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  2. Hi Jared and welcome to the site! I also have a 2160 with the bimini top and considered going with the hardtop. Problem is there are very few 2160's out there and almost all are bimini tops. The previous owner of my boat had a hardtop on the 2160 and someone decided they would like it for their boat and removed top, pipe work, and motor from his beach house. The only alternative is to talk to a local fabricator about doing the pipework, then build the top how you want it. Just be sure to size the tubing to allow enough room for the wiring to run in.
  3. I have a 93 Robalo 2160 that has a standard biminy top. The boat is in great condition with lots of life left in it. Ideally I would like to find another 2160 that is being scrapped that is equipped with a hard top I could remove and replace on mine. I'm well capable of the work and have the tooling I'd need. I'd just need come up with the bits I need. Are there any resources that would help me accomplish this? I'm posting pics of what I'd like to locate. Thanks in advance, Jared
  4. 6 1/2 year old thread brought back to life...this may be the record yet! I would probably go back to the existing thru hull instead of relying on it draining to the bilge. Change out the existing fitting for either a stainless or marelon fitting. Also, I am not sure if your fuel coffin has a drain at the back that drains into the bilge, so the reason for not recommending that. When you dig the foam out up front, check the limber holes up there for any debris blocking them. You may need to get creative and have some type of channel between the inside of the hull and the foam along the lowest portion of each compartment so any trapped water has a way to drain to the centerline and out to the bilge.
  5. @2-N-TOW Digging up an old thread... I am restoring a badly abused 1996 Robalo 2120 that I took on as a project. At some point I assume, the port side thru-hull drain fitting cracked or seal failed and whoever owned it filled the drain with 4200! It is just globbed in there completely filling the drain hole. This thru-hull drain is connected to my bow locker limber holes and now water was trapped in the drain lines. A NY winter came and those drain lines froze and cracked. Now every time it rains the water is filling the bow. My plan to fully remedy the issue is to essentially cut the lockers out completely, exposing the entire bow. Digging out all of the (assumed) soaked foam and replace with new. My question is... do you think it would be best to abandon the port side thru-hull fitting and drain the lockers directly to the bilge? I can have it dump into the fuel coffin and drain back that way. Or leave it as is?
  6. NserSFL- Great to see a classic still looking that good. I am assuming it has had a renovation previously done to it? Any idea how many hours on that Mercury? Those old motors were strong and have a nice sound when running wide open!
  7. Name: Nick Location: Port Saint Lucie, FL Year: 1978 Model: R200 Power: 1978 Mercury 200
  8. Earlier
  9. My guess is they've never really cared for their customers much after purchase and running the forum, while not participating, has consumed some time and resources. However 'haz' posted this and at least the content won't be lost: I've begun a fresh saving of the Forum pages using the Wayback Machine of Archive.org. I'll keep chipping away at creating a current archive until the Forum is decommissioned. Results of this swan-song effort -- and earlier saves of pages -- are available at https://web.archive.org/web/*/http://forum.robalo.com/. The Robalo Boat Owners Group Facebook page with 8,800 members is likely one of the best resources available to us. Membership in that group is available for the asking at https://www.facebook.com/groups/1711553655771436/ Good luck!
  10. Maybe with no fuel, batteries, and motor trimmed up! Motor down...better add another 8-12 inches.
  11. Anybody know why they are discontinuing it? Facebook has its place, but forums seem to be better suited for tracking specific topics and projects. It would be nice to see some of that traffic come back here, though. BTW...I am open to any suggestions to make this place better suited for you!
  12. Ugh. Anything but FB. Maybe owners who, like me, avoid FB will join here. This one has always been better anyway since Robalo never really supported or assisted owners on their own forum and here you can get information and assistance from Robalo owners.
  13. Is this true If so I hope we can meet on fb or somewhere.....scott st clair chester NH
  14. And another question? The pecs for this boat says that it drafts in 9 inches of water. Is that really true I'm sure after I make these modifications that it will change the draft but is it really originally 9 inches like Holly crap
  15. Welcome and thanks for taking a stroll down our cyber docks.
  16. Yep got my letter. Looks like we might get a little more busy.

  17. So I'm thinking I want a bench seat stretching across the whole transom and I'm gonna do a leaning post live well. I'm trying not to put to much weight in the back cuz I'm using the Armstrong bracket and it'll make her sag more in the back.
  18. Anybody else get this email from the Factory Robalo forum?
  19. Do you have any speakers mounted up front? If so, take one out and see if you can work thru that hole to run a stiff wire to the pulpit area.
  20. Poly will be fine...was just throwing the vinyl out there as an option, especially if you were considering epoxy. What are the plans for the top of the transom? Just a flat area or are you going to construct some type of livewell / cooler arrangement? If livewell, height is fine as you can add to the bottom of the lid structure so it sits at the same height as the gunwhales. I personally like having the transom the same height as the gunwhale. Adding a piece to the top of the existing coosa board is no big deal since it all gets glassed over. When you install the coosa, be sure to make up a thickened mixture and load up the radius on the hull side and bottom so when you bed the coosa in it, there are no voids. This will also allow you to pull a filet where the second board meets the hull and bottom, making it so much easier when glass over the radius of the filet instead of trying to do a sharp bend from the transom to the hull. I forgot you were going with the full transom when I replied yesterday. Take a look at your stringers and plan on extending them back to the transom at the full heigjht. This will help stiffen the transom and also give you some support for the floor when installed. I made some filler blocks from coosa to extend my stringers to the transom.
  21. I have the pulpit off and made a second access hole and tried to fish down the side but it’s all foam and I can only get about 18” and hit something solid.
  22. My buddy has a hook up on poly resin so I'm going with that but I might try vynilester if I can afford it I've already cut out one sheet of Coosa for my transom for shirts and giggles πŸ˜ƒ. Does it seem right like should I make the cut out shorter or leave it be.
  23. You cleaned it up real good. Are you planning on re-installing the wet well? You also need to scuff the fiberglass about 8" back where the stringer ends at the transom so it can be tabbed back into the front of the transom when putting it all back together. Just hit the surface of the glass enough to give it a rough surface for the tabbing to adhere to. Also, extend the rough sanding forward about 8" from where the transom core will end to allow for tabbing all around the transom to the hull on both the sides and bottom. Use the edge of the grinder to get into that area where the transom transitions to the sides, too, all the way to the top. This makes a much better surface to bond to. Another thing...where the stringer will meet the transom after it is glassed will need a limber hole to allow any water that is on the outside of the stringer to drain to the bilge. Probably the easiest way to address this is after the transom is in the boat and all tabbing complete. Then drill a hole as close to the bottom of the stringer as possible and either glass in a piece of pvc tubing to seal the hole from the wood in the stringer. That swiss cheese looking fiberglass around the transom cut-out...cut it out now. What is your plan for attaching the core to the transom skin; epoxy or resin? If resin, use vynilester as it has much stronger bond properties than polyester. I used vynilester and mine has held up very well over the years. Once that bond between the core and old skin is complete, you can finish up with polyester as it is compatible with vynilester resin.
  24. Do you have a path from the console to the underside of the gunwhale you could run a new wire for the bow light? This is the only idea I can think of. You will need to screw some of the zip tie style wire looms to the underside of the gunwhale to support them.
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