seriously consider raising the floor an inch...that would have eliminated 90% of my issues on water getting back in through the scuppers. I now have a set of racquetballs with a rope handle that make a perfect plug in the scuppers. The rope handle is yellow so it is easy to find. I just tell anybody new to the boat if we take a wave over the bow, pull the plugs and let the water drain out then stick them back in.
  6. Last week
  7. asboats2002

    Transom Re-Coring Project

    Yea, It's always fun tearing it apart,,,, when you can get to where you need to work ?????? 1 1/2" isn't that work friendly, if you know what I mean..... That causes you to improvise the tools! Whoever did the Full transom ( I heard it was a professional fiberglass boat shop) did do it right, 2- 3/4" marine plywood with a sheet of 1/16" glass laminated in between them. That piece is what made it a little harder to get out, as I had to use the air chisel to break it into pieces before I could break up the wood to vacuum it out. I would have been a much more work intensive job, if I would have had to do it like yours from inside removing everything to get to it, then putting it all back.. As for scuppers, there aren't any, whoever did the full transom, ended the floor about 6" from the transom and built in a small well across the transom, where the drain plug is. I thought about trying to put scuppers in, but decided it was much easier to just put a small automatic bilge pump in there for any water that drained in there. Has worked fine for all 23 years so far, so I'm gonna leave it like that. That way, I don't have to worry about 4 people fishing in the back an having water come in ….. I've attached some more pics of that area, so you can get the idea... Also, whoever did the set up, only had some small square SS pads as reinforcements for the top bolts holding the Gil Bracket, so while I was doing the work, I added the proper C-Channel, which is how that is supposed to be done, that way the load is stretched out across the transom where the pull back is. Bottom hatches allow access to that transom area and the top hatches are a flow thru or circulating bait box. Don
  8. 2-N-TOW

    Transom Re-Coring Project

    Love those "tools of destruction"! Carbon core was definitely the best choice. When I re-did my transom 12 years ago, there were only 2 pour-in-place transom products available; one was a resin/chopped fiberglass mixture and the other was the predecessor to Carbon Core that was being used by the boat manufacturers. Since I was going to change the transom to a full transom like your boat, a poured transom was not the best choice at the time since I was removing the inner fiberglass for additional strengthening. I like the simplicity of replacing the wood with the poured material, though. The transom on your boat looks real nice. Gotta ask, though...did you re-locate the scuppers? I don't see them. Also, if they are in the transom, any issues with the back end sitting low in the water and if multiple people are at the transom water comes in? If so, how do you deal with that?
  9. Thought I'd report on my latest project, on "The Dr. Ann" 1975 R-236 Cuddy Cabin. It's a project probably most people dread the thought of having to do. I've owned this boat now for the last 23 years, bought it from a guy that lived in a waterfront subdivision, but knew nothing about boats...….. It's been a GREAT all around boat for me and I've done a lot of clean-up fix up projects on her over the years. A couple months ago, my neighbor and I took her out to the river to try out a different prop. Upon returning home and beginning to flush the motor, I noticed that the top of the Gil Bracket where it bolts to the transom had about a 3/16" gap ……. At first we thought maybe the bolts had loosened up an just needed some retightening.... Well, after checking it out, we realized that wasn't the case and that the transom core had to be bad !! So I unscrewed the onboard battery charger inside the transom an procee3ded to push a small screwdriver into the hole to check the core...… Ugh,,, immediately, I knew the result wasn't good..... Decided if possible (Depending on how bad the core was ) to do a new pour in core, using "Carbon Bond Transom Pour" product. Decided on this product, since I had a gil bracket with a F-200 Yamaha hanging on it and wanted a product that had a Good Compression Ratio. The comparison was Carbon Bond ( a Resin product with fiber an ceramic sphere fillers) against the Foam pour in products. Carbon Bond has a compression Ratio of 3,895 lbs. per square inch versus the foam products of 700 lbs. per square inch. Needless to say, I chose the Carbon Bond product. In the pics attached, you'll see what I believe was the Real culprit, that wasn't visible to me over the years, because it was hidden by the Gil Bracket top. Someone before me, must have had something screwed to the transom, under the bracket cover AND NEVER closed the hole when they removed it !! So,,, every time the boat was put in the water, water went in the hole and wicked up the core.... Needless to say, and thankfully, it was completely rotten , ALL 8ft. wide by 34 inches deep. The tools I used to clean all this out (it took my 3 days working a few hrs per day ) were; Air Hammer, regular wood Spade bit on extensions, makeshift vacuum tube (1" plastic pipe attached to my shop vac ) and a 1' drum sander on extensions with 60 grit sanding drums. Since it was all rotten, it was fairly easy to breakup an then suck out, it just took a while because your working in the standard 1 1/2 inch core space. I must say, the Carbon Bond was really super easy to work with, and poured thru the makeshift wooden funnel as they suggested. The whole transom was filled to the top and took 17 gallons. The cost of the product was $800. Now , the transom will probably outlive Me !! No more rot EVER !! Hopefully, this will give anyone that may need to do this project, some insight on what to expect. If anyone has any questions, feel free to reply and I'll do my best to answer the questions. Don "The Dr. Ann" 1975 R-236
  10. Here is the wheel a bit more horizontal. Not much progress this weekend.
  11. 2-N-TOW

