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  2. New owner up in Rhode Island. Was looking for a basic fishing boat and this old girl feel in my lap. So after some research, my boat is one of the 1971 AMF Slickcraft center consoles. There's obviously issues with the foam core getting wet in these older boats. Just short of pulling up the deck, how does one inspect the core? Can I cut inspection ports into the deck? The under deck duel tank has also been abandoned, but the deck is still in one piece and I'd hate to cut it if it can be avoided. When I pull the garboard plug, there's a drip every couple seconds. The "kill well" and engine well drain seem to be in good condition. There's no big deformities/deflections when on the trailer, but some small "welts" on the bottom of the boat. Nothing seems soft. The boat will be going on a mooring, all the other question is: can a bike pump be installed anywhere? Thanks for the input.
  3. Today
  4. Wyndy

    boarding ladder

    Using Google, the standard ladder looks like Garelick GAR-19676. I would need a GAR-19677. Have to get down to the dock and measure the size of the current ladder. Thanks
  5. Hey 2-n-TOW,

    You seem to have a lot of knowledge and maybe your wisdom can help me with my water issue I bought a 1997 2540 Robalo in the fall of last year. The boat has been converted to a leisure boat with some seating in the stern.   I have a water issue when I am anchored and have a lot of weight near the stern of the boat.  When the water level gets close to the rub rail on the integrated platform I seem to take on a lot of water.  This boat came with 4 scupper valves, 2 that go somewhere up front and two that come from the mid section of the walk around and they all meet coming out the bottom of the swim platform.  The boat was designed for fishing however has since been converted to a leisure for my use as I spend a lot of time anchored hosting a couple people with the weight near the back.  As I am using the boat inland on the St Lawrence River I wont be taking on wave water too often if at all , just rain water.  I'd like to fill the scupper holes in the bottom of the platform in and direct the lines from those scuppers to my main automatic bilge.  If I were to do that I  would add a small automatic bilge within the integrated swim platform that takes water to my main automatic bilge.  The water appears to be coming in from these scupper valves and up the lines and having the reverse effect of what they were designed for.  Do you think I am on the right track or could water be entering the boat behind the rub rail somewhere? Any help would be greatly appreciated as I truly love this boat.  Thanks for your time and i look forward to hearing from you.

     

