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  1. Last week
  2. Yep, finishing up, my daughter just graduated and my son in the spring. Both went to VA(Radford & VA Tech). Will do. If I was buying one it would have at least a 48" beam for lateral stability. Definitely a decent back bay boat, ideal for crabbing. Take a look at SeaArk for a quality built jon, pricey though.
  3. You may have to loosen the other leg on the front to get enough wiggle room. Plus, it would not be a bad idea to re-seal that one, too, as it is a good chance it may cause issues in the near future.
  4. Thanks for the advice, that’s what I will do. Hopefully there is enough play once I loosen the bolts to lift the flange up enough to apply the sealant. I’ll let you know how it goes. Cheers.
  5. There is no flat gasket between the hardtop flange and boat. Remove the bolts and see if you can raise the flange up a little to shoot some polysulfide sealant like BoatLife caulk or a marine silicone. Be sure to get it so it extends back from the edge of the flange to the bolt holes. Ideally if you can keep the flange about 1/8-1/4" above the boat for 24 hours to allow the caulk/sealant to cure, this will insure there is a good seal between the two pieces and all be eliminate the chance of squeezing all the sealant out from between the pieces when tightening it down.
  6. Can anybody help providing a high resolution image of the fish from the very front of the decal to make a replica? (Fish only) Or better a paper tracing of the decal, these are not easy to find and we want to make a replica of it. This is for a 1993 Robalo 2520 Center console, I found that other models from 1993-1997 use this decal also. Thanks in advance for your help!!!
  7. Has anyone else experienced this? I noticed some water on one of the cushions, after searching for the leak I noticed the carpet on the cuddy interior ceiling at one of the 4 bolt connections for the T Top was soaked. The water is definitely coming through here. Is there a rubber gasket of any kind on the top side that needs replacing. Or should I unscrew the 4 bolts, pull the connection up on the top side of bow and apply silicone all around and then tighten back up? Any insight/expertise would be greatly appreciated.
  8. I hear ya on the tuition. Thankfully that is behind me now (finished up a year ago), but still have a little balance to finish paying off where mom and dad had to "subsidize" a little more than expected. Make it a point to check back frequently...I may need to bounce some ideas off ya regarding these metal boats. The bad thing about this is it got me thinking it would be nice to have a second "small" boat for running into shallow water down at the beach. Plus it did not help when my brother got a deal on a 14 ft john boat with a 25 Yamaha. He says the metal boat goes out 5 times more
  9. Yeah, haven't looked here much since selling the 1820 to help with kids tuition. I know what you mean on the jon boat prices, have looked for a wider beam version for local large mouth fishing. No such luck at those prices, they can keep'em. Ended getting an old Ouachita 12' jon(max 5hp rated) with a 36" beam, free from my Dad's old neighbor. Tippy is an understatement, need to add some lateral stability. Thinking of some sort of foam floatation on the sides, just above the water surface when underway, yet stable at rest.
  10. Talk about a voice from the past....glad to hear from ya again. This damn thing has gone in a totally different direction the last few weeks. Now I am looking for a 12 or 14 ft john boat to put this on. People are asking almost new prices for 20 year old aluminum boats! We shall see what comes of it or I just go ahead list it and move on to something else.
  11. Earlier
  12. If you get a chance, do a test run with the old prop so you have a good baseline at the current height. I really thought with raising the motor that much the rpms would have been better. If you see the same rpms with the old prop, then the tach is suspect.
  13. Cool, patience pays off...in theory. Like you don't have enough going on to take on a project.
  14. OPERATION SLUGGISH PIG - 1980 R200 Center Console Episode II: The Reckoning Launched at Great bridge lock park. Forgot to put the drain plug in the bait well. drained the bait well by putting boat on plane. Gravity and suction of the open valve took care of it. Next came sea trials. Test Date: Nov 10, 2020 Centerline Length: 19'5" Beam: 96" Motor: Single 1993 Evinrude 150 Propeller: Michigan Wheel 14.5 x 15"P 3 blade Stainless Load: (Est) 3220lbs Speed: at 4000 rpms 24mph at 4500 rpms 28mph at 4800 rpm 32mph. Still a little on the slow side but did pick up 200 rpms. I don't r
  15. You have good weather this weekend for testing it! Did you notice any differences between that beat up aluminum prop and this one? One thing to "warn" you about, stainless wheels tend to have a little more cup on the trailing edge of the blade than the aluminum wheel. That cup makes the blade more efficient in moving water as that trailing edge will act as a higher pitch prop the last 1/2 inch of blade. And to add even more confusion to this, if you get a wild hair to try a BRP Rebel prop, go 2 inches less pitch or it will hold rpms down as those props have a much more aggressive blade
  16. OPERATION SLUGGISH PIG - 1980 R200 Center Console I started this topic in a different thread but this one is more appropriate. Took this boat out for shakedown a week ago and it would not go over 4600 RPM's at WOT. The prop was a beat up aluminum one. Dan recommended the information on this thread. I was able to raise the cavitation plate up 3 holes (2 1/4") to a little over an inch above the keel line. This morning, I found a like-new 14.5 x 15 stainless Michigan prop on my front steps. (a gift from the ebay fairy) and installed it. Looking forward to another sea-trial soon. S
  17. I might have to button her up for the winter. So far no one has wanted to come look at it and I have gotten a couple of $1500 offers sight unseen. It is OBO but I am not dropping that low!
  18. 2-N-TOW