    Mold/Mildew in carpet in cabin 2440 1995

    Another non-boating cleaning item that works great is Barkeepers Friend. Great for getting rid of stains on fiberglass and non-skid surface cleaning.
  12. I've added a fan to the cabin along with4# of DampRid. Starbrite probably helped but it was not as good as Twenty Mule Team Borax in water and a plastic stiff brush and some elbow grease. We'll see what time does from now until Spring to see if these steps help prevent the mildew. Thanks again for the advice and suggestions.
  13. Trouble is with the “missing” foam? He opened the container of Carboncore which is for the transom. He didn’t know the difference. I’m not sure I did at the time, but I when all the products were given to me I wrote down the name and the purpose. I didn’t have that paper handy that day. But more importantly he should have known. And I’ve lost faith in him plus we have had a falling out over some issues. This isn’t the first time either. So I may he going with a Plan B to get the boat finished by the guy who originally gave me all the product. He was supposed to do the boat a couple years ago, but that never materialized. I don’t know when I’m going back to the project but I do appreciate the encouragement.
  14. Progress looks good. Sorry about the missing foam and having to purchase more. As for pouring too much in some holes, that is par for the course for anyone. I have worked on a number of boats needing foam, and every darn one the first one or two batches are a little too much. One reason I tell people nothing wrong with mixing multiple small batches of the stuff to get an idea of how much it expands and not waste much. Burnout unfortunately is a part of the game when re-doing something this big. Every one of us have hit that point where you are looking at a big mess and wondering what the heck have I done! Best thing to do at that point is walk away from the project for a week or two and get re-charged. Also, set realistic milestones where you are working for an attainable goal for the weekend's effort. Those little victories are very rewarding and you will start to feel like you are making progress again! You will reach the end goal...it just may take a little longer sometimes but the end result is well worth it.
  15. Retainer

    1976 230 slow rebuild begins.

    Oh my...I thought my project was difficult. I didn’t go the length of cutting the deck out like that. But all of the work will be an experience and you will know your boat like no other. Good luck and I will help answer what I can along the way based on my own job.
  16. Retainer

