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  1. Today
  2. Totally agree. My first Drone cost $400 9
  3. He sprayed it. I had asked to do it to start learning but he said “we don’t have time to let you mess it up” or something like that. I let it go...it isn’t worth the battle.
  4. That is an awsome shot! Amazing what inexpensive toys (relatively speaking) can do today that just 5 years ago was either impossible or would have required $50k worth of equipment.
  5. Yesterday
  6. Looks good! Did you spray the primer or your painter? Just curious if you were trying to pick up a new skill
  7. H-1 Drone picture from yesterday's San Diego's Bay Fair
  8. Console has primer. I worked on sanding/scuffing the white paint overspray on the deck today. The deck paint is coming Tuesday. I will need to fix that one faulty caulk area first before painting in that area.
  9. Last week
  10. Hi Lead Pipe and welcome to the forum. We don't have any 1974 information, but here are the specs for the 1975 model: Empty hull only weight is listed as 1800 lbs. Add engine weight, fuel (60 gallons @ 6.6 lbs per gallon), batteries, and misc stuff. I would guess you probably have a 3500 lb axle on the trailer now. Are you going with conventional spring or torsion axle?
  11. I’m buying a new axel for the trailer that this boat sits on. I want to confirm the weight of this boat. Thanks!
  12. Lol, yes not the same shop... the first set of pics was at my fathers house in Solomons MD, now it is up in Middle River MD at the marina where I have 18ft doors... Yeah, these are the older style brackets.... I really need to see where it sits in the water after I get some gas in it... If these brackets were at least sealed up they would provide some floatation, approx 4 cubic feet which would be about right what I need in floatation. The easy and cheap way to get by is ping pong balls or a bladder inside of the existing brackets since they are wide open. But I am all over the country so there is a chance I may find one for sale for stupid cheap and I can pick it up... I have seen D and D before, they do nice work.... if I get a bracket built I will probably try to have it built to get as close to the contour of the V in the hull as possible without interfering with the trim tabs... That way it should respond more like a larger boat and add to the floatation rather than just a boat with a bracket on it...
  13. We just talked about next years eastern events. Definitely on the radar screen.
  14. 4200 Fast Set adhesive as long as the gap is not too big (check manufacturer specs for max gap size). Be sure to tape off both sides of the area prior to shooting the sealant in the joint and minimize clean up. If the gap is greater than 3/8", Plexus Adhesive would be the next recommendation. Jamestown Distributors would be a good contact to determine which Plexus to use.
  15. That shop does not look like the one in your first set of pictures when you were first showing the boat! No way that t-top made it through a standard garage door. Dammit...that was not what I was expecting for the bracket. No floatation at all back there. I was kind of hoping it had the tub already in place for a dual engine set-up and extended swim platform out to the sides of the hull. What I was thinking about was fabricating some fiberglass floats to go under the swim platform but sit above the actuators for the trim tabs. I suppose you could still do the same thing with this bracket, but my idea may kill the aesthetic looks back there. If you decide to do some bracket shopping, contact these guys: http://www.dadmarine.com/index00.html They built mine back in 2006 and it is still holding up as good as the day I installed it. They have a lot of options for custom brackets and can oversize the floatation tub to meet your needs.
  16. Not sure what is happening with this project. But I ended up using plywood to recore my deck, lots of resin and glass.
  17. These are the only pics I have at the moment, I will be back up there by Friday to get some different angles for you... Basically it is 2 single brackets with a stainless plate connecting them together, very well built by Armstrong.... There is gap between the brackets about 18in or so wide... They are wet brackets too, all open... I almost think I could effectively seal the joints up and have a piece of stainless to cover the entire open part as well... I've also considered having a center piece along the bottom to match the contour of the brackets and add an air bladder or ping pong balls to that as well... I dunno, ideas but I am realistic that it could start to get just as expensive going that way as just getting a custom bracket built, I've got plenty of sources to build a bracket for me or just go with an Armstrong or Stainless Marine... Go figure, I literally just sold my old bracket on THT days before getting this boat lol, go figure... I'm anxious to get back working on it, but I'm getting ready to head to California for a load and then it runs right into my busy season so there will only be a few days here and there with the exception of my father maybe working on a few things... So collecting some parts on my time off and planning the next stages of the build...
  18. Yes, that would be annoying, I'm always open to suggestions especially from experience in the industry but I wouldn't want it to be their way or no way... I've been doing most of the work myself since I had the time off to get it done and luckily I have had the run of the shop so this has been great... From what I've been told the 2680 was a pretty rare bird, I loved the lines and was a solid hull and awesome that it was already modified to a full transom, basically it just needed to be brought up to date some before I started getting carried away lol... You are correct, you can easily start down the rabbit hole, ESPECIALLY with a boat as we already have....
