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  1. Today
  2. I use West System. Any decent one will work (Raka and TotalBoat are a few others). Make sure what hardner you get if working in cold temps...West System has a tropical hardner for warm weather and you don't want to accidentally use it when temps are in the 50's or it will take a loooong time to cure!
  3. Yesterday
  4. Oky doky. Sounds like a plan. I'll have to be creative to chisel the wood out, but there is definite rot on that side. Port side holders seem solid, I might remove them and make sure the wood is sealed up while I am at it. What kind of an epoxy do you recommend to mix w the cabusol?
  5. The wood core was originally glassed in. Over time moisture has worked into the wood and the bond to the glass has been compromised. Don't think it is just your boat; I have the same thing going on with mine. First thing I would do is remove as much of the wood around the hole as possible if there is any sign of rot. Tape off any holes on the underside, then get some epoxy and mix it with cabosil to make a thick peanut butter consistency and pack it in the area the wood was removed. It has to be thick enough so it will not flow...needs to be like a thick paste. Pack it in there the b
  6. It appears that the wood is not glassed in but laying on top of the fibreglass with the cover plate screwed and caulked onto the wood. Am I wrong? If so a patch repair should be easy. In this pick of the one rod holder hole you can see the 3 layers.
  7. Ok. I'm blaming Adam n Eve, nothing goes easy!!! Starboard side I took the side cushion off to get better access for the washers and nuts after I thru bolt the bracket. Good news, I had room. Bad news, I had to remove the 2 rod holders to get to the cushion bolts. The one holder I could have just picked up. The gunnel wood is shot around the holders on that side. It looks like it is top plate, then wood then the bottom fibreglass of the gunnel. If I remove the top plate can I just cut out the wood in the area of the rod holders and replace the top plate? What wood do I use? I won't n
  8. Last week
  9. Don't be shy about asking questions, not matter how silly you may think it is. Heck, it could end up saving you some un-necessary work. Looking forward to seeing your progress!
  10. thank you for answering my silly questions , its now crystal clear .i promise no more draining questions . for a grease monkey its smooth sailing going forward . i will start a new build thread to post updates .
  11. 1st option and a little silicone cauk sounds easier to me. Thanks for the tips and all you do on this site!! I found if I set them just behind the cleat slots there is a nice flat spot to thru bolt. With 4 ft booms they will stick plenty far out the back or turned out the sides will give a nice spread.. Starboard side I think I will need to remove the side cushion to be able to get washers and nuts on the bolts. It's tight! When I finally get it done I'll post a pick or two. I gotta keep moving, spring shad will be running in a few weeks up the mighty delaware.
  12. I hate silicone! Two ways to do this. Get some 2 part epoxy from Lowes or HD (the stuff that sets in 5 minutes) mix it up and paint the bare wood in the holes. You may need 2 coats to get a good seal. Second method is a little more involved. Overdrill the holes. Cover bottom of holes with tape, then fill holes with a thickened epoxy mixture (cabosil is perfect for this - mix to peanut butter consistency). Fill holes and allow to set up overnight. Next day drill holes to proper size in the center of the epoxy plug. When sized properly, there should be about a 1/8 to 3/16" ring
  13. If the fuel tank is in good shape, blast the heck out of it with a pressure washer then coat with coal tar epoxy. That will keep water off the tank and stop any corrosion. Everything you need to know about improving the drainage issue where you see standing water under that black inspection port: The fishbox thru hull fitting causes the leaks and most of the time it is where the sealant around the fitting has dried out and cracked. Dig out the old sealant on both the inside and outside of the hull, then re-seal. Worse case, you may have to remove the thru hull fitting in order to
  14. What suggestion would you have to seal those holes? Silicon? Or would it be better to paint the holes with fibreglass resin?