    1974 230 CC Restoration Project

    Nice find! She cleaned up nicely. Almost looks like my ‘78 except for the console. I may have some wiring questions for you, now that you opened up that door haha.
  17. Earlier
  18. As far as the primer and paint, I’m not sure if I posted about the product. I’m using TotalBoat 2 part epoxy primer, then for paint, Quantum 99 from Jamestown Distributors. This is a hybrid between Alwgrip and Awlcraft. Going with fighting lady yellow on hull, Matterhorn white on topsides and whisper gray on the deck.
  19. The deck shown above is before the 20 hours of additional sanding. It’s all set to go now. But I don’t have anymore pictures.
  20. So, much of this work was done before I went to Hatteras on vacation in October. When I returned, I spent about another 20 hours sanding down the deck and grooves, removed the gunnel boards and sanded all those areas underneath and sanded some more. I was hoping to get the boat primed at least before I went to Hatteras, but with the unexpected delays and goof ups, I couldn’t get that completed. So, the boat sits like this until either he heats the shop to prime and paint, or the weather gets warmer. Frankly I got upset with some of the errors and delays, which unnecessarily cost me time and money. So I burned out for a spell. I was going to do a bunch of wiring, but I need some expert help. So here the boat sits, fully sanded and ready for primer once the conditions present themselves.
  21. I painstakingly sanded and sanded more, the main deck and all the grooves. Tedious work. The Dremel saved the day, but I still had to fold up the 120 grit and get in the grooves to fully remove the old paint.
  22. I also installed the oil reservoir as you can see. The 2 batteries will go in the upper right corner. That installation will be done by the engine crew.
  23. On to the decking. Here is the section which fits under the console. I decided to go with a larger hatch to access the fuel connections to the tank. I don’t even want to discuss what it took to get to this decision, but it was my idea. reinforced underneath with 3/4 inch resin encapsulated plywood, followed by 1/2 inch along the sides.
  24. Talk about waste. At this point I was beginning to lose confidence in having him do the project. Prior to installing the tank, I did try to use the drill extension to drill a drain hole out the bottom of the coffin box through the bulkhead with the drill extension, but I was making no progress drilling thru that bulkhead and without any ability to see what I was drilling, I abandoned the idea. I patched the hole with some foam and 5200. The saga continues.
  25. Of course once the foam was poured and job done, he found the two 5 gallon buckets of the part A and B urethane foam. After a week delay and money out of my pocket.
  26. So going back to my post about the foam pour, turns out my boat guy didn’t seem to know which product was which when it came to the 2 part foam. He opened a can of carboncore but it wasn’t the foam. So after a week delay, luckily I have a fiberglass composite company nearby, so I picked up more than enough foam to take care of the tank. here is a pic after the foam pour. He poured too much in some areas and not enough in others but the job was done.
  27. Great! If you have been taking pictures of the progress, please post them.
  28. 2-N-TOW

    console rebuild wish list

    Is the gps a Garmin 3210? I am guessing your steering is not hydraulic. If it is, you may need to modify the fluid fill screw so when it is horizontal, fluid can easily be added. Also be sure you have enough room between the wheel and leaning post with the steering horizontal as it will extend out past the console more than the current set-up depending on where the helm is mounted. Looks like you are using tileboard/melamine hardboard for mocking up the console. That is excellent material for making a one-off mold for the console. Flip it over so the finished side is down. That would end up being the "finished" surface of the new piece. Brace the back side of it with a hot glue gun and wood blocking so it will hold its shape. Don't be shy on bracing it as it will take a little abuse when you lay your glass on the other side. Once you got it formed up, flip it over and fill any areas that need to be built up with Bondo. Sand smooth, trying to sand as little as possible on the melamine finish. Hit it with a couple coats of past wax and buff. When you get your fiberglass supplies, pick up a quart of PVA (mold release) and spray a mist coat on the waxed surface and let thoroughly dry. If you are a little anxious to get to the gelcoating, a hair dryer or heat gun will help speed up the drying process. Next phase is the glass work. I like to use 16 oz plastic cups for mixing resin and gelcoat in. Small batches are easier to manage and you tend to not waste material due to it setting up early. Use unwaxed white gelcoat. Brush on 3 or 4 coats to get ample thickness of material. Once this is done, if you have a cardboard box you can sit over top of the mold then have a small electric heater blow into the box on low setting to make the gelcoat kick off. This should take a couple of hours...you can tell when it is set by testing an edge of the mold to see if any material transfers to your finger. Once it is set up, it will still feel a little tacky since it does not have the wax in it to complete the cure on the surface. This helps the bond between the gelcoat and the follow layers of glass and resin. Cut the mat so you will have 2 layers. Next cut some 1708 biax cloth so you will have 3 layers. The mat goes in the mold first and serves 2 purposes; (1) it will be a sacrificial layer for sanding and fairing and (2) an interface between the gelcoat and cloth to prevent print through of the cloth weave in the gelcoat surface. Lay the first layer of mat on the mold and wet out thoroughly then add the second layer and wet out. Using a bubble buster roller (that is the name...a plastic roller with multiple ridges in it on a wire frame handle), roll over the mat to compact the mat, forcing air out of the layup. Now lay the 1708 layer, wet out, another 1708 layer and wet out, then the final 1708 layer and wet out. Hit the entire layup with the bubble buster roller again and work it over good to get all air out of the layup. Once you are done, clean up the roller with some acetone for later use. Set the mold back in the cardboard box, turn your heater on, crack a cold one and check back on it in a few hours. Once it sets up in a few hours, you can turn the heater off but don't get too anxious to pull it off the mold yet. Let it set up for 24 hours so the "green" layup can finish curing /'hardening. Then you can work it loose with a thin blade putty knife and phase 2 starts on glassing the new piece to the original console.
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