  19. I came across this post, and leads me to question a couple things on my resto. Should I take some 4200 or a different product to seal the space between the cap and hull before I reinstall the rubrail? I was thinking I should squeeze 4200 in all the holes and fill the seam as well. Then screw in the rubrail. Dunno if the screw holes will align as before. But thinking if not, the old holes will be sealed. then again, this is a 1978 boat. This area of the boat has held up pretty well. But I’d like to seal it all nice and tight before the rubrail. What do you think?
  20. That is a nice rig. I don’t think I’ve ever seen one before. I too had labor coming my way by barter, but my guy is seriously difficult. Not open to any other way or suggestions except his own as he keeps reminding me he has “done this for 38 years.” hopefully, you have a pleasurable experience and believe me you will know the inside out of your boat . I’m hoping to get in the water mid October so anyway.... I am looking forward to watching your project. Good luck with everything. And remember...”while we are here” leads to one thing after another.
  21. If you get a chance, post some pictures of the engine bracket, back view, side, view, and looking up under the bracket along the outside above the trim tabs. I got some hair brained ideas kicking around based on some of the comments you made on the other thread about trying to increase the floatation at the transom.
  22. Darn...was hoping you guys were going to be able to make it to the East Coast. New Martinsville has a lot of history with the inboarders...lots of records were set there. It was also the location of the first American Performance Racing Super League series race back in 1987 and I participated in that and stayed with them for 17 years.
  23. Our last event of the year is a vintage only one called Mahogany and Merlot. It's cosponsored by the Hydroplane Museum and local businesses. Lake Celan, Wa. Oct. 4 - 6
  24. No. We couldn't find a sponsor to pay for the fuel to get there.
  25. Seriously, I was absolutely impressed with the work you did... You made it look easy! I love seeing projects like this myself, I rarely try to get involved in my own and this one just happened because I tend go down the rabbit hole when I see things that aren't right or will be a problem down the road... I may be consulting you on some of the glass projects, I have done fiberglass work in the past but I think you far exceed my craftsmanship level by a long shot... Lucky for me he was is a master electrician with about 50+yrs experience and managed the electrical engineering depts for a nuke plant and the LNG plant and just retired last June so he had time to assist, I would have never been able to get this much done without his help... He did act like he didn't want to get involved with this prohect but I think he did that so my mother would stay off of his case, lol... I told him this is a great father son project since we never got to restore a classic car together, deep down I know he is having fun and it is great getting to work on a project with my father since we are both getting older and I now technically live 900 miles away... It is rare for me to have time to invest like this, lucky for me it is summer time and I am a bit slower than the spring and fall seasons, progress will start to slow when October hits, that reality makes me sad but we all have to put food on the table somehow... I hope to be complete by mid to late December at worst but we shall see, it is easy to get behind... I have really lucked out with my connections over the years so finally pulling my wild cards and bartering work etc has really paid off in a HUGE way, beyond what I would have ever asked for or expected to be honest... I was able to move them even further forward than I originally expected, those spaces under the corner steps of the cuddy look like they were made for the batteries, moving that much weight forward will make a huge difference. I ran 2awg to the stern for the motors and by our calculations that should have been larger than needed. I also moved the BEP switches to inside the cuddy where I plan to mount them behind an access panel on the starboard bulkhead for a nice clean layout and install. Currently the waterline appears to be at the scupper level BUT when they put the full transom in they left the tapered area of the splashwell (which made no real sense to me), I plan to raise this area of the deck which looks like it will give me 4-5in above the old waterline which should give me a nice safety buffer... I will probably leave the current gill brackets for now until I see how it sits and rides, if it sits lower than I want I am working on a few ideas to displace the water from the brackets, either the cheapest way which would be adding ping pong balls (sounds dumb but I know it will work), add a custom made heavy duty air bladder (I found a company that will do this for me at a fairly reasonable rate), or lastly have a custom bracket built for the application... I honestly think I can get by without replacing the bracket at the for the time being (I won't lie, I somewhat like the design but we shall see)... Here is the LINK to my new thread for other people to follow along with my progress, for some reason I am having problems uploading additional pics I'm not sure if it is on my end or the system but maybe you can tell me what is happening...