  15. so i have done some working & cleaning today , if everything just was easy as it seems in youtube videos , raised the front the boat ,plugged the front storage and compressed air in the coffin box hole a tiny amount of water came out ,the boat seems in solid shape ,who ever done the splash well done a good job .other than the fish box hatch which is driving me crazy .the foam inside the black hatch (the 6th picture in my first post) is wet and it seems the water has no where to go . i am sure the whole thing was done in the US before the boat was shipped to here. with comp
  16. Name: Ed Location: Hertford NC Year: 1993 Model: 2440 Power: 2012 Suzuki 200 Hspr 4 strokes Picture of hull id number: Picture of boat capacity plate: Pictures of boat:
  17. i had a family member who used his locker key to open and use my car , i didn't mind it , but it was still annoying. i still have a new fuel level sensor for the bug , the vdo 73-10 so today its going in the tank.so robalo will have some bug parts . i removed the floorboards ,number 5 which all the rigging go through . and the fuel tank .(am a new boater so my excuse the lack of my proper terminology ). they are getting a fresh gel coat this weekend so it easier for me to spray the rest of the deck. fuel tank is new am thinking to use one of those rubber floor mat with hole
  18. That is a decent fuel burn rate for that motor. When I had a carbed 150 Johnson, I figured it was about 1.2 mpg. Granted, that little 150 worked it's butt off pushing the boat, though!
  19. My 2160 has its original Merc 200 carbed 2 stroke. I continually get an average of 1.5 mpg with normal use. That's a mix of speeds over the course of a few weeks. I reset the trip on my gps and can guess how much gas it will take to fill within a few gallons, has been consistent for years.
  20. Name: Scott Location:Chester New Hampshire Year: 197??? 70 ? Model: R180 Power: 1988 Mercury 60HP Picture of hull id number: never had one ? Picture of boat capacity plate: never had one ? Pictures of boat:
  21. How do you use a stethoscope to find water in the hull?? I am looking at a 1987 1800 cc, and think there is water in the hull. more on starboard side. hull behind transom is dry had some condensation on outside of hull as the weather warmed up. I am thinking water in hull was ice cold and produced condensaton, Like a nice cold bottle of beer. deck seems pretty solid , seller says he thought the boat felt heavy in a chop. and listed a bit to starboard, I would appreciate any input I can get.
  22. They are nothing more than a cover to catch the abuse of fishing and stepping on the boat. Underneath is fiberglass the same thickness as the glass behind the coaming pads. There is a strip of wood glassed to the underside of the gunnel; that is why it feels uneven. Just be sure to seal up any holes so water does not soak into that wood core.
  23. Is the spreader light switch on dash panel, too? Are you seeing the 12.9 when you ground to the same bus bar or different ground location? Check the condition of the primary ground wire going to the bus. Sometimes the wire will gradually corrode at the crimped connection and cause a high resistance.
  24. 1996- 2440 twin 225s got a ground short on dash panel.. pulling voltage from 12.9 on spreader lights to 6 on panel lights... no fwd bilge ... at all
  25. Name: Sammy Joe Location: Oviedo & Grant Farm Island Florida Year: DOTTIE Q Original 1969 R190 (in Restoration) Sea Q 1976 R190 Model: Power: (Year Manufacturer horsepower) Picture of hull id number: Picture of boat capacity plate: Pictures of boat: Pictures to come soon
  26. I was hoping the gunnel board removal would give me access. But now that I slept on it they are probably more cosmetic and there is still fiberglass underneath. Port side I have some access and could probably work washers to the bolts, starboard side... it is tight, ugg. I am not sure a backer plate could work. What I can feel of the underside is uneven.
  27. Earlier
  28. No problem on the mess! I get the fact you guys are stuck inside somewhat during the winter. Are you able to access the underside of the gunwale at all? The previous owner of my boat had a Penn downrigger mounted in about the same location and he was able to get some heavy stainless fender washers with one side cut down over the 4 bolts, then used lock nuts on them. If you could fabricate a 1/4" aluminum backer plate for under there, that would be better. Are you considering removing the cover boards and not replacing them once the downrigger base is in place?
  29. That registry is doing great...thanks for pushing this idea through!
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