    Dan

  6. Welcome and thanks for taking. Stroll down our cyber docks. So find you. Boat and back on in a slip.
  7. Hi new to the blog, have a 236 for project hope to talk to all of you about it.
  8. Hey Dan? I think we may have talked about this before, but I’m considering installing trim tabs over the winter. I’m also talking to boat guy about strengthening the transom. But trim tabs for a moment first. Here is a pic of my stern. I have 2 transducers, operating 2 separate Lowrance units. Where would I install the trim tabs? And I guess I’d have to reposition the transducers? what effect will the tabs have on the transducers being able to read bottom depth from the tabs being down?
  9. Can you make one these work with the existing platform: https://www.wholesalemarine.com/boating-marine/boat-pwc-accesories/boat-ladders/platform-ladders.html Hopefully, Robalo did not have a special size made for their boats.
  10. I had that telecoms no feedback steering, then it broke in me and I had to get towed in. Then I just hit the bullet and installed a sea star hydraulic system, had it for one year on the Ficht and wished I had it installed years ago. Best thing? I was able to move it right over to my new Etec. all great advice. Are those engines direct injection? Are they Johnson Fichts? Or carbed? See I told you I know nothing of engines.
  11. Hi Subfreq23 and welcome to the forum! Nice looking older boat. I have said this before, but this year we have had a lot of new members with boats from the '70s. Just goes to show these things are built to last. 1972 R190 bare hull weighed 1700 lbs. Here is the link to the specs: Go ahead and start a separate thread for your new boat...makes it easier for us to keep track of different boats when looking back at prior responses. Would also like to see more pictures of the inside and the console.
  12. Hey guys, I recently got a 73 Rebalo 190 Wondering if anyone knows the weight of the hull? Seems heavy, I am going to update the trailer which is why I need to know She needs some new paint this winter but I love this boat!
  13. Yesterday
  14. I have a 2018 R207. Does anyone know who is the manufacturer of the boarding ladder. I am looking for one with 4 rungs. Thanks
  15. When the boat is on the trailer, with the bow raised as high as possible, does it constantly have water draining out of the garboard drain? What size motor is that? Where are your batteries; in the transom or under the console?
  16. Some questions to ask: 1. What was the reason for a rebuild on one motor? 2. Compression sounds good, but bring a buddy and check behind them. If you know a marine mechanic, see if he would give each motor a quick inspection for a couple of Benjamins. Rather be safe than sorry. 3. How many hours on the motors? 4. If you do a sea trial, those motors better be able to run 5600-6000 rpms at wide open throttle. Anything under that is putting an unnecessary load on them and they will build up carbon in the cylinders. Ask if they are using semi synthetic or synthetic 2 stroke oil. 5. Ask about the wiring harness being replaced...what was the reason? Look at that motor's harness to be sure it is not a patchwork with electrical tape for backyard connections. 6. Look at the top of the fuel tank through the inspection hatch over the fuel sender. Any standing water? Does the top of the tank look ok or is there signs of surface corrosion? Ask if the tank is original or has been replaced. 7. Go over that steering system thoroughly. It appears to be a Teleflex No-Feedback system and not hydraulic. See how difficult it is to steer at speed. Most boats now have hydraulic steering.
  17. Have you considered putting a slight radius on the top to help it shed water? Would not be too difficult to do..cut a few plywood forms to lay under it. If you do this, fiberglass the bottom of the top first while it is laying flat with 1 layer of 1708 and mat. Once it cures, you can set this on the forms, fiberglass side down, then run some wood screws through the coosa along the edges to pull it to shape. I would go with stainless screws. Once screwed down, pack some wax or clay into the screw hole flush with the top of the coosa, then do your 2 layers of 1708. Once set up, drill a hole over the screw hole, pick the wax out and remove screw. Don't be too fast to fill in the hole, though. You can now re-use that same hole to pull the top down onto the pilothouse sides for a temporary hold. Tab the inside together, remove screws again, then use a router to cut a rounded edge. Now just glass over the side and roll onto the top, then fun time grinding/sanding to fair it all in!
  18. Does the boat have a livewell? If so, check those fittings for leaks.
  19. Nice boat. I’d run those engines till they die, then repower with a Single 300 Suzuki or Twin 150s if you still wanted twins. Not sure your fishing destination. If it primarily offshore, maybe stay with twins. But inshore and the bays? 1 engine. And a Boat US or Sea tow membership.
  20. Last week
  21. Thanks for the reply, I actually installed new ping pong ball scuppers, new hoses that are attached to the floor scuppers and sealed everything with 5200, have the same problem no change. I then installed back flow preventer valves on those hoses and no change. I installed plumbing pipe plugs which does work but it it rains I will have to drain deck of boat now since the floor scuppers are plugged now. The boat seems like it sits low on the stern, swim platform about an inch under water, bilge is a little wet but not to bad. Could hull be wet? I’m probably going to install ball valve on hoses? But that’s only a band aid fix, the rear scuppers are so low under water kinda a shitty design?
  22. Hardtop with curve put in. Had to reinforce all the coosa from the inside. I was worried that it wasnt keeping square with the design I wanted. Going to fiberglass the outside first and then cut out the supports. Then fiberglass the inside. Not a successful weekend for the project but at least I'm just about ready for the fiberglass started. Got my table built. Next to put fibetglass on a bar to roll it.
  23. Thank you for that info! I've screen shot everything in that thread and I'll be going over all that when I go to see it tommorow. I've attached a picture of the description in the listing. I'm not sure of the model Johnson, thought I know they are 98 2-strokes. Here's a question, my biggest concern from what I've read around here is the transom. Alot of 2520s I've seen are single motor and the transom is cut down in the center to accommodate a single. This transom is straight across to accommodate twins. Do you know if this boat came like that from factory or do you think the transom was redone and fitted with twins? I guess what I'm trying to ask is if the 2520 ever came with twins from factory. Thanks again for the help!
  24. Welcome to the site and nice looking boat! What year and model (2 stroke, 4 stroke, or injected...not sure as there was different Johnsons available in the late 90's). Here is a good link on some things to look for. Let us know if you have any questions and we will do our best to help out.
  25. For whatever reason,2 strokers almost always have lower compression on the bottom cylinders when compared to the rest of the motor. I would not worry about that at all. I am with Richard on this one...you can do way better than $2k. Changing it out yourself is not that difficult, if you want to tackle it. I can talk you through the process as it should be fairly close to how I drop my lower unit on my 2003 Evinrude.
  26. If you repower with a brand new engine I assume you'll keep it forever. I'd shop around for etec stuff. It's going pretty cheap since they're last announcement. I'd think you could get a lower unit for 1k on hulltruth right now.
  27. Hello! First time poster, so much information here. Makes me smile to see such a following for a brand of boat. I've been looking for a boat for a while and I've come across this one. They want 12k for it, maybe negotiable. I've done some research on the hull. Seems the consensus is it's mostly solid with problematic areas like the transom. The boat has definitely had work done to it, newish fuel tank among other things. I'm looking advice, info, input, experiences, anything and everything you guys have on this boat. Thank you all in advance!
  28. I should have stuck with my first guess. It was my lower unit. Went to put on a different prop yesterday assuming the motor would be going away and didn't want to leave my stainless prop on there. When looking at the lower unit there is a small hole and dimple on the starboard side just above the water pick up. I still ran a compression check just to make sure that it wasn't the powerhead and see if it is worth keeping. Just over 800 hours on the motor. Compression was 130-133 on 5 cylinders and the lower starboard cylinder was 121psi. Still within 10% so think I will be looking around for a lower unit on Monday... Guess that is good news? Still 2-5K depending on new or reconditioned lower unit. Fix her up, fish her for the rest of the season and then clean her up for sale next spring?
  29. The beauty of fiberglass! It is so easy to fix a screw up once you get past that initial reluctance of "full steam ahead!"
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