  26. So to catch everyone up I ran into a deal that I could'n't turn down, I sold my Classic Mako and on the same day I stumbled into a Robalo 2680... I knew it needed a little bit of work and I expected a repower within about 1yr but it came earlier than expected but that is ok, just means it will take a few extra months before I can take it out fishing... The boat was setup pretty much how I would have wanted it, the former owner had an older autopilot system, self leveling Bennett trim, they had added a full transom and a bracket that had twin Johnson 150s. Compression tested out great on the mtors but further diging discovered that the port motor was in need of some work and I just wasn't willing to spend the money in those motors so I decided to go with a repower to some Yamaha SWS 2 OX66 motors... That is how it started before I decided to take off down the rabbit hole last week... Basically I turned a simple repower into a mini series of "This Old Boat" lol... I have several customers that I had bartered some work with to cover a lot of the expenses that I was going to incur on this project so that got me a spot inside the shop at their marina which gave me around the clock access to work on the boat so between me and my retired father we have invested a LOT of time last week to get into this project... I am going to post several pics to show what has been done so far but basically we have decided to break the project up into phases. So far I am actually way under budget on repairs and way ahead of what I expected the schedule to be, BUT... things will start to slow down some since I am coming into my busy season and I will have to start working more however I do plan on having things completed by late December (that is the goal anyways, we shall see)... I will have to add a lot of the details over the next few days to catch everyone up to speed since this was not a planned event but once I got into it I knew it was the right thing to do... I am going to try to outline what we found during the repower which made up my mind to take it to the next level... During the repower we noticed that their were so many add on's and after thought thru the years so I decided it was better, easier and cleaner to just start cutting the wires and cables.... The boat sat a bit low in the stern after the other owner had added the bracket, I figured since I was adding another 160-180lbs with the Yamaha motors that it was best to relocate the batteries as far forward as possible to counter the weight.... I also noticed that I can actually raise the rear of the deck about 5in higher than it currently is and that would provide a great deal of a safety buffer as well (this is a phase 2 project)... While pulling the wires and old cables out of the conduit we realized that the fuel fill hose was in an advance stage of decomposing (steel spiral reinforcement was deteriorated and hose was extremely brittle), so this became a priority as well... While under the helm I decided the rat nest of a wiring disaster had to go (my father is a master electrician by trade for the last 55yrs and he agreed).... Overall the entire boat was rock solid with no soft spots or noticed rot except for 1 area, above the new transom whoever did the glass work took a short cut and used wood to help form the new cap area in the stern but they never fully encapsulated the wood core with fiberglass, so it was DESTROYED (this is a phase 2 project as well)... I plan to add a flip down bench seat in the stern of the boat to make it passenger friendly but maintain a nice open deck to fish... I already aquired a nice leaning post to replace the pedistal seats and I also decided that I love teak but I am known to neglect it so I am doing away with all of the teak trim onboard...Lastly I decided I was not a fan of the tinted sliding lexan under the helm so that is on the remove and replace list... I am sure that I am forgetting some things so if it is obvious just post a reply... I will add to this list once I get more organized but I am paraphrasing 1 solid week of work done... The phases that I have planned are as follows: Phase 1 - Repower and electrical redo - Twin Yamaha SWS 2 200s - relocate batteries from stern to bow - rewire entire boat from bow to stern complete blueprinted electrical system with heat shrink labeling for ID - update from 2 battery system to a 3 battery system - add BEP 3 battery switch panel with dual DVSRs - add custom switch panel (I happen to have a few engineers at my disposal who may complete a special surprise that no other boat on the market has seen before, I am not able to go int too many details on this right now but trust me it will be high tech and sexy) - redo fishbox macerators with dual Whale Guler 320 pumps - add 2nd bilge pump for redundancy - decide what I am going to do with the livewell (currently accepting ideas to make it better) - replace all fuel lines -inspect, clean and treat fuel tank - remove Bennett hydraulic tabs and replace with Lenco actuators and controls - add my Lewmar H1000 windlass (deciding now on what style pulpit roller) - update all lights onboard to modern LEDs - add transom lights - add under gunwale LEDs accent light (have to look good at the docks lol) - add LED accent lights in cuddy Phase 2 - Minor fiberglass repair/ modifications - repair and shorten stern fiberglass cap - raise rear deck of old splash well to deck height (4-5in height added above waterline) - tab in and fiberglass between gunwale and cuddy (poor design noticed, pics coming) - remove all teak trim and accents and replace with modern vinyl trim - install new leaning post - add removable acrylic/ canvass windshield and sides - contour 2 spots on the gunwale that the bow rail used to go back to (hard to explain but will see in pics to come) - Fiberglass in access hole that we had to cut in order to replace fuel fill tube (or be lazy and add a pie plate access hatch) - redesign center console to accommodate new electronics package -replace bulkhead walls in cuddy (had some rot on the bottom caused by no culking around the bottom of the cap allowing water to go forward) - design and add fold up bench seat to stern area - reupholster entire boat including cuddy area Phase 3 - Painting the entire boat and final cosmetics - fair and prep topside for paint - fair and prep hull for paint - soda blast/ remove bottom paint- Alexseal bright white