    93 2440

    Hi Steve and welcome to the forum. Sorry to hear about the tree. Those parts are going to be hard to come up with. Two places I can think might have something are Marine Liquidators and possibly Great Lake Skipper.
  19. Steve H

    93 2440

    Hello all, Tree fell on my boat, would anyone know where to find a bow railing and starboard side windshield frame? Thanks in advanced for any help or advice. Also I'm new to this so bear with me. Steve H. 93 2440 275 merc
  20. Saw that on Facebook Marketplace. With a newer gas tank $3000 is a great price. Someone will snap it up for sure. Might have to wait until spring.
  21. The weather is suppost to clear this weekend so I'll give it a test soon. The 15 1/2 x 15 prop that is on it now is a beat up aluminum one. The boat also came with a 14 x19 stainless. Today was trailer shopping day. Budget Boats in Chesapeake carries new aluminum brand name Venture Trailers. Rob from there recommended a float on bunk model. Still can't believe I'm going to spend more on a trailer than on the boat's hull! But that can wait til April.
  22. At least it is a good start! Glad to hear you were able to use the trailer jack to move it. It can sound a little intimidating reading it, but is really very simple and easy as long as you plan it out and not completely remove both bottom bolts once the top ones are out. Let us know how it runs once you get that last bit of height increase accomplished...I think you will see a noticeable difference. BTW...does it have an aluminum or stainless prop?
  23. The Case of the Sluggish Pig: The old trailer jack trick worked fine, got it done just before the rains started. The motor height is now maxed out at the bottom slot. I gained about an inch. The cav plate is now even with the keel. To get another 1" to 1 1/2" , I'll have to drill new holes and seal up the old ones.
  24. If you run into any issues, let me know. Worse case, drag the boat to my place and we can pick up the motor with the front end loader while messing with the height.
  25. No backing plates on mine; just washer and locknut. You should be able to raise that motor if it is sitting all the way down on the transom. The top holes on the midsection have holes every 3/4", bottom has a slot. If the motor is all the way down on the transom, bottom bolts should be at the top of the slot and I hope the top bolts are in the highest hole. Motor can be easily raised by lowering trailer jack some, then put blocks of wood under lower unit skeg. Back out top bolts so they are just inside the transom and out of the way of the midsection. Loosen the lower bolts just enou
  26. The motor height is too low. The cav. plate is about an inch below the boat bottom when you put a straight edge on the keel. I guess the transom needs to be rebuilt up 2 1/2 to 3" upward or better yet 7 1/2 to 8" and upgrade to a 25" late model Yammi. This is going to be more difficult than a regular rotten plywood transom build. I think a previous owner used a pour in transom and it may be hard to dig it out. I have a question, too. One of the bow rail bases is lose. Is the bow rail fastened with machine screws into a backing plate on the other side of the fiberglass ??
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