for topside paint - Alexseal bright white with soft sand nonskid on all topside walking surfaces above the main deck - Alexseal light grey with nonskid on all deck surfaces - Alexseal blue (color to be determined, possible to go with a full custom color) - Interlux VC Performance Epoxy white on bottom of hull from waterline South - Considering replacing rubrail with a new Taco rubrail system in all white (we shall see how I feel when I get there) - Add the to be determined boat name (that the Admiral approves) Phase 4 - Outfit with full package electronics and final accessories - Planned to add Simrad NSS12 EVO 3 full system with radar and totalscan - add a decent stereo system (I am not a big music fan but the Admiral likes to listen to music while onboard so I will comply) - add radar pedestal with integrated anchor light - add some Taco outrigger bases to hardtop Phase 5 - Get out on the water!!!! Below is what was accomplished over the last week: - Battery system was updated from a 2 battery system to a 3 - BEP 3 battery switch panel w/ dual DVSRs was installed - Old Johnsons were removed and replaced with the Yamaha 200 SWS 2 motors (final rigging will be completed by my buddies service manager later this week, since he is the pro at it I just prefer the grunt work) - Batteries were relocated from the stern all the way to the cuddy where we found nice little voids under the steps of each corner. - Entire boat was gutted of old electronics and wiring and we rewired from bow to stern (all of the main heavy cables were pulled in place along with several 12ga conductors that will eventually be switch legs for accessories and etc) - Proposed accessories were planned out and ready to be implemented - Removed old Bennett trim tabs and pump and replaced with Lenco electronic actuators - New fuel lines were installed - New fuel fill tube was installed (the old one was dry rotted and the steel coil around it was rusted out) - Fuel tank was pumped out, inspected and treated - Pedestal seats were removed - Upholstery has been sent over to my other customer to get replaced - All of the old gauges were removed from the console That is all right now, I feel that we made some awesome progress with the 2 of us putting in a total of 5 full 14-16hr days on the boat last week.... It really helped having the boat inside of the shop at the marina in my own bay and being able to stay until early morning hours, not to mention having a shop that was well tooled, supplies were on hand when needed and was just added to my tab... I am way ahead of schedule and believe it or not even with all of the work being done s far I am under budget since I am getting most of the supplies at cost and have been doing 95% of the labor ourselves to save my credit with them and use them when I need it most... Phase 2 may actually start ahead of schedule.. It doesn't look like my pics want to upload for some reason, maybe it is something with my connection or an internal error, I dunno if any mods want to look at it maybe you can let me know what I am doing wrong... Hopefully I can get some pics attached over the next few days, in the meantime here is a LINK to my other posts before I began this project.
  27. Thanks for the compliment. Mine is still going strong, just looking a little rough due normal wear and tear. Depending on how things work out in the near future, may have to give it a little "face lift". Sounds like you and your dad work together real well to get that much done. You are right about having a place out of the weather to work on it and not have to worry about buttoning it up every night or dealing with weather interruptions. You are also in the minority for doing a rehab as most of us were never ahead of schedule but always complaining about how behind we were! I am glad to hear that you were able to move the batteries forward. I am a firm believer that even on a big boat, anything you can do to shift weight away from the transom is a big help. 3 batteries is around 180 lbs, so that now allows one more adult to fish off the transom and not have it floating low back there where water can splash in the scuppers. Keep us updated as we love watching projects like this.
  28. Well a quick update... I hope to start the new thread tonight if I have the time (I saw the work that you had done on your boat and I was very impressed, great work!!!)... I am back to work right now so no more fun time with the boat but me and my father put in some late nights all week on the boat and to sum up the progress here is goes: - Battery system was updated from a 2 battery system to a 3 - BEP 3 battery switch panel was installed - Old Johnsons were removed and replaced with the Yamaha 200 SWS2 motors (final riggind will be completed by my buddies service manager later this week, since he is the pro at it I just prefer the grunt work) - Batteries were relocated from the stern all the way to the cuddy where we found nice little voids under the steps of each corner. - Entire boat was gutted of old electronics and wiring and we rewired from bow to stern (all of the main heavy cables were pulled in place along with several 12ga conductors that will eventually be switch legs for accessories and etc) - Proposed accessories were planned out and ready to be implemented - Removed old Bennett trim tabs and pump and replaced with Lenco electronic actuators - New fuel lines were installed - New fuel fill tube was installed (the old one was dry rotted and the steel coil around it was rusted out) - Fuel tank was pumped out, inspected and treated - Pedestal seats were removed - Upholstery has been sent over to my other customer to get replaced - All of the old gauges were removed from the console That is all right now, I feel that we made some awesome progress with the 2 of us putting in a total of 5 full 14-16hr days on the boat last week.... It really helped having the boat inside of the shop at the marina in my own bay and being able to stay until early morning hours, not to mention having a shop that was well tooled, supplies were on hand when needed and was just added to my tab... I am way ahead of schedule and believe it or not even with all of the work being done s far I am under budget since I am getting most of the supplies at cost and have been doing 95% of the labor ourselves... Phase 2 may be start ahead of schedule...
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